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Old 02-05-2014, 11:58 AM   #1
jlangholzj
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Default jlangholzj's 2014 WRX premium build and planning notebook

LAST EDITED 4/15/14 (9:39 CST)

I think after a couple weeks of digging around I've finally decided on some of the essentials of the build. Like most of you guys I wanted to make a central spot for planning and build progress. I've found that to be a bit easier than casting crap all over. I'm also going to be using this as a bit of a write-up section and I'll cover in depth what I did for the mods and so forth.

Build Goals
-Fun, reliable DD that will see lots of RallyX time.
-Shooting for 300ftLbs (ish). Don't really care what my "power output" is so long as my target lambda is hit.
-Not worried about NVH from bushing upgrades.
-Looking to have a well balanced car that I can sharpen my driving skills with.

Build Plans (in order)
-gauges and logger first
-coilovers
-exhaust
-e-tune (and tuning by me)
-track mods
-protune?

Whats all going on and why
-Nameless TBE
I've heard from several people that the catted downpipe they offer is one of the best for our cars. From what I've seen the downpipe alone is a great investment and helps with power and fuel consumption. Will be going catted so 1) I don't smell and 2)help combat any possible boost creep.

-Corn
wasn't planning on running this at first but I've recently helped a buddy get his '04 STI running on corn...wowzer. That's going to happen.

-Cobb AP
pretty self explanatory on this one. Great tool for flashing, code reading and engine monitoring.


-Tatrix cable
I wanted the AP for logging capabilities and gauges but after doing some more research yet I've decided against it. I'll be tuning and flashing via Tatrix cable and the car will have a stand-alone data logger, I'll get to that later.

-Cobb SF intake
not real sold on this one yet. The stock airbox will hold fine at the power levels I'm looking for and as much as I like to hear the recirc from the turbo still debating if I want that much of a "hey look at me". Once I go pro-tune I may do a tune with and without the box to see if it has any effects on performance (spool mainly is what I'm interested in)



-gauges
Defi Boost and oil pressure, Innovative MXT-L. First two are pretty self explanatory again but the choice for the Innovative WB02 came from display options. I've spent a fair amount of time tuning N/A motors and I traditionally use lambda for tuning, not afr. So far the innovative is the only reputable gauge that I've found that will allow me to display in lambda. These gauges will be in a APC pillar pod.

I've been talking back and forth with Winston at Podi and his latest sample for the matched gauges looks epic. I'll be getting a boost/vac, wideband, and oil pressure gauge from them. The other reason I was looking at the MXT-L was for logging, again...more on that later.

-feedback upgrades
kartboy short throw, engine/trans/pitch mounts. The stock throw isn't horrible but I've heard lots of positive reviews about the kartboy so I'll bite the bullet on that one. I've also thought that the feedback from the motor is pretty numb and I've heard that after guys install the pitch mount, as well as engine and trans its helps stiffen everything up and smooth out the control. I like to drive on feedback not gauges so this is a must for me.

-suspension upgrades
K-sport coilovers or Feal 441 coilovers Gravel spec coilovers like the feal 441's, whiteline adjustable front and rear ARB's. I'm going to wait on the ARB's to see how much they really are needed. The coilovers I'm going to use to help lower the car down and having for adjustable compression/rebound damping. There's some other things that can be done here in the suspension dept. but I'd much rather learn the feel of the car and see if anything needs to be changed.

-brakes
Probably will go the route of new pads to help with fade once summer comes around. Again, haven't had any track time and auto-X is short enough that fade should be no issue.


-brakes won't be an issue for me at this level of competition. If i get more serious with the car and start welding in a cage, well....then I'll put some bigger brakes on.

-tires
Currently is sitting on Blizzaks and I've got the stock summers that it came with. May end up getting some performance tires if I can pick up a set of lightweight rims for cheap. We'll see. Looking at getting a set of braid wheels to put the winters on for rallyX OR biting the bullet and getting 15" wheels with some proper gravel tires on them.

-cosmetic/misc
front lip, tint, DVD HU, wing spacers, debadge, tail light wraps and headlight paint. I've always thought the wrx/sti looks sharp with a front lip so that's the direction I'm going. I'd REALLY like a VR lip from black top aero but MAN thats a lot for a lip. Tint because DGM and darker windows should equal awesomesauce. Stock HU seems dinky.

