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Old 09-15-2005, 09:37 PM   #76
Joker 13
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Yea I had to move he alternator power hookup from 12 to 9 when looking from the front of the car. Luckily I have a buddy that works at a diesel shop, so the power steering line wasn't to expensive. Only like $30. As far as the notch out for the ac belt, it's pretty much trial and error. Slap everything together to get an idea of where the notch goes and keep putting the alternator on and off until you think you'll have enough clearance for the belt. Main thing is to remember to leave enough room for the belt in case there is ever any slop in it or it moves while you're driving and to knock down and round over any sharp edges.
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Old 09-15-2005, 11:58 PM   #77
NavyBlueSubaru
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I paid like $200 for the replacement ps lines from the dealership. $30 would have been a lot nicer, but oh well.

Jeff
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Old 09-15-2005, 11:58 PM   #78
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oops double post.
Jeff
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Old 09-17-2005, 07:07 PM   #79
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Thanks Evil STI... I will be taking a bunch of high-res shots of my car soon(looks totally diff now). I need to get it done soon b/c the car will be up for sale as soon as I have a free chance to clean up the rest of the engine bay. I will be sure to take some good engine pics to share with everyone.
Take it easy
Chris
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Old 09-19-2005, 01:28 AM   #80
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Where's the cheapest place to buy pipes?
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Old 09-19-2005, 01:51 AM   #81
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I bought most of my stuff from atpturbo.com
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Old 09-19-2005, 08:16 AM   #82
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Depending on what you want them made out of na dhow much you need, you can buy cheap intake kits of ebay and use that piping.
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Old 09-25-2005, 04:57 PM   #83
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joker 13- do you remember what length belt you had to use for the alternator? i have pretty much the same set-up as you right now, but i had to crush the piping a lil bit to fit under the hood. i'm going to try to route the piping the same way you did to see if i can get some more clearence. or, if it's possible, do you think you can make another one of the piping? thanks for all the help!
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Old 09-25-2005, 07:56 PM   #84
Joker 13
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I used a Gatorback 4pk865. You should be able to use a 5pk865 as well.
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Old 09-26-2005, 11:45 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joker 13
I used a Gatorback 4pk865. You should be able to use a 5pk865 as well.
Good-year Gatorback 4pk865 is 4040340.

4 = K section Poly V-belt
04 = 4 ribs
034 = 34 inches
0 = plus 0 10ths of an inch.

So, 5pk865 is 4050340, is the same length with one extra rib. The stock STi belt has 5 ribs.

Last edited by metoo; 09-27-2005 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 09-27-2005, 12:12 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metoo
Good-year Gatorback 4pk865 is 4040340.

4 = K section Poly V-belt
04 = 4 ribs
034 = 34 inches
0 = plus 0 10ths of an inch.

So, 5pk865 is 4050340, is the same length with one extra rib. The stock STi belt has 5 ribs.
Exactly.
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Old 09-27-2005, 12:59 AM   #87
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I will be doing this soon but with a v-mount setup. I will run the pipe from the turbo compressor with smooth transitions to the right side of the vehicle with the intake manifold pulling the air from the left side of IC. What's nice about this setup is that you can run any air intake setup you want and no hard 90s right out of the compressor.
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Old 09-28-2005, 01:40 AM   #88
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Okay, I'm ticked

The stock belt is 5pk882 which is a 882mm belt or 34.72" belt.

I went to NAPA and bought a 050340 belt (Gates Micro-V). The specs are:
11/16" x 34-5/8" (34.625")
18mm x 880mm
So, by spec the stock belt is just over 3/32" or 2mm bigger. [I know that 3/32" does not equal 2mm. Just going by the specs]
I shaved the alternator so that it could be lowered to the absolute lowest position. I can't even think about getting the new belt on! The stock belt practially falls into place. I know the stock belt is stretched a bit, but wow! How in the heck do you get the belt on? Is it easier to get a Gatorback on or a 4 rib?

I don't know which is more annoying: that I can't get the belt on or all these double underlined/highlighted common words that lead to ads.

