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Old 01-19-2007, 01:34 AM   #76
totalburnout
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Originally Posted by scooterforever View Post
Hmm, white smoke feels like antifreeze to me. Did you seat the gasket by driving under vacuum (no boost at all) for 10 miles? The gasket could have gotten borked. There's also a chance the 'smoke' is condensation (normal) given the cold.
I didn't even drive the car, I left it to warm up at normal operating temperature.

My rpms are borked because of the TGVs, the car starts at around 2000rpms and drops to 1500rpms, then 1000rpms then around 800rpms where it should be after awhile.

I guess I'm going to try to open it up tomorrow and see if the gasket lifted or something. Hopefully it won't be a problem, but I was worried about the antifreeze.

Is there anything I should look for that would be a tell tale sign of anti-freeze? I was going to check the air intake filter for antifreeze but I think the throttle body is already further down the intake system that it would affect the filter. I guess I'll see if there's any antifreeze that leaked out into the throttle body.

Another note, when the sensor open overnight to dry antifreeze came into one side of the sensor - was this my problem or did everyone experience antifreeze? No one really mentioned it, but I figured most didn't let their cars sit overnight. The cavity was still wet with rubbing alcohol and I didn't want to seat the gasket until it was dry so I left it overnight.

I'll try to reseat the gasket tomorrow, I just want to make sure the engine won't be fubar'd.
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Old 02-05-2007, 01:03 PM   #77
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I didn't even drive the car, I left it to warm up at normal operating temperature.

My rpms are borked because of the TGVs, the car starts at around 2000rpms and drops to 1500rpms, then 1000rpms then around 800rpms where it should be after awhile.

I guess I'm going to try to open it up tomorrow and see if the gasket lifted or something. Hopefully it won't be a problem, but I was worried about the antifreeze.

Is there anything I should look for that would be a tell tale sign of anti-freeze? I was going to check the air intake filter for antifreeze but I think the throttle body is already further down the intake system that it would affect the filter. I guess I'll see if there's any antifreeze that leaked out into the throttle body.

Another note, when the sensor open overnight to dry antifreeze came into one side of the sensor - was this my problem or did everyone experience antifreeze? No one really mentioned it, but I figured most didn't let their cars sit overnight. The cavity was still wet with rubbing alcohol and I didn't want to seat the gasket until it was dry so I left it overnight.

I'll try to reseat the gasket tomorrow, I just want to make sure the engine won't be fubar'd.


i have a similar problem, mt car is warm when i started to take it off, and antifreeze is spraying everywhere. I guess I gotta let the car cool down a little first.
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Old 02-05-2007, 01:44 PM   #78
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i have a similar problem, mt car is warm when i started to take it off, and antifreeze is spraying everywhere. I guess I gotta let the car cool down a little first.
Your problem is a little different than mine.

I went back, cleaned the little pool of antifreeze that had accumulated out. Retorqued everything back down and had no problems.

To this day, I don't know if I had any coolant blowing by or if it was just condensation because of the cold that was throwing off white smoke.

...you should never be working on anything that has to do with the cooling system when the car is hot if you like yourself. It will be quite easy to burn yourself, just like it would be if you changed a car with hot oil.
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Old 02-05-2007, 03:45 PM   #79
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Your problem is a little different than mine.

I went back, cleaned the little pool of antifreeze that had accumulated out. Retorqued everything back down and had no problems.

To this day, I don't know if I had any coolant blowing by or if it was just condensation because of the cold that was throwing off white smoke.

