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Old 06-15-2005, 06:41 PM   #26
LyveWRX
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AWESOME!

I'll see what kind of quotes I get back on machining the tools after its B/p'd. I may have to lathe them up on the weekends my self. (Which means teaching myself how to use a lathe.) Seeing as how I'll likely need new bearings before summer is out I'll definately work quick.
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Old 06-15-2005, 07:55 PM   #27
Coaster
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Default I vote sticky too.

Make it sticky
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Old 06-16-2005, 11:34 AM   #28
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Wow, that was pretty awesome. You've got some pretty frackin' diesel macro settings on that camera too. Thumbs up on the snap-on open end. =)
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Old 06-20-2005, 11:41 AM   #29
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Awesome writeup. Thanks for taking the time to put it together. I have to replace both rear bearings very soon, and this will help a lot.
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Old 06-20-2005, 01:19 PM   #30
Siper2
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Thumbs up

Good lord, that was nice. Thank you!!!



Others may have done so already (haven't looked at the whole thread), but I sent Peaty an Email about this, for a nomination for Scoobymods.


Needless to say: ---------> *subscribe*

=Chris
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Old 06-25-2005, 12:25 PM   #31
Charlie-III
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Very good writeup, you sir, get a gold star for it.

I have 140K on my bearings, still OK (kiss of death now.)

When I pop in new bearings, I preheat the knuckle in an oven to ~250 F for ~20-30 mintues (make sure windows are open and grease/oil is off so it dosen't smoke).

I grows the bearing pocket enough to make it go easy.
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Old 07-22-2005, 11:44 AM   #32
chrislehr
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Awesome WRITE UP!!

Thank you!

The only thing I would LOVE to see you add is part numbers for the parts you ordered!

(seriously, please post.. I bought the bearing but nothing else )
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Old 07-22-2005, 12:58 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrislehr
(seriously, please post.. I bought the bearing but nothing else )
Good place to view diagrams, etc - www.subaruparts.com

8016AA011NT - Bearing Assembly
28015AA070 - Oil Seal (Outer)
28015AA080 - Oil Seal (Inner)
28035AA010 - Snap Ring
28044AA000 - Axle Nut
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Old 07-22-2005, 01:40 PM   #34
slickvic
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excellent write, been wanting to do this myself. Thank you very much.
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Old 07-22-2005, 02:41 PM   #35
Student Driver
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Subscribe...
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Old 07-31-2005, 10:59 AM   #36
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I'd like to see a write up on how to disasemble a bearing and repack it with grease (planning to use Red Line)- I imagine you can just soak it in mineral spirits and then just use a bearing packer, or pack by hand.

Last edited by MK19_; 08-10-2005 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 08-10-2005, 08:00 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangKilla
I'd like to see a write up on how to disasemble a bearing and repack it with grease (planning to use Red Line)- I imagine you can just soak it in mineral spirits and then just use a bearing packer, or pack by hand.
Anyone?
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Old 08-12-2005, 01:54 PM   #38
STI4ME
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Yesterday, at 51,xxx miles, the driver's side front wheel bearing is dying a slow clickity clickity death. Went home from work and lifted the front end and did the 12/6 o'clock push-pull test, and there it was. A little play. Car went thru 3 seasons of auto-x, one trackday event, and the usual spirited driving.
So, yes, to those that are wondering, the bearings can die at relatively low miles.
Hopefully "SI Cover Gal" SubiGal can get my orders thru soon.
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Old 08-12-2005, 03:54 PM   #39
UCD-WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangKilla
I'd like to see a write up on how to disasemble a bearing and repack it with grease (planning to use Red Line)- I imagine you can just soak it in mineral spirits and then just use a bearing packer, or pack by hand.
Hey MustangKilla,

You can do that. Lots of grease is hard to clean, so you have to supplement that with brake clean and paper towels. You wipe everything clean until everything is shiny new metal. Then you can use your hands to pack redline into the bearing. I probably use more than necessary, because I'm constantly having to wipe everything clean from the excess being squeezed out (as I assemble the bearing, not as I install it). It's pretty obvious and self explanatory once you have the bearing in your hands.

Subaru OE grease may be a packing grease and should be replaced before installation...

UCD-WRX
Shameless plug for my coilover poll: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=819418
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Old 08-12-2005, 07:25 PM   #40
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unbelieveably nice writeup!

+1 for sticky
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Old 08-15-2005, 08:21 PM   #41
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outstandingly awesome write-up. quick question though, if you don't mind -- what kind of press are you using?

i need to do this very thing to my wrx soon-ish, and the only thing i don't have (or have access to) is a press. i saw a couple manual arbor presses on harbor freight and northern tool -- a 2-ton press for like $100 or so seemed to be the best choice, and should be able to provide enough force, but will it be big enough to actually fit the part in there?

also -- how different is the process for the rear wheels?

thanks!
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Old 08-16-2005, 02:34 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dano
what kind of press are you using?

also -- how different is the process for the rear wheels?
The press was a beat up old press in a friends old garage. If not mistaken it was a 2 ton with a manual jack. The one from Harbor Freight should work like a dandy.

As for the rear wheels, I don't know to be honest and maybe someone else can chime in. I have taken the rear suspension/wheels off enough times to guess that it is very similiar if not exact.

