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Old 08-11-2005, 08:51 PM   #1
xS2k
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Default Anyone here with AutoMeter Electric Gauge with auto caliber

My brother's boost gauge is not reading VAC, and I follow every step of the instruction below.

https://ssl.autocenter.net/webparts/acatalog/page3.html

He has the autometer cobalt serious boost gauge. His car is stock Sti, and it shows boost of 25 PSI at 5k, 0 psi at idle, 0 psi at while slowing down. Basically, it doesn't go into VAC whatsoever. Anyone have any idea of why this is happening? Is it my gauge? bad fitting? I checked all hoses and fittings and it seems fine. I looked up search and my tapping location is where most members on here use. Do you think it's my gauge? How do I go about testing my car? I can snap a picture if needed...

Also installed the oil pressure gauge, what is his oil pressure suppost to read? I've seen it as high as 95 PSI at 5k in second gear and as low as 20 during idle, is this right?

thanks

UPDATE on Autometer Cobalt Boost: Found out there's nothing wrong with the hose itself. The problem is every time he turns the ignition key to position III to start the car, the gauge recalibrate itself again. Just so anyone doesn't know, the cobalt serious gauge recalibrate itself everytime it's turned on. When in position III to fire up the engine, there's a split second the gauge turns off; so when it turns back on, the engine is already running. While the engine is running, it recalibrate making a reading of "0" during -20psi vac. He tapped the three wires into the radio harness. Just to test, he turns the radio on while engine is off, turns the engine back on and the radio stops for about second. We need to find a new place to tap the wires so the gauge will not turn off during engine start so his gauge wont recalibrate itself. BTW, he drives a 05 Sti. Where is a good place to tap the continuous power and ACC? Radio? Cluster (which wire/harness)? Thanks
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Last edited by xS2k; 09-01-2005 at 01:09 AM.
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Old 08-11-2005, 10:00 PM   #2
speedyHAM
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Try fitting it to the boost sensing line coming off the front of the intake manifold and see if that works.

The oil pressure sounds correct to me, that's about what mine reads. Just tell your brother not to get on the throttle until the oil is warm, otherwise engine damage will eventually show up. You can tell that the oil is warm by the psi at idle. If it reads 20psi at a stoplight your oil is warm, if it's higher you need to let it warm up a little longer.
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Old 08-12-2005, 09:38 PM   #3
xS2k
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thanks, Do you or anyone on this forum have pictures of another position with more accurate reading?
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Old 08-31-2005, 04:21 PM   #4
xS2k
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I sent in the gauge to have it looked at, and turns out fine. I found out where the problem is. I tapped the 3 wires (ACC, continuous power, ground) into the radio harness. When I turn the key to the first position (I), the gauges readjust or calibrate itself to "0" reading. I turn it to position II and the gauges are fine again. Now, when I fire up the engine, the gauges lose power for the split second; so when the engine is up and running, the gauge again recalibrate itself. When in VAC, he's actually at "0" reading. When in boost, he's actually at 30 PSI. I need to find a new place to tab the wire. Can I tap it at the clock? Cluster? Anyone have the wire diagram for the 05 STi cluster? The autometer gauges readjusts its needle when turned on, so I need a better place to tab those wires. Any have a picture of a better location or diagram for the cluster?
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Old 09-02-2005, 06:55 AM   #5
xS2k
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Bump, anyone?
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:23 PM   #6
psun786
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yah i have the same problem.... anyone knows where to tap the power ?
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Old 10-19-2005, 08:54 PM   #7
Master2192
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I believe you tap it at the cigarette lighter
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Old 10-20-2005, 01:21 AM   #8
ChrisL2
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I've already posted a fix for this. Not sure if it was on here or on Scobbymods though.

Cigarette lighter might be ok. I know my STi lighter loses power when you turn the key though. You need to tap a constant source that doesn't lose power when you start the engine.

I used the fuse box dash illumination fuse. You might have to find something else though.

Sorry for the vauge answer.
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Old 10-20-2005, 08:46 PM   #9
woody77
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Might need a new battery.

Problem is that when you kick over the starter, the system voltage can really tank (I've seen 8v or lower sometimes on other vehicles). If the voltage is dropping far enough that it's "resetting" due to kicking over the starter, that might be hard to fix.

Much cheaper than a new battery, though, is a large 25V rated capacitor and a diode. Place the diode in the positive lead runnint to the gauge, and then attach the cap across the +/ground wires of the gauge, with the caps + lead between the diode and the gauge.

Basically, this will cause the electrical system to charge up the cap, and then when the system voltage drops, the gauge will pull current from the cap instead of the system, so long as the cap still has a higher voltage than about 0.7V less than the system voltage (diode drop). You might need about 2 seconds worth of power for the gauge, but without knowing at what voltage the gauge will "shut down", and how much current it pulls, knowing what size cap to get is kinda unknown. Might be able to experiment with it some.

I know that when I start my wrx, the inverter plugged into the cig outlet will restart, as will the radar detector. The voltage is REALLY taking a dive.
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Old 10-21-2005, 05:38 PM   #10
dantastic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woody77

I know that when I start my wrx, the inverter plugged into the cig outlet will restart, as will the radar detector. The voltage is REALLY taking a dive.

yea, voltage takes a dive to 0 at the cig outlet when the car starts. it's like that by design to ease the load on the batter. leave your headlights on and start the car. you'll see that the don't dim that much.
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Old 10-21-2005, 06:24 PM   #11
psun786
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OK, I got it fixed by tap the power to OEM dash gauge cluster fuse (lowest left in the fuse box) and now everything is fine
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Old 10-21-2005, 09:45 PM   #12
woody77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dantastic
yea, voltage takes a dive to 0 at the cig outlet when the car starts. it's like that by design to ease the load on the batter. leave your headlights on and start the car. you'll see that the don't dim that much.
Ahhhhhh. Hmmm. Gotta see if I can rewire that, then... The laptop I use for datalogging doesn't charge it's batteries any more, so I have to start the engine, boot the thing, hook it all up, and then can't shut off the engine unless I want to reboot the laptop. Or maybe I should just wire the inverter into a different feed instead of using the cig socket.

I thought that the headlights were on a delay for starting, though (my 04 doesn't seem to light them up until after it's started, but then I normally don't pause in Run, unless I'm in a diesel and know I need to warm the plugs).
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Old 10-23-2005, 12:06 AM   #13
2phless
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"Accessory" and "ignition" are two different sources of controlled power sources in every vehicle made. Then there is constant. The power supplied to your unit needs to be ignition and not accessory.

The voltage at the radio and cig lighter (AC, heater fan, power windows etc...) don't "tank" when yo ustart the car. They turn off. On purpose. So the starter gets the juice it needs to turn over the motor. The ignition feeds crucial "engine running" components like the ECU and fuel pump etc... It's all taken care of with the contacts in the ignition switch.

Everything you need is under the steering column, above the knee bolster (3 screws and some push pins) in the ignition harness, and under the search button.
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