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Old 09-29-2012, 05:36 PM   #451
Pandasaurus_rex
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I found that an easy way to remove the stock screws was to get a decent sized flat head screwdriver like Unabomber said and also use a small crescent adjustable wrench. Use the wrench to grab the flat part of the screwdriver and help you twist the screw out. I found that vise-grips were too bulky to fit around the left hand screw head.
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:57 PM   #452
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I got a P1507 followed by a P0507 after my 02 WRX was sitting for a full month of not driving it becase it was in the body shop being repaired. On the way home from the body shop I got a check engine light. My car would lurch forward while stopped if the brake wasn't applied with force. The idle was very rough and the exhaust has a nasty wobbling noise as if the car was only running on two cylinders. Back to the body shop thinking that they screwed something up while putting the car back together following the rear end collision that led to front end damage when my I was pushed into the car in front of me. That night we found this thread and a few other similar threads. The next day we picked up the car feeling confident that we knew what the issue was. After driving a hour to a dealership that had the gasket in stock my husband removed the IACV for cleaning. If took two attempts to clean the valve with WD-40, rubbing alcohol, Q-Tips and compressed air. Simply cleaning it did not work the first time around. We found that is was necessary to move the valve then cleaning it. We also found that the WD-40 needed some time to loosen everything up. We cleared the CEL then let the car sit. After sitting overnight the car fired up with no problems, no rough idle, and no CEL.

FWIW - the car is has a VF39, STi TMIC, STi blues, SPT intake, other supporting mods and engine management.

Good thread - Thanks
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:17 AM   #453
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2000 Impreza obs with 77k miles. Rpm spike during startup then mild stuttering (no CEL). I used these reccomendations:
Impact driver with flat head bit- loosened up easily (replaced with stainless cap screws)
Gasoline clean- Mine was pretty gunked with carbon and it ended up as clean as the picture on the original post with some q tip love. I let mine sit while I changed my front brake pads.
New Gasket- My gasket was still in pretty damn good condition but I always replace rubber gaskets.
I did multiple starts and cool downs then took it out to test my brakes. No smoke. Drove it 40 mins to a friends house with no issue.

The real test will be after it sits all night so I can really cold start it.

UPDATE: Cold started this morning with dramatic improvement! I had no rpm spike, no sputtering and it seemed to idle smoother in general. It might just be me, but I feel like it has been running better in general after the cleaning.

Last edited by luckysoob; 11-19-2012 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:05 PM   #454
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I have a bad or dirty Idle Air Control Valve on a 2002 naturally aspirated 2.5 EJ251. I'm planning on removing it or having it removed by someone better at engine work than me. I'm definitely on the beginner level of working with auto-shop and tools but I do have access to them. The IACV solenoid uninstall and install process looks more and more do-able the more hours I read about it, so I may give it a try under supervision of the shop that offered me to use their tools.


This thread is just for the 2.0's right? I'm looking for IACV write-ups for the 2.5. Redirect me and you will have my thanks if you found one.

The information about cleaning with gasoline and other solvents and experiences by many different people made this a useful write up and was a useful read anyhow.
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:35 PM   #455
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same thing bud.. Its easier than changing an air filter. lol.
1- Buy a new gasket before getting started, the old one can not be reused.
2- Unscrew the two screws holding the cover of the IAC solenoid on.
3- Pour a bit of seafoam or something comparable.. (seafoams the best)
4- after letting it soak for a minute or two, clean with Qtips, dry out with shop towels or more q-tips (your preferance).
5- The is a small valve that spins open and close, this is what gets clogged/stuck, when it moves easily, youre done.
6- pop the new gasket in and tighten the cover back on.
7- start the car and crack open a beer because youre done.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:29 PM   #456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99imprezd View Post
same thing bud.. Its easier than changing an air filter. lol.
1- Buy a new gasket before getting started, the old one can not be reused.
2- Unscrew the two screws holding the cover of the IAC solenoid on.
3- Pour a bit of seafoam or something comparable.. (seafoams the best)
4- after letting it soak for a minute or two, clean with Qtips, dry out with shop towels or more q-tips (your preferance).
5- The is a small valve that spins open and close, this is what gets clogged/stuck, when it moves easily, youre done.
6- pop the new gasket in and tighten the cover back on.
7- start the car and crack open a beer because youre done.
That was a pretty decent step-by step. Thanks for that. And I will definitely br toasting if this is a success! I'd like to break down your pointers for more information. I appreciated the contribution but I'm going to pick your brain a little more. If you don't wish to respond in greater detail don't feel obligated to do so. Also, if others would like to contribute, go ahead. If there is a different place I should be asking about this please inform me of your thoughts.