The few cars I've seen with the wing spacer really set it off for me. Just a little pop. I WILL NOT be purchasing the perrin unit, rather making my own. I've got access to a lathe and TIG so the plan is to make the cups for attachment and then weld in the connecting pieces with 12 or 10 gauge steel. Powdercoat and done. The reason for this is I want to move it back ~1" or so to allow for full travel of the hatch.

-Data Logger
The AEM AQ-1 looks like a pretty awesome little unit. It's got additional analog inputs that can be used for logging and it will hook into the OBD2 port on the car. This would take place of the Cobb AP and serve as my e-tuning port. Added bonus is that the AQ-1 has an rs-232 port for GPS overlay, internal 3-axis accelerometer and a removable SD card for LOTS of data room. I'm finding out more information on this now.


Projected Budget
Poweraders: $2500
Gauges: $700
Handling: $2200
Misc: $880
Wheels/tires: $1000

totes: $7250 (all new)


of course I'll be keeping an ear/eye out for used parts and deals but for planning sake I priced everything new.

Brand New:




As it sits now:
(reserved for future work)
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Last edited by jlangholzj; 04-15-2014 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:59 AM   #2
jlangholzj
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Reserved for engine mods
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:59 AM   #3
jlangholzj
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reserved for suspension and bushing mods
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Old 02-05-2014, 11:59 AM   #4
jlangholzj
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reserved for cosmetic/interior mods
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:29 PM   #5
yamahaSHO
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Living in Nebraska and no plans for corn?
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Old 03-13-2014, 02:39 PM   #6
jlangholzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO View Post
Living in Nebraska and no plans for corn?

sshhhhhhh


I'm fairly experienced with tuning AND e85 so don't tempt me anymore.... I think before I did that the car would get a m400


In other news tomorrow I should have an update! ....and I REALLY need to update this. Project took a change of plans and it's being turned into a rallyX warrior instead of a autoX warrior
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:13 PM   #7
yamahaSHO
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I pretty much only tune on E85 these days; I can't remember the last car I tuned on gasoline. Both my STi and [NA] S2000 are on E85 and my [supercharged] SHO was on E85 before I sold it last year. When going from NA E85 to boosted E85 tuning, you'll be amazed at the gains you get when boosted is added in.

I've always wanted to try RallyX, but never had a car I was willing to tear up like that. I enjoy the road course, so that's what I picked up the S2000 for.

Last edited by yamahaSHO; 03-13-2014 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:47 PM   #8
1wrxtra
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First of all, congrats on your car, and it seems like you've done some good research on the parts you are looking for.

A few things I'd like the point out/ask (which i've included in the quote below):


Quote:
Originally Posted by jlangholzj View Post

Build Goals
-Fun, reliable DD that will see some AutoX time.
-Shooting for 300HP and 340ftLbs (ish).
-Not worried about NVH from bushing upgrades.
-Looking to have a well balanced car that I can sharpen my driving skills with.


You are looking for ~300 HP / ~340 TQ at the wheels, do you know how you are going to generate these numbers? e.g. dyno shop nearby, airboy, virtual dyno, etc.

I ask you this because you will get difference #'s based on what you use to calculate how much power you are making, and what fuel you are using.

Dynojet will likely give you those numbers around stage 3 on 93 pump gas (close to fully bolted but stock turbo)

Mustang Dyno and Virtual Dyno will PROBABLY not give you those numbers on the stock turbo unless you run meth or E85.



Build Plans (in order)
-gauges first
-coilovers
-exhaust
-possibly intake (haven't 100% pulled the trigger on that one)
-e-tune (and tuning by me)
-track mods
-protune?

Whats all going on and why

-Nameless TBE
I've heard from several people that the catted downpipe they offer is one of the best for our cars. From what I've seen the downpipe alone is a great investment and helps with power and fuel consumption. Will be going catted so 1) I don't smell and 2)help combat any possible boost creep.

I have the Nameless catted TBE on my sedan. 5" mufflers, resonated mid-pipe. I LOVE IT. I loved the sound of the cat-back when I was stage 1, and had a huge boner when I drove it the first time after going stage 2.

-Cobb AP
pretty self explanatory on this one. Great tool for flashing, code reading and engine monitoring.

