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Old 08-23-2005, 05:58 PM   #1
Oquipah
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Default Whiteline -Rustline?

Anyone here have rust issues with Whiteline Swaybars? I do. Bought the adjustable rear swaybar for my Legacy about 3 years ago and not only is the paint gone, but it is rusting. Is this normal for these? The stock bar was on from 12/97 until the Whiteline and is fine.

Does anyone know how well Whiteline backs their products?

Peace,
Oquipah
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Old 08-23-2005, 06:06 PM   #2
Patrick Olsen
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I'm sure it's just surface rust, which has zero effect on the functionality of the bar. It just isn't as pretty. I doubt they're going to do anything for you unless the bar has signs of actual structural weakening.

With that said, my Whiteline bar's been on the car for maybe 5 years (don't remember when I upgraded from my old 18mm to this adjustable one) and it's still nice and blue. It saw a couple New England winters, then has been in sunny Hawaii since then.

Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
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Old 08-23-2005, 06:26 PM   #3
xcntrk75
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Man I hope mine doesn’t rust in a few years… Maybe it has to do with the model or year when you got the bar? The new bars all come powdercoated grey and I’d be really surprised (and pissed) if they rust…

Last edited by xcntrk75; 08-23-2005 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 08-23-2005, 06:50 PM   #4
Russell Rogers
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That rust is normal on any car street driven. Just get it sand blasted and repowdercoated.
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:27 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Rogers
That rust is normal on any car street driven. Just get it sand blasted and repowdercoated.
+1

or you could just let it look rustic.
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:35 PM   #6
Plays_With_toys
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Rogers
That rust is normal on any car street driven. Just get it sand blasted and repowdercoated.
Why powder coat when its just going to rust again. Sandblast and paint with some heavy duty paint so you can touch up on your own later. Unless there is a cheap powdercoater near you.
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:40 PM   #7
fastenova
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Powdercoating will prevent rust as long as it doesn't chip really bad or get scratched... Since it's a plastic layer over the metal, that generally is very durable, it wouldn't rust again. And if you want to paint it, check out Rustoleum. It's pretty nice paint for any exposed parts.

Was the bar powdercoated from the factory or just painted? For something that flexes (springs, swaybars, stbs) paint isn't a very good solution, because it'll flake off if the part moves much.

Powdercoating is the way to go. That's why if you want to change colors on your wheels, you get them powdercoated, not painted.

-A
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Old 08-23-2005, 07:41 PM   #8
xcntrk75
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Paint Over Rust -- POR

I've used this stuff on my Jeeps and love it..!
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Old 08-23-2005, 11:38 PM   #9
Oquipah
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Should I just to the local playground pick up a handful of sand and throw it at the bar? (I don't have a sandblaster). The bar was painted the lovely powder blue. I haven't looked at the extent of rust other than seeing that the thing is obviously completely rust covered. I think the newer bars are powdercoated, so that may quell some concerns for those with the new ones. I may opt out for just a new bar alltogether, but I'll try the sanding to see how affected the bar is. Powdecoating isn't an option either so I may try that POR. That looks like a great product (read testimonials).

Thanks for at least reassuring me that structurally I should be okay.

Peace,
Oquipah
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Old 08-24-2005, 12:03 AM   #10
fastenova
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Yeah, POR-15. Not Rustoleum. My bad. My dad's been using POR for years on his 20's and 30's Dodge Brothers restorations. It's great stuff.
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Old 08-24-2005, 02:38 AM   #11
norabder
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Well just to chime in I also have the adjustable swaybar. The newer one that is grey powdercoated whatever, and it has started to get all rusty. So your going to have to deal with it I was upset for about two minutes because unless your under there you arn't going to see it anyway.
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Old 08-24-2005, 07:36 AM   #12
Jonathan
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POR (Paint over Rust) is excellent stuff. Just dont let it get on you (it will take weeks to come off), cover it with a coat of some other paint after it dries (as it is sensitive to UV light), and when you put the lid back on the can of POR, be sure to put something (Saran wrap, tin foil) between the lid and the can or you may NEVER get the lid off of the can again (the stuff is strong and bonds like glue).
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Old 08-24-2005, 05:03 PM   #13
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Paintwork is not WL's strong suit I would say, but as posted above, its a cosmetic issue only IMO. I have the 18-22mm rear bar on mt car and I have only a small amount of surface rust. The bushings did wear the paint off at those contact points though, but they seem to stay clean due to the lubricant.

ss
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Old 08-25-2005, 11:10 AM   #14
Russell Rogers
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Powdercoat when done correctly is 30 times stronger and more scratch resistant than paint. Whitline did a crappy powdercoat job.
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Old 08-25-2005, 12:13 PM   #15
Jonathan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Rogers
Powdercoat when done correctly is 30 times stronger and more scratch resistant than paint. Whitline did a crappy powdercoat job.
True. However Powdercoating in general doesnt standup well to our local New England salt water & ice scouring that we subject our Subarus to. Australia doesn't have such conditions, therefore their parts aren't up to the conditions we subject them to.

