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Old 06-06-2005, 12:35 AM   #1
pilfflip
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Salem, OR
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'02 Murdered WRX
'02 Silver Legacy

Default cv axel installation and frustration

so I got off one of the cv axels after some fighting and frustration and a couple trips to the junkyard for a few small parts, and when i get to the other cv axel, i pull out the dowel pin and pull the cv joint back and I can't get it far enough to even rotate it off.

The first axel i pulled off was a tight tight fit to pull off i had to rotate the transmission and fight with it a little but i finally came off but the second axel (passenger side) had no play what-so-ever there was at least another 1/4 to go before i could even think about having some play to remove the axel.

I know that i could pull the axel off with a cutting device of some sort but i don't want to pull of the axel and then find out that i can't get a new one on. I thought about cutting down a little bit of the outlet shaft on the transmission but i'm kind of hesitant about that at first thought.

Does anyone have any experience with this or any ideas about what to do?


~Mike
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Old 06-06-2005, 01:12 AM   #2
fastenova
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Default

DO NOT CUT ANYTHING!!!

You need to unattach the hub from the strut to get the driveaxle out. Do this:

Unstake the axle nut and remove with a socket (26 or 32mm, I don't remember which). Remove your brake caliper, pads, and bracket. Remove the brake rotor. Mark the position of the alignment bolt (top one) to the strut mount. Remove both strut-to-hub bolts (19mm). You should have enough play now to pull the hub out and slide the driveaxle out of the hub. Then just pull it straight outta the tranny and you're done!

Installation is the reversal of removal. Make sure you get that bolt aligned just right. If you're not confident about your marking skills, get an alignment done when you're all back together, as changing the orientation of that top bolt (camber bolt) just a little can throw your alignment off quite a bit. I am cocky and have done this a few times and not had a problem with alignment, but that's just 'cause I can't really afford one right now

I'd suggest getting new rollpins, and CV boots/clamps while they're off if you didn't already have that planned. Those rollpins are cheap at the dealer. Also make sure to repack the boots with LOTS of grease, you can never have too much in there. Good luck!

-Aaron
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Old 06-06-2005, 09:22 AM   #3
Legacy777
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Even if you mark the bolts holding the strut to the hub, you should really have it aligned.

You can remove the front bolt holding the A-arm to the chassis and the sway bar link bolt, and that will give you enough play to remove the axle. Plus you don't need to get an alignment afterwards.
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Old 06-06-2005, 10:35 AM   #4
maciek
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You can also remove the bottom nut under the control arm near the rotor and pop out the ball joint. Sometimes that is an easier way to get the slack needed to slide the axle out.
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Old 06-06-2005, 12:02 PM   #5
avk
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Just removing the forward pivot bolt for the control arm (and disconnecting the sway bar link from the arm) should give enough play. This is in the factory manual. When re-assembling, final tightening of the pivot and swaybar-link bolts should be done with suspension under normal load (wheels on ramps) so as not to strain the bushings.

Last edited by avk; 06-06-2005 at 08:32 PM. Reason: Forward bolt, not rear. It's been > 1.5 years since I did it.
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Old 06-07-2005, 03:02 PM   #6
pilfflip
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OKAY SO LET ME GET THIS STRAIGH, I COULD DIS-CONNECT THE A-ARM FROM 2 DIFFERENT LOCATIONS EITHER OF THEM DO NOT REQUIRE AN ALIGNMENT AFTER I FINISH THE JOB.

AN ALIGNMENT IS THE LAST THING I NEED TO PAY FOR (IM SAVING FOR AN EVO MR )

I COULD PULL THE CASTLE NUT FROM UNDERNEATH THE ROTOR OR WHERE IT WOULD BE AND PULL IT OUT ENOUGH TO GET SOME PLAY-OR I COULD DIS-CONNECT THE A-ARM FROM THE CHASSIS TO GET SOME PLAY BUT IF I DO THAT I NEED TO DO THAT WHEN THE CAR IS UNDER A NORMAL DRIVING LOAD. CORRECT?

NOW, ARE EITHER ONE OF THESE MORE DIFFICULT THAN THE OTHER? I ALSO TRIED THE FIRST OF THE TWO OPTIONS BUT I'D NEVER DONE IT BEFORE AND I WAS HESITANT, ARE THESE PRETTY TOUGH TO GET OFF? HOW DO I DO IT WITHOUT DAMAGING ANYTHING?



~MIKE
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Old 06-07-2005, 06:25 PM   #7
Legacy777
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You should only remove the A-arm from the front mount point. I suppose you could do the rear, but it'd be a hell of a lot more difficult, and may not give you the room.

Personally, I think the A-arm is easier then the castle nut/ball joint because the ball joint can really get stuck in the hub, and you might damage it when removing it from the hub. If you do, you'll have to replace it.
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:31 PM   #8
subysouth
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I usually do the castellated ball joint nut that conncts the a-arm to the ball joint.

I apply downward pressure on the arm(avoiding the ball-joint gasket) and then wack the a-arm with a hammer. Usually it only takes one or two medium hits.

ss
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