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Old 08-10-2005, 10:51 PM   #1
Alan l.
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Default Wastegate actuator arm adjustment

I did alot of reading up about adjusting the wastegate arm to:

A) Reach targeted boost
B) Minimize wastegate flutter



Seems like there was is a big variance with what subaru set this arm at from factory. Some cars have no slack, some have so much slack the arm actually moves alittle. Correct me if i'm wrong but is the ideal setting for the wastegate arm is to have it with no slack and just a tiny bit of spring load? The amount of turns you'll make would depend on what it was set at from factory so that doesn't really help. (varies from car to car)

Too much load = wastegate not opening and causing boost spike?
Not enough load = flutter and leaking boost at part throttle?

Just trying to learn more about this engine
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Old 08-10-2005, 10:54 PM   #2
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on the bandwagon for information!
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Old 08-10-2005, 10:55 PM   #3
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My wastegate arm has a bend in it. Is this the norm?
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Old 08-10-2005, 11:09 PM   #4
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The picture is at an angle at which you cant see the bend.....
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Old 08-11-2005, 10:43 AM   #5
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good thread
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Old 08-11-2005, 10:59 AM   #6
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what you said is pretty much on alan. Expcept the part where the arms are set at differenet levels from manu. THis isn't the case. The case why turbos spool differenet is because it's nearly impossible to get the same exact tension on every WG spring in Manufacturing (well, it probably wouldn't really be that hard, just more expensive ).

In the end the WG is adjustable to allow you to compensate for variances in spring tension from production.

LIke you said, you want maximum load on the WG, WITHOUT causing boost spikes above target boost, and without casuing PTFB (part throttle full boost).

The max load will help keep your WG shut during part throttle, which will help keep flutter to a minimum and also help you spool faster.
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Old 08-11-2005, 01:02 PM   #7
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I tightened mine 4 turns. Is that too much? I dont spike.
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Old 08-11-2005, 01:23 PM   #8
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if you don't exceed target boost and you have no PTFB then you're fine.
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Old 08-19-2005, 10:51 AM   #9
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I have a problem where my boost will go up when I am using the accel feature on the cruise control.

The boost shoots up to almost 1 bar! it seems normal at first and then I hear this fluttery sound and the boost goes bananas.

it did this sound on the dyno too at WOT.....you'd hear the turbo spooling and all was good then this awful fluttery soudn and we had a horrible time getting it to stabilize boost at anything but WOT.

it feels like my car is "surging" or getting more power than it should at partial throttle, especially uphill.

would this adjustment help me?
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Old 09-23-2005, 12:57 AM   #10
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Will this work on a STi? My actuator arm looks different, maybe its genetics. No really I can't find my c-clip.
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Old 09-23-2005, 06:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C43
Will this work on a STi? My actuator arm looks different, maybe its genetics. No really I can't find my c-clip.
Welcome to the world of VF series...

No adjustment... Get a helper spring like I did.

Also, side note to all the TD04 users, I did this long ago. I think Vaus had a massive thread on it, anyway I ran a turn and a half tighter and it was nice.

Warning though, I did wear out a FBC doing this. That little bugger has to work alot harder to control boost when you preload your gate. $110 to replace. I only went through one though and it was after a year.

Great mod
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Old 10-29-2005, 03:27 PM   #12
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After taking off the C-clip and disconnecting the arm, the arm should still be connected to the wastegate, correct? Do I turn the whole arm clockwise or just tighten the bolt on the end of the arm?

Thanks.
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Old 10-29-2005, 03:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaewsky1
After taking off the C-clip and disconnecting the arm, the arm should still be connected to the wastegate, correct? Do I turn the whole arm clockwise or just tighten the bolt on the end of the arm?

Thanks.
The arm should remain connected to the WG. Loosen the locknut on the threaded part of the arm first, then turn the end of the arm that you just disconnected.

Turning the disconnected end of the arm clockwise will shorten the arm (boost will increase), turning it counterclockwise will lengthen the arm (boost will decrease). If you're already seeing boost that's close to what you expect to see, don't turn it more than 1/2 to 1 full turn at a time.

