Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Tuesday May 26, 2015
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Normally Aspirated Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-17-2005, 08:59 PM   #1
kingsuba
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 15623
Join Date: Feb 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: cincinnati OH
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
silver

Default Tick tick tick goes my 1.8L

I have a ticking sound from the drivers side of the motor. It could be the exhaust or valve(s). It's driving me nuts. Are the lifters solid or hydralic? What's more common to cause that tick.
Any advice would help, even sarcaism.

Thanks
Eric
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
kingsuba is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 07-17-2005, 09:14 PM   #2
2slofouru
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 90539
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: somewhere east of CA
Vehicle:
95 L with ej257k
powa, Raven R6

Default

Hydraulic adjusters. Low oil pressure or trash in adjuster(s). Enough oil? How long since last oil change? Try changing oil and filter. Do you have any oil leaking in the center front under engine? Check to be sure oil pump bolts are not loose.
2slofouru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2005, 09:59 PM   #3
kingsuba
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 15623
Join Date: Feb 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: cincinnati OH
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
silver

Default

Oil changed 3 weeks ago w/filter. With plenty of oil in there. Was leaking at drivers side valve cover and at oil filler nossle. < fixed about 8 months ago. No leaks as of today. Must have trash in adjusters. I was afraid of that. Been ticking since I decovered the leak before I fixed it.
Is it easy to remove the oil pan to check pump bolts?
I heard that engine cleaner stuff was bad on gaskets. Is this true?

My Brighton has 150,000 mlies on it. Been ticking for 9000-10,000 of them.

Thanks for the info
Anyone else have an opinion?
Eric
kingsuba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2005, 10:03 PM   #4
2slofouru
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 90539
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: somewhere east of CA
Vehicle:
95 L with ej257k
powa, Raven R6

Default

The oil pump is under the timing cover(s). I can't remember if you have to remove the belt to access the bolts, but most of my oil pump bolts were loose so I decided to remove the whole pump and regasket it. You have to use an anaerobic sealant that dries in the absence of air. There might be air getting in somehow from the pump being loose.
2slofouru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2005, 10:53 PM   #5
kingsuba
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 15623
Join Date: Feb 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: cincinnati OH
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru
The oil pump is under the timing cover(s). I can't remember if you have to remove the belt to access the bolts, but most of my oil pump bolts were loose so I decided to remove the whole pump and regasket it. You have to use an anaerobic sealant that dries in the absence of air. There might be air getting in somehow from the pump being loose.
Ohh, under the timing cover. I have had this Suby for 3 years and it still stumps me every now and then. I might as well change the timing belt(s) while I'm there. Don't know when it was changed, if it was ever changed.

Most of the cars I've owned have been inline 4 & 2wd and didn't care much about them But I really like my Brighton and want to keep it running as long as I can or untill I can afford a new Suby or motor/tranny swap.

Thanks
Eric
kingsuba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2005, 10:54 PM   #6
kingsuba
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 15623
Join Date: Feb 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: cincinnati OH
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
silver

Default

I forgot to mention that the ticking goes away after its been running for awhile or at full temp.

Eric
kingsuba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2005, 11:08 PM   #7
2slofouru
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 90539
Join Date: Jul 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: somewhere east of CA
Vehicle:
95 L with ej257k
powa, Raven R6

Default

If the adjusters are causing the ticking, the engine running a while usually quiets them. If this is the case they are probably leaking down. Trash can cause it or extreme wear. Mine has 174,000 and if it's cold outside mine will click for a few seconds until I drive then it goes away. Most of the time I have no click though. I've heard of newer Subarus doing the same thing. A guy I worked with had a brand new WRX back in 02 and his did it every now and then.
2slofouru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2005, 06:14 PM   #8
kingsuba
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 15623
Join Date: Feb 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: cincinnati OH
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
silver

Default

I'm going to be working on my Brighton next week, since I have the week off and nowhere to go. I need struts, tie rods and tires. SO while I'm putting on the tie rods and struts I might as well add the timing belt and check out the oil pump bolts.

Do you know if WRX struts and springs will work with my 96 Brighton? One of the WRX owners here changed out his stock stuff with AGX and H&R. He gave me his stock struts and springs. Figure they may lower my car slightly.

ERic
kingsuba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2005, 08:49 PM   #9
brighton96
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 85238
Join Date: Apr 2005
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Fairmont WV
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Sport Wagon
PSM+CF

Default

You could try the old school trick of putting some kerosene in the oil the day you are going to change oil, drive it that day and change oil in the evening. I've never done this myself, but one of the guys I work with has and has suggested it to me.
My Brighton ticks around oil change time, but quits after I change it.

The WRX struts and springs will fit up front, and may be an improvement. The back ones are too long and will through your rear allignment off. Also, I belive the rear springs are softer than the Brighton springs.
brighton96 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2005, 12:11 AM   #10
kingsuba
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 15623
Join Date: Feb 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: cincinnati OH
Vehicle:
2005 WRX
silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by brighton96
You could try the old school trick of putting some kerosene in the oil the day you are going to change oil, drive it that day and change oil in the evening. I've never done this myself, but one of the guys I work with has and has suggested it to me.
My Brighton ticks around oil change time, but quits after I change it.

The WRX struts and springs will fit up front, and may be an improvement. The back ones are too long and will through your rear allignment off. Also, I belive the rear springs are softer than the Brighton springs.
My Brighton ticked before the last oil change and also after.

Kerosene huh? I'll ask around.

To bad the rear struts don't fit, that would save me some money. I'm such a cheap person.

Thanks
Eric
kingsuba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2005, 12:56 AM   #11
Storm
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5218
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: SAUL'S Motorsports
Vehicle:
96L Most Over-
Developed Beater

Default

Kerosene is the stuff you'll get in the "oil flush" kits commonly available. Try this and then some "Marvel Mystery Oil" to the regular oil.

When you get all this done, if it still ticks on startup....try slowly raising the revs to around 3k a few times after it warms up a little bit. That may help pump up the lifters sooner.

If none of this works, you may just be in need of a top end rebuild.


Jay Storm
Storm is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
post items here ill buy 2.5RS parts for my 1.8L suby JMK167 Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 2 02-18-2010 03:19 AM
Tick tock, tick tock, cya Sox BAM Off-Topic 68 10-06-2004 12:34 PM
Help! my 1.8L my93 L isn't firing agian quentinberg007 Normally Aspirated Powertrain 5 08-15-2002 12:28 AM
More power for my 1.8L cardin555 Normally Aspirated Powertrain 11 12-17-2001 12:26 PM
Turbo Charging my 1.8L Dre2932 Normally Aspirated with bolt-on Forced Induction Powertrain 24 10-09-2001 11:39 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2015 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2015, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.