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Old 06-22-2005, 04:51 PM   #1
sebtarta
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 82883
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: 3rd Planet
Vehicle:
2006 2.5i Wagon
'72 Nova Turns & Stops

Default Write up on my mods with reviews on each on of them - LOOOONG POST

This is mainly a write up with my mods installed in my Subaru RS 2.5 2001. I will write a small review on the aftermarket parts and where you can get them. When I bought the car in Feb. the car came with basically all stock. Plus a few items.
· Short shifter
· STI front strut bar
· Bosal Prospeed exhaust (SPT)


Now going into the modifications.

Air intake – this was my 1st mod I did. I read a lot of threads where they mentioned that by keeping the air box you do not loose the low-end torque that the engine produces. So off I went and got the Ganzflow airintake mod. It was pretty easy to install, about 10min total, and self-explanatory. I also disconnected the battery in order to let the ECU reset it self afterwards. You can get it at, http://www.imprezars.com/ganzflowintake.htm I also added my K&N Filter with that. In terms of powergains and all that mumbo-jumbo say they get 10hp extras, don’t think its true. What I can say is that you could feel the engine breathing better, it would rev smooth all the way up. Gas mileage went up a it too, not that much but at least I was able to do an extra day.

Spark Plugs and Wires – This was a very interesting modification I did. I basically ordered the NGK Iridium Spark plugs part # IFR6E-11 from www.ngk.com it self. The wires I ordered were the Magnecor Competition Wires form www.z1auto.com. The installation took some time, especially on the left side of the car (drivers side), as you have the windshield fluid bottle and battery in the way in order to get to the plugs. The battery was disconnected for the ECU to re-learn itself after installation was done. The right side was easy as the excess air box was replaced with the ganzflow. But here mainly is replacing the sparkplugs and adding anti-seize paste before replacing one by one. After that, the wires need to be swapped, and here is where you have to pay good attention. Each wire coming from the ignition goes to a specific cylinder, so when doing this, the best way is to do one by one too. I found that by pulling the end of the boot of the wires out when pushing the connecter to the sparkplug made things easier and allowed me to make sure they connected, specially hearing that “click”. The Magnecor wires are a bit longer than OEM’s but you can realize which is which. Once you finish replacing the battery, place back the windshield fluid and battery, connect everything up and start the engine. Make sure everything seems to be connected and go off for a spin.
By doing this I found out that the car started better during cold days or any day in particular. The engine responded much better, either in low or high revs.

Wheels and tires – This is what mostly everybody does to their cars. Look for some good-looking wheels and then wrap them with good tires. I went with my Rotas SDR gun metallic, www.subydude.com. The tires I used were the Hankook Ventus HRII H405 Tires. All in all there are very good tires for daily driving and adding some adrenaline to your ride when you ask for it. Cannot say much about this, but I am very happy with my wheels and tires.

Headers – So here was my dilemma. Spend aprox. $800 plus shipping for some equal length headers, or go for the Borlas. So I went for the Borlas, even though I knew that I wasn’t going to gain much power, as I would have with the ELH. I ordered them from www.renickmotorsports.com and then ordered the Thermo-Tec exhaust wrap 50ft part # THE-11001 and the Exhaust Wrap Coating (silver) part # THE-12002 from www.summitracing.com. This was one of the toughest jobs I did with the car; as to wrap the headers was neither fun nor that easy. I basically followed the instruction that came with the wrapping material came with and I wrapped the headers. It took about 1 hour to make sure everything was done neat and tidy, and that the retainers would hold everything in its place. After that I left the headers to dry completely, then waited for a nice sunny dry day and applied the coating. Once that dried up, I went to install the header. Unhooked the battery (negative only), lifted the car up, unscrewed the bolts, took the OEM header down, put brand new gaskets, and bolted up the Borla header. Brought that down, fired the engine and went for a spin. Low-end torque was increase a bit; I mainly test that by going up hill and hitting the throttle and see how it delivers its power in low revs. Noise changed too, more of a rumble sound. Gas mileage was increased too; the combo of having the ganzflow and the headers is a nice setup as for now I can hit almost 390 miles per gas tank. That is if I am not at full throttle 24/7, and cruising at an average of 65mph on the highway.

Brakes – this is one of the most important upgrades to do to the car. Even before you start doing major work on the engine and all to get the hidden horsies out of the engine, this is a must, especially in the RS. I went to order my stainless steel brake lines, EBC green stuff brake pads, and found in the classifies a set of DBA rotors. The lines and pads were ordered from www.boxer4racing.com. For this mod, I had the dealership do it for me, as I did not have time to do by myself. If you feel that you can do it and have time, check www.northursalia.com he has a very good description on how to bleed and change the rotors and pads. Once this was done, WOW, what a difference. The car would stop! No brake fade, the car felt very nice when braking hard, specially when taking for a test drive in some back windy-hilly roads. This is a MUST in terms of modifications for the car. Don’t go and put all that power if then you cannot stop it.

