Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday November 26, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Service & Maintenance

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-20-2008, 03:17 PM   #201
byroll01
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 611
Join Date: Dec 1999
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Saratoga Springs NY
Vehicle:
'05 E55 AMG
GetADomTune.com

Default

didn't the new 2.5 n/a's go to drive by wire?
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
byroll01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2008, 04:10 PM   #202
oogiesfaded
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 172402
Join Date: Feb 2008
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: slc, utah
Vehicle:
2007 impreza 2.5i
urban grey

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by byroll01 View Post
didn't the new 2.5 n/a's go to drive by wire?
I think so.
I just found out it was my gas that was doing it. I been using some stop and go gas station gas, and the summer stuff was fine, but the winter grade gas was just burning off to much i think. was forced to get some chevron gas, and my cars running great now.
oogiesfaded is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2008, 05:31 PM   #203
andrewt461
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 70647
Join Date: Sep 2004
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:
2004 WRX
Blue

Default

i was having intermittent super high (2k - 2.5krpms) and super low idle so figured i'd give this a shot.
Seems like it may have done the trick so far... O_O
I hate stuff that is hard to diagnose!
andrewt461 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2008, 04:06 PM   #204
vapeterson
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 193820
Join Date: Nov 2008
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, CA
Vehicle:
2002 Outback Sport
Red

Default

I have a 2002 Outback Sport, Manual transmission and for the most part, I love it. Unfortunately I live in CA and at 6 years old, the car now needs to pass state emissions standards. That normally wouldn't be a problem on a modern car except my car seems to have an intermittent IAC valve issue that shows up on the car's computer, thus not allowing it to pass smog (apparently any record of a "check engine" light will not allow a car to pass). The Suby dealership wants to charge me $380 for a new OEM valve and another $100 or so for labor. (eek!) I've found that I can get a non-OEM valve for half that price, put it in myself or save even more $ and clean & replace the current one (intermittent problems usually indicate that parts are dirty).

My concern is that the car's computer will still say that there was a "check engine" light in the past and since I have no way to reset it, it will still not pass smog even though I've fixed the offending issue.

Will the computer automatically reset itself if I fix or clean the part?
Can any mechanic reset the computer?
Do I have to go to the dealership to get them to reset the computer (if they're willing to when they didn't do the work)

Thanks!

EDIT - I just found the link to the trouble codes (http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/) so I don't think I'll have any problems resetting the computer.
Any other advice would be great.
Like should I just clean the IAC or replace it completely?

Last edited by vapeterson; 11-09-2008 at 06:07 PM. Reason: New info found
vapeterson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2008, 06:40 PM   #205
Dobbs
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 28291
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Vehicle:
2015 WRX

Default

decouple the housing from the electronics (field coil). completely clean the housing. reassemble. the tumbler valve inside the housing should spin freely. after this has been completed, disconnect the battery (+), pump the brakes a few times till you see the odometer go blank, reattach the battery, and it will be reset. no codes will show.
Dobbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2008, 02:06 PM   #206
S.G.D
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 36448
Join Date: May 2003
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Default

is it possible for a dirty IACV to cause a CEL?

also, my motor is a JDM STI with about 11,000 kms on it. could the IACV be dirty enough already to cause strange idle problems?

thank you!
S.G.D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2008, 02:08 PM   #207
srREXed
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 72234
Join Date: Oct 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: S. FL... Now Fort Polk, LA
Vehicle:
2004 WRX SRR
EJ257-35R-6MT

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by S.G.D View Post
is it possible for a dirty IACV to cause a CEL?

also, my motor is a JDM STI with about 11,000 kms on it. could the IACV be dirty enough already to cause strange idle problems?

thank you!
Thats almost 7k miles/// Its like a new motor. I dont think you would have iacv problems with that little mileage on it. Unless you got a motor with much more mileage on it than you were told. It takes literally 1 minute to remove the iacv and check it for congestion. Its up to you if you really want to check it. Once its off, you need to replace the gasket because it expands.
srREXed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-20-2008, 02:42 PM   #208
S.G.D
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 36448
Join Date: May 2003
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Default

yeah this motor is very new and i bought it from a reliable source, so im not worried about it having more milage or anything. they warned me when i left the shop that something in the IACV was funky. apparently it's common.

thanks for the input, i'll probably open it up to check it out.
S.G.D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2008, 11:45 AM   #209
byroll01
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 611
Join Date: Dec 1999
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Saratoga Springs NY
Vehicle:
'05 E55 AMG
GetADomTune.com

Default

I kept meaning to post here and finally had a chance today.

