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Old 10-07-2005, 04:23 PM   #76
STI4ME
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I'm glad to see someone is carrying through with the 0823 bearing. Please post up pics if possible.
As for grease, you definitely want to pack some high quality grease. The grease that comes with the bearing is not all that great. I personally went with Redline CV-2.
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Old 10-08-2005, 07:23 AM   #77
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Ok, the other tread about sealed bearings is about rear bearings. Subaru finally went to a low pressure replacement procedure and has eliminated the need to worry about grease and how much of it to pack and what kind. The fronts are still " to be discussed'
I can't paste the tread, because I'm on mozilla right now.

The grease mentioned in the sister tread to thisone is the "GDBE type". Anybody know what that means?
This is what Subaru is packing into their performance Sti hub.

Last edited by Vlad; 10-08-2005 at 07:36 AM.
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Old 10-08-2005, 09:54 AM   #78
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Got a set of seals from Subaru. The 2 are different and one has an outer lip, as mentioned.both come preloaded with grease, the one with outer lip is loaded big times. They were not that expensive, $21 for the set.
the normal one has as marks UE0968E
The otherone has a bunch of groups of 2-3 letters The brand is probably Acs for the one with lip and it's like : D12 SD4 56 72.3 8-2 NS.

As far as grease, it seems all tubes of grease are marked, just like oil. I think everyone wants to be multi-purpose, so they can sell most grease. The grease I happen to have at home is a Valvoline GC-LB. I'm going to check out Autozone and let you know what they have.

Last edited by Vlad; 10-08-2005 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 10-08-2005, 10:47 AM   #79
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GDBE type refers to the car model desigination- GD- new age sedan, B STi, E revision E

I've heard of folks using Redline and NEO for high temp bearing grease, Gary S used some really expensive stuff for his USTCC car- can't remember what it was called, but it was very expensive.
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Old 10-08-2005, 03:02 PM   #80
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So, uh, the seals are supposed to be loaded with grease, huh? My non-Subaru ones (acquired at NAPA) were not. I gave them a light coating of grease, but didn't "load" them with it. Perhaps I've doomed myself to repeating this repair sooner than I should have to?

Probably a useful bit of information to put in the "how to" that started this whole thread. I would never have known to load the seals with grease without seeing Vlad's post.

Pat
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Old 10-08-2005, 11:33 PM   #81
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anyone in socal know which place to get the bearings done? perhaps, i'll go back to suby specialties for this service. hmm.. it certainly doesnt' look like a DIY project.
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Old 10-08-2005, 11:52 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hey1
it certainly doesnt' look like a DIY project.
Ummmm... isn't the whole point of this thread how to DIY?

If you don't have access to a press, just do all the work yourself and bring it to a shop to have them press the bearings into the knuckle and the hub into the bearings. Shouldn't cost much to have that done, so you'll save lots of $$$.

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Old 10-09-2005, 08:25 AM   #83
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The two seals have grease in the grooves that sit on the inner shaft. The one with the lip, the lip is in a funnel shape. It carries grease in the part of the funnel that sits on the inner shaft.
The grease looks white-transparent.
I'm not even 100% sure if I need to have my bearings replaced. But this noise started right around 70K miles, right after I left the track after a track day, and it's similar to a tire rumble, only a bit louder and can be heard inside with the windows up.
It doesn't seem to go away with changing direction, but seems to do so with the mild up-down moves the suspension does on a normal road. It becomes noticeable around 60MPH, gets a bit louder around 80 and that's that. I have Pirelli P8000 Vizzola that are kinda on their last leg (stock rims).
I was even thinking it might be an alignment-wrong rumble, got an alignment done when converting to Sti A-Arm bushings but somehow it didn't change.

Sooner or later Subaru is going to change the front hub to the same thing as the rear, where they either sell the sub-assembly, and it becomes a true DYI, or change design to a low press-force, for instance the bearing comes already with the spindle and you set it in the hub by using the nut of the axle.
Under my opinion, a hydraulic press is a big unknown as far as the results of the pressing process. If there is less than perfect concentricity of the press ram and the axis of the bearing, etc.. something could be affected. This should be done in a controlled environment by subaru, with the right centering devices.
The packing seems to be important and the grease too. So then Subaru should do the same as with the rear bearings, sell sealed bearings and pack the right grease in the right ammount. I was reading that 30% is for high speed applications and 80% is for high forces applications such as agricultural.
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Old 10-09-2005, 08:43 AM   #84
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I had some time so took the digital caliper to the lipped seal: Outer diameter 72.3 mm, inner diameter 56 mm, width 8 mm.
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Old 10-17-2005, 06:29 PM   #85
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Just got the bearings. Full model # on the box:
NTN 4T-CR1-0823CS113#01[J100]
They seem to be pre-packed with grease. I will have to find out if this is the service grease or has to be replaced. The one thing I find kinda odd, is that the center piece travels side-to-side almost 5mm. This could be normal, I wonder if anybody could confirm about the stock replacements.
Since I am not 100% sure I need to replace the bearings, and it seems that the driveshaft bearing does not hum, but clicks when it goes, I'm not going to install these right away. I am going to try to ask someone that has experience with WRX bearing noises to help me diagnose this properly.
If anybody from Long Island, NY is reading, had the bearing noises and wants to help, that would be great.
Vlad