Last edited by metoo; 09-28-2005 at 03:41 AM.
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Old 09-28-2005, 08:14 AM   #89
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It is a very tight fit to get the new smaller belt on. I have to take the alternator pulley off, place the belt on the alt pulley and than slip it back onto the alt. I found it damn near impossible to get a small enough belt that would still slip over everything with the pulley still in place.
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Old 09-28-2005, 02:11 PM   #90
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I found a similar sized idler pulley that I think will also work for this. I ordered one and should have it next week.. although when I'll be actually putting it to use i'm not sure.

Fenner Industrial Idler Pulleys

I ordered part # FA3501 through a local distributor for $8.70.

From what I can find on the net it looks like the bearings should handle 16-17000 rpm. It appears to be a standard bearing number but I know very little about bearing so I'm not sure if it's just a size designation and everyone has their own rpm limits or what.
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Old 09-28-2005, 02:38 PM   #91
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TSL's wrc type........



and.......



per their site:

Quote:
Originally Posted by TSL webbie
The intake manifold can be installed on all Subaru Impreza turbo (GT) models from 1996 onwards, replacing the complete standard OEM manifold and forming the basis for further modifications to the engine. This intake system enables the installation of a front mounted intercooler. The system includes the complete intake manifold, a modified radiator and a front-mounted intercooler, and to gain the system benefits all parts must be installed together. The intake manifold is constructed from lightweight, thin-walled tubing which is less sensitive to vibration and cracking. The design uses the resonance method in which the energy of the shock pulsations (waves) is used to “create” high pressure zones that prevent the exhaust gases from entering the intake manifold, and low pressure zones that prevent the escape of the fresh mixture during valve overlap.
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Old 09-28-2005, 03:41 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joker 13
It is a very tight fit to get the new smaller belt on. I have to take the alternator pulley off, place the belt on the alt pulley and than slip it back onto the alt. I found it damn near impossible to get a small enough belt that would still slip over everything with the pulley still in place.

I'll try it, but I think that the belt is too small to even do that.
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Old 09-28-2005, 04:04 PM   #93
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This is our 2.0L shop car. We build custom manifold flip kits. We can make a setup for any turbo or piping configuration you would like. We can also have any or all of the parts powder coated. A typical kit costs ~$2600 and comes with all Samco hoses, t-bolt clamps, Precision air to air bar and plate intercooler and a Turbosmart BOV. All piping is stainless for durability and scratch resistance and can be polished to a mirror finish. You don't need to drop the car at Agile either since we have both a WRX and a STi to mock up the kit on.


PUMP GAS @ 23 psi

The Agile scooby runs an SC61 which is a non-BB with the GT35 wheels on an ej207 RA engine.

If you're looking for a custom setup that will put down a lot of power and have people gasping when you pop your hood, this is the one. Most setups require the removal of the AC system but those who can't live without it can be appeased. We can run piping over the compressor but it doesn't leave a lot of room for engine movement (hardened mounts required). Call and ask for Hill if you have any questions.
-Hill
Agile Automotive Performance
410 628 9099
www.agileauto.com
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Old 09-28-2005, 05:55 PM   #94
NavyBlueSubaru
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That setup looks really nice. Is there any particular reason why the car makes virtually no power until almost 6k? I have never seen an impreza lag so bad. The peak HP is very nice but the powerband is almost non-existant. I understand the 207 spins >=8k but still....Anyways the engine bay looks awesome and the reverse setup is very nice.

Jeff
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Old 09-28-2005, 07:27 PM   #95
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First off, thanks Navy. This is a drag setup and thus it doesn't spool untill very late without the nitrous. Also, the car was designed to run race gas but I have no time to work on my own car. We're coming outta race season so I will be able to start working on it again soon. Expect to see race gas numbers with nitrous shortly. The car makes better than stock torque from 5000 to 8250 rpm and the addition of a nice set of cams and hooking up the AVCS will solve my powerband woes. We just don't want to push the engine since it was designed for Asian spec fuel and it's running nasty US spec gas. Once the race gas goes in and the timing and boost come up you'll see.
-Hill
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Old 09-28-2005, 08:02 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joker 13
I have to take the alternator pulley off, place the belt on the alt pulley and than slip it back onto the alt.
Okay, how do you do that? Everything moves. I can't find any help in the STi service manual.