...you should never be working on anything that has to do with the cooling system when the car is hot if you like yourself. It will be quite easy to burn yourself, just like it would be if you changed a car with hot oil.
I know this from past experiances. I just waited a few minutes and it was fine. Just had to clean the little pool of antifreeze. For the record the carb cleaner worked great, and cleaned all the build up in the aicv. Everything works great now.
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Old 03-25-2007, 06:46 PM   #80
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there is a good possibility that i might have to go through this cleaning process but i just wanted to run the symptoms im having by you guys before starting the process...

i was driving on a rainy day in 3rd gear i gave the car a good rev up then put it into 4th, once i was in 4th at about 2500 to 3000 rpm's (cruising at low throttle) the check engine light came on i stopped to check if it was something obviouse but i didnt see anything. the car was still runing fine untill i turned the a/c on, then the car dropped down really low in idle (under 500 rpm's)and started idling rough, but didnt turn off. so i turned the a/c off and it was back to normal. now i just havnt been using my a/c untill i get a hold of a scanner to do a check up. but today i noticed that i pulled into my driveway and as i was letting the turbo cool off i noticed that as soon as the radiator fans kicked in (even though the a/c was off) the car started doing the same thing again. what do you guys think? time to order a new IACV seal? by the way its an 02 wrx only mod on it is full 3" exhaust from the turbo back no cat with resonator and apex can at the end, also a greddy oil catcher boositng 10psi. oh yeah one more thing i just got the car but i have had variouse turbo cars in the past but the turbo on this beast sounds completly diffrent when its spooling up, it almost sounds like a super charger ?!? is that normal ?? thanx for all of your time !!

Last edited by GHOST R1DER; 03-26-2007 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 04-01-2007, 04:43 PM   #81
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My 2003 Legacy Outback VDC has been stalling at every red light. I've tried looking for the IACV, but couldn't find it. Where is the IACV on a 2003 Legacy Outback VDC? I'd appreciate if anyone can point it out to me. Thanks.
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Old 04-04-2007, 05:31 PM   #82
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whats up everyone, i just wanted to follow up on my previouse post...

i hooked the car up to the scanner once i got the reading it was the 2nd o2 sesor that was causing the problems the scanner also said to check all grounds as well so i lifter the car up and found one of the cables on the sensor had been snaged and cut in the proces of dropping in motor, so i took the sensor off the old engine slapped it on the new one and problem was eliminated !!
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Old 04-06-2007, 09:23 PM   #83
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+100 on having a new gasket beforehand. Mine "grew" exponentially the moment the IAC was off and of course the dealer was out of stock.
BTW it cured my idle woes ( rough with and w/o AC ) plus the throttle response feels better.
I had done the TB coolant bypass so no worries on the antifreeze.
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Old 05-14-2007, 02:20 PM   #84
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Default Checking your IAC

Hi, I think I could provide some info that might help you check your IAC. I've never tested one on a Subaru, but my friend's Mitsubishi IAC went bad.

The IAC is basically a stepper motor that opens and closes a door to allow air into the intake when the throttle plate is closed.

They usually get gunked up, and you can usually clean them and they're fine. I think if they get gunked up enough, you may end up burning out some of the windings in the motor as it tries to turn against the gunk, but gets stalled instead. When you stall an electric motor, it just becomes a wire between the 12V and GND, which will heat up and fail.

To check your IAC, you'd probably need to just measure the resistance across the different sets of windings.

Like i said, i've never checked the Subaru ones, so I don't know how many pins or sets of windings there are. If you don't have a multimeter, and you're willing to experiment with your old IAC, try putting 12V across 2 pins at a time to see if it steps the motor. That may or may not work depending on the type of motor. Using a multimeter is the best way.

