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Old 03-08-2008, 12:24 PM   #51
SilverSurfer04STi
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Yeah. Like what?
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Old 02-05-2010, 11:51 AM   #52
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I'm bumping this thread because it is a very good read to all those that aren't sure about swapping. Get to it!
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:41 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bl_easy View Post
I'm bumping this thread because it is a very good read to all those that aren't sure about swapping. Get to it!
no, it really isnt.
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:34 PM   #54
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Do you want to make an argument with your statement? This thread isn't debating usdm or jdm build quality (which isn't so debatable considering the age differences between a G and a usdm 205), it is merely stating the ease of putting an Ej20g in a GC car in very black and white terms. And seeing as I just started my ej20g swap on the first key-on -and this is my first engine swap - yes I will say that this thread was helpful and somewhat informative.
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Old 02-05-2010, 02:08 PM   #55
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This can be argued for days. I bought a 95 JDM Sti RA clip. I got the entire car, cut in half for 4500. it had 192km on it. I am rebuilding engine before install.

I have wilwood big brakes, jdm exhaust goodies that came on halfcut.

I bought a 96 brighton, will all the sexy bodywork from japan for 6k.

Doing labor myself i will have under 14k into this project.

.02 cents
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Old 02-05-2010, 02:24 PM   #56
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I bought half a 93 WRX with about half your kilometers for less than half your price. I've got USDM WRX front brakes, version 6 sti 4.44 tranny with LSD, the jdm bodywork and if I want, RHD powered doors. Doing labor myself, and not caring about painting the car has me under a third your cost. If I get the car painted we'll see mre money spent. I wasn't trying for a super power build, I just wanted a WRX.

And it's easier to do than to think about. Ain't nothing to do it but to do it!
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Old 02-05-2010, 02:28 PM   #57
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Oh and the swap car that received the JDM treatment cost $1k on Craigslist.
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Old 02-05-2010, 02:50 PM   #58
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sti ra > wrx
mint contition one owner brington with jdm body and complete respray > 1k CL clunker

:-) lucky we all have opinions and preferences! :-)
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Old 02-05-2010, 03:47 PM   #59
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Yeah, that "clunker" was actually bone stock, no rust, old lady owned, mint interior, straight body. You paid $5k for paint and body parts when that can be done for, well, half that again - except you didn't pick the color.

And everyone knows that STi > WRX
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Old 02-05-2010, 03:51 PM   #60
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But what we're saying to those reading is that... you can spend as little or as much as you want to. and swapping is cake.
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Old 02-06-2010, 05:49 PM   #61
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There's some mistakes in the beginning of this thread, but whatever it's old. People have figured out a lot in 5 years.

My 95 wrx ej20g swap, engine, trans, harness and ecu, rear diff and lots of extras was $700. 95 fwd coupe rust free from florida was $600. I bought a dp, header, fmic and exhaust for it from ebay. I had most of the awd stuff sitting around, I need a few junkyard parts. Add in shipping and all the stuff I bought and I think I will have about $3500 in the car. I got rid of a lot of unneeded stuff, I think the car will be 2500 lbs or less. Once it's running I think I am going to add sti 550 cc injectors and a Rob chip. 300 whp and 2500 lbs will be fun.

I finished the wiring merge yesterday, it really wasn't a big deal. Strip down both harnesses and merge about 20 wires or so. It took me a few hours.
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Old 02-06-2010, 05:59 PM   #62
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I found it easier to leave my ej18 harness in the car and splice the ej20k ecu plugs in and add the boost solenoid harness. Also swapped the maf sensor plug and extended a couple of other engine harness wires. Doesn't look stock if you look closely enough but the people I've shown can't tell. Didn't have to remove the dash or any of the rest of the harness.
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:12 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
I found it easier to leave my ej18 harness in the car and splice the ej20k ecu plugs in and add the boost solenoid harness. Also swapped the maf sensor plug and extended a couple of other engine harness wires. Doesn't look stock if you look closely enough but the people I've shown can't tell. Didn't have to remove the dash or any of the rest of the harness.
The 95 EJ18 ECU harness comes out with two plugs behind the dash. It's separate from the complete bulkhead harness. You don't have to pull the whole bulkhead out. You unplug those two plugs, the ecu plugs and the plugs at the back of the engine and pull the whole ecu harness out. Merge about 20 wires, separate the jdm ecu wires into 3 branches, one to the solenoids, one to the back of the engine and one to the 2 plugs on the side of the engine. Run everything out the original firewall hole the ecu wiring passed, it all fits, then in the engine bay over to where it goes. This can all be done in just a few hours.
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:18 PM   #64
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I did mine in a few hours, it wasn't difficult for me. This isn't a "I did mine faster than yours" or "I did mine cheaper than yours" thread, its just an information thread. Everyone chooses to do it their own way, no biggie either way. Its all irrelevant for me anyway because I had already merged a jdm ej25 legacy ecu into my harness to run my 98 ej25d and I had to remove those ecu plugs to install the ej20k plugs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 69subaru360 View Post
The 95 EJ18 ECU harness comes out with two plugs behind the dash. It's separate from the complete bulkhead harness. You don't have to pull the whole bulkhead out. You unplug those two plugs, the ecu plugs and the plugs at the back of the engine and pull the whole ecu harness out. Merge about 20 wires, separate the jdm ecu wires into 3 branches, one to the solenoids, one to the back of the engine and one to the 2 plugs on the side of the engine. Run everything out the original firewall hole the ecu wiring passed, it all fits, then in the engine bay over to where it goes. This can all be done in just a few hours.
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:28 AM   #65
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imho
this thread should be locked and buried...

