Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Thursday July 31, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Normally Aspirated Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-09-2005, 12:50 PM   #1
josh04
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 89288
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
2002 Rex

Default Need help about engine problem???

OK, at first my car started to over heat when I was in Salt Lake city, then after I pulled over to see what is going on it sounded like some one through a rock in my engine. Well a couples days later when I got it back on base. My supervisor I and went to go work on my car. We found out the rock noise was just a screw that got loose behind one of the cam gears. Well the only problem is that we had to take of the timing belt. We we have been going by the book, but we keep thinking that we are off by one gear. Because my car runs like a big v8 when it's at low idle of about 700rpms. But when it's about 1,000 or more it sounds just fine execept like there is more noise coming from the drivers side than the other side of the engine. I'm thinking that we could be off by one or too teeth on the drivers side. My car also just through a CEL when we changed it. I reset the ECU, but it's still there. And my car is over heating still, but not as fast. We think it's that thermostat because I had a like chunks of crap in my radiator from the prior owners of my car. What do you guys think is the PROBLEM? And after I fix my timing belt I'm going to run a compression test just to make sure everything is good.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
josh04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2005, 07:25 AM   #2
specialev
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90156
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Auburn, Wa
Vehicle:
1986 Syncro Vanaru
07 SV650

Default

What was the CEL that your car threw? If you don't know you should get it pulled for you it. It would help in the discourse WRT a solution and in your own analysis of the problem at hand.
specialev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2005, 07:09 PM   #3
josh04
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 89288
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
2002 Rex

Default

I ended up going to autozone and told me it was a miss fire in cylinder 2. What do you guys think the problem might be.

Last edited by josh04; 09-10-2005 at 09:48 PM.
josh04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2005, 12:29 PM   #4
FalconRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 92913
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Vehicle:
2005 2.5RS Wagon
Crystal Grey Metallic

Default

Misfire on cylinder 2 and overheating? Dare I suggest a pooched head gasket? I know that's definitely what you don't wanna hear, but somebody's gotta bring up a worst-case scenario.
FalconRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2005, 02:22 PM   #5
josh04
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 89288
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
2002 Rex

Default

I highly doubt it's a headgasket do to the other checks I've done on it. I'm pretty sure it the thermostat.
josh04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2005, 02:33 PM   #6
specialev
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 90156
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Auburn, Wa
Vehicle:
1986 Syncro Vanaru
07 SV650

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by josh04
I highly doubt it's a headgasket do to the other checks I've done on it. I'm pretty sure it the thermostat.
So you did a cylinder compression test and a cooling system pressure test and they both were good?

Misfires have been a headache for me and many others, I haven't been able to get rid of mine, at least not the code as I can feel nothing wrong with the car. Let us know how you fix it when you do.

-Goodluck!
specialev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2005, 03:20 PM   #7
josh04
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 89288
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
2002 Rex

Default

No I haven't done that, but things like exhaust color, oil contamination, and bubbles in the resevoir. And my car runs like it has a huge v8 in it at idle.
josh04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2005, 03:23 PM   #8
98subyrezaRS
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 89505
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Brasher Falls, NY
Vehicle:
1998 Impreza 2.5 RS
Black Diamond Pearl

Default

how often should i change my oil with pretty spirited driving...running part sythetic in a NA 2.5?
98subyrezaRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2005, 03:39 PM   #9
goNads
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 61888
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Gabriel, CA
Vehicle:
2003 Outback Sport
Midnight Black Pearl

Default

~3k

i do mine every 3k almost regardless of oil or type of driving. i've gone 5k and it didn't seem to matter.

i'm just more comfortable with every ~3k.
goNads is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2005, 07:12 PM   #10
cjfike
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 60116
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: (ab)Normal IL
Vehicle:
1999 RS Coupe
Silver Thorn

Default

get rid of the part synthetic oil. Part synthetic oil is like buying your wife a mink coat with a OD green nylon hood. Trimmed with mongolian dog hair even.
cjfike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2005, 09:03 PM   #11
FalconRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 92913
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Vehicle:
2005 2.5RS Wagon
Crystal Grey Metallic

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by josh04
No I haven't done that, but things like exhaust color, oil contamination, and bubbles in the resevoir. And my car runs like it has a huge v8 in it at idle.
So you're saying you have a very rough idle? That's not another sign of a headgasket leak.

I've had headgaskets go where there was no oil contamination, but rough idle, overheating, misfires, all point to headgasket. Incidentally I blew a HG on my last car and the signs were similar to yours. It had a catless exhaust with headers and the exhaust didn't change color but there was a little more water coming out and a little more fog. Was a very small leak in the headgasket, but initially it started out the same as yours. I wouldn't rule out a bad headgasket if I were you. I'm not saying it definitely IS the problem, but it's definitely a possibility. A cam gear being off a notch won't cause the overheating though it will cause all your other symptoms. Just saying, the blown HG will cause ALL the symptoms you're having.
FalconRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2005, 10:39 PM   #12
Mike1967
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 87762
Join Date: May 2005
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by josh04
No I haven't done that, but things like exhaust color, oil contamination, and bubbles in the resevoir. And my car runs like it has a huge v8 in it at idle.
Josh

My 2.5 SOHC recently had a blown headgasket and warped heads....just finished putting everything back together.

My exhaust color, oil, and reservoir were also fine. I actually had someone do a carbon test on my radiator and it came back negative. My car ran fine..idled great...but would overheat after driving about 10 miles.

