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Old 01-24-2007, 03:39 PM   #151
fullerton
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thanks for the writeup. i might add this when I finally go to a "true" stage 2.
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Old 01-24-2007, 03:39 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkscooby View Post
Thats only 'cause you got a great deal on the pigtail!
Yes, the price was right

Many thanks to blkscooby for hooking me up with the pig tail for free. He's a good man! It did suck soldering the wires in though....it was 20F outside. I couldn't wait any longer so I bit the bullet. It was well worth it.
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Old 01-24-2007, 06:26 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggyrama View Post
Well, I got around to installing the BCS last weekend. My impressions: WOW! This this is awesome. Total and complete control over boost with amazing accuracy. It just works so much better than the stock unit. I could not go beyond 18psi with the stocker and once I swapped it for the GM unit, I hit my target of 21psi no problem.

I do not hear any ticking. I did reuse the rubber gasket that the stock unit was mounted on. I suspect that people that complain about the noise are just mounting the solenoid straight to the body. It might explain the loud noises. No sounds here other than awesome turbo spool

This is the best $29 I ever spent on this car.

can you post a picture of your rubber gasket setup? myself and another local have tried many different mounting options but to no success.
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Old 01-24-2007, 06:45 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disque71 View Post
can you post a picture of your rubber gasket setup? myself and another local have tried many different mounting options but to no success.
I cut mine in half and put it through the hole in the GM solenoid then put the metal sleeve so it wouldnt fall off. Ill let you know how the ticking is when I get the car running.
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:02 PM   #155
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Where are you guys monting these that can hear clicking?
I mount them on the stock BCS bracket. No one has ever complained about any clicking.

TMS
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:17 PM   #156
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Originally Posted by TheMadScientist View Post
Where are you guys monting these that can hear clicking?
I mount them on the stock BCS bracket. No one has ever complained about any clicking.

TMS
This is what I did as well. Do what KAX did. Cut the stock rubber ring so that it will fit in the GM BCS hole and mount it on one of the screws where the stock BCS was. You shouldn't hear any noises. I mean, I don't think Typhoon owners would have bought cars that make loud, ticking noises from factory
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:22 PM   #157
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Mount it in the stock location with one of the stock rubber standoffs. Don't over tighten that nut. That whole metal bracket is rubber isolated, and adding the standoff keeps it twice isolated from the chassis. The clicking of the solenoid itself isn't too loud, it is transfer to the chassis that makes it loud.

I suppose if it is still loud you could wrap it with something.
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:17 AM   #158
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^^ Exactly.

My Perrin POS was leaking so I ordered up the GM unit. I installed it by ...

1) Not worrying about the polarity.
2) Not worrying about the resistor.
3) Mounting it using a rubber bushing to one of the stock studs.

Works great. I had to add about 3% to my WGDCs to achieve the same as I had with the Perrin / ARO unit. Honestly, the car feels better with the GM one. It seems .... seems .... just a touch more stable at boost. However, this could be due to the fact that the Perrin/ARO unit flows a bit more (yes, I ... errrr ... wrapped my lips around the port and blew through each unit - roflmfao).

t
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Old 02-10-2007, 10:13 AM   #159
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question, do i or do i not, need the resistor soldered to the pigtail?
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Old 02-10-2007, 11:35 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke209 View Post
question, do i or do i not, need the resistor soldered to the pigtail?

nope, not crucial
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Old 02-10-2007, 08:09 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuke209 View Post
question, do i or do i not, need the resistor soldered to the pigtail?
depends on your car. some cars seem to need it, but that seems to be UTEC related.
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Old 02-10-2007, 09:53 PM   #162
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I run it on my car without and its been fine for several months.
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Old 02-11-2007, 12:13 AM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAX View Post
depends on your car. some cars seem to need it, but that seems to be UTEC related.
When has it ever been required? Why? What results if you do not?

I do not think it is necessary, period.
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Old 02-11-2007, 12:54 AM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freon View Post
When has it ever been required? Why? What results if you do not?