1. I have worked for Toyota in an assembly plant as a quality control inspector and in shipping as well as in other assembly plants in the past. This experience definitely drilled into my head the importance of a healthy gasket. It's a great investment in value for money to increase longevity. Wow. Now I'm ranting.

My question: what is the part number for the rubber IACV gasket for the 2.5 EJ251?

2. First I need to find it. I know it's right by the throttle body there. Ill probably figure this out on my own with a couple more hours of searching.

3. I've heard wonders about Seafoam from my VWVortex days, but have never seen it or used it in my life. I saw a post that showed that soaking the IACV in gasoline will clean it to the point that it is so shiny that it looks new.

a. Do you have any advice towards the upsides or downfalls to use either cleaning method?

b. Are there any components inside the actual IACV itself which need to be pulled apart or removed to more thoroughly clean it?

I will post questions to the other steps in a moment in a separate post.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:43 PM   #457
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4. Will do

5. I believe that I know what flap you are referring to.
Have you read/heard about this flap being prone to breaking, bending, or becoming broken by attempts to clean the Idle Air Control? I am concerned about its durability and that I might break it trying to clean it, but it sounds like its not too big of a deal. It will be a big deal if that little flap DOES break though.

6. Isn't there a coolant line(s) that hook up to the IACV too? I could've sworn there were multiple lines that need to be detached to service the part. Is it really as simple as unscrewing 2 screws, dropping a piece down, servicing, and only screwing in 2 screws?

7. I'll let you everyone know how it works out.
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:08 PM   #458
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I joined a 9-2x forum and put some more tips for cleaning the IACV. It's very easy to do and took me about 20 minutes.

http://saab92x.com/viewtopic.php?id=41814
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:26 PM   #459
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Seafoam, its a frkn miracle worker on internal combustion engines. In the gas, in the oil, in the vacuum lines. You can buy it at any walmart or autoparts store. One can will last you forever. Believe me, Ive used it on upwards of 30 or 40 vehicles with nothing but success.

- Second pic on Frankh21's (post above this one) link.
- Ive never used gasoline to clean anything, its prob the most flammable liquid you can find, and eats the **** out of everything and stinks. Pretty sure my grandparents used it back in the ice age, lol. if you really wanna start dousing stuff in it, go for it it I guess, but seafoam, way better. It's 2013, technolgy has come along way, get yourself some seafoam.
- If you want to get crazy, you can pull the sensor portion off the IACV but it is normally (9 times out of 10) not necassary. I never had to completely take one apart..
- If you can break the flap.. you are the incredible hulk.. Ive never seen one break or heard of one breaking. Yeah there is a small coolant hose. maybe a drip might come out, although perform this cleaning when the car has not been run and coolant is cold otherwise you could lose an eye!
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Old 04-10-2013, 02:52 PM   #460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankh21 View Post
I joined a 9-2x forum and put some more tips for cleaning the IACV. It's very easy to do and took me about 20 minutes.

http://saab92x.com/viewtopic.php?id=41814
Thanks for the response, but I've tried that link on two different devices and it kind of 'dead ends' on the site. I'll click the link, and the saab92x site tells me I have to register of login to see the link. OK, I try clicking 'Register' and the page just refreshes itself. In fact, everything I clicked on that link just redirected me to a page telling me I need to register or log in.

Its appreciated. If you are willing to PM me your username/password for that site so I can just open up the thread really quick that would probably work, but the site won't let me register. If someone else has a different experience with that hyperlink let me/us know...
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:07 PM   #461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99imprezd View Post
Seafoam, its a frkn miracle worker on internal combustion engines. In the gas, in the oil, in the vacuum lines. You can buy it at any walmart or autoparts store. One can will last you forever. Believe me, Ive used it on upwards of 30 or 40 vehicles with nothing but success.

