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Old 09-12-2005, 06:15 PM   #1
Whiteghost 2.5
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Default EJ2.2T build up advice

I have the block all ready to be built, but i do not know if I want to go with bigger pistons or not. I would like to get some advice from some guys who have bored the 2.2. I am looking at going with 100mm pistons. Would going with bigger pistons give me more low end power because of the increased displacement? I will be using a phase I 2.5 crank. I want to build a great auto-x engine, with good response. Any suggestions and info would be greatly appreciated.

thanks


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Old 09-13-2005, 12:16 AM   #2
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well, boring the pistons will give more instant power, and stroking also gives more torque...there are pistons made however for your situation...the EJ25 crank and EJ22 block...look at what wiseco has...I posted the stuff on here just recently but don't recall what thread
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Old 09-13-2005, 08:46 AM   #3
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Homemade's statement is correct. I would also recommend increasing the compression ratio a bit. Depending on your goals, and maximum boost, you could use 8.5:1 - 9.0:1

Also, if going to make lots of power, I would recommend sleeving the block.

Last edited by Julio; 02-02-2006 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 09-13-2005, 01:49 PM   #4
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i am not going for massive power so sleeving is not an Issue, tho I looked into it. Yeah I am looking to go with wiesco pistons.

Thanks


Josh
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Old 09-27-2005, 03:19 PM   #5
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does the 2.2 shortblock bolt right up to wrx heads, if not what do u do about that?
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Old 09-27-2005, 04:27 PM   #6
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Yes, it bolts right up. One thing hat many s eems to forget is the EJ22T bloc only has one "hole" to bolt the starter. There are some ways around this though.
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Old 10-03-2005, 11:42 PM   #7
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i have heard the EJ20G heads are an awesome improvment, no need to even reroute oil or coolant lines because they are already there for the turbo.

also remember, for low end grunt, the EJ22T makes its 181 stock torque at 2800 rpm... thats pretty good low end.
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Old 10-04-2005, 12:27 AM   #8
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wrx heads will bolt up to the block but you need the wrx intake manifold to bolt to the heads. If your using the ecu for the EJ22T like out of the legacy SS, you'll need to weld timing marks on the cam sprocket if i remember correctly.
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Old 10-10-2005, 08:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julio
Homemade's statement is correct. I would also recommend increasing the compression ratio a bit. Depending on your goals, and maximum boost, you could use 8.5:1 - 9.0:1

Also, if going with bigger pistons, and will make lots of power, I would recommend sleeving the block.

Hmm, I'd say it's the other way around. If you want to go with big power you should lower the compression.

These EJ22T block are closed deck and don't need sleeved (unless you overbore to the extreme). They can handle more boost then you can shake a stick at.
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Old 10-10-2005, 02:40 PM   #10
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Did noone catch that's he's talking about overboring to 100mm? You can't do that without re-sleeving the block. You can only go .5mm over stock without resleeving. But why would you bother? If you are going that route, get an Ej257 block to start with...
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Old 10-13-2005, 03:03 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julio
Yes, it bolts right up. One thing hat many s eems to forget is the EJ22T bloc only has one "hole" to bolt the starter. There are some ways around this though.

Wow are you serious about the starter, i never new about this, and i never really would of known till i went to install my 2.2T into my wrx. So how do i get around this??

Thanks
Mario
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Old 10-13-2005, 09:14 AM   #12
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Matt Monson: Yes, I did, that is why I wrote my post.

Mario03WRX: Use a helicoil. Don't worry, it happened to many that went that route.
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Old 10-24-2005, 01:47 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julio
Matt Monson: Yes, I did, that is why I wrote my post.

Mario03WRX: Use a helicoil. Don't worry, it happened to many that went that route.


Whats a Helicoil???
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:56 AM   #14
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A Helicoil is a round coiled spring that is threaded into tapped holes that make them much stronger than the standard hole alone. You drill the hole, tap it to the proper size for the Helicoil, then thread the helicoil in. The bolt just threads in as normal.

Bryan
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Old 10-24-2005, 12:06 PM   #15
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[quote=Julio]Matt Monson: Yes, I did, that is why I wrote my post.
[quote]

Yeah, but did you see his response? You suggested sleeving his block but you didn't explain to him that he CANNOT bore to 100mm. He MUST use sleeves if he wants that displacement...
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Old 10-27-2005, 09:24 PM   #16
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I will be sleeving the block
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Old 10-28-2005, 09:09 AM   #17
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Matt:

No, I did not saw his response... I just replied the post below his, after I received an email notification.

