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Old 05-30-2005, 11:41 AM   #1
TooSlow
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Join Date: Sep 2002
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2002 WRX
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Default Snapped caliper bolt, what are my options?

I have a 95 Impreza outback sport, that I'm changing the front pads on. The top bolt on the driver's side was seized really good and however slow I went on it, the bolt still snapped. It's pretty much snapped off level with the hole. I have another car to drive so that's not an issue, but I thought I'd come here to get an opinion on where I should go from here. Some questions:

1. Is the hole inside the caliper itself threaded, or just the bracket? If it's just the bracket, is it possible to pull the caliper off thus giving me access to the rest of the bolt sticking out of just the bracket?
2. If that is not possible, and I can't get the bolt out, will I need to buy new caliper and hub assemblies?

The third question is possibly upgrading the brakes. To clarify, I'm trying to research my upgrades carefully so that I can eventually switch as many parts as possible into a WRX.

3. What inexpensive options (less than $1000) do I have to upgrade my brakes that I can eventually use to upgrade a WRX (if any)? I have rear drums so I'd be doing a rear conversion as well. My intended usage is mostly street use and two or three road course events a year.

4. I'm aware of the Subaru 2-pots and the legacy turbo or H6 rears which is the way I'd go if I didn't plan to upgrade to a WRX eventually. I just wonder if this is considered an upgrade for the WRX as well or if I should be looking at bigger/better.

5. Should I just replace the caliper/bracket with stock parts and save up for later?

Thanks for the help!

-Ray
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Old 05-30-2005, 01:31 PM   #2
TarmacRally
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The Strdr taketh
and the Strdr giveth away

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Your done my friend. Your going to have to buy a new car.
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Old 05-30-2005, 10:31 PM   #3
TooSlow
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You're a funny guy... seriously, anyone have advice/opinions on upgrading the brakes other than the 4-pot fronts and 2 pot or H6 rears? Or maybe WRX brakes are plenty good enough for the type of driving I'd be doing as long as I upgraded pads?
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Old 05-31-2005, 07:16 AM   #4
Safir
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good pads in stock WRX brakes would be good for a few events a year.

as for fixing your current problem, if it was the bolt that holds the caliper onto the brakcet it just threads into the slide pin, they are about $5 from subaruparts.com, should be about the same price from your dealer. you should be able to obtain the parts to fix it for less than $10 at the dealer. I think there were some directions on scoobymods.com on how to replace those a few years back, worth looking for again.

If it was the bolt that holds the bracket to the hub you could drill and re-tap the brakcet, or a new one of those is about $50 at subaruparts.com, should be similar at your dealer.

can you get the bracket/caliper off the car and take a picture of your problem?
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Old 05-31-2005, 03:30 PM   #5
TooSlow
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Yeah it's the top bolt that holds the caliper to the hub assembly, and it's broken off inside the caliper, maybe a 1/2 inch or less inside the hole. How hard would that be to drill it out? That's a pretty long bolt isn't it? Seems like it would be difficult. My friend suggested using an extractor but seeing that the bolt is seized in there really good, I can't imagine any extractor strong enough to pull it out. I left a message with subaruparts.com to see how much a hub/bearing assembly would cost in case I have to swap that out.

When you say re-tap the bracket, you technically mean to re-thread it, correct? Sorry I'm really good at understanding how everything goes together, it's when bolts snap or won't budge that I struggle with simply because I don't have the experience under my belt.
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Old 05-31-2005, 05:44 PM   #6
2Stroke
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An "extractor" AKA "easy-out" doesn't rely on brute strength alone to get the bolt out. To use an easy-out, you first drill a hole down the center of the frozen bolt. This weakens the bolt, and gives it space to deform into when the easy-out is twisted into the hole. The hardest part is drilling the hole deep enough and straight enough for the easy out to get started.

After extraction, you'll need to run a tap thru the hole to clean up the corrosion and remaining pieces of the bolt from the threads.

If you know a experienced machinist, hire or bribe him to help you. You'll need to buy one drill, one tap, and one easy-out to do the job. The machinist might need to measure the bolt hole to determine which size of each tool is required. HTH.
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Old 06-14-2005, 02:23 PM   #7
TooSlow
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A bit of a late reply, but I thought I'd post my results in hopes of helping others. I tried extractors but had no luck, once they dug in they literally would not budge the bolt whatsoever. So I ended up using gradually larger drill bits to drill it out all the way to the threads inside the bracket so that all that was left of the bolt was the threads themselves. I then ran a tap through to clean it out and used a new bolt. Frustrating work (took the greater part of a day) but it's done.

The bolt that broke was the top one that mounted the bracket to the hub. It wasn't necessary for pad replacement, but it was if I was replacing a rotor. Since it was the top bolt, I was able to unbolt the lower one, unbolt the caliper from the bracket, and then slide the bracket and rotor off together as one piece. That enabled me to set the rotor aside and put the bracket in a vise for my drill/tap work.
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