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Old 03-23-2007, 11:01 AM   #276
BIGSKYWRX
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I'd say if the CV's aren't acting up leave them alone.

Yeah those are inexpensive bearings
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Old 03-23-2007, 11:53 AM   #277
kainam00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illmatic View Post
My front wheel bearings are done @ 102K miles. So far I am going to order new hubs, inner/outer seals, bearings and axle nuts. I just scored a brand new bearing, hub, and seals for $105 shipped from ebay. Do you think I should replace the CV boots for preventative maintanance?

These bearings seem too cheap to be true. I am going all oem subaru.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WHEEL...spagenameZWDVW
Those definitely don't look like OEM parts. The parts themselves look about right though... but the OEM Subaru bearing is around $60-80... so I'm thinking something has to be wrong here. Someone else, chime in on this, if these bearings are as good as OEM, that would be awesome.
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:03 PM   #278
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they show Koyo bearings here for the older Imprezas, but are $70 a pop

http://www.drivewire.com/subaruparts...ndbearing.html
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:13 PM   #279
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I'm with Biggie, there's no need to replace the CVs unless there's indication that they're bad (which in my experience normally means there's grease all over the place. )

As for the Ebay bearings, it's too bad the pictures were taken with a camera that apparently doesn't have a "focus" feature. If one could read the part numbers on the bearings you could figure out if they're good parts or not.

Pat
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:12 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illmatic View Post
My front wheel bearings are done @ 102K miles. So far I am going to order new hubs, inner/outer seals, bearings and axle nuts. I just scored a brand new bearing, hub, and seals for $105 shipped from ebay. Do you think I should replace the CV boots for preventative maintanance?

These bearings seem too cheap to be true. I am going all oem subaru.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WHEEL...spagenameZWDVW
I would leave the CV's alone as well. Rebuilt axles are about $65 at Napa and are pretty easy to change. See my write-up here http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6847
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Old 04-29-2007, 11:32 AM   #281
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started replacing rear bearing on forester yesterday. used pvc pipe to pull bearing but a portion of the race natrally stayed with the hub. As it was Sat. and most machine shops were closed I had few options. I went to a shop I that advertised as specialitsts in axle/cv repairs- Big mistake. They cut the bearing race off with a wizzer cut off wheel and scored a spiraling gouge in the hub portion that presses into the bearing. This is why I use the dealer or myself for repairs.
My problem is- in my distress over the now damaged hub (which I'm sure now needs to be replaced) I did not ask him the orientation of the seal which came off with the race. The outer seal is shaped like a flat bottom U. Which direction should the open portion of the U face. either toward the car center or away?
also When I do the other side I think I will remove the entire rear knuckle since I need to go to a real machine shop anyway. Does the car need to be aligned if I remove the knuckle? That was my main reason for the PVC press tool which worked well.
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Old 04-29-2007, 11:48 AM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DubareX View Post
2 tie rod ends 114.11
2 lower ball joints 83.87
nom i just need to go get the car aligned.
Yeap -- so + >=70$ to add to the sum. And better sooner than later I guess if you didn't do any (ie manual with a laser pointer or a thread) alignment after tie rods change. I've done alignment with a thread on my previous nissan -- it was close to perfect ;-)
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Old 04-29-2007, 01:10 PM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freakboy2 View Post
. Does the car need to be aligned if I remove the knuckle?
Most definitely.

If the pvc pipe is working well, why not get a bearing seperator and a small press?
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Old 04-29-2007, 03:16 PM   #284
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OK I will stick with the PVC puller then. Any takers on the seal question? which way does the outer (hub seal go) convex in or out?

tip: I tried to use old race to install the new seal on the inside but it would not work. I found the diameter of 2" PVC schedule 4 pipe to be perfect and cut a peice 10" long to get me out of the way of lateral link and worked perfect.
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:56 AM   #285
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I honestly don't remember, but here is a picture I found of my race (00 2.5RS rear pass side) being stuck on the hub with the seal still on there, and it looks like the open part is facing up (or towards the inside of the car). It looks the same way in the factory manual as well.
PIC:
http://rs.pmgz.net/wp-content/images/IMG_4565.jpg

BIGSKYWRX - why would he need an alignment afterwards? I think the only thing that's adjustable in the rear is toe in, and if you don't touch the adjusting bolts at the top of the links, it shouldn't get messed up.
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:31 AM   #286
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If you take the knuckle off I can just about guarantee your toe will be off- even though your not touching the inner eccentric bolt- I think it's due to everything being under tension. I removed my rear knuckles (to do the FHI two pots), didn't align it and paid the price- fortunately the tires were getting close to going. My toe was significantly off
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:47 PM   #287
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Good news/bad news. went to the shop that destroyed my hub and found the seal on the bench. It goes with the flat part of the seal to the outside of the car. Pressed in the 120$ hub and put the lateral link/ cv shaft back.
Bad news is it does not feel smooth. When spun It feels as if it is "clicking". I don't think I damaged the bearing at all but who knows. I pulled the wheel off the other side and it feels the same. I suspect the rear end or the cv joints at this point. I was sure the original groaning was a bearing and this site and the subie dealer agreed with me.
2 new front cv's, 2 new ball joints, 1 wheel bearing etc... I'm seriously doubting my decision to fix this thing. For those of you who live where they use a LOT of road salt you had better have an impact wrench, and acetylene torch or foget these type of repairs.
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:09 PM   #288
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Hello, I just started to replace my bearing. I managed to loosen the lateral link nut on the end of the bolt and remove it. But the bolt is not coming out - it just spins. Can somebody please tell me how to remove this long bolt?