It is basic mechanical knowledge that he needs to sleeve if going over 97 - 99.5mm (depending on block). Though he never assured he is going to use 100mm. It seems that you assumed he is going with 100mm. He said that he is "looking to use 100mm"

But I give you a point that my repy was not clear enough either and I assumed he already knows this basics.

It has been a while I have not replied in these forums. Many flame because false assumptions, (this is not the case) and keep many people away from posting. Guess I will follow the same route and keep away.



[quote=Matt Monson][quote=Julio]Matt Monson: Yes, I did, that is why I wrote my post.
Quote:

Yeah, but did you see his response? You suggested sleeving his block but you didn't explain to him that he CANNOT bore to 100mm. He MUST use sleeves if he wants that displacement...

Last edited by Julio; 10-28-2005 at 09:18 AM.
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Old 10-28-2005, 10:31 AM   #18
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Julio,
I think this board suffers a loss of a significant knowledge base without folks like younot around here anymore. You should post more often. But why are you so sensitive? I commented only because your statement was incomplete and could be misconstrued without clarification. It wasn't meant as a flame on you...

And I will let you know that assuming someone around here knows the basics these days is a stretch. There is a whole new generation of guys discovering these cars who need to be educated from the ground up. This isn't any sort of flame on them either. Guys like you and me were not born with some innate knowledge of things EJ. I do hope you decide to come post more often. There are a lot of people that could benefit from it...
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Old 10-28-2005, 12:59 PM   #19
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Matt:

No, no, no.. Please do not misunderstand me.. Under no circumstances I am saying you are flaming...

You are correct about the "assumption issue" around here. Don't worry, I'll try to keep around. It was just a while since I logged-in to participate actively in an interesting post.

I really appreciate your understanding and your words. Hope we could find more of such fine people in here. Good work!
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Old 10-28-2005, 01:13 PM   #20
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Thanks for the compliment. I really do try. I try not to treat anyone like a dumbarse just because they are learning, and like you, I am kind of selective which threads and builds I really get involved in. Anyone can put a vf-30 on their WRX and reflash it and post their dyno numbers. I like the guys going outside the box to do unique builds. And of course, some of them have been done before, but not recently. I try to help guys keep from reinventing the wheel if they don't have to...
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Old 10-28-2005, 01:56 PM   #21
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well, in that case I have a question that everybody keeps giving me bull**** answers too. I am looking into swaping the heads on my N/A 2.2L with 99+ rs 2.5L heads. To my understanding these heads are much much more efficient flow- wise, and have a much more spohistocated valve train (roller cam and soldi lifter system). After telling lots off people about this, I eventualy found out that I will also need the intake manifold. Other wise, is this just a bolt up from there? This is the exten of my knowledge about this. Assume that I have no idea what is going on. Personaly I have rebuilt some chevy 350s and lots of lawnmowers, but I have never torn down a Subaru engine.
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Old 10-28-2005, 02:05 PM   #22
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the heads I want to get off of the N/A Impreza rs will be SOHC and I guess Subaru started making those in 1999. Is this true? I'm looking for 99 and newer? I know also that I will need new studs (which I am getting from ARP), and I am also getting aftermarket head gaskets that are a few thousanths thinner to up the compression. The combustion chamber is supposed to be the same size for my current heads and the newer heads (33cc), but the newer heads are supposed to be shaped better to provide higher compression while requiring lower octane. In addition, the valves are much lager on the newer heads. Thats where I stand so far. I am just trying to find out as much as I can before I do this so that I can do the best I can to prevent my self from breaking something. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-28-2005, 02:41 PM   #23
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The SOHC Ej25 heads have a 45cc combustion chamber. With your bottom end, you will be getting around 8.5:1 CR. Even with a thinner gasket, you likely won't get it back up over 9:1. And since you have a phase I engine, you can't use thinner gaskets anyways. You will bend valves...

Beyond that, you do not need new bolts (you have bolts right now, not studs) The factory bolts are re-useable. And you need the intake manifold for the Ej25 heads. You were correctly informed that the bolt pattern is different.

So, where does that leave you? head over to the Normally Apsirated forum and do a search for "high compression frankenstein" That's an Ej25 bottom end with your heads. Add some Delta cams and you will be at 185-190chp...
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Old 11-11-2005, 11:07 PM   #24
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Is this motor going to be turboed
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