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Old 10-22-2005, 08:54 PM   #1
Freon
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Default Full DIY: GM solenoid install (56k warning)

First, thanks to all those who participated in the discussion of this mod, those who posted part #'s, tried it out first, etc. To help out, I'm going to cover the whole setup, top to bottom in a nice single post to help those out who are going to do this in the future. It would have helped me to have all this info in one post. I take no credit for figuring any of this stuff out or pioneering any part of this mod.

Parts: GM boost solenoid for Typhoon, GM Part # 1997152
Pigtails, GM Part # 12102747
Extra vacuum hose (I used about 3 feet, purchased 4 feet from Autozone for $3.35)
I did not use any restrictors. I don't believe they are necessary at all with a blocking-type setup, which is what I went for. You could potentially use one or two, but I won't be covering that.


The solenoid:
Port 1: Silver plug, by itself on one end.
Port 2: Opposite port, next to port 3
Port 3: Comes with a small filter on it.

I don't believe the solenoid is polarity sensitive, but there is a small + on the case of the solenoid. I didn't go out of my way to test this. I hooked up the + to the yellow line.

At rest: Port 1 and 2 allow air to pass. No air can travel from Port 1 to 3, or 2 to 3.

Energized: Port 2 and 3 allow air to pass. No air can pass from 1 to 2 or 1 to 3.

Port 1: To turbocharger, or optionally another line on the charge air side.
Port 2: To wastegate
Port 3: Back into intake, after the MAF.

Port 3 (optional): Just vent to atmosphere, but you should put a filter on it in case of reversal of flow. The GM solenoid comes with a small filter on this port out of the box, so just leave it on if you wish to port to atmosphere. You will need to block off the line that goes to your intake, though, as it exists in the stock system. Personally, since the line is already on the car, I say go ahead and use it. It is "technically" the right thing to do in a MAF, metered air system.

So a little background on how this works...

At rest, the solenoid allows the wastegate to see all boost pressure.

When energized, the solenoid blocks pressure from the charge air from reaching the WG, so the WG sees the pressure from the intake or atmosphere. The moment after the solenoid is energized, any air pressure on the wastegate blows back out to the intake/atmosphere, releaving any air pressure on the wastegate.

Downsides: If the solenoid fails in the energized position, your wastegate will NOT open. However, the same general risk is present with the stock solenoid in a bleed setup. If it somehow fails in the energized position, it will bleed as much air as the stock restrictor will allow, but never absolutely stop pressure from getting to the WG. Failure in the energized state of either setup will cause massive overboost problems. Overall I'm going to say the risk is similar.

Stock setup, bracket pulled back (three bolts):


Stock BCS removed from car. Take one of the rubber grommets for when you mount the new GM solenoid. If you don't, you'll hear the clicking sound of the solenoid inside the car.


Pictures of the "test" setup. I just mounted it on top. It is easier to see here and was easier to work on, but still secure. With it mounted here, I could hear the BCS click loudly from inside the car. I think this is actually preferrable for testing. Roll up your windows, turn your stereo off.




After confirming it works and doing a quick detune on the boost map, I mounted it in the final location. As above, I used one of the rubber grommets from the stock BCS and mounted it in the stock location on the top of the two stock BCS mounting bolts.
I soldered the pigtails to the factory harness just above the factory plug. I decided to leave the factory plug in place and covered it with electrical tape to protect it. This will allow the replacement of the factory BCS later if needed.



Quick word on tuning:
This will make your current boost map OBSOLETE. You must retune boost. If you have no way to tune your boost map, you should NOT do this mod. UTEC users, go for it. I suggest raising the Boost Gain by at least 5 right off the bat, and reduce the boost map by 25% to start, then work from there. I went from 400 @ 3000, 350 @ 6500 to about 330 @ 3000 and 280 @ 6500 for reference. I moved boost gain from 50 to 55. I still have a lot of tuning to do, but that will give you a general idea where to start. I also had to taper down faster at low TPS.

I'm not a Cobb AP expert, but I would think you will need ST to retune your boost. Do not just do this mod with a simple Stage 1 or 2 reflash! You will overboost like crazy, maybe popping your motor.

Either way, you absolutely MUST have some way of retuning boost for this mod.

Results? I'm still tuning the map, but I think I'm seeing an easy 200-300rpm gain in spool on my stock VF39. I will hopefully be going to the track this coming Tuesday and will have some very comparable dragstrip UTEC logs. I expect a big gain in lower gears. We'll see!

Other note: Some people have suggested putting a 10ohm resistor in line with the new GM boost solenoid, since its resistance is about 10ohms less than the stock solenoid. This resistor will ensure the current draw of the new solenoid is not higher than the stock solenoid. You can do this at your disgression. UTEC users should probably not worry about it too much, because the UTEC's solenoid output has plenty of current capability.


