Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday July 11, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Subaru Models > Legacy Forum

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-07-2005, 07:32 PM   #1
Plays_With_toys
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 82556
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Parker, Colorado
Vehicle:
1996 Legacy L wagon

Default The ticking.... it's... it's gone!

Woohoo! $50 and 2.5 hrs later, that annoying, sounds like a diesel engine noise my 2.2 made is gone. Here's the breakdown:

$25 for Hydraulic lash adjuster (HLA) (P# 13230)
$25 for set of valve cover gaskets (both sides)

Doing this "repair" was super easy, and could probably be done for just the cost of gaskets. Also, I am a slow worker, and had to wait for the engine to cool, so I believe this could take most people about an hour from start to finish.

First, remove the valve cover on the side that is making the noise. To do the driver side, remove the windshield washer reservoir and the battery. To do the passenger side, you will have to remove the air box and some of the air intake tubing. There are 3 bolts holding the valve cover on, and they are all in a straight line across the face of the valve cover. Also remove the vacuum line that feeds into the valve cover. You can remove the spark plug wires, but afterwards, I didn't feel that that step helped all that much. If the valve cover doesn't come off, don't pry it off, take a small piece of wood and a hammer and gently tap near an edge.

Next, remove the vacuum line from the other valve cover (unless you've taken both off). Rotate the crankshaft (car has to be in neutral), its the big nut in the center of the pulley in the center/front of the motor. Rotate this clock wise. You will see the lifters start to move. You want to feel just a little slack in each of the rocker arms.

Next, loosen the bolts of the rocker assembly evenly starting from the inside and working out. There are four bolts in the middle, and 2 on each extreme end of the rocker assembly. They all go straight into the engine block. There are two angled bolts, do not remove these. Once you have removed the bolts, pull the rocker assembly out horizontally (there are guides for the number 1 and 3 bolts) keeping the top of the rocker assembly always at the top, even in storage.

Next, find the collapsed HLA. This is really easy. At the end of the rocker arms are little nipples, squeeze this nipple in towards where it is seated in the rocker arm. If it does not move, it is filled. If the nipple compresses, it is collapsed. Use a small flat head screw driver and gently pull it out. (Mine came out very easily).

Next take a 12mm socket and place it over the end opposite the large nipple. You will see a tiny pin hole with a ball in it (like a ball point pen). Fill the 12mm sock with oil, then depress this ball using a paper clip or safety pin (something small and hard). When you depress the ball push down on the HLA so the nipple compresses. Air bubbles should come up through the oil, then release the nipple. A vacuum will suck the oil from the 12mm socket into the HLA. Now test to see if the nipple compresses. If it still compresses even a little, then repeat the process until the unit is nice and solid.

Next insert the HLA into the rocker arm using your fingers, be nice and gentle so you don't wreck the o-ring. You can buy the o-rings seperately, and might be a good idea to use a new o-ring when doing this, but mine didn't appear damaged when I removed my old HLA. (The only reason I used the new one was the instructions I had didn't say to compress the nipple, so I thought my old one was defective when it didn't take in any oil, then I got the new one to fill after a few failed attempts and it was unreturnable at that point)

Now its time to reassemble. The bolt order to attach the rocker assembly is as follows:


1---5-7---3
-4--8-6--2-

First, tighten down 1-4 until the rocker assembly is seated against the head. Next, tighten 5-8 to 96-106 in/lbs. Then Tighten 1-4 to the same specification.

Using new gaskets for the valve cover and valve cover bolts reattach the valve cover and install the battery/washer reservoir or airbox assembly. *Don't forget both the vacuum lines you removed. For a better seal on the valve cover gaskets, I rubbed oil along all the gaskets before installing them to get a better seal.

Start the engine and check for oil leaks. And you're done!

I hope this helps anyone that might be experiencing this problem and I hope this write up is clear enough. It isn't hard to do, I just wish I had known how to fill the HLA before I started.

Now for purposes of searching, I'm just gonna add some words:

tick ticking noise clack clacking hydraulic lash adjuster valve valves HLA 2.2 liter 1996
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Plays_With_toys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2005, 04:30 PM   #2
abosworth
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 53856
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: NoVerm Brah......
Vehicle:
2012 Speed3
Red Mica

Default

Nice write up. I didn't think it was that easy. But i have never done it either
abosworth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2005, 07:49 AM   #3
Teh Legacy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9853
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Never miss an opportunity
Vehicle:
to keep your mouth
shut.