- Second pic on Frankh21's (post above this one) link.
- Ive never used gasoline to clean anything, its prob the most flammable liquid you can find, and eats the **** out of everything and stinks. Pretty sure my grandparents used it back in the ice age, lol. if you really wanna start dousing stuff in it, go for it it I guess, but seafoam, way better. It's 2013, technolgy has come along way, get yourself some seafoam.
- If you want to get crazy, you can pull the sensor portion off the IACV but it is normally (9 times out of 10) not necassary. I never had to completely take one apart..
- If you can break the flap.. you are the incredible hulk.. Ive never seen one break or heard of one breaking. Yeah there is a small coolant hose. maybe a drip might come out, although perform this cleaning when the car has not been run and coolant is cold otherwise you could lose an eye!
Thanks!

More problems though...

I need to know the part number for the IAVC GASKET. (not sure if this info is in your link, I wouldn't know because I can't open it.)
I couldn't get the link to open (see previous post for explanation).

Looks like my next step is to research the seafoam product.
My goal is to do a small write up loaded with pictures of before/after cleaning and service, EDIT:specifically for the 2.5 EJ251.

Last edited by ENCHILADAS; 04-10-2013 at 03:09 PM. Reason: comprehension
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:17 PM   #462
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••••••

Last edited by ENCHILADAS; 04-10-2013 at 04:31 PM. Reason: •••••••
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:40 PM   #463
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The part number is 22659AA120 at least for the 2.0L, it was in the first post in this thread. NO, I will not give you my user name and password but it costs you nothing to join that forum. Not to be mean but I think you need to do a little research on your own because we can't hand everything to you. Even though I just did

For parts lookup use this: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g11/

Last edited by Frankh21; 04-10-2013 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 04-10-2013, 04:03 PM   #464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankh21 View Post
The part number is 22659AA120 at least for the 2.0L, it was in the first post in this thread. NO, I will not give you my user name and password but it costs you nothing to join that forum. Not to be mean but I think you need to do a little research on your own because we can't hand everything to you. Even though I just did

For parts lookup use this: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g11/

I know about the 2.0L info I've read the thread. The reason for posting was for info about the 2.5L gasket number.

Tried the forum it doesn't work on my or my girlfriends computer. It just loads the site and doesn't let me register a username. See earlier posts. It's not a big deal. I'll figure it out
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:21 PM   #465
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Originally Posted by Frankh21 View Post
This link takes one directly to the European spec Subarus, but with a little common sense one can find there way into the North American spec portion of the website.

I called the local dealership; they gave me the same part number for the IACV as the first post on this thread. I didn't ask "are they the same?" because I didn't notice that he had told me the same part number as the first post in this thread until after I hung up the phone.
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Old 05-31-2013, 11:31 AM   #466
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I would like to thank everyone who contributed to this great thread. It helped me wonders! My 2002 Subaru WRX threw this P1507 code a couple weeks ago. Symptoms included: bad cold start idle and horrible driving until the car warmed up. Erratic idle and my car would bog/lurch/jump during cold start acceleration. Sometimes I would have to wait 3-4 minutes until the car warmed up before the symptoms went away.

I found this thread, gave it a good read and went to the nearest Subaru dealership and bought myself a new IACV gasket for $7. Went to the gas station and filled up a water bottle with petrol for $0.20. Carb cleaner was $6 for a can. All in all was a $13.20 job.

Cleaning IACV
It was definitely hard to get the IACV screws off without mangling them as they are definitely soft. Large flat head and medium sized vice grips (didn't have small vice grips with me at the time) worked fine.

Let's just say 257k (kilometers = 160k miles) of driving built up a LOT of gunk/carbon. I took the motor off the valve housing to get a better more thorough clean. I figured I had it off so might as well go the whole 9 yards. I tested the valve by turning the magnet arm and yup - it was definitely sticking hard! Would only get a quarter of a turn, if that, before getting stuck. I dropped the valve housing in a ziplock bag of gasoline and let it soak for about 2 hours. The gas was black after I took it out. It didn't get everything off but it sure loosened up all the gunk. I then took carb cleaner and sprayed the shlt out of it, deep in all the crevices and used about a dozen q-tips to make it squeaky clean. Looked brand new after.

After the clean up, I had some difficulty re-installing the motor onto the housing. I put it on the wrong way and threw it back on my car. Started it and my idle was way worse than before, it would rev to 2200pm and drop down to 1600rpm and go back up and drop back down. It was terrible lol. I read this post

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...7&postcount=14,

took it off and re-assembled it making sure that the black tip on the magnet was in between the two "stops". BOOM - all done, rock solid idle at 600rpm (warm) and no more hesitation/bucking/lurching.