its the half-a**ed method ..
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:46 PM   #66
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Quote:
What about putting an older Japenese motor in my newer car (i.e. 94-96 EJ20g into my 99 RS). Sure, why not? JDM motors only have at most 60,000 miles - it plugs in and works just fine.
Hello all,
Long time lurker, first time posting. To be brief; I just bought an STi V2 engine/tranny with ECU and wiring harness. I want to swap this into my into my 99 2.5 RS. Now I know physically installing the engine and tranny will be a walk in the park but I am wondering about mating the wiring harness to the car.

I know the STi V2 has a mechanical speedo cable while the gauges in the RS reads from the VSS in the tranny. I have access to the mechanical GC era STi speedo. Would this make this swap easier?

Or is it just as easy to use the RS VSS in the STi tranny and splice a wire to the appropriate part of the STi harness?

All I am looking for is the engine and transmission swap. I want to keep the stock RS gauges. What do I need to do to swap the STi V2 stuff into my RS?

I am getting all of my ducks in a row now so I can do the swap this Easter weekend.

The thread originator says that this STi V2 into 99 RS swap is easy. Is it as simple as pulling the 2.5RS ECU and related harness out and replacing it with the STi ECU/Harness and then plugging everything in and modding the harness to read info from the RS' VSS?

Or can I just get a mechanical STi speedo and go that route?

The wiring of this swap is the only source of question marks for me. Any mechanical or fitment issues I can solve.

Any help on this would massively appreciated as I've done all kinds of searching and I can't find any hard info on how to accomplish this swap even though it seems it's been done many times. But I've found lots of other great info here. This really a great resource!

regards

rh666
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Old 03-30-2010, 12:38 AM   #67
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Default Another question...

I was talking to a JDM importer today and he swears up and down that an STi engine swap into a 99 2.5RS cannot be done without a crossmember from a turbo Impreza (up to 2004).

Is this true? Looking into the engine compartment there seems to be tons of room to slip a 2.5" or 3" DP in there.

Can an STi engine be swapped in without a turbo cross member? I don't mind (and am able to) modifying or even contructing a new DP or UP if necessary. But how do say Rallispec's kit get around this issue?

regards,

rattlehead
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Old 03-30-2010, 09:26 AM   #68
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not true. it's easier having the proper cross member in all honesty. otherwise you build custom parts for your exhaust or cut a hole in the cross member to make the exh. fit. not sure about ralli spec, but custom is easier to go bigger and will work. i did this on my OBS wagon with the NA cross member. it's sucks for space reasons though.

--keith
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Old 03-30-2010, 10:31 AM   #69
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possible but requires cutting and welding .. aka yes get a turbo crossmember
a 93-01 is better than the 02-07

please create a new thread for questions like this
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Old 03-30-2010, 11:37 AM   #70
rattlehead666
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kheff46 View Post
not true. it's easier having the proper cross member in all honesty. otherwise you build custom parts for your exhaust or cut a hole in the cross member to make the exh. fit. not sure about ralli spec, but custom is easier to go bigger and will work. i did this on my OBS wagon with the NA cross member. it's sucks for space reasons though.

--keith
That's what I figured Keith. Thank you for answering my question. Looking at the STi engine and the engine compartment in my RS, there looks to be enough room to makes some thing fit If worse comes to worse, a custom made up and down pipe or I guess the cross member could be notched and filled with 4.5" i.d. x .250" pipe cut in half and welded into the notch.
Thanks for the confirmation.


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Originally Posted by Jaxx View Post
possible but requires cutting and welding .. aka yes get a turbo crossmember
a 93-01 is better than the 02-07



please create a new thread for questions like this
Jaxx,
I can cut and weld!