Reset ECU after you adjust and drive around a bit to let the ECU relearn for a while. Only adjust as necessary to achieve target boost without any overshoot/undershoot after peak boost is achieved. The best way to check this would be to datalog in 3rd or preferably 4th gear, WOT from around 2000 or 2500rpm on up. Alternatively, you could watch your boost gauge or whatever, but datalogging lets you concentrate on the road.
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Old 10-29-2005, 06:40 PM   #14
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Well, I just did this a few days ago. I tightened it as much as possible so that I could still reach the arm to the turbo. I'm running AccessPort stage 2, gutted up, Stromung 3" TBE with hi-flow cat. My boost gauge was reading 15 psi at WOT. I data logged a few runs and only saw peak boost of 14.6 psi. After tightening the WG my boost gauge reads 16 psi. I haven't data logged it yet. Will the AccessPort be able to handle this change? Will the ECU adjust accordingly? I can definitely feel the difference, it seems to respond better/sooner.

BlackEyeII..."Warning though, I did wear out a FBC doing this. That little bugger has to work alot harder to control boost when you preload your gate. $110 to replace. I only went through one though and it was after a year." What is the FBC?

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2005, 10:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subaruwrx420
Well, I just did this a few days ago. I tightened it as much as possible so that I could still reach the arm to the turbo. I'm running AccessPort stage 2, gutted up, Stromung 3" TBE with hi-flow cat. My boost gauge was reading 15 psi at WOT. I data logged a few runs and only saw peak boost of 14.6 psi. After tightening the WG my boost gauge reads 16 psi. I haven't data logged it yet. Will the AccessPort be able to handle this change? Will the ECU adjust accordingly? I can definitely feel the difference, it seems to respond better/sooner.

BlackEyeII..."Warning though, I did wear out a FBC doing this. That little bugger has to work alot harder to control boost when you preload your gate. $110 to replace. I only went through one though and it was after a year." What is the FBC?

Thanks

The AP should be able to handle the 16 psi. Cobb's Stage2 map notes indicate target boost of 15.8 psi +/- 0.5 psi. In 4th gear WOT from 2000 rpm, I see boost rise to 15.9 psi by 2860 rpm, then a slight increase to a peak of 16.25 psi at 4700 rpm, then slowly back to 15.9 psi until 5300 rpm, then gradually tapering to around 13.4 psi by 7000 rpm.

I think FBC = factory boost controller (?)
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Old 10-30-2005, 02:51 PM   #16
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serx7...thanks man. I'm going to data log it once I can get a reliable source of fuel here in South Florida to compare. Factory Boost Controller?...I hope it holds for a while then...thanks.
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Old 11-09-2005, 08:56 AM   #17
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Well, I data logged my car yesterday on my way home from work. I saw peak boost of 16.34 in 4th gear. In 2nd gear at around 4000 rpm, I was seeing 15.3, then at 4200 to 15.8, then by 4800 back down to 15. I was very pleased. The car gained almost two pounds of boost from tightening the waste gate arm all the way. Hope it won't mess anything up.
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Old 11-09-2005, 01:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subaruwrx420
Well, I data logged my car yesterday on my way home from work. I saw peak boost of 16.34 in 4th gear. In 2nd gear at around 4000 rpm, I was seeing 15.3, then at 4200 to 15.8, then by 4800 back down to 15. I was very pleased. The car gained almost two pounds of boost from tightening the waste gate arm all the way. Hope it won't mess anything up.
Should be ok. You're at the high end of the boost range w/ the 16.34 psi peak, so keep tabs on peak boost in 4th as the outside temps continue to decrease going into winter. Your peak boost #'s are similar to what I see in 45-55F outside temps w/ my car (gutted stock UP, Crucial DP, stock 3rd cat, stock midpipe, STi axleback). When the temps dip into the 35-40F range I'll be rechecking the boost levels.