Yep, good idea. I'd look into getting an e-tune if dyno tuning is too expensive or not available in your area. Torqued Performance is amazing. He's tuned my car since I was stage 1, and over the last 1.5 years I've had about 25 revisions between where I started and where I am now. COULD NOT BE HAPPIER.

-Cobb SF intake
not real sold on this one yet. The stock airbox will hold fine at the power levels I'm looking for and as much as I like to hear the recirc from the turbo still debating if I want that much of a "hey look at me". Once I go pro-tune I may do a tune with and without the box to see if it has any effects on performance (spool mainly is what I'm interested in)

Don't go for a SRI, if you REALLY want to do an intake, go cold air. HOWEVER, you will again have to think about some things; does it rain A LOT where you live? Do you deal with large/deep puddles? If so, a true CAI reaching down into the wheel well may not be a good idea. Honestly, it's more a noisemaker than anything. At your power levels an intake will net you near nothing (including spool-wise) except pretty cool sounds.

-gauges
Defi Boost and oil pressure, Innovative MXT-L. First two are pretty self explanatory again but the choice for the Innovative WB02 came from display options. I've spent a fair amount of time tuning N/A motors and I traditionally use lambda for tuning, not afr. So far the innovative is the only reputable gauge that I've found that will allow me to display in lambda. These gauges will be in a APC pillar pod.

Personally, I dislike pillar pods. I would recommend the SMY cluster. However, this is my preference. I do agree with your gauge selection; I have AEM's wideband failsafe (boost and AFR) and AEM's 150psi oil pressure gauge.

-feedback upgrades
kartboy short throw, engine/trans/pitch mounts. The stock throw isn't horrible but I've heard lots of positive reviews about the kartboy so I'll bite the bullet on that one. I've also thought that the feedback from the motor is pretty numb and I've heard that after guys install the pitch mount, as well as engine and trans its helps stiffen everything up and smooth out the control. I like to drive on feedback not gauges so this is a must for me.

100% agree here. I went with the COBB adjustable short shifter and bushings, but I have the Beatrush pitch stop, motor mounts, transmission mount, transmission cross-member bushings, and drive-train bushings. I've had 2 people with near-stock WRX/STi's drive my car and they immediately noticed and thoroughly enjoy the difference that the mounts provide. Beatrush offers the highest durometer ("hardest") mounts that are available for our cars.

Projected Budget
Poweraders: $2500
Gauges: $700
Handling: $2200
Misc: $440

totes: $5807 (all new)

Depending on the dyno you use, I am 75% sure that you will not be able to hit your target with these numbers without meth or E85.

Here is my reasoning:

2012 WRX
KSTech 73mm CAI
Process West TMIC
ID 1000cc Injectors + DW65c fuel pump
Grimmspeed EBCS
Grimmspeed lightweight crank pulley
Nameless Performance TBE

I consistently make ~280 HP ~300 TQ at the wheels using Virtual Dyno @ 1.0 CF w/ 6 smoothing.

I have a Torqued Performance stage 3 tune, hitting ~20-21 psi.

If you buy all new, your TBE is going to cost you $2k alone. While DP + intake will be close to $2,500, it highly doubt it will net you the numbers you desire.
Dyno for evidence:


Good luck with everything man, I hope you have as much fun as I did! I am very much looking forward to your completed build.
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:30 PM   #9
yamahaSHO
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A couple things:

- What is "stage 3"?
- 6 Smoothing is what's giving you low numbers, what are you including in your VD logs? I bet your graph is unrealistcally silky smooth (I can't see your picture at work)!
- You can set the VD to DynoJet to output similar numbers.

For reference, my Virtual Dyno set to DynoJet with a 2 smoothing (more info found http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hp?t=2596867):

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Old 03-13-2014, 05:35 PM   #10
Trustkevin13
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Stage 3- TBE, Fuel pump, Cold Spark Plugs (optional), Bigger TMIC/FMIC, EBCS, Tune.
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:35 PM   #11
jlangholzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1wrxtra View Post
First of all, congrats on your car, and it seems like you've done some good research on the parts you are looking for.