Default

Which ticking is this? The one upon a cold startup?
Teh Legacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2005, 06:57 PM   #4
sha_zapple
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 41012
Join Date: Aug 2003
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy L

Default

Could you do this from underneath the car?
sha_zapple is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2005, 07:04 PM   #5
suby2low
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 82633
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Claremont, nh
Vehicle:
'08 WRX STI
Silver

Default

nice write up. very impressive thourough.
suby2low is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2005, 12:32 PM   #6
Teh Legacy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9853
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Never miss an opportunity
Vehicle:
to keep your mouth
shut.

Default

Which ticking is this? Did it happen only while the engine was cold? Mine has a terrible "diesel" sounding tick when it's cold. Any help? Don't mean to hijack...
Teh Legacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2005, 04:18 PM   #7
Plays_With_toys
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 82556
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Parker, Colorado
Vehicle:
1996 Legacy L wagon

Default

Sorry, been spending all my time at SLi since this place was not getting anybody coming through.

The ticking is the ticking noise many people experience with the engine cold, however, mine was persistent no matter the temperature of the engine. It came in for a few days and then would leave. But the last time it came in, it stayed for a month, so I went ahead and fixed it. The only downside? Now I can hear a very very light tick in the passenger side. I'll save that for another day though. From what I've read the cold engine noise should go away, and I have no idea what the cause for that is.

Shazapple, I would recommend coming in from the top. There is that cross member that goes under the motor, so reaching the bolts would be quite difficult. I don't really see a necessity to do it from underneath either, considering pulling the rocker assembly out, it'd be easier to pull it out and up, instead of trying to squeeze it past the fender/motor and risk dropping it.
Plays_With_toys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2006, 09:33 PM   #8
Dodik
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 122609
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Brooklyn NY
Vehicle:
2002 Outback H6 BE
82 GS750E

Default Ej25

Hey guys I know this is kind off subject but does anyone has ever fixed same problem on EJ 25??
Dodik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2006, 10:48 PM   #9
12Voltking
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 108906
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Duluth WI
Vehicle:
99 OB
white over gray

Default

Dodik, this will fix the same issue on the 25.

Another reason the engine does this, particuarly on older motors is that the O-Rings inside the oil pump harden and flatten up allowing air into the oil...Subaru released a kit to replace the O-Rings that solved this issue.
12Voltking is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2006, 11:58 PM   #10
Radeon
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 105251
Join Date: Jan 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Vehicle:
13 BRZ,STI

Default

Hm, there are 2.5 with HLAs? That's news to me...
On 2.5 one just has to adjust valve clearances once every 100k.
Radeon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2006, 01:52 AM   #11
fobzy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 123638
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Australia
Vehicle:
06 vf34 wrx

Default

lol if thats easy i dont wanna see what hard is...
fobzy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2006, 02:29 AM   #12
Plays_With_toys
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 82556
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Parker, Colorado
Vehicle:
1996 Legacy L wagon

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radeon
Hm, there are 2.5 with HLAs? That's news to me...
On 2.5 one just has to adjust valve clearances once every 100k.
Yeah, the 2.5's also make a ticking noise, but to my knowledge they use spacers for lash adjustment. Post 1996 2.2's also stopped using HLA's. The ticking in other motors is related caused by something else, though somewhere in that area I am sure.
Plays_With_toys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2006, 02:38 AM   #13
Outback Jack
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 120999
Join Date: Jul 2006
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radeon
Hm, there are 2.5 with HLAs? That's news to me...
On 2.5 one just has to adjust valve clearances once every 100k.
1996 EJ25 had HLAs, and the rest had solid lifters.
Outback Jack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2006, 08:53 AM   #14
Dodik
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 122609
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Brooklyn NY
Vehicle:
2002 Outback H6 BE
82 GS750E

Default

ok this may sound like vodoo but it happened as far as i know one of my lifters was knocking after my mechanic broke one of the headbolts while changing gaskets. so he put a little bigger diameter bolt. the lifter knocked at either hot or cold. but then one day i was going to work and this guy tells me at red light that he can fix this problem within 5 minutes with a magnet. and it did go away kind of. when the car is hot and i add lucas oil stabilizer its silent but when its cold it still knocks. I am not sure what is wrong exactly wrong with the lifters and im not a mechanic, and i dont think im going to fix this problem completely without spending a fortune. so im just gonna pray that car goes for another 30k to get to 300k and then it may rest in peace. but magnet thing kind of works.
Dodik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2006, 10:59 AM   #15
KD7000
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16653
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Central MA
Vehicle:
2012 Mazda 3
2004 Honda Pilot

Your NASIOC Administrator

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodik View Post
this guy tells me at red light that he can fix this problem within 5 minutes with a magnet.
Did he slaughter a chicken and chant some weird spell, too?
KD7000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2006, 11:09 AM   #16
Plays_With_toys
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 82556
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Parker, Colorado
Vehicle:
1996 Legacy L wagon

Default

I don't know how a magnet would do it... Do you just keep the magnet permanently attached to the valve cover? I'd feel weary of having a magnet on my motor with all those moving parts. Even a neodymium magnet could dislodge some how.

