Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Tuesday July 29, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Subaru Models > Legacy Forum

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-24-2005, 08:14 PM   #1
EastsideLegacy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 58806
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New york
Vehicle:
1998 RIP Legacy2.5GT
2.2L legacy wagon

Default problem with sti motor mounts

alright, so I bought the sti engine and tranny mounts . Seems the motor mounts dont fit flush on the crossmember they hit where the crossmember curves. I was lookin at it i have the engine out and theres no way the mounts will fit flush without having a little lip hitting the crossmember.

Ive been reading up on this and was wondering the people that have had the sti mounts on there engine was there a trick to getting them to sit flush or did you install with the lip hitting the crossmember.

thanx main
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
EastsideLegacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2005, 08:20 PM   #2
iamrazor
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 52324
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Pelham, NH
Vehicle:
2011 WRX LTD (FS)
1990 T30 miata

Default

good question. checked scooby mods or northursalia.coms?
iamrazor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2005, 08:33 PM   #3
EastsideLegacy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 58806
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New york
Vehicle:
1998 RIP Legacy2.5GT
2.2L legacy wagon

Default

Also does anybody have pics of the motor mounts installed ?? They just seemed too oversized to work with the legacy .
EastsideLegacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2005, 08:42 PM   #4
tora
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5851
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
09 Forester XT
+ NA Miata

Default

Do you have them the right way in or on the right side? I've installed them in '05 Leg GT's, STi's, GC's, GD's, BE/BH's, BD,BG's and so on and never had a problem. They fit, I'm guessing you just have them either backwards or have the left/right mixed up.
tora is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2005, 08:49 PM   #5
EastsideLegacy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 58806
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New york
Vehicle:
1998 RIP Legacy2.5GT
2.2L legacy wagon

Default

I deff dont have them on backwards or the left and right mixed up... this is really effin frustrating , this is why im looking to see pics just because mabe i do have somthin wrong ive tryed almost everything main... anyone know boxer4racing return policy ?

thanx main
EastsideLegacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2005, 09:45 PM   #6
iamrazor
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 52324
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Pelham, NH
Vehicle:
2011 WRX LTD (FS)
1990 T30 miata

Default

iamrazor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2005, 10:10 PM   #7
Subietonic
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 12588
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Low Country, SC
Vehicle:
Four Count 'em
GF5,BDA,BD5, BP5

Default

I purchased the STI Group N motor and transmission mounts from Dale Teague at B4R and had no install issues on my 98 BD5 LGT. Only issue has been the vibration (which is noticeable) and you either get used to it or it minimizes somewhat after some mileage.

There's no way for me to take photos but my recollection from talking to Dale T was that these are interchangeable between Subarus of the same year, e.g., 1998 Impreza to 1998 Legacy, etc., so I'm not sure if I got one specifically for my BD or not. They just worked well right out of the box.

Dale
Subietonic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2005, 10:20 PM   #8
EastsideLegacy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 58806
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New york
Vehicle:
1998 RIP Legacy2.5GT
2.2L legacy wagon

Default

Yea i was just lookin at that but doesnt seem to answer why the mount is hittin. hmm ima sleep on it and try it again in the morning mabe im just too frustrated to make it work
because i pretty much put together my whole motor today and had it on the hoist and the only thing that didnt line up right was the mounts so .... tommorows another day ...



thanks for all the help ill tell you how it turns out ..
EastsideLegacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2005, 11:20 AM   #9
bhall
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 56015
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Denver, CO
Vehicle:
No you're a towel!

Default

Tora,
What is involved in installing these in a BE? I hear you and others talk well of the upgrade but if it takes a hoist I think I may pass. Also what can I expect to pay for the engine and trans mounts?