Another FAQ/DIY online:
http://www.tarmacwolf.org/dokuwiki/d...boost_solenoid

May 26, 2007: Added 4 port with EWG FAQ/DIY in post #202
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...&postcount=202
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Last edited by Freon; 06-26-2011 at 01:55 PM. Reason: fixed image links
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Old 10-22-2005, 09:47 PM   #2
gpatmac
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Excellent contribution bump.

So, the T, whether with restrictor bb or without, is eliminated?
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Old 10-22-2005, 10:11 PM   #3
Freon
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There is no T anymore. The wastegate and turbo each get a line straight to the solenoid. All the connections happen at the solenoid.

I didn't seem to have any brass restrictor in my stock system, though. Just a single T and one end-to-end connector. I did use the end-to-end connector. You can see it on my vent back to the intake, where my aftermarket vacuum hose and a piece of the stock vacuum hose connect, right above the turbo, behind the small coolant tank). No brass anything in my system... I never had any trouble holding boost, though.

My leftover parts included the vacuum T, the two short hoses that it connects to, the larger vacuum hoses that connect to the stock BCS along with their big to little hose adapters, and another medium length piece of vacuum hose.

I just ran around the block again to check levels. I'm still boosting higher than I want, but getting slower response and no spikes. It in fact rolls slowly up to about 17-18psi. I'm going to lower my boost gain a bit to speed up spool and lower my boost map values to get it back down to the overall peak level I want. Got my first 6 count ever.
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Old 10-22-2005, 10:20 PM   #4
Rickyh
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I've been using that setup for at least 6 months and it works sooooo much better than the stock bcs/abc that the utec uses.
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Old 10-23-2005, 04:05 AM   #5
0db
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What'd the solenoid and pigtail cost you? I'm considering buying one to run with my AEM EMS... it doesn't care for the stock BCS at all.
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Old 10-23-2005, 07:22 PM   #6
Freon
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It was $41.37 total shipped from newgmparts.com. The pigtail was $19 of that,plus $7 S&H. You might want to call around your local dealerships and see if they can get it cheaper. Even with the price, for the gain I think it was a great deal. Especially compared to some of the tuner brandname pieces which are twice the price.

I'm still playing with it. Boost gain down to 53 and still detuning the map. Had it fluctuate up and down from 18 to 15 and back once, but it seems to be working better now.
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Old 10-23-2005, 09:13 PM   #7
0db
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Oh, that's a great deal. I need to get that and a GM IAT sensor asap so I can switch back to my AEM and get my setup all dialed in. My boost log is like a 3 psi sine wave with the AEM and stock BCS because it's so nonlinear that no closed-loop strategy can make head or tails of it.
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Old 10-24-2005, 05:14 PM   #8
Zola
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Good writeup and pics. I have this thing sitting in a bag on my dining room table and have been lazy about finally putting it in. This might be just the kick in the pants I need!
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Old 10-24-2005, 07:13 PM   #9
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Nice write-up. Thanks.
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Old 10-27-2005, 02:05 PM   #10
RiftsWRX
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Yep, we're pretty much making these mandatory installs since we found out that Subaru superceeded the parts for the restrictor pill.

The 02-04 pills allowed for pretty good boost control (thus why I had never needed it), but now, if it's an '05, or one who lost their pill, we simply just install these and tune them.

SOOOO much simpler in the end now.

... and yes, I was one of the biggest proponents against needing these, but now it's kinda worked out in the end.

Great write up!

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com
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Old 10-27-2005, 02:17 PM   #11
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How would this compare to using the Perrin EBCS? Similar effects?

Kevin
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Old 10-27-2005, 02:29 PM   #12
RiftsWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazykev
How would this compare to using the Perrin EBCS? Similar effects?

Kevin
Identical.... 1/4 the cost..

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com
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Old 10-27-2005, 02:32 PM   #13
Crazykev
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Cool! Thanks Jorge!
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Old 10-27-2005, 02:37 PM   #14
Sharky NRK
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if say you have a profecb from an earlier mod installed, is there any reason to expect bette response from running this soleniod in conjunction with your em or just leave the profecb controlling boost in conjunction with your em
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Old 10-27-2005, 03:11 PM   #15
offset
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftsWRX
Identical.... 1/4 the cost..

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com
I think the Perrin does have some better electrical connections or something

offset
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Old 10-27-2005, 03:41 PM   #16
ride5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offset
I think the Perrin does have some better electrical connections or something

offset
is the perrin an oem part on a vehicle?