I would recommend a compression test....could be blown gasket and/or warped heads
Mike1967 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-11-2005, 11:09 PM   #13
FalconRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 92913
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Vehicle:
2005 2.5RS Wagon
Crystal Grey Metallic

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1967
Josh

My 2.5 SOHC recently had a blown headgasket and warped heads....just finished putting everything back together.

My exhaust color, oil, and reservoir were also fine. I actually had someone do a carbon test on my radiator and it came back negative. My car ran fine..idled great...but would overheat after driving about 10 miles.

I would recommend a compression test....could be blown gasket and/or warped heads
Agreed. Definitely worthwhile to do a simple test to at least rule out the worst-case-scenario.
FalconRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2005, 02:13 AM   #14
00Maddog
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 62410
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: land of awd
Vehicle:
2004 ra'd redrex in
8k w/ STI kit :) DASH

Default

when the dohc's blow headgaskets, it can be very difficult to tell. the best easy evidence you can find is a dark stained overflow tank. sometimes that's all you get except for overheating. I've had em pass compression, leak down, coolant pressure, and normal driving, and still leak under a load for a while. thing is though, number 1 and 3 are the common ones. so you should correct the known bads before going further. a common characteristic of miss-timed cams is a wierd powerband, either low or high depending on the case. sounds like the exhaust cam on the lower drivers side is 1 tooth advanced. you are using the marks on the belt to time it, correct? cause sometimes the pulley marks aren't perfect with the covers.

to remove debris from the cooling system, while the t-stat is out, unhook the bypass hose (5/8"s hose on the water pump) and hook a garden hose directly to it with a connector or flush tee. run the water till the runoff from the lower hose and engine is clear. when filling add unmixed coolant to compensate for the water trapped in the heater core. then top off with water.

also shine a flashlight through your radiator fins to ensure they're not clogged with dirt.
fans working well?
00Maddog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2005, 02:39 AM   #15
Chi_San
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 53558
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Deadford, OR
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wagon
Silver

Default

Fans not working would cause it to overheat when not moving, but when at anything over 20 mph, it wouldn't overheat.
Chi_San is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2005, 05:44 PM   #16
solbey11
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 89234
Join Date: Jun 2005
Default

In my opinion, I would pull the timing belt covers back off of it and check the timing belt. Cylinder 2 is on the driver's side. If it is off a tooth or two it will cause a check engine light on the side it's off. I've seen this before. I would buy a new SUBARU timing belt. Not an aftermarket one. The Subie timing belts have marks on them that line up with the cam sprockets and notches on the timing belt covers. Once installed spin the crank pulley 180 degrees right then 180 degrees left. Then recenter the crank pulley so the marks are lined up. Check to make sure all cam markings are still lined up. The fact that you could pull your own timing belt and replace it means that you can replace a thermostat. They are so easy. After you get the old one out heat it with a torch, lighter, or boil it to see if it opens up at all. It still could be a head gasket problem though.
solbey11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2005, 09:27 PM   #17
Mike1967
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 87762
Join Date: May 2005
Default

I actually pulled my thermostat completely and ran w/o it to see if my overheat was caused by a faulty thermostat.

If it is the T-Stat...then the car should run fine if you take it out.

Mine still ran hot after this test.

I also had somoene tell me that the radiator cap could be the culprit. That is another cheap easy option to check for
Mike1967 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2005, 09:38 PM   #18
00Maddog
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 62410
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: land of awd
Vehicle:
2004 ra'd redrex in
8k w/ STI kit :) DASH

Default

a car can overheat with no t-stat, cause the coolant flows too fast to achieve decent thermal transfer.
00Maddog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2005, 12:13 AM   #19
josh04
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 89288
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
2002 Rex

Default

Well I ended up messing with the plugs on my car and the spark plug wire on cylinder 2 wasn't in all the way. So I pushed it all the way and it fixed the CEL but for some reason it sounds really weird like more engine noise than normal. And it idles like crap. It feels like a giant engine in my car at like 800rpms. But I'm waiting to do the thermostat when I get paid.
josh04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2005, 02:19 AM   #20
FalconRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 92913
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Vehicle:
2005 2.5RS Wagon
Crystal Grey Metallic

Default

Isn't a thermostat like 10 bucks?
FalconRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2005, 08:01 AM   #21
josh04
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 89288
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
2002 Rex

Default

yeah but I am doing other things to my car to. like struts for the rear ended etc...
josh04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2005, 10:50 AM   #22
FalconRS
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 92913
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Winnipeg, MB
Vehicle:
2005 2.5RS Wagon
Crystal Grey Metallic

Default

I repeat...

Quote:
Originally Posted by FalconRS
Isn't a thermostat like 10 bucks?
FalconRS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2005, 11:36 AM   #23
Mike1967
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 87762
Join Date: May 2005
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00Maddog
a car can overheat with no t-stat, cause the coolant flows too fast to achieve decent thermal transfer.
THANKS !

That is good information to know.
Mike1967 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Swapped engines, now need help isolating idle problem smokybay Impreza Forum 2 07-27-2007 06:06 PM
need help with engine problem legacytuner671 Service & Maintenance 3 01-23-2007 08:36 PM
need help with engine swap, need clutch alignment tool simprezl25 Mid Atlantic Impreza Club -- MAIC 5 06-21-2006 12:37 AM
Gurus... I Need Help with Engine Problem zombiedog Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain 12 02-17-2004 12:38 PM
need suggestions about engine problem Guipo Normally Aspirated Powertrain 5 11-07-2002 07:30 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.