Thanks
bhall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2005, 11:54 AM   #10
iamrazor
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 52324
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Pelham, NH
Vehicle:
2011 WRX LTD (FS)
1990 T30 miata

Default

I dont think you really need a hoist, but you will need to at least jack up the engine a bit. I'm sure a floor jack would suffice.
iamrazor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2005, 12:04 PM   #11
xcntrk75
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 60224
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: NOVA
Vehicle:
2008 FXT Sports 2.5
Dark Grey Metallic

Default

FYI: Just unbolt the old motor mounts, tranny mount, and pitch-stop then jack the motor from underneath. Any floor jack and some crap wood positioned under the oil pan will lift it nicely...
xcntrk75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2005, 12:11 PM   #12
tora
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5851
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver
Vehicle:
09 Forester XT
+ NA Miata

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bhall
Tora,
What is involved in installing these in a BE? I hear you and others talk well of the upgrade but if it takes a hoist I think I may pass. Also what can I expect to pay for the engine and trans mounts?

Thanks
Engine mounts are in the vicinity of $89USD for the set and tranny mounts are around $63. As to installation it is as above...you don't NEED a hoist but as with most installs it definitely helps. You need to prop the engine up enough to get the original mounts out and get the new ones in...I've done it on the ground and it was quite awkward compared to using a hoist. It should only be a 1hr job done at a shop or 1.5 at the most...so you can weigh if it is worth it to you to install yourself or get someone else to do it. I thought it was a great mod...I was very happy with it for the price.
tora is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2005, 12:50 PM   #13
bhall
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 56015
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Denver, CO
Vehicle:
No you're a towel!

Default

So is that 150ish for all mounts needed? I do have 4 jack stands and 2 big ass 4 ton jacks. Where do you jack the engine from cause I am guessing the oil pan is not advised
bhall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2005, 01:39 PM   #14
janikphoto
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 10471
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Dallas, TX
Vehicle:
2000 BMW Z3
sold Outback & ForesterXT

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bhall
So is that 150ish for all mounts needed? I do have 4 jack stands and 2 big ass 4 ton jacks. Where do you jack the engine from cause I am guessing the oil pan is not advised
try to jack it from any plastic or thin aluminum parts. This will assure that you will get more new parts for your engine very soon!!!
janikphoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2005, 08:51 PM   #15
xcntrk75
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 60224
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: NOVA
Vehicle:
2008 FXT Sports 2.5
Dark Grey Metallic

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bhall
...I am guessing the oil pan is not advised
I hear ya, but you need to be more realistic. We all know that lifting the motor from underneath by the oil-pan is not highly encouraged, but in reality it happens all the time. Iíve seen professional performance shops do it, fellow suby owners do it, and Iíve done it on rare occasion (i.e. engine-mounts). Unless you plan to use a hoist, how else are expecting to lift the motor with all the weight centered over the block (i.e. oil pan)?
xcntrk75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2005, 09:28 PM   #16
Subietonic
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 12588
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Low Country, SC
Vehicle:
Four Count 'em
GF5,BDA,BD5, BP5

Default

If you don't have a hoist a better alternative is to use two pieces of 2x6 nailed together to form an "L". Only backwards and upside down like this:

" |___"

The shorter 2x6 you cut to length so it rests up against the bottom of the engine crank pulley (flush against the timing belt cover for stability) and ends flush with the bottom-most point of the oil pan. You can even hollow it out a little to fit the curve of the pulley if you want but it's not necessary.

The longer 2x6 you cut to length so it rests flush against the bottom of the oil pan and ends just a little past the point where the vertical 2x6 drops down from the crank pulley.

Nail the two pieces together at this point. When you're ready to lift your engine, position the two pieces against their respective rest points and put your jack right at the point where the two pieces are nailed together. This way, the crank will do the heavy lifting but the strain will also be spread along the length of the 2x6 against the oil pan.

You won't farcle up your oil pan this way and since you only need to lift the engine a couple of inches, you'll be good to go. I have done this without my hoist, so keep an eye on the transmission to ensure that it doesn't bind as you're lifting. You may need to loosen or even remove the tranny cross member for additional maneuvering room. If you do need to undo the cross member, then make a T-shaped brace __|__ to keep the end of the tranny from dropping too low.