I'm going to check out a friend's WRX's IAC later this week, so hopefully I'll have some measurements.
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Old 05-15-2007, 08:15 PM   #85
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SWEET!! I have been having the same issdue, high idle of 1500RPM in slow traffic and hot weather. I will give this a try also. Thanks for the great advice.
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Old 05-25-2007, 08:58 AM   #86
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Just been reading and following this thread for sometime. I'm finally going to get down to cleaning my IACV today. Got the gasket and tap screws as recommended from way...top.
I've been tackling other issues like cleaning MAF, replacing air filter, PCV and fuel filter and such...just...I guess!...over-due maintenance/cleaning .
Car's been feeling better and better after every one of the mentioned items were serviced/cleaned and now this should (I hope ) complete the better "idle" and acceleration problems I was having.
Wish me luck !
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Old 05-25-2007, 11:10 AM   #87
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OK!...It's been a little over an hour now and... D-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-MN !!!!!!
I mean...WHAT IN THE NAME OF... !
That thing is DUHhhhh....reeee!!!!!
I can't believe the car's been even rolling/running like that! I was expecting "dirty" but this is overwhelmin!!! Those of you who haven't cleaned your IACV or experienced the many mentioned syntoms...PLEASE!...take a few minutes to do it now. You'll be very surpriced how much "YUK" you can get in there!
My only question now is...Do I have to reset the ECU after the cleaning is done and all the parts are back in??
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Old 05-25-2007, 02:26 PM   #88
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DONE !
My baby hasn't felt this good since 2002 !
Drove it below "boost" around the block, the car feels so good...I think I'm in love again .
Maybe it doesn't even need an ECU resetting...Does it??
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Old 05-25-2007, 02:29 PM   #89
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I don't think I bothered to reset mine. It just immediately started driving better. Any 'compensation' it learned for the IACV (which won't be much if at all) will be unlearned soon enough. I'd only reset if you are having some really odd issues that might be related to suddenly going from gunky to clean IACV i.e. it is acting like it's compensating or fighting itself.

-Biggly
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Old 05-28-2007, 01:11 AM   #90
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Yeah, I can't remember whether I reset or not the first time I cleaned. I don't believe I reset the ECU the second time, and for the third... today... I didn't.

The bad news... today's cleaning (again, the third time) is the first one when cleaning improved things a little bit... then this evening the car stalled out at a stop sign. At 82k miles, on my second block and fourth turbo... it's probably time to get a new IACV. Alas... $280 (give or take) down the toilet... but this cleaning technique bought me at least two years. It lasted longer than the connecting rod in cylinder #2 (I have a great paperweight, but that's another story).
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Old 05-29-2007, 04:19 PM   #91
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wow I have been searching for an iacv fix for some time and finally stumble on this...
is this the same for a 2000 Forrester (obviously not turbo)?? I have a CeL for my speed sensor (no speedo or odometer) and IACV
I can deal with no speedo or odometer (I have a GPS that I am using until I get the money for the speed sensor) but the rough idle is killing me- it come and goes... and I went to the parts store and am not willing for shell out the $400 they want for a IACV

thanks for the write up- seems simple enough

hopefully it's the same application

-Noah
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Old 06-13-2007, 05:23 PM   #92
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Is this the same for the STI?

My only question is you soak the metal block that you unscrew? I am not understanding how people are saying that is going bad.... if it's just a metal block above the manifold that has a gasket, how does other than the gasket go bad.. does the metal wear..etc?

I am going to do this, just gotta get the gasket and screws as mentioned above... my idle fluctates and is throwing my car a p0304... even though I am NOT misfiring...

Thanks,
-Nigel
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Old 06-15-2007, 10:44 PM   #93
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Is this the same for the STI?
I don't know personally, but would assume the idle controllers are similar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy View Post
My only question is you soak the metal block that you unscrew? I am not understanding how people are saying that is going bad.... if it's just a metal block above the manifold that has a gasket, how does other than the gasket go bad.. does the metal wear..etc?
Some soak, others have swabbed it gently with q-tips. The issue is sometimes the cleaning stops having an impact. I do not know whether it is a question of just too much dirt building up, or if the sensor itself has gone bad. But sometimes... you can clean, but the problem persists until you replace the IACV.
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Old 06-16-2007, 12:21 AM   #94
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If it is the same as a Toyota, the motor eventually wears out. The more resistance it has, the quicker it will wear out or burn up.

So, a sticky IACV will have more stress on the little DC motor that opens the valve, and over time it will just go dead.

Thank the Subaru Engineering Gods for designing an easy to work on auto - my Toyota Sienna IACV cleaning project took almost 5 hours. Subaru - maybe 10 minutes after you do it once. I spent 20 minutes the first time, trying to put the old gasket on. Get a new gasket *before* performing removal!

Bill in SD
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Old 06-21-2007, 04:01 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooterforever View Post
I don't know personally, but would assume the idle controllers are similar.