I cleaned my IAC a couple months ago and it helped a little with the idle dip. I had it stall on me again so I figured I better do the complete disassembly/cleaning and went ahead and ordered a set of 5 point torx on ebay. (made sure you get a US seller, I waited almost a month for them to come from Israel)
Taking it back off was cake and my gasket hadn't swollen yet. Once I seperated the two parts I could see that there was quite a bit of buildup I had missed. Same as b4 I used some carb cleaner and q-tips to clean up as much as I could. I kept spinning it to see if there was anything hanging it up still. I kept feeling what felt like a single grain of sand in there. I blew it out with my compressor and got it to spin as smooth as a I could.

Let me tell you the difference is noticeable. Like it was said b4 the throttle response is back. Small inputs make a much bigger difference. I also noticed I can accelerate from 1500rpm where b4 the car would bog and shake so bad that I had to downshift.

All in all I recommend if you are going to buy the gasket and clean this you may just as well buy the torx bits and do it right. The difference is big enough to make it worth it.

Good luck
Byron
byroll01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2008, 01:39 PM   #210
Barnacules
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 170018
Join Date: Jan 2008
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
2005 WRX STi
Aspen White

Default

Awesome post, thank you. I am going to give this a try because I too have the idle dip and noticed that when my car is cold it does not want to accelerate hardly at all.
Barnacules is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-18-2008, 12:31 PM   #211
Gr3en
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 160991
Join Date: Oct 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Gorillaoffroadcompany.com
Vehicle:
05 Corn Burner
Dirt Silver?

Default

I have an 05 RS and I have the same symptoms. Does my car have an IACV on the throttle body or a throttle position sensor that may need cleaning?
Gr3en is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2008, 12:12 PM   #212
byroll01
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 611
Join Date: Dec 1999
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Saratoga Springs NY
Vehicle:
'05 E55 AMG
GetADomTune.com

Default

UPDATE: Last night after the car was warmed up it decided to start idling high and proceeded to throw the p1507. It was running horrible. Hesitation and bouncing idle. I read the code and went to bed. This morning I pulled the IAC again and felt a little sticking in there. It seems like maybe I missed one piece of sand or carbon or something.

Reading through a couple other threads I see uncle scotty suggest lubrication of some kind on there, which I didn't do after cleaning it last time. I didn't have much around so I put a little PB blaster in there. It seemed to ease up and smooth out the friction when I gave it a spin. Unfortunately as soon as I put it all together, cleared the code and started it up, nothing had changed. Not knowing what to do I unplugged the IAC while the car was running, blipped the throttle a few times and plugged the sensor back in. Immediately the idle returned to normal. I cleared the code and let it fully warm up and everything seems to be fine again.

Maybe I'm gonna have to replace the IAC just to be safe. Has anyone tried the cheaper rebuilt throttlebody that was mentioned earlier?
Edit: I just checked and it looks like there are a bunch on ebay and google shopping for around 125-150. I'll see if it comes back and if it does I'll just get one of those.

Byron
byroll01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2009, 11:18 AM   #213
jacky599r
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 137631
Join Date: Jan 2007
Vehicle:
2006 WRX
Red

Default

still....does 06 wrx dbw has a iacv???????????????????????? my idling is bad
jacky599r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2009, 02:44 PM   #214
byroll01
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 611
Join Date: Dec 1999
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Saratoga Springs NY
Vehicle:
'05 E55 AMG
GetADomTune.com

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacky599r View Post
still....does 06 wrx dbw has a iacv???????????????????????? my idling is bad

I'm 99% sure you don't. You are drive by wire right? If you don't see the part on your throttle body that is pictured on page one then you don't.

If your idle is bad and you don't have a IAC the 1st step is check all your vacuum lines for leaks/cracks/unplugged. A common spot is the little mess attached to the front pas. side of the intake manifold behind the power steering pump/alt.
There is a crappy blue OEM T down there with no flared ends that the vacuum lines can be easily pulled off from.