A few things I'd like the point out/ask (which i've included in the quote below):

Dyno for evidence:


Good luck with everything man, I hope you have as much fun as I did! I am very much looking forward to your completed build.
I guess I should....adjust the numbers. They really aren't a "target" per-say as much of a indication that I want to stick relatively mild with this. Basically whatever power that I get with a turboback + tune is fine with me.

I've already had a few conversation with Eric and he's top notch. It was great talking to another tuner as well. Like I had mentioned I have LOTS of time tuning EFI n/a motors on e85/91/93/110 but nothing with forced induction. He's been a great help so far and helped qualm some of my concerns with IDC's and possible fixes for that. I will most definitely be going with him for an e-tune and I'll probably drag a couple of my buddies around and have them drive for me while I tune. We don't have an AWD dyno around here anywhere so it's a bummer to sit down and tune. There's one back home that I might have a chance to rent but we'll see.

Looks like prices have changed a bit since I looked at nameless last, or rather the options I want have changed will have to change that.

So far it does have the kartboy in but no pitch/eng/trans mounts yet. Don't feel a whole lot of difference other than the throw being a bit shorter due to different pickup points and a physically shorter handle.

The a-pillar pod for me was a must. Oil PSI, boost and lambda are all things that are critical to me. I don't want to be looking down to see them. I want to be driving and be able to glance over and look at what my car is doing, minimal distraction. Plus i have big meaty hands and arms so having iiiitttyyy biiitty gauges tucked down there wouldn't work well for me

Custom urethane flaps are going on tomorrow. I'll properly update this thing around then. Some additions include feal 441 gravel dampers, skid pans and possible provisions for proper gravel wheels/tires with it
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:42 PM   #12
jlangholzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO View Post
A couple things:

- What is "stage 3"?
- 6 Smoothing is what's giving you low numbers, what are you including in your VD logs? I bet your graph is unrealistcally silky smooth (I can't see your picture at work)!
- You can set the VD to DynoJet to output similar numbers.

For reference, my Virtual Dyno set to DynoJet with a 2 smoothing (more info found http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hp?t=2596867):
I'm assuming the "smoothing" you guys are talking about is the data filtration? I'd much rather get the raw data into matlab, do a fast Fourier and run a butterworth filter on it. Or do a comparative match/moving avg with some filtration techniques....yes I am a data geek

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trustkevin13 View Post
Stage 3- TBE, Fuel pump, Cold Spark Plugs (optional), Bigger TMIC/FMIC, EBCS, Tune.
you're missing the point he's making dood. I'm with Yammy in that i HATE....HATE HATE HATE the obsession over "what stage you runnin". There's lots of ways to make the power you want that doesn't fall into a "stage". Colder plugs are going to depend on timing and other things, everything I've read and the tuners I've talked to say that a TBE isn't necessary, simply the downpipe will do, not everyone's going to need a larger TMIC either....or an EBCS. Best way to make power with these cars sounds like a fuel pump (you did get that one right), injectors and a good tune.

I don't have time on a subaru dyno to back that statement up though :shrug:
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:55 PM   #13
Trustkevin13
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^^^^ Well see, I'm just basing this of TorquedPerformance. I didn't build my to a "stage", I just bolted on a ton of stuff to my car. You miss the point of saying stage though. It is easier to say "Stage 2" than it is to say, I've done a tune, downpipe, and typically an intake. It also makes it easier to base what you are going to do to your car overall knowing what goes into what.

For me it's easier to say stage 3+ELH+Ewg than it would be to say, I did a Perrin TMIC, STi Fuel Pump, AEM CAI, Cobb DP, Grimmspeed EBCS, Perrin ELH, tial 38mm EWG, vf52 swap, perrin inlet tube, and nameless axleback. do you kinda get it now? You need to calm down. I also guess youmissed reading Yammy's question as to what stage 3 was as well.

http://torquedperformance.com/2014-W...t-AP14STG3.htm
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trustkevin13 View Post
Stage 3- TBE, Fuel pump, Cold Spark Plugs (optional), Bigger TMIC/FMIC, EBCS, Tune.
I was being facetious. I personally still consider that "stage 2". Anything more than that, you're just modding. You won't need colder spark plugs on the stock turbo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jlangholzj View Post
I'm assuming the "smoothing" you guys are talking about is the data filtration? I'd much rather get the raw data into matlab, do a fast Fourier and run a butterworth filter on it. Or do a comparative match/moving avg with some filtration techniques....yes I am a data geek
Virtually any dyno you use will have some sort of smoothing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jlangholzj View Post
you're missing the point he's making dood. I'm with Yammy in that i HATE....HATE HATE HATE the obsession over "what stage you runnin". There's lots of ways to make the power you want that doesn't fall into a "stage". Colder plugs are going to depend on timing and other things, everything I've read and the tuners I've talked to say that a TBE isn't necessary, simply the downpipe will do, not everyone's going to need a larger TMIC either....or an EBCS. Best way to make power with these cars sounds like a fuel pump (you did get that one right), injectors and a good tune.