Engine, Tranny and Pitch mounts – This mod replaced the OEM mounts for the Group-N, there is a big difference between them as the OEM are softer than the Group-N leading to more vibration in the engine particularly. The easiest mount to change was the pitch, basically you disconnect the air box, unbolt the screws that hold the pitch mount replace, and re-install everything back. The tranny mount was not as difficult, but you need to lift the car, a lifter is best, using a jack to hold the tranny, unbolt the mount and swap it with the Group-N. Then come the engine mounts, which basically wsa the most difficult thing I ever came across with. This was hard enough to do, but you can check www.scooby-mods.com or www.northursalia.com for more info. All in all it took about 4 hours to do everything. But when everything was done, you could see a big difference, just by trying to shake the engine only, the whole car would move with it. When the engine started, there was no shake what so ever. You could see the engine solid on the chassis. When I put 1st gear, the shifting was more precise. Here is where you say, I have spent the time and money wisely. It increased the torque and the feel of the car much better as you don’t have the tranny and engine moving all over the place. It makes everything more rigid, making the car feel better at the same time.

High flow Cat Pipe - Here is where you replace the 2 cat to one, and let the engine exhale better. I bought the Stromung High flow cat pipe from www.renickmotorsports.com, got it right in time for the weekend. It also came with a new gasket but you need a new donut gasket if you think yours is in a bad shape. This is very easy to do, jack up the car, take the sensors out using a sensor socket that you can get in any autoparts shop. then remove the bolts and swap the OEM catalytic pipe for the aftermarket one. Once everything is back, let ir rip. I could feel a difference in the dyno-butt, but i could still feel that the engine wanted to let the air out quiker. Unfortunately the CEL came on. So i tried adding a anti fouler spark plug but that did not seem to work either. But this is a nice upgrade to the exhaust system, and you could feel some gain by doing this.

Cat Back - Stromung Axel back was the one I installed. Found it on the classifieds for a nice price so I just went with it. I also ordered the center pipe from www.boxer4racing.com to complete the full exhaust system. Once I finished coating the pipe, I went to install the full exhaust with the Kartboy hangers that I purchased when I bought the center pipe. Very easy to do, and once this was done I took the rear O2 sensor and added the MIP eliminator in order to kill that dreadful CEL out. Replaced the sensor back, turned the ignition key and “OH MY GOD!!!” The boxer engine was alive…. Went out for a test, and the engine just asked for more and more, the revs went smooth all the way up with no problems, the car was alive. It needed that extra diameter in the exhaust system to be able to breathe out better, and this was the solution.

Crank Pulley – I read about this all over the web, and in every web-shop they sold it. Came up with Mr. Josh’s pulley, www.mrjosh43.com. So off I went to do the swap in pulleys. This was hard to do, but again after some reading in www.scoobymods.com and on the forum in www.nasioc.com was able to do it. When I had both pulleys side by side, both were the same diameter and all. But the weight was the biggest difference. The best of this also is that you are able to use the stock belts, so there is no need to buy aftermarket belts too. Now here is where the review about this makes me wonder about it. Maybe in some occasion I would feel the engine turn faster or maybe with less restrain, yeah the revs went smoother too, but sometimes its all in the head. My dyno-but could not feel much of a difference. It is said that it does help the engine a lot, so I guess either than eye candy look, you also gained a few ponnies.





Thats about as much I have done to my car. I must say THANK YOU Joseph for helping me in working with my car.

Another mod will be done in a few weeks, which is the 4-pots with WRX rotors and the H6 rotors at the back.

Sorry for the long post, but just felt like giving my opinions about things that I have done, as I read that a lot of people were asking about some of the things i did.
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Old 06-22-2005, 05:06 PM   #2
impr25rs
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Member#: 60162
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: PDX, OR
Vehicle:
04 Aspen RS
The One Not Turbo'd, NA!!

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Good write up. This is something that many new members need to look at and help them decide what to do.
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Old 06-22-2005, 05:24 PM   #3
RodimusPrime
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Member#: 82118
Join Date: Feb 2005
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Vehicle:
2005 GD6 2.5RS
Crystal Gray Metallic

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Thanks for the write up! It's always great to see people taking the time to report back on their mods.
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Old 06-22-2005, 08:09 PM   #4
SUBY2.5
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Member#: 31985
Join Date: Jan 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Ny-Ct
Vehicle:
06 Outback Wagon
SWP

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No problem I'm always willing to help a friend out. Maybe I should sell the sti and go all out on the rs.
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Old 06-22-2005, 09:05 PM   #5
sebtarta
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Member#: 82883
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: 3rd Planet
Vehicle:
2006 2.5i Wagon
'72 Nova Turns & Stops

Default

Thanx Joe for the help. I did this because I was hoping to share some of my mods with other people. If any has any questiones, shoot a reply or a pm.
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Old 06-22-2005, 09:40 PM   #6
HondaH8er
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Member#: 3097
Join Date: Nov 2000
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: www.rs25.com Beaverton, OR
Vehicle:
2013 Ford Focus ST
Performance Blue

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I originally had the GanzFlow intake with the K&N drop-in on my car, but recently switched to a Weapon R Secret Weapon. Much better intake, very noticable power gains over the Ganz.
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