question on repacing heads / head gasket

Mike1967 · 08-25-2005, 11:44 AM

Does the engine have to be pulled for this job or can I get to the heads with the engine still in the car ?

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Matt Monson · 08-25-2005, 11:58 AM

Which engine? Some of the cars pulling the heads with the engine is isn't too difficult. Others, like the DOHC's, I wouldn't even think about it. The two hours it will take you to pull the engine will be made up on the back end with dismantling and building it out of the car. At this point, since I can pull the motor in under an hour, I pull it for any major work...

Mike1967 · 08-25-2005, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

Which engine? Some of the cars pulling the heads with the engine is isn't too difficult. Others, like the DOHC's, I wouldn't even think about it. The two hours it will take you to pull the engine will be made up on the back end with dismantling and building it out of the car. At this point, since I can pull the motor in under an hour, I pull it for any major work...

I have an SOHC 2.5 in a 1999 Forester

- What all needs to be removed from the engine to pull it ? ( I have started down the path already by pulling the AC condensor, radiator, battery, air filter housing, power steering pump and alternator.

- I am assuming that I would need to invest in both a "cherry picker" and an engine stand

Your thoughts/advise is greatly appreciated.

Matt Monson · 08-25-2005, 12:36 PM

Next you need to pull the heater hoses, brake booster, starter, and fuel lines. It is a good idea to disconnect the fuel pump and run the car until it dies to relieve fuel pressure before removing the lines.

From there, it is just the bolts that hold the engine to the tranny, the engine mounts themselves, and the pitch rod...

Doing a SOHC Ej25 in the car is possible, but still mostly a pain. I would remove it...

Mike1967 · 08-25-2005, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

Next you need to pull the heater hoses, brake booster, starter, and fuel lines. It is a good idea to disconnect the fuel pump and run the car until it dies to relieve fuel pressure before removing the lines.

From there, it is just the bolts that hold the engine to the tranny, the engine mounts themselves, and the pitch rod...

Doing a SOHC Ej25 in the car is possible, but still mostly a pain. I would remove it...

I will pull it.

Do I also need to remove the overhead manifold, throttle body and A/C Condensor ?

Matt Monson · 08-25-2005, 12:59 PM

The manifold can be removed after the engine is out of the car. But you will need to remove the intake plumbing and MAF, as well as the AC condensor. The condensor can just be bunjied into the corner where the battery went. It doesn't need to be vented.
And I also forgot the exhaust manifold...

Matt Monson · 08-25-2005, 01:00 PM

Oh,
And get the Chilton's guide or an FSM before you remove the heads. You want to stick to the very specific torque pattern or you risk warping the heads...

Mike1967 · 08-25-2005, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

Oh,
And get the Chilton's guide or an FSM before you remove the heads. You want to stick to the very specific torque pattern or you risk warping the heads...

I already have the Chilton.

No way I could work on cars without those wonderful books !

So do I pull the AC Condensor, overhead manifold and throttle body prior to lifting it out.

I get nervouse taking everything apart because I have to put everything back together. Tear down is easy

Matt Monson · 08-25-2005, 01:52 PM

Just the AC. Leave the rest intact...

Randoramma · 08-25-2005, 02:43 PM

Are you sure you have to pull the brake booster? Also I would pull the radiator for sure.

Matt Monson · 08-25-2005, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randoramma

Are you sure you have to pull the brake booster? Also I would pull the radiator for sure.

How would you propose to get the motor out with the booster line still attached to the back of the manifold? You just remove the line.

And he already has the radiator out. He asked what else do I need to do...

Mike1967 · 08-25-2005, 03:29 PM

I cannot get to the back passenger side bolt on the AC Condensor. It is blocked by the overhead manifold. There is not enough clearance to get a socket onto the bolt. So looks like I will have to peel a "few more layers of the onion" while the engine is still in the car.

Randoramma · 08-25-2005, 04:56 PM

Hmm, I might be confused. Are you talking about the slave cylinnder, or the brake booster which is attached to the brake petal through the firewall? For the slave cylinder, I just unbolted that but never discharged the system.

Randy

Mike1967 · 08-25-2005, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randoramma

Hmm, I might be confused. Are you talking about the slave cylinnder, or the brake booster which is attached to the brake petal through the firewall? For the slave cylinder, I just unbolted that but never discharged the system.

Randy

Im talking about the AC Condensor on the front of the engine (drivers side). It located next to the Alternator.

(oops) I just realized you were not replying to my last post. Please ignore this.

Matt Monson · 08-25-2005, 05:52 PM

Mike,
Are you trying to remove the bracket or the condensor itself? You should be able to get a box wrench onto that last rear bolt to remove the condensor. Don't try and remove the bracket. I guess if you get too frustrated, you could remove the manifold. It is coming off later anyways. Just plug the head ports to keep the crap out...

Randy,
If you look under your hood, there is a hose that runs right next to the master cylinder to the back of the manifold. That's the hose. You shouldn't have to unbolt or discharge anything. It's just got a spring loaded hose clamp on it...

Mike1967 · 08-25-2005, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

Mike,
Are you trying to remove the bracket or the condensor itself? You should be able to get a box wrench onto that last rear bolt to remove the condensor. Don't try and remove the bracket. I guess if you get too frustrated, you could remove the manifold. It is coming off later anyways. Just plug the head ports to keep the crap out...

hmmm

That is a good question. I will take a closer look tonight. I do believe that I am taking off the bracket. I thought the condensor was part of the bracket.