I don't have time on a subaru dyno to back that statement up though :shrug:
If you want to make good, solid, reliable power on a smaller budget, it's pretty easy on these cars. Although you don't absolutely need a TBE to make some power, it won't hurt getting a little bit more out of it. I like quiet, so I have a Cobb and an ELH, which is extremely quiet. When I get my new motor back together, I will fix the tapered flange problem and dump the EWG back into the DP.

You don't *need* a fuel pump or injectors, nor a TMIC. Some of it goes off of preference and how much little bit you're trying to extract (safely) with what you have. Sticking to a "stage 2" term, I'd recommend at TBE, CAI, and tune. You can throw in an EBCS or MBC if you want for the tune. I personally like to run hybrid boost control. If you're uncomfortable with your IDC's (for a street car, I would not worry too much), you can tray a larger fuel pump... Just know that if you start getting larger than a 255, you need to look at hardwiring the fuel pump with a relay. If you do decide to get injectors, jump up to something like ID1000's and you can swap over to E85 without a problem. I'm not sure what size your fuel pump is in a newer WRX, so I would imagine going with a 255 at that point too.

FWIW, on a DynoJet at MKC, we put out 300whp/320wtq on a 2007 WRX w/ a VF39 at about 17.5 PSI. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1U2hSgtxYY




Quote:
Originally Posted by Trustkevin13 View Post
For me it's easier to say stage 3+ELH+Ewg than it would be to say, I did a Perrin TMIC, STi Fuel Pump, AEM CAI, Cobb DP, Grimmspeed EBCS, Perrin ELH, tial 38mm EWG, vf52 swap, perrin inlet tube, and nameless axleback. do you kinda get it now? You need to calm down. I also guess youmissed reading Yammy's question as to what stage 3 was as well.

http://torquedperformance.com/2014-W...t-AP14STG3.htm
And most of us would be wondering WTF.
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:15 PM   #15
jlangholzj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trustkevin13 View Post
^^^^ Well see, I'm just basing this of TorquedPerformance. I didn't build my to a "stage", I just bolted on a ton of stuff to my car. You miss the point of saying stage though. It is easier to say "Stage 2" than it is to say, I've done a tune, downpipe, and typically an intake. It also makes it easier to base what you are going to do to your car overall knowing what goes into what.
Oh I don't miss the point of saying what "stage" something is. I simply find it to be purely retarded. "stages" are not made equal. Put cams, heads, intake and exhaust on a small block ford and there's about a gagillion options right there. A well-tuned car with the correct modifications on it will often outperform a "stage" built car in many regards.

also please note that this was in no means an attack on you (nor am I pissed....everyone's so god damn twichy around here). I'm simply expressing my discontent for the general terms being thrown around out here.


Quote:
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO View Post
I was being facetious.
you're just as big of an ******* as i am...I like it

Quote:
I personally still consider that "stage 2". Anything more than that, you're just modding. You won't need colder spark plugs on the stock turbo.

Virtually any dyno you use will have some sort of smoothing.
This is true, some mechanical some post-processing. I guess the proper question would have been "what kind of smoothing" and "where". His graph does look super smooth though, like, ungodly smooth. Yours is much more realistic and also acceptable!

Quote:
If you want to make good, solid, reliable power on a smaller budget, it's pretty easy on these cars. Although you don't absolutely need a TBE to make some power, it won't hurt getting a little bit more out of it. I like quiet, so I have a Cobb and an ELH, which is extremely quiet. When I get my new motor back together, I will fix the tapered flange problem and dump the EWG back into the DP.