Powdercoat paint doesnt bond correctly to metal. As soon as water & rust get in under the surface the powdercoated paint comes off just like a snakes skin. POR paint seems to bond better and even if a small area is affected and does develope rust, it doesnt spread all over.
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Old 08-25-2005, 12:29 PM   #16
subysouth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Russell Rogers
Powdercoat when done correctly is 30 times stronger and more scratch resistant than paint. Whitline did a crappy powdercoat job.
I dont think the WL parts are powdercoated. I know my powder blue version isnt. Its regular old paint.

ss
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Old 08-30-2005, 09:23 AM   #17
North Ursalia
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Back then, they painted the bars, not powedercoated them. That is the problem. The new bars are powdercoated and are much more durable. My front bar is a WL painted one (5 years old, very rusty) and my rear is 2 years old (powdercoated, still as new as the day I bought it).


Brian

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Old 08-30-2005, 05:51 PM   #18
Patrick Olsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
True. However Powdercoating in general doesnt standup well to our local New England salt water & ice scouring that we subject our Subarus to. Australia doesn't have such conditions, therefore their parts aren't up to the conditions we subject them to.

Powdercoat paint doesnt bond correctly to metal. As soon as water & rust get in under the surface the powdercoated paint comes off just like a snakes skin. POR paint seems to bond better and even if a small area is affected and does develope rust, it doesnt spread all over.
I have to question your points, Johnathan. Although we might think of Australia as the stereotypical "outback", the continent has pretty much all the extremes of climate that we have in the States.

As for powdercoat "paint" ( - powdercoat is not really paint in the conventional sense) not bonding correctly to metal, ummm, that's just wrong. The whole point of powdercoating is that it electrostatically bonds to the metal, it's not just a coating like paint is. The Navy has invested lots of $$$ in powdercoating because it is, without a doubt, more durable than paint. Every time one of the subs I've been on goes into a maintenance upkeep, one of the things the crew does is remove just about anything that can be removed so that we can get it powdercoated - lockers, hand rails, deckplate frames, topside hinged cleats, you name it, we powdercoat it.

The only disadvantage to powdercoating suspension components is that powdercoat will hide cracks in the underlying metal, while paint generally will crack along with the metal. If you have a highly stressed member (and I would say a swaybar does not fall into this category) then powdercoat might not be the best idea.

Pat
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Old 09-01-2005, 03:47 AM   #19
Jonathan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen
I have to question your points, Jonathan. Although we might think of Australia as the stereotypical "Outback", the continent has pretty much all the extremes of climate that we have in the States.

As for powdercoat "paint" ( - powdercoat is not really paint in the conventional sense) not bonding correctly to metal, ummm, that's just wrong.
My experiances with Powdercoat are rather different from yours, Pat.

Back in the late 80ies/early 90ies I installed a Warn Winch and a "modular" Warn Front bumper on my 4x4 Dodge Pickup (The bumper was/is basically three peices of heavily powdercoated thick gauge steel bolted together) and within 3-4 years rust was winning the battle. While I made some valiant efforts at maintaning the appearance of my truck over the first few years, I eventually gave up and said 'heck, its just a truck' and have let it rust.

While it is possible that the US government uses a higher quality of Powdercoating then the Warn Winch company, and that advances in technology have dramatically improved the overall durability of powdercoat "Paint" treatments over the last twenty years, my general impression is that Powdercoating doesnt stand up well to the scouring ice/snow/"salt" (actually calcium cloride ?) mixes that cars & trucks in New England are subjected to.

I appeciate the a nuclear submarine does spend considerable time being exposed to the salt water bath that our oceans are famous for, and for those conditions perhaps powdercoating makes sense.

At one point I was told (or possibly read somewhere) that these subs also have receive some sort of an electrical charge to their outer shell that is suppost to prevent galvanic action corrosion/rust from occuring. Is this true? I dont recall the details clearly.

My understanding is that the powdercoating process doesnt involve a paint brush, but is basically done in two steps: 1). Someone sprays on the "powder" material on to an electrically charged part. 2). The electrically charged part is then placed in an oven where the powder melts and flows... leaving a fairly thick, durable coat of "paint".

While Australia is indeed a fairly large continent offering many of the extreme climatic conditions we also experiance in America, I would judge that at least 95% of the Australian citizens reside in largely "coastal" communities all within ~ 150 km of the coastline. These areas are not often exposed to snow or ice although there is some exposure to salt air. These are the areas that Whiteline would have initially marketed and sold their products to.
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