Mike1967 · 08-25-2005, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

The manifold can be removed after the engine is out of the car. But you will need to remove the intake plumbing and MAF, as well as the AC condensor. The condensor can just be bunjied into the corner where the battery went. It doesn't need to be vented.
And I also forgot the exhaust manifold...

Darn..I already vented the AC. No problem though....I have a vacuum. I will also need to spring for a new dryer.

I'm going to show my ignorance here....but what is intake plumbing and MAF ?

chip4761 · 08-25-2005, 08:35 PM

I thought the thing next to the alternator was the a/c compressor, and the thing that looks like a smaller radiator was the a/c condensor. I could be wrong though...

Mike1967 · 08-25-2005, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chip4761

I thought the thing next to the alternator was the a/c compressor, and the thing that looks like a smaller radiator was the a/c condensor. I could be wrong though...

Nope...you are 100% correct

08-25-2005, 11:44 AM	#1
Mike1967 Scooby Newbie Member#: 87762 Join Date: May 2005	question on repacing heads / head gasket Does the engine have to be pulled for this job or can I get to the heads with the engine still in the car ? * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

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08-25-2005, 11:58 AM	#2
Matt Monson Scooby Guru Member#: 832 Join Date: Jan 2000 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Teh Ghetto Garage, CO Vehicle: 99 2.5RS, '85 911 '73 914 and 2012 BRZ	Which engine? Some of the cars pulling the heads with the engine is isn't too difficult. Others, like the DOHC's, I wouldn't even think about it. The two hours it will take you to pull the engine will be made up on the back end with dismantling and building it out of the car. At this point, since I can pull the motor in under an hour, I pull it for any major work...

08-25-2005, 12:36 PM	#4
Matt Monson Scooby Guru Member#: 832 Join Date: Jan 2000 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Teh Ghetto Garage, CO Vehicle: 99 2.5RS, '85 911 '73 914 and 2012 BRZ	Next you need to pull the heater hoses, brake booster, starter, and fuel lines. It is a good idea to disconnect the fuel pump and run the car until it dies to relieve fuel pressure before removing the lines. From there, it is just the bolts that hold the engine to the tranny, the engine mounts themselves, and the pitch rod... Doing a SOHC Ej25 in the car is possible, but still mostly a pain. I would remove it...

08-25-2005, 12:59 PM	#6
Matt Monson Scooby Guru Member#: 832 Join Date: Jan 2000 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Teh Ghetto Garage, CO Vehicle: 99 2.5RS, '85 911 '73 914 and 2012 BRZ	The manifold can be removed after the engine is out of the car. But you will need to remove the intake plumbing and MAF, as well as the AC condensor. The condensor can just be bunjied into the corner where the battery went. It doesn't need to be vented. And I also forgot the exhaust manifold...

08-25-2005, 01:00 PM	#7
Matt Monson Scooby Guru Member#: 832 Join Date: Jan 2000 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Teh Ghetto Garage, CO Vehicle: 99 2.5RS, '85 911 '73 914 and 2012 BRZ	Oh, And get the Chilton's guide or an FSM before you remove the heads. You want to stick to the very specific torque pattern or you risk warping the heads...

08-25-2005, 01:52 PM	#9
Matt Monson Scooby Guru Member#: 832 Join Date: Jan 2000 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Teh Ghetto Garage, CO Vehicle: 99 2.5RS, '85 911 '73 914 and 2012 BRZ	Just the AC. Leave the rest intact...

08-25-2005, 02:43 PM	#10
Randoramma Scooby Newbie Member#: 60649 Join Date: Apr 2004 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: seattle Vehicle: 00RS EJ205 swap	Are you sure you have to pull the brake booster? Also I would pull the radiator for sure.

08-25-2005, 03:29 PM	#12
Mike1967 Scooby Newbie Member#: 87762 Join Date: May 2005	I cannot get to the back passenger side bolt on the AC Condensor. It is blocked by the overhead manifold. There is not enough clearance to get a socket onto the bolt. So looks like I will have to peel a "few more layers of the onion" while the engine is still in the car.

08-25-2005, 04:56 PM	#13
Randoramma Scooby Newbie Member#: 60649 Join Date: Apr 2004 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: seattle Vehicle: 00RS EJ205 swap	Hmm, I might be confused. Are you talking about the slave cylinnder, or the brake booster which is attached to the brake petal through the firewall? For the slave cylinder, I just unbolted that but never discharged the system. Randy

08-25-2005, 05:52 PM	#15
Matt Monson Scooby Guru Member#: 832 Join Date: Jan 2000 Chapter/Region: RMIC Location: Teh Ghetto Garage, CO Vehicle: 99 2.5RS, '85 911 '73 914 and 2012 BRZ	Mike, Are you trying to remove the bracket or the condensor itself? You should be able to get a box wrench onto that last rear bolt to remove the condensor. Don't try and remove the bracket. I guess if you get too frustrated, you could remove the manifold. It is coming off later anyways. Just plug the head ports to keep the crap out... Randy, If you look under your hood, there is a hose that runs right next to the master cylinder to the back of the manifold. That's the hose. You shouldn't have to unbolt or discharge anything. It's just got a spring loaded hose clamp on it...

08-25-2005, 08:35 PM	#18
chip4761 Scooby Newbie Member#: 55867 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Ashtabula, OH Vehicle: 2005 Saabaru AS	I thought the thing next to the alternator was the a/c compressor, and the thing that looks like a smaller radiator was the a/c condensor. I could be wrong though...