Like I said, it's super easy to do this. You could have your feed line to the HLA's clogged up. Put some seafoam into your oil about 5-600 miles before your next oil change. Remember not to over fill, because you're adding fluid to your oil, and you wouldn't want to blow any seals. Seafoam will clean your oil components like crazy.
Plays_With_toys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2006, 11:46 AM   #17
janikphoto
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 10471
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Dallas, TX
Vehicle:
2000 BMW Z3
sold Outback & ForesterXT

Default

my 1986 mazda pickup used to sound like a deisel engine (though it was unleaded gas). It had a ticking you wouldn't believe!!!
janikphoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2006, 08:47 PM   #18
Sneeky Pete
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 97745
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicago-Subs
Vehicle:
2005 OBXT 5spd red
05 OB Lmited Black

Default

They were solid lift intell 97...97 is the first year of the HLA in the ej25's
Sneeky Pete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2006, 11:12 PM   #19
Wiscon_Mark
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 94945
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Stevens Point, WI
Vehicle:
1995 Legacy OB 5MT
2003 Forester X 5MT

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneeky Pete View Post
They were solid lift intell 97...97 is the first year of the HLA in the ej25's
Other way around. Completely backwards. '97 was the first year of solid lifters. Less friction overall, but need adjusting every 100k or so.
Wiscon_Mark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2006, 09:30 AM   #20
Dodik
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 122609
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Brooklyn NY
Vehicle:
2002 Outback H6 BE
82 GS750E

Default

no the magnet is not attached to anything he used an adjustable magnet to pull lifters or push i dont really know what he did cause i was inside the car starting and shutting it off. i dont think seafoam will do much for me i think i probably going to need new block with new heads to fix the all other problems as well. and another reason for knocking is i was cheap and bought gaskets off internet instead of dealership and they are little bit thinner and i think that kind of infuences the ticking, and probably a different diameter headbolt add something to all this.

I will though try to get one of the guys in my unit to explain to me a little more about how lifters work and maybe ill be able to fix it in spring when it gets warmer.

Last edited by Dodik; 12-05-2006 at 09:36 AM.
Dodik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2006, 03:33 PM   #21
Sneeky Pete
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 97745
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicago-Subs
Vehicle:
2005 OBXT 5spd red
05 OB Lmited Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiscon_Mark View Post
Other way around. Completely backwards. '97 was the first year of solid lifters. Less friction overall, but need adjusting every 100k or so.

Mybad.....misread a bit....I stand corrected
Sneeky Pete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-17-2006, 10:25 AM   #22
88rxn/a
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 135140
Join Date: Dec 2006
Default

posting for future reference
88rxn/a is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2007, 08:57 PM   #23
vwdee
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 138978
Join Date: Jan 2007
Default Valve covers

What are the specs for the torque on the valve cover bolts?
vwdee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2007, 09:40 PM   #24
rougeben83
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 115154
Join Date: May 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: NYC
Vehicle:
2003 Legacy L Turbo
silver

Default

is that for a dohc or sohc motor? I may need to delve in there with the valvecover gaskets ~_~
rougeben83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2007, 01:28 AM   #25
Plays_With_toys
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 82556
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Parker, Colorado
Vehicle:
1996 Legacy L wagon

Default

The write up is for 90-96 SOHC motors.
Plays_With_toys is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
It's crazy to think about that one day the Earth will be gone, totally. brucelee Off-Topic 111 08-15-2007 07:43 PM
WELL she is gone.......the STI that is.....GONE as in not in the garage gone..*tears* RaceComp Engineering Mid Atlantic Impreza Club -- MAIC 49 02-18-2007 03:57 PM
Thanks pleiades! The ticking is gone! Opie South East Region Forum 8 12-15-2003 02:32 PM
It's finally gone metoo Texas Impreza Club Forum -- TXIC 1 04-16-2001 07:57 AM
The snow dance worked so well...it's all gone :( Aaron'z 2.5RS General Forum Archive 3 11-27-2000 09:15 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.