Good luck.

So far so good from my last post.
byroll01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2009, 06:39 PM   #215
XenoWolf
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 64029
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Potsdam, NY (Tremont, PA)
Vehicle:
1999 Impreza L Wagon
Sun Bleach Red

Default

Will I do any damage to the IACV if I soak it with the solenoid attached?

Also, I had no screw/gasket problems. I guess I got lucky.
XenoWolf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2009, 01:22 PM   #216
tfcheng
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 144961
Join Date: Mar 2007
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Vehicle:
2009 Impreza
White

Default

Hi guys,
Recently I also have this idle problem, I called up the dealership here in Rockville/MD for how much to get it fixed. They told me it is $690 for the "whole system" or ~$350 for the "sensor". My car is 03' WRX, I am not quite sure if what i read on this thread applies to my problem (replace the gasket and cleaning). Can anyone shed some light on it? thanks!!
tfcheng is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2009, 01:39 PM   #217
rexman2002
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 140244
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicago
Vehicle:
02 bugeye
"stare ale jare"

Default

Just pull it apart (take the 2 screws off), clean it, put a new gasket in and reinstall it.
rexman2002 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2009, 02:38 PM   #218
byroll01
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 611
Join Date: Dec 1999
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Saratoga Springs NY
Vehicle:
'05 E55 AMG
GetADomTune.com

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rexman2002 View Post
Just pull it apart (take the 2 screws off), clean it, put a new gasket in and reinstall it.
I agree. for the price of the gasket, cleaner, and time it's worth it. If it doesn't work you're really no worse off than you were. Plus you can buy a new or used sensor and put it in while the gasket you got is still pretty new.
byroll01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2009, 11:33 PM   #219
rick-l
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 33868
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Chesterfield, MO
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
srp

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tfcheng View Post
Hi guys,
Recently I also have this idle problem, I called up the dealership here in Rockville/MD for how much to get it fixed. They told me it is $690 for the "whole system" or ~$350 for the "sensor". My car is 03' WRX, I am not quite sure if what i read on this thread applies to my problem (replace the gasket and cleaning). Can anyone shed some light on it? thanks!!
Does it idle high when hot? Make sure the cruise isn't hanging up the throttle. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=161
rick-l is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2009, 09:15 PM   #220
ZOMBIEWAGON02
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 206319
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: 541
Vehicle:
2002 Outback Sport
Green...mostly

Default

SO i have a 02 OBS i dont have a part like the one in the picture... So How should I fix the rough idle???
ZOMBIEWAGON02 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2009, 11:23 PM   #221
Hagwag02
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 63445
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Lebanon, (SW) Missouri, USA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
PSM

Default

I've had a new gasket in my stash for three years with every intention of getting the IAC cleaned. I'm at 94,000 miles.

My cold idle has gotten really bad, rough warm idle with occasional high revs, etc...

I am in the process of cleaning it right now.

I had no issues with the mounting screws. But, I decided to remove the solenoid from the metal valve. Those screwheads take a five-sided torx-like bit. Good luck finding a bit that fits. I used a pair of vise grips. They'll work, but be careful because the bolts are kind of soft.

I could not believe how gummy the valve was. The rotating cylinder would stick more than spin.

I am soaking the entire unit sans solenoid in gasoline and have used dozens of Q-tips. Be sure to clean underneath the cylinder. I used a lidded plastic container with about 12 ounces of gasoline, and had to dump it out once and refill with fresh gas. When I finished, the second batch was nearly as filthy as the first.

I had to scrape off the coolant side with a razor blade and sand the top with some very fine grit sand paper to make the top smooth. Be careful not to scratch or etch the metal surface.

I have high hopes this cleaning will remedy the idling issues.

