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Old 08-03-2005, 10:48 AM   #1
1995LegWag
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Default underdrive pulley

What are some good brands/prices for an underdrive pulley? I've done some searches and come up with unorthodox racing, ultra S, and some generic brands at places like autopartswarehouse d o t k (c)om. Then there is always the 25 dollar one on ebay (which I will stray from)...no searches came up with a good brand or prices...
and those of you who have one installed: is it a noticable gain, do you you like it?
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Old 08-03-2005, 10:54 AM   #2
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COBB makes great pulleys.
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Old 08-03-2005, 12:10 PM   #3
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Brands:

Unorthodox Racing
Perrin
Go Fast Bits (GFB)
Cobb

Prices?
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Old 08-03-2005, 02:11 PM   #4
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I like Unorthodox a lot the set is around $360 on boxer4racing.com but it works wonders, get rid of your catylitc converter and throw a set of those on and wow, you'll see your rpms shoot up just by breathing your gas pedal


~Mike
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Old 08-03-2005, 04:02 PM   #5
1995LegWag
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sounds good, now what about the mechanics/physic of how this works. I don't want to get the kit, just the underdrive, but should I go stock diameter or get one with a slightly larger diameter?

Getting rid of the cat wouldn't help me pass emissions! Thought of it though...
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Old 08-03-2005, 05:43 PM   #6
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1st... do not get rid of a cat. why do people want to pump even MORE crap into the air we need to live?!? Any big city sucks because of smog these days...

OK, so now on the pulley... cobb makes a great light weight pulley that is not underdriven. why deprive the alternator and battery if you can gain hp with a nice light weight pulley?!?
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Old 08-03-2005, 06:40 PM   #7
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Your car will perform worse without a cat.
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Old 08-03-2005, 07:34 PM   #8
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COBB this COBB that. Go with Unorthodox. I've had an underdrive pulley for about 2 months now. And the only side effect I see is that. The A/C, doesn't run as cold, and at night when your at a red light idling your lights go dimmer. If I were you go with the stock diameter. That way if you ever want to put a system in your car you don't fry your alternator trying to get more power out of it that it's producing. And Cats really don't make a difference in performance unless you have a turbo that is boosting over 10lbs or so. And what ever you do. Don't change your accessory pulleys unless they are stock size. Because if you do you will kill your water pump first then you will just have problems after that. Also a lighted Pulley doesn't give you power it's just taking off weight of the crankshaft. Just like a lightened flywheel will do. And you really won't feel the difference with the pulley unless you have some type of performance header and exhaust. And last I'm not dissing COBB, but they are just a little over priced for some of their stuff. Like pulleys, exhaust, etc. The only reasonable price I have found with them is Cams, and their headers because of their quality.
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Old 08-04-2005, 02:44 AM   #9
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nobody said cobb was the subaru god... it's just a good place to get high quality stuff. there are cheaper items out there, but who wants the $29 ebay pulley that will only give you problems and is probably made from lead or some other metal that weighs twice as much... cobb is expensive, but you know what you are getting... quality.

and nobody said the pulley would give you horsepower, but taking off crank weight does boost the efficiency of the engine which is good. as long as you don't get rid of too much inertia, this weight-savings is "like added horsepower". too much taken off the flywheel, crank, pulleys, etc will give you revving issues, especially when you are changing gears. You want enough weight so the momentum keeps the engine spinning fast while your foot is off the gas and on the clutch pedal... in any case, i don't think anyone was saying that power pulleys literally boosted horsepower!

now, enjoy the banana...
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Old 08-04-2005, 10:23 AM   #10
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I may heave mentioned in my post about added hp...what I mant was 'freed up' hp. Less weight to spin the accessories means a bit more power to the engine to spin all four rubbers.... not much though. I also figured it is a good switch only when running other performance options...intake/exhaust...thanks
I think I like unorthodox bytheway, for the price.
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Old 08-04-2005, 11:13 AM   #11
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www.mrjosh43.com

This pulley is just as lightweight as any of them and made quite well. He is often selling them on ebay for $85 shipped. Best price going. That is were I got mine and I've been pleased with it.

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Old 08-04-2005, 03:37 PM   #12
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I wouldn't go with an underdriven pulley - you'll need new belts because the diameter is smaller.

A LIGHTWEIGHT pulley is where the material used is lighter than stock (GFB), or as in the case of Perrin-types, there is material removed (like spokes). This results in a lighter rotational mass.

I just picked up a GFB crank pulley for $75 used.
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Old 08-04-2005, 03:55 PM   #13
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A lighter pulley probably is at best a 1% improvement in terms of rotational inertia. If you want to make an actual difference, you need to go for a lighter flywheel and clutch assembly. An underdrive pulley will make a difference as it drops the "drag" of the accessories - but still not a lot. The underdrive kits for the 5.0 Mustangs would quote about 5hp (on a 225 base) and that was probably optimistic.
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Old 08-04-2005, 04:05 PM   #14
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Heck, why not just remove the AC unit too? that's 40lbs off the front, move the battery to the boot to even the distribution out, and make sure your windshield washer tanks are never too full!