(rhetorical question)
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Old 10-27-2005, 05:33 PM   #17
Freon
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I'm not familiar with the ProfecB, but I would say you would want to do this mod if you are using an aftermarket boost controller if the kit does not come with its own solenoid. If the kit does come with the solenoid and it is a 3-port, you can probably install it the same way. I'd still follow the instructions with your kit, though.

The polarity of duty cycle is the same. Energized is to build boost, at rest is to lower boost and/or run wastegate spring pressure. The basic mechanics are the same, but your duty cycles or map values may not need to be as high as a bleed-type setup.

I finished tuning my boost map. I ended up about -50 across the RPM range. I'm going to try moving boost gain down a notch at a time. Right now at 53 I have no spike if I roll-in to boost. I can notice in my logs that boost build slows down a lot right about 14psi, then slowly works its way up to my midrange target of 17.5, so I'm pretty sure I can tweak a lower boost gain and improve response more without spike.

So far I'd say it is still a tad more responsive, but I definitely can build boost at lower RPM in higher gears. I can hit 1bar in 4th gear at 2800rpm if I punch it at 2000rpm. I think I can even hit 16 psi at about 2600rpm in 6th gear if I want. I found out that I needed to retune my 80% load site at 2250-3000. Never hit it before!

Off the top of my head, I seem to remember someone saying the Perrin unit is a Grainger part. Pop "grainger" into search.
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Old 10-28-2005, 05:28 AM   #18
Sharky NRK
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well I have had the profec installed for a long time and it works flawlessly, but if it is not too much trouble to adjust the map for a cheaper gm soleniod setup and use the utec to control boost (previously used unichip base map and profec b to adjust boost) I will sell the profec b
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Old 10-29-2005, 08:23 AM   #19
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Run for a few months now. Noticed something just now as I replied to a PM. My peak boost is exactly (or damn close to exactly) where it was before the weather got drasticly colder. And here the weather changed from mildly uncomfortably warm, to very uncomfortably cold in one afternoon. If I were still running the AVCR or the ProfecB I'd still be wrestling the boost under control.

Peaks on maps that were 19 are still 19, 21 still 21. The plateaus are still smooth and no longer or shorter than when it was hot out. I'm very pleased.

As far as cost, I walked into a local dealer and gave them $14 and change for the unit. They didn't have the harness, which I'd like, but I made my own without any issues.

edit: I also have raised my gain (55 from...47 I think was the previous solid setting) and am happy with the occasional .5 psi spike which rarely touches the 100% column I've prepared for that event. I run the 10 ohm resistor, and I installed a diode across the leads (band to + side) to protect the UTEC a bit more. Not sure if either is needed of course, just added precautions. And, yeah, the solenoid has no polarity as far as I've encountered.

Last edited by 2phless; 10-29-2005 at 08:34 AM.
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Old 10-29-2005, 11:51 AM   #20
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Put this on Scoobymods too.
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Old 11-01-2005, 11:50 AM   #21
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$34.73 shipped from Rockauto. Search on part numbers below

ACDELCO solenoid part # 214474
ACDELCO ABS modulator pigtale part # PT374

Missed this for my order, but found at Fatwallet (5% off order):

"Here's how it works:

- You give this discount code: 313333189915 to friends, neighbors, relatives,
the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks.
- When someone (including yourself) places an order at www.rockauto.com and
enters your discount code, he or she will receive an immediate 5% discount on
that order.
* If you are using our Java Catalog, enter your discount code in the "How did
you hear about us" line of the shopping cart
* If you are using our non-Java Catalog, enter your the discount code in the
"Discount Code" field of the Shopping Cart and click "Calculate Discount"
- The discount code expires on December 13, 2005; so don't wait!

You may use this discount code as often as you wish until it expires, but only
one discount code can be used per order.

**Each month we see people who put the word "discount" in front of their code
and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code.**

Please call or email if you have questions or suggestions. Thanks again for
buying your auto parts at RockAuto! "


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Old 11-01-2005, 12:09 PM   #22
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LMAO
This is starting to catch on again.

TMS
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Old 11-01-2005, 01:21 PM   #23
fmowry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMadScientist
LMAO
This is starting to catch on again.

TMS
Because it's an issue that didn't exist with the 04s

"The 02-04 pills allowed for pretty good boost control (thus why I had never needed it), but now, if it's an '05, or one who lost their pill, we simply just install these and tune them."

It's catching on with me because I'll be running more boost with alky on my green. Currently the stocker is fine.

Frank
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Old 11-01-2005, 01:34 PM   #24
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The reason I am laughing is that this "mod" is almost 2 years old now.


TMS
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Old 11-01-2005, 02:35 PM   #25
fmowry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMadScientist
The reason I am laughing is that this "mod" is almost 2 years old now.


TMS
At least it was resurrected because people are using it. I've seeen 'em resurrected because a person searched and decide to comment on something from '03.

Frank
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