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Old 08-31-2005, 02:16 PM   #1
bhall
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Default Should I replace my timing belt?

So I have about 85k on my BE and I think it may be time for the timing belt. I was told it was at 60k when I first got the car but then saw 100k somewhere. So since I donít know when it is I figured I would just replace it So is this something I should do or just bring it in. I am guessing the price is a fair bit more at the dealer. From the write up on the "Waterpump" thread it does not seem to bad but reading is much easier than really working on it.

I am searching on the how to's now but wanted the general consensus on DIY or bring to the shop.

Or maybe just wait till it breaks and then I will have to replace it with a REX motor?
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Old 08-31-2005, 02:37 PM   #2
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According to subaru, its supposed to be done at the 120k service.

..I'd just let it break to give you an excuse for teh motor swap
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Old 08-31-2005, 02:52 PM   #3
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I'm @ 95k and think I'll be doing my own in the spring. it can't be too hard. Since you have to move the radiator, its a good time for a flush + fill on that too...
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Old 08-31-2005, 02:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fibuz
..I'd just let it break to give you an excuse for teh motor swap
I can always count on you for sound advice.

120k huh well I guess I will wait a bit, I kinda wanted to dig in to it.
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Old 09-01-2005, 12:16 AM   #5
Subietonic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fibuz
According to subaru, its supposed to be done at the 120k service.

..I'd just let it break to give you an excuse for teh motor swap
According to the Subaru Owner's 2002MY Federal Maintenance Schedule the replacement interval is 105,000 miles so you have ~20K of run time left.

Even if it breaks, you just replace it as the SOHC in your BE is a non-interference engine (pistons and valves cannot collide with each other). If you had a 99 BD, that would be another story all together because the DOHC IS an interference engine and you definitely don't want to let that belt break or there's all holy hella to pay.

So the good news is that you're okay if it breaks. The bad news is that it wouldn't be a reason to swap in your favorite engine conversion. On a 99 BD/BG definitely yes, on an 02 BE/BH sadly no...

Dale
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Old 09-01-2005, 03:04 AM   #6
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If you are still worried about changing it out, it isn't that hard on the SOHC. You need to pull out the fans, remove the Alt/AC belts and take off all the plastic covers. BEFORE you remove the old belt, make sure you mark the belt and the pulleys with a marker so you can count the teeth spacing when the new belt goes on. The idler pulley is the only major PITA because of a rather strong spring that you need to lean on when installing the new belt.

It's okay to change the belt a little early. Running it until it breaks is asking for trouble. The belt only breaks at the worst possible time (late for work, in the rain, middle of the highway at rush hour, full load of groceries in the trunk,etc.)
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Old 09-01-2005, 03:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subietonic

Even if it breaks, you just replace it as the SOHC in your BE is a non-interference engine (pistons and valves cannot collide with each other). If you had a 99 BD, that would be another story all together because the DOHC IS an interference engine and you definitely don't want to let that belt break or there's all holy hella to pay.

So the good news is that you're okay if it breaks. The bad news is that it wouldn't be a reason to swap in your favorite engine conversion. On a 99 BD/BG definitely yes, on an 02 BE/BH sadly no...

Dale

That is wrong. Every Subaru engine from 1999 and newer(Possibly earlier, but for sure all Phase 2 engines), whether it's Single or Dual Overhead Cam is an interference engine. I just got done fixing a mistake another shop made. This shop did a timing belt and cam seals on a 2000 Legacy (105k, replaced seals for peace of mind), and left one of the cam bolts loose... about 500 miles later, the pulley fell off on the freeway. Timing belt flew off. I knew it was an intereference engine, but I put the pully on, and installed the timing belt and the crank pulley (no covers... I knew I'd have to pull it all apart anyways). Cranked the engine over, and no compression. Did a compression test and got 0 across the board. Went ahead and pulled it out, and found found all 16 valves bent. There were valve strikes on all 4 pistons.

If that belt brakes, you ARE NOT okay. They won't hit valve to valve like the DOHC will, but they will hit valve to piston.
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Old 09-01-2005, 11:27 AM   #8
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OK so far we have:
Change the timeing belt at 105 and 120
The BE motor is interference
The BE motor is not interference

and just break it and do the swap (Fibuz)
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Old 09-01-2005, 11:56 AM   #9
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I'll second 105k

I thought all suabru motors are interference. I know the WRX is
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Old 09-01-2005, 02:06 PM   #10
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^^ this is kinda what I have heard.
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Old 09-01-2005, 02:34 PM   #11
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All the old EA motors are non-interference and some of the earlier EJ motors are as well. However, ALL the recent EJ motors are interference engines (and I assume the EZ engines are as well). This has been true from at least the mid-to-late 90s and newer, though I'm not sure exactly when the crossover was (though I know my 99RS is an interference engine (which is the same engine as the newer EJ25, except the newer ones are higher compression which actually increases the chances of interference in this situation)).

I've actually been wondering about this same topic myself (the timing belt service interval), as the 2000 Legacy GT I just picked up has 110k on it and I haven't a clue when the timing belt was last replaced on it (assuming it even has been replaced). Guess it's time to replace it then. :-/

Shane

Last edited by Warp3; 09-01-2005 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 09-03-2005, 03:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrx_driver_2002
That is wrong. Every Subaru engine from 1999 and newer(Possibly earlier, but for sure all Phase 2 engines), whether it's Single or Dual Overhead Cam is an interference engine. I just got done fixing a mistake another shop made. This shop did a timing belt and cam seals on a 2000 Legacy (105k, replaced seals for peace of mind), and left one of the cam bolts loose... about 500 miles later, the pulley fell off on the freeway. Timing belt flew off. I knew it was an intereference engine, but I put the pully on, and installed the timing belt and the crank pulley (no covers... I knew I'd have to pull it all apart anyways). Cranked the engine over, and no compression. Did a compression test and got 0 across the board. Went ahead and pulled it out, and found found all 16 valves bent. There were valve strikes on all 4 pistons.

If that belt brakes, you ARE NOT okay. They won't hit valve to valve like the DOHC will, but they will hit valve to piston.
You are absolutely correct on the interference information. From 99 on 2.2L SOHC are interference engines. My apologies... I was just talking to a guy about his 96 2.2L and didn't disengage from that conversation before adding the part about interference on this thread. Again, my apologies.

Dale (looking for extractor to pull head from butt)
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Old 09-04-2005, 11:45 AM   #13
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Do it yourself, not that difficult. I can do it with basic hand tools and a set of costom made cam keepers (for the DOHC) in about 2 hours. And REPLACE your belt tensioner, I reused and it lets me know.
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Old 09-07-2005, 01:08 PM   #14
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if you are really worried about it, its not that hard to inspect it.
just take off all drive belts, take out the cooling fans and remove the timing belt covers. this will take a good 45 min.
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Old 09-07-2005, 02:18 PM   #15
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I am not worried per se but I would like to do it prior to 100k. But if I am going to take it half way apart and spend 45 min I think I will just replace it. Anyone have a list of parts needed? Gaskets, seals etc. Also do you think I should replace the water pump and drive belts at the same time?
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Old 09-08-2005, 10:57 AM   #16
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+1 for changing the water pump at the same time. IIRC, if the water pump were to fail after the new timing belt, you would have do the job over again (minus buying the new belt).
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