Edit: Just realized you're in FL. Don't think you need to worry too much about winter temps
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Old 11-09-2005, 01:28 PM   #19
Alan l.
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I would imagine as the temps drop, boost numbers will go up slightly or higher chance of boost spiking?
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Old 11-09-2005, 02:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan l.
I would imagine as the temps drop, boost numbers will go up slightly or higher chance of boost spiking?
That's what I expect, which is why I recommended that subaruwrx420 check boost if/when temps start to drop. Not sure how much that applies to where he is though (FL).

I noticed a ~0.5 psi boost increase when the temps went from the 60F range, down to the 50F range, and adjusted my WG arm 0.5 turn longer to compensate. When the temps drop into the 30F range in a month or so, I'll probably need to return the WG arm to its stock position. It's currently 1.5 turns shorter, no boost or WG duty cycle overshoot/undershoot seen in the logs so far.
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Old 11-10-2005, 04:24 PM   #21
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I too cannot obtain desired stage2 boost (only getting 15psi)
I will try dickin' with my wastegate arm later - thanks
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Old 11-10-2005, 08:28 PM   #22
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serx7...I'll keep an eye on boost for sure. The temperature does not drop much here in South Florida, but we do get some days/weeks where it drops down into the 50s and 40s. Plus, I autocross in north-central Florida where it can get cold. I have a gutted up, stromung tbe with hi-flow cat. If your boost spikes, then will the ecu cut the fuel before it becomes a problem?
Please help me with this "G duty cycle overshoot/undershoot seen in the logs so far."

I will post up a the numbers I got when I data logged or if someone can tell me where to read more about it, that would be excellent.

smeghead...do it, do it (moves head in a pointing motion)...I gained almost 2 psi when I adjusted it.

Thanks.
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Old 11-10-2005, 08:54 PM   #23
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I'm not sure what, if anything, the ECU does in an overboost situation, besides dialing back on WG duty cycle in an attempt to bring down the pressure.

When I had the WG arm adjusted 1/2 turn too short, I would see a quick rise in boost to about 1.5 psi above target, followed by a rapid drop in boost ~1.5-2 psi below target boost over a very short period of time (0.5 sec or so). WG duty cycle was rising up until about 1 or 1.5 sec before the spike occurred, at which point the WG duty cycle dropped quickly in an attempt to stop the spike. About 1 sec after the spike and the rapid drop in boost pressure, the boost went back up to target and stabilized.

After I lengthened the WG arm by 1/2 turn, the boost would just quickly rise to target, hold for a while, then gradually taper off as rpms increased. WG duty cycle rose quickly and settled out without going too high or too low.

Post your datalog, I'm sure there are a lot of ppl who can help you interpret it. You'll at least want to log Engine RPM, Vehicle Speed (so be able to figure out what gear you were in later), Throttle Opening Angle, Manifold Relative Pressure. Might as well log Ignition Timing, Knock Correction, Injector Duty Cycle, Mass Air Flow (g/s) while you're at it. I use Tari DL1 or Tari ecuExplorer (http://www.tari.co.za/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl)


Quote:
Originally Posted by subaruwrx420
serx7...I'll keep an eye on boost for sure. The temperature does not drop much here in South Florida, but we do get some days/weeks where it drops down into the 50s and 40s. Plus, I autocross in north-central Florida where it can get cold. I have a gutted up, stromung tbe with hi-flow cat. If your boost spikes, then will the ecu cut the fuel before it becomes a problem?
Please help me with this "G duty cycle overshoot/undershoot seen in the logs so far."

I will post up a the numbers I got when I data logged or if someone can tell me where to read more about it, that would be excellent.

smeghead...do it, do it (moves head in a pointing motion)...I gained almost 2 psi when I adjusted it.

Thanks.
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Old 11-13-2005, 05:24 PM   #24
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FBC = Factory Boost Controller - ?I think?
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Old 11-15-2005, 12:25 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tortuga
FBC = Factory Boost Controller - ?I think?
Yes..
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