Thank you so much
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:22 PM   #289
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From http://rs.pmgz.net
Quote:
The lateral link bolt is not coming out!
NASIOC:: Lateral Link Bolt
Apply lots of PB Blaster, whack it with a hammer, sledge hammer, and give it all kinds of abuse. It won’t come out right away, it took me a good hour of almost non-stop burn/hit/burn/hit/pry/…etc. It will eventually come out, if it doesn’t - cut it.

The devil:

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Old 05-02-2007, 09:29 PM   #290
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I used acetelyne torch to heat the nut and remove. Then I melted the bushings enough to get it sliding 1 direction about 1". Then I cut that 1" off (like picture above) and drove it back the opposite way. Now with only 1 bushing to deal with I went back to torch and softend up the bushing again and spun it with vise grips hitting and pulling as needed. Pried out the melted bushings with screw driver after that and clealed up with sand paper for new bushings.
I found this part to be easier than expected despite the amount of corrosion, took about 30 min. The key was the torch. I think mapp gas would work well for melting the bushings, but probably would not remove nut. make sure you have fire ext. or hose, squirt bottle handy to put out the flames. Be sure to pull a Bill Clinton and don''t INhale.
I did think about letting the fire consume the car at one point The dealer said they tag team the thing 1 guy with an impact wrench the other with hammer and punch on the other side driving toward wrench. They can usually save the 25$ bolt and 60$ bushings this way but I don't think It would have worked on my corroded car.

Last edited by freakboy2; 05-02-2007 at 09:38 PM.
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Old 05-02-2007, 09:56 PM   #291
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I did manage to get the bolt out by hitting it hard with a heavy hammer on the end where the nut goes. Twisting the other end back & forth with a wrench loosend it enough to slide out. Pentrating oil also helped tremendously. You have to expect to destroy the bolt when you resort to this. THANKS for the help guys!

Now I have a big problem removing the rear axle
I've been whacking it hard with a mallet...nothing.
I've been hitting the back of the knee to try to budge it .....nothing.
I've been pushing it with LOTS of pressure with an axle pusher that bolts onto the hub.....nothing. I am at the point where either the axle pusher or the lugs will rip apart with all the force I am generating with a 3ft breaker bar.

This thing has not moved a 1/1000 of an inch! It must somehow be seized or rusted in there from the salt in winter.

How can I remove the rear axle??? Please HELP.

Thank you.
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Old 05-04-2007, 08:13 PM   #292
yosemitemtb
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Can we assume you're soaking it with PB Blaster?
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Old 05-06-2007, 07:15 PM   #293
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Yes we soaked it. I used a blow torch to heat the axle for a few minutes. Let it cool and rented a HEAVY DUTY axle pusher. I cranked the hell out of it with the breaker bar and it finally came loose and it was a struggle to push it out of the hub veeeeery slowly.
I used a slide hammer to push out the hub with a few hard whacks.
I then made that home-made PVC pusher and it worked amazingly well. You need a very thick block of wood (about 5" or so) to put in front of it and some large diameter washers (3") so you can crank the threaded rod. Also washers on the other end in contact with the bearing. It took an insane amount of force with the breaker bar (I had to stand my weight on it) to push the bearing out. I thought that the PVC pipe would snap - but now way!! That PVC pipe can withstand thousands of pounds of force. But that block of wood better be thick and strong cause the PVC pipe will dig right in it. I didn't need to remove the knee at all - YES!
And when you push in the new bearing into the knee, use the old bearing housing to push it in with the PVC pusher. It went in with very little force.

Last edited by victor1; 05-06-2007 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 05-07-2007, 10:05 AM   #294
kainam00
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^ I agree. You have to use a huge piece of wood, the tool will shred 2x4's like nothing. I had to use a big block of pressure treated lumber we had left from building the deck.

Glad it worked out for you!
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:25 PM   #295
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I did my other wheel bearing shortly after my last post and was pleased to find the grease completely black upon disassembly , cause I knew I now had the one that was going bad. Huge TIP, FREEZE YOUR BEARING, I also used a hair dryer on the hub and it went in much easier. The bearing was still plenty tight, but It required much less force to press back in. I think this may reduce the risk of damage to the new bearing by applying huge lateral force. Also, I could not find a machine shop that could press the bearing race off the hub. I trusted the shop because I could tell they did quality work from taking a look around. Apparently their method is to make a cut just in the race and wack it with a hammer. came off with no damage (unlike the first auto shop I went to).
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:20 AM   #296
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This may seem like a silly question. Because it's a tapered bearing. Does it matter which way the taper faces?
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Old 06-08-2007, 10:37 AM   #297
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Nope its a dual row tapered bearing.... looks like the diagram below:

Code:
| //| A |\\ |
|// | X | \\|
|\\ | E | //|
| \\| L |// |
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Old 06-26-2007, 01:47 PM   #298
hakira
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the bearing that sits on the hub with the plastic outer race, does that come with the main hub bearing (28016AA011NT) ?

looking on subaruparts.com i can't tell where it is. Or does it come with the hub?

Thanks in advance

edit : nvm i realized that, that is part of the bearing that just got pulled out with the hub.

Last edited by hakira; 06-26-2007 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 07-08-2007, 03:40 PM   #299
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There are some extra steps shown in the initial post that can be avoided.

Put your new bearing in the freezer overnight and your hub assmembly in your gas grill for a short bit. With a couple smacks of a hammer, you're good to go.
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Old 07-10-2007, 10:57 AM   #300
LyveWRX
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Hopefully when you hit it with the hammer you dont hit the inner race, and getting the hub into the bearing must be a pain.
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