The 5 star screws that attach the motor to the valve housing were definitely hard to get off (without the proper tool). I should've used a hack saw to cut a slit in them as suggested in this thread but didn't have a hack saw at the time either so I just used the vice grips. They're chewed up a bit but I figure I won't have to be taking this off any time soon again lol.

Again, I want to thank the wonderful community that NASIOC is. It's threads like this that makes me proud to be a Subaru owner and contributor

Last edited by KitchenerWRX; 05-31-2013 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 06-17-2013, 02:35 PM   #467
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Thanks for the writeup! Totally solved my 2003's idle problems.

My tips: Remove IACV, hose out the valve openings liberally with carb cleaner. Mine was black and super cruddy, and I was able to remove the VAST majority of it by simply spraying it out, and scrubbing with a Qtip.

Be sure to mark/score the assembly before removing the motor. I also slotted the torx screws that attach the motor to the valve with my Dremel, now a screwdriver is all that's needed to remove them.

There was a heavy deposit on the rotating portion of the valve that I suspect cannot be completely cleaned without disassembling. Once the motor is off, you can rotate the valve past the obstructing part of the valve and scrub this completely clean with no problem. Once cleaned, I was able to get the valve to spin rapidly by simply shaking it side to side. Amazing.

A half hour's work for a perfect idle? Sign me up.
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Old 06-21-2013, 01:58 AM   #468
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Just did this today. What I used was a can of CRC Brakleen and some q-tips. Idle is much more stable and start ups are easier. It was definitely worth the 20 mins and 2 beers of work lol.
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:29 AM   #469
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Can anyone tell me if the iacv gasket is the same for every year? I have a 07 hawkeye and the subaru people told me it changed befor my year..
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:30 PM   #470
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I just fixed my bad idle with a can of maf cleaner from autozone for 8 dollars. Best advice think small it's always the little things.
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Old 08-07-2013, 07:31 PM   #471
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Oh ya I have a sti the 2.5 so u should be fine
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Old 08-10-2013, 11:23 AM   #472
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thank you so much for creating the thread! i was having idle issues where it was surging from like 1000 rpm to 2000 rpm everytime i'd pull up to a stop sign. I cleaned the iacv and put a new gasket on it and when i put it back together the car idled awesome! thank you again!
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:52 PM   #473
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And again, NASIOC comes through. Thanks OP and everyone that contributed. My 2003 WRX idled poorly and threw the P1507 code. I ordered a new IACV gasket for $7 from my local dealer, and bought some of the new Seafoam sprayable cleaner from my Advance Auto Parts store. When I removed my IACV, it was locked up. My car had been sitting for a number of weeks; maybe this contributed to the problem. The IACV was really caked with crap. Initially I tried to clean it with MAF cleaner; that didn't yield good results. The Seafoam spray cleaner worked like a charm. About 15 minutes worth of cleaning was all it took to get it shiny and spinning like it was almost new. Q-tips and Seafoam did the trick; spray, let it sit for a few moments, swab with q-tips, repeat. After reinstalling the IACV, resetting the ECU with the Cobb AP, everything was great. Took it for a gentle drive, and we are back to normal. Thanks everyone (again) for sharing experiences here.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:05 PM   #474
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Default 96 EJ20G IACV Gasket Part Number?

Hey guys, great thread; really in-depth. I have a JDM 96 STI 555 with the EJ20G engine; having the same cold-start issue. My IACV is a little different from in this thread, it's one of the beige valves that sits off to the right on the intake manifold. (The link I posted shows identical pics to my car). Only issue I'm having is finding a replacement gasket for the valve.

Does anyone have a part # for the gasket or know where I can get one? Thanks guys

http://www.subyclub.com/topic/5-cleaning-the-iacv/
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Old 10-23-2013, 09:08 PM   #475
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*UPDATE* I think I found the part number. Apparently it's cross-compatible with the legacy, RS, etc. For those seeking the same answers in future, the part # for the Beige IACV gasket is 22659AA060.



http://www.buysubarupartsnow.com/oem...ket/22659aa060

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f128/t885...ngability.html
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