Last edited by Hagwag02; 04-10-2009 at 11:31 PM.
Hagwag02 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 07:08 PM   #222
Rehabguy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 127263
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
2004 WXR 18GXT+EWG
WRB

Default

I feel for all who are suffering from this...
I used the gas soaking/bathing method someone here so cleverly suggested at first. I repeated the process 3X and used about a dozen q-tips to wipe and scrub it clean as I could. Reinstalled and it would still shut off on me at a traffic light if I didn't slowly come to a stop in 2nd gear.
Then I found 2gnt2wrx posted about removing the motor (black plastic part) and cleaning a groove in the underside of the magnet/valve itself. Yes, a lot more gunk came outta there... and yes, the magnet was NOT spinning freely. I have now reinstalled and test drove for about 15 mins. Off boost, stop and start. Idle holds pretty good
HOWEVER! Once I parked it, I decided to give it the final test. I turned on the A/C as someone else here suggested. The rpms DID go up... but the idle dropped and became a lil' unstable and the car shut off in about 30 secs. Restarted the car and w/ the A/C off it still holds idle fine. Problem is when I turn on the A/C.
Guess I am gonna have to replace the damn thing after all
Rehabguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2009, 06:50 PM   #223
dome24
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 111845
Join Date: Apr 2006
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Anchor-Town
Vehicle:
97 RUBAsU Tall2dr
96 Neota Tacoma 4x4

Default

Well, I've been having a hi-idle to low idle issue lately along with the IACV CEL that comes and goes, so I removed the valve and set the gasket aside (didn't tear/break or swell?). I cleaned the valve with "Air Intake Cleaner". Sprayed the "big stuff" out just under the pressure from the can, then let it soak for a few minutes with AIC in the valve and wiped out as much as possible after soak with qtips. After air drying I reinstalled using the perfect old gasket and still had issues.
I re-removed and sprayed and qtipped with wd40, reinstalled with old gasket, I have a new gasket but like i said the old one was perfect so i want to save the new one til i really need it, and i still have the intermittent hi-idle after driving and then a lo-idle on startup.
Its really strange cause it will hang at 1.5krpm after some stop and go driving, I'm a courier and usually the issue flares up at the same stop every day and won't go away after, but when i blip the throttle it will fall to 1k. It usually is fine after a hi way jaunt for 10-15 min of stop and go til it flares up again.
I want to pull the motor off and clean completly but can't find the proper torx bit.

03 WRX only UPipe, TMIC and STi cat-back right now just flipped 45k miles
dome24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2009, 02:10 AM   #224
rick-l
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 33868
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Chesterfield, MO
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
srp

Default

dome24

Are you sure the cruise control cable isn't holding the throttle open?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=161

The symptoms are exactly like happened to my 2003.
rick-l is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-21-2009, 10:06 AM   #225
Kevin Thomas
Street Racing Instructor
Moderator
 
Member#: 110
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: 1997 OBS, 1996 SVX, 1988 RX
Vehicle:
1989 1989 XT6

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Plays_With_toys View Post
I have a 1996 EJ22, and have a very stumbly idle right now. So I bought a gasket for what I thought would be my IAC. However, it instead of having the two rectangular chambers like in the pictures, it has a circular hole and a square hole below it with 4 bolt holes to the sides. I have no IAC ontop of the throttle body, so is this what I need to be looking at? The IAB line goes right into it.


I noticed it did not seem like your question was answered. I own a 1997 2.2ltr Subaru Impreza Outback Sport Wagon. It has been throwing this code lately. This came up after installing an aftermarket turbo kit with the BOV venting to the atmosphere. No high idle! Just stumbles and sometimes stalls during hard stops, sudden take-offs or sudden letting off the throttle. Cruising between 1500-2500rpm it loses power sometimes. I know it's not the BOV venting to the atmosphere because I have sense capped it off for testing purposes.

I can always get the P1507 code to come back right after getting on a highway, speeding up between 55-65mph. Very consistent at this same spot (It's the road I take to work).

My engine make-up appears the same as yours. I am having trouble locating the IAC. My question is, is it the device that you have circled? Anyone? I have taken today off from work to fix this item so I can get this car through Motor Vehicle. Thanks for any help.
Kevin Thomas is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WTB: IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) JasonF Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 1 07-29-2009 02:40 PM
WTB IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) Tical Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 2 05-22-2009 03:31 PM
wtb- IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) BrettS Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 2 05-03-2006 11:57 AM
IACV Idle Air Control Valve jvcastillo21 Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 6 02-10-2006 11:02 PM
How To Replace The IACV Gasket (Idle Air Control Valve) scooterforever Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 10 04-21-2005 06:52 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.