I never drive with my power aerial up... causes too much aero-drag...
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Old 08-04-2005, 05:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerd
A lighter pulley probably is at best a 1% improvement in terms of rotational inertia. If you want to make an actual difference, you need to go for a lighter flywheel and clutch assembly. An underdrive pulley will make a difference as it drops the "drag" of the accessories - but still not a lot. The underdrive kits for the 5.0 Mustangs would quote about 5hp (on a 225 base) and that was probably optimistic.
Hmmm, $85 or over $400?? The flywheel vs. lw pulley comparison is pretty worthless, IMO. Clearly, the flywheel will make a bigger difference, but at a price.

Also, rev-matching is now significantly easier with a LW pulley. It may not 'Add' hp, but it does improve drivability, which is more important for most people who have a legacy. For $85 there are few mods that are worth it more. Only one I have found would be with a short shifter and bushings, but there again that is over $85.

.02

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Old 08-05-2005, 12:42 AM   #16
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that is true if you only have $100 or less. After better engine and gear oil, you start to run out of things for $100 or under. The pulley, shifter, rear diff protector, and maybe one or two other things... but if you save up insteading blowing your $100 every time, you'll have the $400 or $500 before you know it!!!
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Old 08-05-2005, 01:10 AM   #17
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well, i have an auto transmission, and my tools just got jacked , so flywheels are out of the question fo me right now...so is the price. I'm just looking for some better driveability. As some of you have said here, the 95 legacy is the most boring year of subaru, so what do i do? I'd rather blow my $$ on an engine swap for my corolla.
My legacy just has no guts, shifts bad (horrible) when floored and has no passing power, so i'm looking for some things that will enhance the pleasure of driving it. I DO love to drive it, can't beat a subarus handling...you know?

So do all underdrive pulleys require new belts? Are there any that are stock diameter and width that are just plain lighter? A stock diameter but lighter material would decrease the amount of energy the motor puts into it to spin it right. Is it a good mod by itself? Any other suggestions for my slushbox?
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Old 08-05-2005, 01:22 AM   #18
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I bought one of the $55 Ebay pulleys. I ran it for awhiile with no problems and then used it as a base for the custom 7.25 overdrive pulley I had made.

In fact, it was so nice, I am going to be buying another $50 ebay pulley for my next overdrive crank pulley > 9.25"
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Old 08-05-2005, 12:09 PM   #19
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1995legwag, have you not been reading the posts above?!? we've been discussing underdrive vs just lightened pulleys and suggested several places to find both types. I'd go with the cobb lightened, but that's just me...

and yes, all underdrive pulleys need new belts, because you are changing the diameter of the pulley. that's why a lot of people want the standard size (but lightened) pulleys...

reddevil, why are you overdriving your pulley? you have a big stereo or just want to spin your ac unit so fast that it will put frost on the steering wheel?!?
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Old 08-05-2005, 04:22 PM   #20
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yeah i was reading them , i think i was thinking outloud on the last post...
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Old 08-05-2005, 11:46 PM   #21
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1990 SC 2.2 wagon

The SC stands for SuperCharged! Bigger crank pulley = 12 psi
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Old 08-06-2005, 12:00 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddevil
1990 SC 2.2 wagon

The SC stands for SuperCharged! Bigger crank pulley = 12 psi
Oooohhhhhh. makes sense. I suppose you could go all out custom: lighten and underdrive (not technically underdriving them, but making them smaller to match the crank pulley's rpm again) the crank pulley, then lighten and underdrive all the important accessory pulleys to put them back up to speed. it would mean a totally different belt size and a lot of custom cnc work, but it would help out rotational mass and still keep the alternator and a/c running ok...
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Old 08-06-2005, 02:09 AM   #23
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I made a larger alternator pulley as well so I wouldn not overdrive my alternator.
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Old 08-06-2005, 09:03 PM   #24
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ok so whats the difference between the underdrive pulley and a crankshaft pulley. I thought I knew but now i'm confused? Which one (if they are different) is better to switch out for a lighter one? Probably 'both', but if there was a preference...? Which one runs the A/C and Alternator?

Sincerely,
Confused Ben
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Old 08-07-2005, 01:06 AM   #25
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the main crank pulley is the one that turns the accessory pulleys. it is the one that some people "under-drive" meaning they make it a smaller diameter. this turns the belt less than a bigger pulley at any given rpm, which turns your accessory pulleys less at any given rpm...

if you made this crank pulley under-driven, but then made all your accessory pulleys smaller too, you'd be counteracting the affects of the smaller crank pulley.

or in dev's case, he made an "over-driven" main pulley which will turn every accessory pulley faster at any given rpm than the stock size. this is turning his supercharger faster which gives more "boost" than the stock pulley would. but he doesn't want to burn out his alternator, so he made that pulley bigger to counteract the bigger main pulley's affects.

make sense?!? the underdrive pulley IS a crank pulley. it is just a smaller version of the crank pulley so that each turn of the engine makes the belt turn a less amount. it is basic physics... a lightened pulley is the same size as stock, but it weighs less so it takes less effort (however small) to spin, which frees up more effort to spin your wheels. and any weight saved from spinning things like pulleys, drive shafts and wheels is more important than dead weight like your battery, hood, or your ass. i forget which term (sprung and unsprung weight) is for the two types of weight, but 1 pound of rotational (i think this is sprung weight) is equal to something like 5 pounds of dead weight (or unsprung i think?!?) which can add up if you take out 10 pounds on your flywheel!!!

Last edited by janikphoto; 08-07-2005 at 01:14 AM.
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