You don't *need* a fuel pump or injectors, nor a TMIC. Some of it goes off of preference and how much little bit you're trying to extract (safely) with what you have. Sticking to a "stage 2" term, I'd recommend at TBE, CAI, and tune. You can throw in an EBCS or MBC if you want for the tune. I personally like to run hybrid boost control. If you're uncomfortable with your IDC's (for a street car, I would not worry too much), you can tray a larger fuel pump... Just know that if you start getting larger than a 255, you need to look at hardwiring the fuel pump with a relay. If you do decide to get injectors, jump up to something like ID1000's and you can swap over to E85 without a problem. I'm not sure what size your fuel pump is in a newer WRX, so I would imagine going with a 255 at that point too.
^^ pretty much everything I've gathered. I (read my application) won't need injectors or a pump but I was simply getting at for a "stage 3" (since we're using these now) a pump and injectors would be advised.

I won't be pushing my tune anywhere to the ragged edge so I'll probably see some high IDC's but if that happens I'll scale back the power some and live with it.
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Old 03-13-2014, 06:26 PM   #16
1wrxtra
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Originally Posted by yamahaSHO View Post
A couple things:

- What is "stage 3"?
- 6 Smoothing is what's giving you low numbers, what are you including in your VD logs? I bet your graph is unrealistcally silky smooth (I can't see your picture at work)!
- You can set the VD to DynoJet to output similar numbers.

For reference, my Virtual Dyno set to DynoJet with a 2 smoothing (more info found)
Torqued Performance considers stage 3 to be:
-Stock Engine and Stock Turbocharger
-Aftermarket Downpipe
-Upgraded Aftemrarket intercooler, TMIC or FMIC is OK
-Grimmspeed 3 Port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid
-Stock or Aftermarket Cat back exhaust system.

http://torquedperformance.com/2014-W...t-AP14STG3.htm

I have:
2012 WRX
KSTech 73mm CAI
Process West TMIC
ID 1000cc Injectors + DW65c fuel pump
Grimmspeed EBCS
Grimmspeed lightweight crank pulley
Nameless Performance TBE

You are correct, using 6 smoothing lowers the numbers; I like to be conservative with my estimates. And yep, you can calibrate any dyno to say pretty much anything.

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Originally Posted by jlangholzj View Post
Basically whatever power that I get with a turboback + tune is fine with me.

So far it does have the kartboy in. Don't feel a whole lot of difference other than the throw being a bit shorter due to different pickup points and a physically shorter handle.
Good plan. Do you have the shifter bushings as well or just the shifter? The bushings would/should make a pretty big difference in feel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO View Post
I was being facetious. I personally still consider that "stage 2". Anything more than that, you're just modding. You won't need colder spark plugs on the stock turbo.


If you want to make good, solid, reliable power on a smaller budget, it's pretty easy on these cars. Although you don't absolutely need a TBE to make some power, it won't hurt getting a little bit more out of it. I like quiet, so I have a Cobb and an ELH, which is extremely quiet. When I get my new motor back together, I will fix the tapered flange problem and dump the EWG back into the DP.

You don't *need* a fuel pump or injectors, nor a TMIC. Some of it goes off of preference and how much little bit you're trying to extract (safely) with what you have. Sticking to a "stage 2" term, I'd recommend at TBE, CAI, and tune. You can throw in an EBCS or MBC if you want for the tune. I personally like to run hybrid boost control. If you're uncomfortable with your IDC's (for a street car, I would not worry too much), you can tray a larger fuel pump... Just know that if you start getting larger than a 255, you need to look at hardwiring the fuel pump with a relay. If you do decide to get injectors, jump up to something like ID1000's and you can swap over to E85 without a problem. I'm not sure what size your fuel pump is in a newer WRX, so I would imagine going with a 255 at that point too.
I was going for 'safe, reliable power'
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:54 PM   #17
yamahaSHO
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2004 S2000 - E85

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Originally Posted by 1wrxtra View Post
Torqued Performance considers stage 3 to be:
-Stock Engine and Stock Turbocharger
-Aftermarket Downpipe
-Upgraded Aftemrarket intercooler, TMIC or FMIC is OK
-Grimmspeed 3 Port Electronic Boost Control Solenoid
-Stock or Aftermarket Cat back exhaust system.

http://torquedperformance.com/2014-W...t-AP14STG3.htm

I have:
2012 WRX
KSTech 73mm CAI
Process West TMIC
ID 1000cc Injectors + DW65c fuel pump
Grimmspeed EBCS
Grimmspeed lightweight crank pulley
Nameless Performance TBE

You are correct, using 6 smoothing lowers the numbers; I like to be conservative with my estimates. And yep, you can calibrate any dyno to say pretty much anything.
It's not a realistic graph


That may be their stage 3 package, however, it's not commonplace for a "stage 3".