Some soak, others have swabbed it gently with q-tips. The issue is sometimes the cleaning stops having an impact. I do not know whether it is a question of just too much dirt building up, or if the sensor itself has gone bad. But sometimes... you can clean, but the problem persists until you replace the IACV.


Hmm... I physically can't find this on the sti... I think they might have changed it from a wrx to sti..?

Anyone with an sti that could help verify.. I'm looking in my engine bay right now and where that picture above is a I have a little black box, took it off and definatly not what was pictured above... mine was a long straw like thing...

-Nigel
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Old 07-05-2007, 11:15 PM   #96
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I have a 1996 EJ22, and have a very stumbly idle right now. So I bought a gasket for what I thought would be my IAC. However, it instead of having the two rectangular chambers like in the pictures, it has a circular hole and a square hole below it with 4 bolt holes to the sides. I have no IAC ontop of the throttle body, so is this what I need to be looking at? The IAB line goes right into it.

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Old 07-06-2007, 09:34 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy View Post
Hmm... I physically can't find this on the sti... I think they might have changed it from a wrx to sti..?

Anyone with an sti that could help verify.. I'm looking in my engine bay right now and where that picture above is a I have a little black box, took it off and definatly not what was pictured above... mine was a long straw like thing...

-Nigel
I was just looking through the factory service manual for my 06 wrx tr (which I believe has the same TB as the STI) please correct me if I'm wrong, and i didn't see the same IACV as on the 05s wrx's (excluding the STI) and earlier. It may be incorporated with the TPS and control unit.. The only thing that shows in the sev. man. is the MAP sensor (on top) and the TPS and control as one unit (on the pass side), and the coolant ports. So that is a good question if/where the STIs and 06s+ IACV is located.....I think since the STIs and 06+ WRXs have a electronic TB there no need for the IACV. I MAY be wrong though........

Last edited by 06grayrex; 07-06-2007 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 07-09-2007, 07:47 AM   #98
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If you've done TB coolant mod, is cleaning still necessary to do?
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Old 07-09-2007, 08:11 AM   #99
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06gray- the drive-by-wire engines do not need an IAC since the ECU now controls throttle position at all times. They don't have cruise control modules either.

gopsu- the bypass mod has nothing to do with IAC function. If there is no longer coolant going through the TB then you won't see any coolant when you take the valve off, but that's about it. The gasket should still be replaced to prevent any intake leaks.
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Old 07-14-2007, 11:38 AM   #100
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I need some advice. The car is an '02 WRX 4EAT, with 17X,000 miles.


We've been having a problem with our cold start/idle recently. On occasion, the cold start would start rather poorly, with the rpms being both lower, and really uneven - it would cause the whole car to shake. This would work itself out as the car started warming up, and when warm the car seemed to be ok. We had no CELs, but thought trying to clean the IAC valve might help.

So, we removed the valve and cleaned it by putting gas in the holes, letting it sit, and draining the gunk out. We reinstalled the unit with a fresh gasket, and started the car and the idle was running faster than normal. It was holding a fast idle for several seconds, then it threw a CEL (P1507), and the idle started changing (it would drop to 1200 or something, then start climbing up).

We took it for an "off-boost" drive as described in this thread, and let it sit for 20mins. After clearing the CEL we started it up again, and we had the same problem/CEL.

EDIT: Oh, also, there was no smoke coming out of the tailpipe when we took the car for a drive.

So we left it overnight, made sure the bolts were still tight in the morning and fired it up again. The start up wasn't quite as smooth (it didn't turn over as quickly) as when the car was new, and it went immedietly to a high idle. After 10 seconds, there was a shudder, it threw the same CEL, and the idle start being odd again (it went lower, than started creeping up).


So, any thoughts. Did we break something. Did we somehow install the valve wrong. Is the IAC now completely gone? Should we bother to remove and reinstall the valve again, just to make sure?

Also, anyone know what the part number is for the IAC valve.

Last edited by AVATAR-X; 07-14-2007 at 11:53 AM.
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