Last edited by Vlad; 10-17-2005 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 10-17-2005, 06:35 PM   #86
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Hello,

I would suggest repacking them with good grease. Even if it's okay grease, good grease is better. You don't need Krytox. Just get the Redline CV2 or something like that. It is great grease and not too expensive.

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Old 10-17-2005, 06:38 PM   #87
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great write up, thanks for the extra work.
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Old 10-18-2005, 09:02 PM   #88
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Ok, I have 2 x10 second Avi files in which you can clearly hear the noise i have. Anybody wants to help me diagnose this?
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Old 11-03-2005, 07:45 PM   #89
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bump because this is a good thread.
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Old 11-04-2005, 11:34 AM   #90
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Hey guys - Timken lists a front bearing also. Part number is 517008. Their site does not have load ratings though. Let me see if I can email them and find out.

As for the grease - HP800 is the highest heat rated stuff I could find. Too bad mine hasn't shipped, and I plan on doing my bearings this weekend. I guess I'll just use the best grease I can find locally, and do the HP800 in a couple of years when these die again.
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Old 11-04-2005, 01:43 PM   #91
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make this post a suspension sticky!
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Old 11-04-2005, 04:16 PM   #92
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My car sounds like it could be front diff noise. So I did a 3 tooth adjustment from fully closed backlash, on the adjustment collars of the axle stubs on the gearbox outer housing. Can be done in 10 minutes. Effect was so-so though, noise is still present.
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Old 11-04-2005, 10:31 PM   #93
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My car sounds like the hub is on a lathe.

...oh wait... it is...
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Old 02-11-2006, 05:24 PM   #94
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how tight do i torque the axle nut back down?
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Old 02-11-2006, 06:38 PM   #95
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137 ft lbs, make sure you tap the nut down into the notch firmly when torqued correctly
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Old 02-11-2006, 06:54 PM   #96
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thanks. as for re-packing the bearings w/ new grease instead of the subaru grease, what grease suggested?

will the lucas red and tacky used in original post for CV joints do as well in the bearings? or is a different type of compound recommended?
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Old 02-11-2006, 07:22 PM   #97
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For high temp- I think both Redline and NEO get good reviews.
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Old 02-11-2006, 07:45 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX
For high temp- I think both Redline and NEO get good reviews.
I gotta say Neo on this one. Don't order from HRP world because it will take them 2 months to get it to you (and they will tell you "next week" the whole time). You could try and get it from Bakerprecision, but they never answer their phone.

If you're near cincy come on by and I'll give you enough to do the job.
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Old 02-11-2006, 07:45 PM   #99
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http://www.paragon-products.com/product_p/rlcv2.htm

that the redline you're talking about?

"Although Red Line CV-2 is compatible with small amounts of many petroleum-based greases, it is always good lubrication practice to thoroughly clean out the old grease to eliminate abrasive particles and to minimize the possibility of grease incompatibility."

does this mean i need to actually disassemble the bearings to clean them out? how would i fully clean out a bearing of this kind, its not like a conical bearing where you can actually touch the rollers w/o taking it apart.

nobody around here carries NEO, so it'd have to be ordered.

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/wheelbrg.htm

that looks to be the grease, i presume? "neo wheel bearing grease."

i already have the red and tacky in anticipation for this install. just was wonder if i could use the same thing.

also nowhere near cinci. wouldn't mind making the drive but i don't think my bearings/hubs are up to the task
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Old 02-22-2006, 05:16 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UCD-WRX
Hey MustangKilla,

You can do that. Lots of grease is hard to clean, so you have to supplement that with brake clean and paper towels. You wipe everything clean until everything is shiny new metal. Then you can use your hands to pack redline into the bearing. I probably use more than necessary, because I'm constantly having to wipe everything clean from the excess being squeezed out (as I assemble the bearing, not as I install it). It's pretty obvious and self explanatory once you have the bearing in your hands.

Subaru OE grease may be a packing grease and should be replaced before installation...

UCD-WRX
Shameless plug for my coilover poll: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=819418
So I imagine the bearing has to be taken apart prior to packing? The assembled bearing for my 2.5RS doesn't leave much room for grease to go into. How do I disassemble it?
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