HTH

Dale
Subietonic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-25-2005, 10:46 PM   #17
EastsideLegacy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 58806
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New york
Vehicle:
1998 RIP Legacy2.5GT
2.2L legacy wagon

Default

Got my mounts on ... turned out the left side mount was on some sort of lip on the frame so it wouldnt drop down .

I had to push the engine with all my might from below and have some1 lower it in ....
I was just really frustrated yesterday and couldnt think about it thats why i thought it was impossible ..

Oh well im happy there in, and my cars almost all together . YEY

thanx mainnnnnnns
EastsideLegacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2005, 02:09 AM   #18
Subietonic
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 12588
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Low Country, SC
Vehicle:
Four Count 'em
GF5,BDA,BD5, BP5

Default

Yay! I knew they'd fit... you were just too tired to make it all work before.

Good luck with the rest.

Dale
Subietonic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2005, 10:32 AM   #19
bhall
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 56015
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Denver, CO
Vehicle:
No you're a towel!

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Subietonic
If you don't have a hoist a better alternative is to use two pieces of 2x6 nailed together to form an "L". Only backwards and upside down like this:

" |___"

The shorter 2x6 you cut to length so it rests up against the bottom of the engine crank pulley (flush against the timing belt cover for stability) and ends flush with the bottom-most point of the oil pan. You can even hollow it out a little to fit the curve of the pulley if you want but it's not necessary.

The longer 2x6 you cut to length so it rests flush against the bottom of the oil pan and ends just a little past the point where the vertical 2x6 drops down from the crank pulley.

Nail the two pieces together at this point. When you're ready to lift your engine, position the two pieces against their respective rest points and put your jack right at the point where the two pieces are nailed together. This way, the crank will do the heavy lifting but the strain will also be spread along the length of the 2x6 against the oil pan.

You won't farcle up your oil pan this way and since you only need to lift the engine a couple of inches, you'll be good to go. I have done this without my hoist, so keep an eye on the transmission to ensure that it doesn't bind as you're lifting. You may need to loosen or even remove the tranny cross member for additional maneuvering room. If you do need to undo the cross member, then make a T-shaped brace __|__ to keep the end of the tranny from dropping too low.

HTH

Dale

Ya so I think I will pass on the mounts I know some of you have done it and I am sure it works fine but I can not bring my self to jack on the oil pan and the 2x6 deal sounds like a good way to get in to trouble if something slips.
bhall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2005, 03:33 PM   #20
EastsideLegacy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 58806
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: New york
Vehicle:
1998 RIP Legacy2.5GT
2.2L legacy wagon

Default

You can always get someone to lift the engine out with there bear hands and hold it there until you get done
EastsideLegacy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2005, 02:13 PM   #21
janikphoto
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 10471
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Dallas, TX
Vehicle:
2000 BMW Z3
sold Outback & ForesterXT

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EastsideLegacy
You can always get someone to lift the engine out with there bear hands and hold it there until you get done

Did you really mean BEAR hands, or did you mean BARE hands?!?
janikphoto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2005, 02:28 PM   #22
bhall
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 56015
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Denver, CO
Vehicle:
No you're a towel!

Default

bhall is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2005, 03:02 PM   #23
xcntrk75
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 60224
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: NOVA
Vehicle:
2008 FXT Sports 2.5
Dark Grey Metallic

Default

There's some BEAR hands for ya...
xcntrk75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
BLOW OUT SALE! STi Motor Mounts, STi Tranny Mounts, Short Shifter combos!!! RenickMotorsports Drivetrain 76 05-04-2012 02:49 PM
Installing STi motor mounts - having problems jey Legacy Forum 10 06-06-2005 12:06 AM
STI motor mounts, Trans mount, and Pitch stop imprezzed Private 'For Sale' Classifieds 4 01-23-2004 06:45 AM
Bigger difference. Sti motor mounts or tranny mount? Code-7 Brakes, Steering & Suspension 12 07-09-2002 02:17 PM
What I would call the final word on stock vs. STi plates with STi motor mounts North Ursalia Normally Aspirated Powertrain 11 09-10-2001 06:05 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.