Also, I would have started my own thread but I couldn't since it was only my 3rd post. Besides, is my Q not relevant to the thread? I'm talking about a JDM EJ20 swap. But if the OP disagrees that my questions are not contributing in any way I would not raise a fuss if my posts in this thread were removed.

I came to this thread looking for answers to the cross-member issue and other questions. Most of them got answered (Thank you Supermoose!!!!!) Sm partially answered my x-member Q in his initial posts. I just wanted some clarification on this issue is all. I apologize if I broke any rules.

*This post puts me over the line!!

regards,

rattlehead

Last edited by rattlehead666; 03-30-2010 at 12:11 PM. Reason: speeling end punkchuweighshun
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Old 03-30-2010, 04:08 PM   #71
Matt Monson
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imho
this thread should be locked and buried...

its the half-a**ed method ..
This...Moose was a hack and a ripoff artist...
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:04 PM   #72
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This...Moose was a hack and a ripoff artist...
even hacks stumble upon different ways of getting cars to run tho. he was one of the first to think differently and swap cars with less than a handful of wires touched. shady for thoroughness, but works of fun!

it gave me the idea to put power to the fuel pump and hook the gas lines up and use the complete JDM harness(which is pretty smart imo) instead of pay for merging etc.

why pay money, hack a harness or two, and send it out to someone you don't know, and HOPE its proper when you get it back. i don't trust others normally, so it made all the sense in the world to keep the original everything if possible(and it is!) and run it the way it was(novel idea!).

rip off artist... hack.... contributor to nasioc(sad but true)

--keith
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:35 PM   #73
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So i have about $4k to spend on my swap right now. I wanna go the JDM ej20 route... If you guys can point me in the right direction on All ill need and best deals please do... Im No Newb to working on Suby's but the whole JDM swap thing I AM so... Anything helps!
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:41 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by WelDun1 View Post
So i have about $4k to spend on my swap right now. I wanna go the JDM ej20 route... If you guys can point me in the right direction on All ill need and best deals please do... Im No Newb to working on Suby's but the whole JDM swap thing I AM so... Anything helps!
If this is on a 98 the only JDM swaps you can do are V7 up, you need OBD2 for emissions testing.
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:45 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supermoose View Post
Mike runs a EJ20G in his own car. i drove his car last month - hes got the 96 WRX EJ20G bone stock everything. TD05, cast pistons with HLA, Stock cat in downpipe with no muffler (double resonators). probably makes about 280 crank ps.

Comparing his car with my best friends 235 dynopac AWHP Ej205 (stock TD04, no cats, ecutech tune), the tuned EJ205 is faster. more responsive, better top end (6K+) etc. spools quicker etc.

Mikes car passes emmissions in Cali. a JDM EJ20G passes CALI SMOG. enough said about that.

his motor setup is bone stock. You can buy an entire front clip with the awesome 4.11 gear ratio gearbox for less than $2500 bucks. ive bought 2.

a EJ205 dropout with harness and trans intact should cost $2500. we all know that a tune setup shoudl cost $1500-2000. (full exhaust+ dyno time)

play the numbers. which is a better deal for the money?

when refering to G motors let's talk WRX only. im not intersted in a pos legacy 220 ps motor with a VF10. we're talking about a front cut of a 94-96 JDM wrx car, minimum power is 260 stock and they have closed decks.

perhaps im lucky, the first clip i got was a sti version 1 with 8.5:1 forged pistons (in my friends car - gearbox was in mine - for sale now), Currently a Sti-RA version 2 v-limited is sitting in my garage with EJ20G 8.5:1 forged with mechanical valvetrain like the later K motors.

Freak luck i suppose :P

Powerlabs has the later EJ20K motor in his car with the nicer heads. more raars for him.

the argument is $2500 vs $4000-4500. Of course the ej205 for $4000 has its benefits, but its just too much money to put my vote there. is a $4000 EJ205 faster than a $2500 EJ20G?? of course. but you are still suck with the total ****e 3.9 gearbox ratios for the USDM. THAT is undisputed.

obviously for big power you want a EJ207. when i have 8K to trash, ill sign up for the version 8 longblock. they are quite the nice.

EJ20K is a good motor too, ssteve - ill be hard pressed to be even close to yours with my OG RA, but im guessing you paid a pretty penny for your clip - $4K ++ right?
Ive been looking everywhere for a front clip under 2500. Please if you happen to come accross one will you IM me!?! Im trying to get my swap ta goin but workin on a budget tends to slow shyt down..haha.. i have about $4k to work with. Most important thing to me is that i do everything right the first time even if it takes longer ya know!?!
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