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1wrxtra View Post

I was going for 'safe, reliable power'
Is it a canned tune?
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Old 03-14-2014, 08:24 AM   #18
1wrxtra
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It's not a realistic graph

That may be their stage 3 package, however, it's not commonplace for a "stage 3".

Is it a canned tune?
Then I have more power than I tell people

I used that denomination as that's what Eric uses to differentiate which of his maps you are going to use as a baseline. It's totally possible "stage 3" means something different to every tuner. I'm not sure what you mean by 'canned', but it's not a one-size-fits-all tune (e.g. COBB maps), it's been slowly built on and customized for my mods over the past 2 years.

I didn't mean to start a discussion about "stages" or what mods are needed for what, I wanted to offer OP some advice from what I've personally seen with my car as his plans are/were very similar to my own when I started.

I'd be happy to continue this discussion over PM if you like, I don't want to detract from what jlangholzj is trying to do here.

I'm very much looking forward to see how this build turns out!
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:43 AM   #19
yamahaSHO
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Then I have more power than I tell people
It really just means that your graph is not representing that of a turbo Subaru.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1wrxtra View Post
I used that denomination as that's what Eric uses to differentiate which of his maps you are going to use as a baseline. It's totally possible "stage 3" means something different to every tuner. I'm not sure what you mean by 'canned', but it's not a one-size-fits-all tune (e.g. COBB maps), it's been slowly built on and customized for my mods over the past 2 years.
"Stage 3" to most tuners means zero... Tell me what you have done to the car. Torqued Performance is using it as marketing hype (as with most).

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1wrxtra View Post
I didn't mean to start a discussion about "stages" or what mods are needed for what, I wanted to offer OP some advice from what I've personally seen with my car as his plans are/were very similar to my own when I started.
We got where you're coming from with stages... We get it, but you keep coming back to them. I've tuned a lot of Subaru's and never do I ask what stage they are to determine their mods list.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1wrxtra View Post
I'd be happy to continue this discussion over PM if you like, I don't want to detract from what jlangholzj is trying to do here.

I'm very much looking forward to see how this build turns out!
PM is no fun.
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:20 AM   #20
1wrxtra
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Originally Posted by yamahaSHO View Post
It really just means that your graph is not representing that of a turbo Subaru.



"Stage 3" to most tuners means zero... Tell me what you have done to the car. Torqued Performance is using it as marketing hype (as with most).


We got where you're coming from with stages... We get it, but you keep coming back to them. I've tuned a lot of Subaru's and never do I ask what stage they are to determine their mods list.


PM is no fun.
I've listed my power-related mods in here twice already

2012 WRX
KSTech 73mm CAI
Process West TMIC
ID 1000cc Injectors + DW65c fuel pump
Grimmspeed EBCS
Grimmspeed lightweight crank pulley
Nameless Performance TBE
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Old 03-14-2014, 11:41 AM   #21
yamahaSHO
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2004 S2000 - E85

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That wasn't my point.
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Old 04-15-2014, 11:42 AM   #22
jlangholzj
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Well my fellow nebraskans, I'll be running corn. Over the last few weeks I've helped a friend of mine get his '04 STI running on corn. TGV deletes, top feed, ID1000's and a pump. Car already had an AEM CAI and turboback exhaust on it. HOLY **** THAT CAR PULLS LIKE A FREIGHT TRAIN. We worked with Eric Minehart at Torqued Performance and as expected, his reputation precedes him. Great guy, solid tune and amazing service.

So after that debacle, I've got plans for a walboro 255 and ID1000's built in now too.

Also another major change is the data logger. The AQ-1 looks like an awesome little unit and I'll be using that for my tuning/logging needs. Of course us engineers get a chubby over data so having the internal 3 axis, OBD2 capability and additional inputs/outputs will make it perfect for wiring up all my needs on the car.
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