Edit:
Put in in 6th, now the pulley slips under the belt. I hear I need and impact wrench. Harbor Freight was out of their $30 pneumatic impact wrenches, so it looks like I have to wait yet one more day so that I can borrow one from work.

Last edited by metoo; 09-28-2005 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 10-01-2005, 03:15 AM   #97
metoo
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Okay, I borrowed an impact wrench. It worked like a charm. I lowered the Alt as far as the tensioner slot would allow. I put the new NAPA/Gate Micro-V 050340 on the StPump and crank pulleys, then on the removed Alt pulley. The I tried to force the pulley back on to the shaft. Not cloe enough to even force into place.

Plan B

Broke out this baby and my Craftsman rotary tool and extended the tensioner slot to access the threaded hole in the Alt when it was at its lowest posible point with the screw out.


I tried to put the pulley on and was just able to force the pulley over the first 2 threads of the shaft by hand power. Then I used a block of wood and a hammer to put it all the way on. Needless to say, there wasn't much tensioning that had to be done. The Alt can be absolutely no lower. Now I ust have to actually reverse the manifold and see if I have the same luck as Joker13, and not need spacers. I have and STi, so the TB may fit differently.
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Old 10-01-2005, 08:19 AM   #98
Evil STI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agile Auto
This is our 2.0L shop car. We build custom manifold flip kits. We can make a setup for any turbo or piping configuration you would like. We can also have any or all of the parts powder coated. A typical kit costs ~$2600 and comes with all Samco hoses, t-bolt clamps, Precision air to air bar and plate intercooler and a Turbosmart BOV. All piping is stainless for durability and scratch resistance and can be polished to a mirror finish. You don't need to drop the car at Agile either since we have both a WRX and a STi to mock up the kit on.


PUMP GAS @ 23 psi

The Agile scooby runs an SC61 which is a non-BB with the GT35 wheels on an ej207 RA engine.

If you're looking for a custom setup that will put down a lot of power and have people gasping when you pop your hood, this is the one. Most setups require the removal of the AC system but those who can't live without it can be appeased. We can run piping over the compressor but it doesn't leave a lot of room for engine movement (hardened mounts required). Call and ask for Hill if you have any questions.
-Hill
Agile Automotive Performance
410 628 9099
www.agileauto.com
Agile Auto:
Beautiful setup! Very pleased on the intercooler plumbing and routing. Looks fantastic.
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Old 10-01-2005, 10:37 AM   #99
Joker 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metoo
Okay, I borrowed an impact wrench. It worked like a charm. I lowered the Alt as far as the tensioner slot would allow. I put the new NAPA/Gate Micro-V 050340 on the StPump and crank pulleys, then on the removed Alt pulley. The I tried to force the pulley back on to the shaft. Not cloe enough to even force into place.

Plan B

Broke out this baby and my Craftsman rotary tool and extended the tensioner slot to access the threaded hole in the Alt when it was at its lowest posible point with the screw out.


I tried to put the pulley on and was just able to force the pulley over the first 2 threads of the shaft by hand power. Then I used a block of wood and a hammer to put it all the way on. Needless to say, there wasn't much tensioning that had to be done. The Alt can be absolutely no lower. Now I ust have to actually reverse the manifold and see if I have the same luck as Joker13, and not need spacers. I have and STi, so the TB may fit differently.

I extended my slot as well, but didn't say anything because I didn't know if it had actually made a difference. I'm not sure if an STI manifold can be flipped as easily. I base this off a test run using a spare that my brother had. The main issue is with the drive by wire solenoid on the bottom of the TB. You might have to take a little off the back of the alt as well.
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Old 10-01-2005, 03:17 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil STI
Agile Auto:
Beautiful setup! Very pleased on the intercooler plumbing and routing. Looks fantastic.
Thanks Evil.
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