Guru

P.S. Dealers haven't had bearings in stock here LyveWRX. I've been wanting to get you the dimensions for the ring/pusher set you wanted to make up. Anyway, I'll check into it again and if I get them I'll post and PM you about it.
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Old 08-17-2005, 02:11 AM   #43
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Guru

I'm in the midst of doing my bearings. Just a few observations:

1. unless I'm looking at the pictures wrong, under step 6 & 7 (assembly and disassembly of hubs), the pictures seem to be a little out of sequence/reversed. Look at step 6. Pressing the bearing outside in, but second picture shows pressing it inside out. Instructions are correct tho.

2. Might want to mention removal and installation of snap rings. BTW, the factory manual does not say to replace the snap rings. I removed mine and they look ok.
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Old 08-17-2005, 10:22 AM   #44
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Just saw this really nice link in TXIC, Damn you Subaru . I'll also post a illustrated view of the axle assembly when I get home.

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf

Guru
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Old 08-17-2005, 05:08 PM   #45
STI4ME
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If anyone needs dimensions to make the press adapters, these are from Timken's website (shown in SAE and Metric units):

Bearing Width 1.4961
Bearing Width 38.001
Cone Bore 1.6535
Cone Bore 41.999
Cone Width 1.4961
Cone Width 38.001
Cup OD 1.378
Cup OD 35.001
Part Number 1 517008
Part Number 1 517008
Part Number 2 -
Part Number 2 -
Type TS
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Old 08-26-2005, 04:23 AM   #46
STI4ME
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For those that are interested...

The factory wheel bearings I pulled out from my MY2002 WRX are made by NTN with p/n 4T-CRI-08A01 stamped on them. Looking at NTN's website, the dynamic load rating is 75,000 lbs. They also have two other p/n's (4T-CRI-0823 & 4T-CRI-0881) that have the same overall dimensions but dynamic load rating is much higher at 82,500 lbs. See http://www.ntnamerica.com/Engineerin...00_Tapered.pdf. Scroll down to page 30 for specs.

I wonder if these bearings are better than the factory spec'd units and if they are available to the general public.

Gary Sheehan, have you ever looked into this in your previous Suby life?
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Old 08-26-2005, 10:25 AM   #47
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Wow- good sleuthing! Do you think NTN could answer the question?
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Old 08-26-2005, 05:35 PM   #48
STI4ME
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Mike - not sure if there are any NTN dealers that can get either of those two p/n's. And I doubt we'll get any response directly from NTN.

I did some more digging and found out that Mazda uses a similar bearing, NTN p/n 4T-CRI-0822 (Mazda p/n H266-26-151). Same dimensions and load rating, but has built-in seals, I think. Not that this has anything to do with Suby's.
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:42 PM   #49
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Everyone's been looking for a uprated wheel bearing- would be nice to find out if those listed indeed fit
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Old 08-27-2005, 09:21 PM   #50
Patrick Olsen
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I just sent an email to NTN's technical email address:

Quote:
Hello,
I'm in the process of replacing the front wheel bearings on my AWD 1997 Subaru Legacy sedan. The factory wheel bearings, and the replacements I obtained from the Checkers Auto Parts, are both NTN part # 4T-CRI-08A01. Out of curiosity, I checked the specs for the bearing in your catalog, and I see that there are two identically sized bearings (4T-CRI-0881 and 4T-CRI-0823) with a higher load rating. I use my car for auto-cross competitions and open track lapping events, so the higher load rating would be a good thing.
Logically, it would seem that the -0881 or -0823 bearing units would fit my car, since all the dimensions are the same as the factory -08A01 bearing unit. However, just the fact that there are two bearing units with the same dimensions and same load rating but different part numbers makes me think there might be more to this than meets the eye.
Which brings me to my questions. (1) Will the -0881 and/or -0823 bearing units fit in place of the -08A01 bearing unit? (2) What is the difference between the -0881 and -0823 that results in the different part numbers? And (3) Is there any way to find out what applications (year and model of vehicle) use those other bearing units? (It would be much easier to go to the parts place and ask for parts for a specific car, rather than trying to look up the NTN part number in their system).
Thank you very much for your assistance.

Respectfully,
Patrick Olsen
Ewa Beach, HI
I'll let you guys know what they say (if anything).

I disassembled my left front today. One step missing from the procedure (which might be obvious, but just in case...) is to remove the snap ring before you press the bearing out.

Edit: By the way, what packaging did everyone's replacement bearings come in? I bought mine (as I said in the email) from Checkers, and they came in packaging from a company called SKF (part no. FW176), but the bearing cages definitely have the NTN markings on them. Searching SKF's site www.chicago-rawhide.com (and no, I have no idea what "Chicago rawhide" has to do with a company called SKF Seals! ) I see that they actually sell a bearing/hub unit for the rear of my car, but not for the front. Bastards. That would certainly make this evolution a lot easier. Anyway, throwing the two higher load rating NTN bearing numbers into SKF's cross-reference part search, they both spit out SKF part no. FW105. I'm going to go back to Checkers and see if they can call that up.

Edit 2: Perhaps I'm misunderstanding where the seals are supposed to go, but I think the "order of assembly" is off, too. Don't you need to install the outer seal before you press the hub into the bearing? The outer seal goes on the outside of the bearing (facing out towards the hub/rotor/wheel), right?

And on a completely unrelated note, NTN is a sponsor of BAR Honda, which I didn't realize until I checked their site. I should have thrown a plug for BAR Honda into my email!

Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan

Last edited by Patrick Olsen; 08-28-2005 at 05:09 PM.
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