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Old 06-10-2006, 05:15 PM   #76
FromageTheDog
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I've been following this thread with much interest and got as far as gathering all the bits and pieces and soldering up a harness.

Then I realized how little length there is to the solenoid wiring in my car (YMMV). I'm not a big fan of vampire taps or crimped connectors, favoring solder and heat-shrink, and am a little spooked by the idea of shortening the already minimal working length of the wiring.

Has anyone had any luck sourcing a male plug, so one could make a harness like the one that comes with the Prodrive unit?

Freon -- thanks so much for such a great DIY thread!
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:19 PM   #77
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I'm not seeing any + on my solenoid or pigtail.
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:32 PM   #78
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However, after successfully energizing it by applying a 12V power source to it both ways, I would assume the polarity is in fact irrelevant as you alluded to in your 1st post.
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Old 06-12-2006, 08:36 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FromageTheDog
am a little spooked by the idea of shortening the already minimal working length of the wiring.
I think by the time you find and purchase the male harness you seek, you will have come very close to the difference in price between the GM solenoid + pigtail and the Prodrive unit.

I recommend you just get the Prodrive piece if you're concerned.
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Old 06-13-2006, 12:16 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblaine
I think by the time you find and purchase the male harness you seek, you will have come very close to the difference in price between the GM solenoid + pigtail and the Prodrive unit.

I recommend you just get the Prodrive piece if you're concerned.
jblaine -- thanks for the advice. Over the weekend I came to the same conclusion and ponied up for the Prodrive. It's pricey for what it is (right?), but still cheap enough to be worth the peace of mind.

Wish I'd come to this conclusion earlier; I now have 3 boost solenoids and only 1 car...
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Old 06-13-2006, 10:28 PM   #81
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Little help here.

I've connected the wiring both ways at the car and completed the install.

At ACC-on or ignition-on, the thing is energized and loud as hell even with the rubber grommet.

Is this correct, or should it be silent until activated by the ECU?
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Old 06-13-2006, 10:37 PM   #82
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Nevermind, I re-read the thread. Sounds like normal behavior.

Man, I'm definitely going to have to do something about that. WAY too noisy. I never heard the stock one. This thing sounds like a ShureFlo pump running.
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:50 AM   #83
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Mine is pretty quiet. I installed it to the stock hole (upper) using the stock grommet, as well as a piece of fuel line to help buffer it fromt he body. Look carefully and make sure that the solenoid body is not resting on or near the fender. If it is, it will resonate like a drum!
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:26 AM   #84
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For those interested/worried:

http://www.kickflop.net/temp/solenoid.wmv (980KB)

Turn your volume up so you can hear the engine's noise like you were in the car. Hear that constant noise that sounds like a movie projector? That's the solenoid.

Windows closed. Solenoid mounted with rubber grommet and no part of the solenoid is touching anything but the grommet.
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:34 AM   #85
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Jeez, thats normal? does the Prodrive unit do that?
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:46 AM   #86
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wow that's pretty loud.
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Old 06-15-2006, 12:39 PM   #87
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Possible spool increase of 200-300RPM... plus 3 extra pounds of weight on the car from sound-deadening material.

Decisions decisions

At this point, I am very likely to leave it on. My stocker had 54,000 miles on it and they don't last forever.

I'm not going to tolerate that racket though. My car is WAY too noisy as it is. Even *I* have a threshold I'll tolerate... pillowball coilovers, group-n mounts, group-n bushings, TXS downpipe that amplifies every turbo noise. Now I can't even idle at a stoplight without hearing stuff
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Old 06-16-2006, 12:17 AM   #88
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Holy cow. Maybe I'll hang onto mine. The problem is, the Prodrive unit has issues from the get-go, as I mention here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=981143

I'll give my GM unit a go to see if it is going to be that noisy; if yes I may bite the bullet and try to rig up some way of mounting the Prodrive. For almost $100 you really think that it would just drop right in.
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Old 06-16-2006, 05:26 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblaine
For those interested/worried:

http://www.kickflop.net/temp/solenoid.wmv (980KB)

Turn your volume up so you can hear the engine's noise like you were in the car. Hear that constant noise that sounds like a movie projector? That's the solenoid.

Windows closed. Solenoid mounted with rubber grommet and no part of the solenoid is touching anything but the grommet.
What EM are you using? The BCS should not be active at idle, you are not trying to make any boost. Also I mount the GM solenoid on the stock BCS bracket, I don't hear mine at all even at full boost and I have a stock exhaust.

TMS
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:07 AM   #90
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Hydra with boost control starting at 1900RPM
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:18 AM   #91
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And it runs fine in boost?

not to worry you but, a buddy of mine had and issue with his FBCS, it would do that when this other plug in the engine bay was dissconnected. It ran fine tho IIRC...
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:19 AM   #92
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jblaine: That is really loud. Mine is silent in comparison. I do hear it cycle just a bit when I am actually modulating the wastegate, but that may just be wastegate mechanical sounds as well.

All: On a different issue, I am having trouble reaching any significant boost in first and second gears. 04 STi, GM BCS, UTEC, TXS turboback, Cobb uppipe. I have 450 across the board in my boost map, and I am still only seeing <13 psi in 1st and 2nd gears. I get boost creep in the higher gears up to 18-19 psi. Running 58 boost gain. Any thoughts?
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:21 AM   #93
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Yup, controls boost fine. I started a thread a few days ago in the Hydra forum here. Hopefully Phil or someone else will have some advice.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?p=14171443
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:34 AM   #94
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Mine isn't that loud. Louder than stock, yes. You could add some more rubber to isolate it and it might help. Don't crank down the bolt holding the BCS down too hard as it will transfer the click to the larger bracket.

bcblues
Boost creep is a mechanical problem when you wastegate cannot dump enough gas even fully open. No boost control solenoid will fix this as it is the turbine housing that is the limitation. Your problem sounds nothing like boost creep. Your map has values way too high and your gain is too high. You should tune your boost map in 4th or 5th gear to hit the right boost, then lower your gain until you start having spiking problems. 55-56 is probably more like it. 58 is really high.
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:55 AM   #95
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Freon, Thanks for the input. I tried tuning in 4th and 5th, limiting boost to 18 psi in those gears. I could only hit wastegate pressure in 1st and 2nd gears with those boost values.
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Old 06-16-2006, 12:21 PM   #96
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Even with boost gain at 55 or 56? When do you start getting spiking with boost gain?
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:12 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblaine
Yup, controls boost fine. I started a thread a few days ago in the Hydra forum here. Hopefully Phil or someone else will have some advice.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...php?p=14171443

Did you run the resistor???
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:19 PM   #98
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Nope. It is my understanding that only affects current draw to match the OEM unit better.
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:28 PM   #99
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maybe give it a shot? I would think it would burn up just ticking all the time
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Old 06-17-2006, 06:12 AM   #100
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hey guys.. i'm just running the stock v7 ecu and no tune in sight, and i need a replacement BCS what subaru BCS will work for a JDM V7 STI? is the 2.5 STi or WRX or LGT BCS the same?

.sith.
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