I do not think it is necessary, period.
my bad, i thought i read somewhere that someone was getting boost fluctuations and then the resistor fixed it. but i re-read the thread and couldnt find it.
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Old 02-11-2007, 02:42 AM   #165
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Think they were talking about the restrictor (brass pill). But I may be wrong. Should not need that either though.

Last edited by crashtke; 02-11-2007 at 02:50 AM.
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Old 02-11-2007, 02:55 AM   #166
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anybody work out a way to not have to splice the harness to install this? was figuring i would get some ones stock bcs locally and just cut the pigtail of it and solder it to the gm one for a nice clean install
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Old 02-11-2007, 03:44 PM   #167
KAX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbarth3 View Post
anybody work out a way to not have to splice the harness to install this? was figuring i would get some ones stock bcs locally and just cut the pigtail of it and solder it to the gm one for a nice clean install
how is that different then cutting your own pigtail and splicing in the GM one?
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Old 02-12-2007, 04:50 PM   #168
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I'm using two of these for a custom EBC setup, but came ocross this thread looking for which nipple was in, out, and return. Upon testing it myself, I came up with the following.

The bottom plastic nipple (foam over it) is the return, should you want to plumb it back into the intake.
When the solenoid is not energized, the air flows from the top plastic nipple to the metal nipple and the bottom plastic nipple is blocked off.
When the solenoid is energized, the air flow goes from the bottom plastic nipple to the top plastic nipple, and the metal nipple is blocked off.

So by using the metal nipple as the boost source, the intake never has anything plumbed back into it anyway. Would it be beneficial to swap the top plastic nipple and metal nipple? That way, when the solenoid is activated, boost is redirected to the return instead, and the wastegate is blocked off. Then, when it's deactivated again, boost passes through to the wastegate actuator. The stock BCS setup has the bleed line going back into the intake, so this would essentially do the same thing. I'm just not seeing the point in plumbing it back in the way it's set up in the original post. Someone tell me I'm crazy and wasting my time.

Last edited by IMPREZive 02 WRX; 02-18-2007 at 02:30 AM. Reason: Read entire thread, nobody mentioned this.
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Old 02-20-2007, 12:01 AM   #169
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Yes? No? Did I kill the thread?
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Old 02-20-2007, 02:31 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IMPREZive 02 WRX View Post
I'm using two of these for a custom EBC setup, but came ocross this thread looking for which nipple was in, out, and return. Upon testing it myself, I came up with the following.

The bottom plastic nipple (foam over it) is the return, should you want to plumb it back into the intake.
When the solenoid is not energized, the air flows from the top plastic nipple to the metal nipple and the bottom plastic nipple is blocked off.
When the solenoid is energized, the air flow goes from the bottom plastic nipple to the top plastic nipple, and the metal nipple is blocked off.

So by using the metal nipple as the boost source, the intake never has anything plumbed back into it anyway. Would it be beneficial to swap the top plastic nipple and metal nipple? That way, when the solenoid is activated, boost is redirected to the return instead, and the wastegate is blocked off. Then, when it's deactivated again, boost passes through to the wastegate actuator. The stock BCS setup has the bleed line going back into the intake, so this would essentially do the same thing. I'm just not seeing the point in plumbing it back in the way it's set up in the original post. Someone tell me I'm crazy and wasting my time.
You are correct about the ports but somewhat incorrectabout its operation. The single port is the inlet from the compressor; the port with no foam is to the WG; and the port with the foam is to the intake.

When the BCS is de-energized, the full compressor pressure is being routed to the WG and none to the intake to overcome the WG spring and hold the WG open. When the BCS is energized, the compressor pressure is fully vented to the intake, none applied to the WG to hold it closed by the WG spring.

Do not use a resistor pill at all. The advantage over the stock BCS is the GM unit applies 0 psi to the WG at 50-60% DC than the stock unit applying 2-3 psi to the WG at 100% DC. I did a side-by-side test of the two recently. Do a search on Stock BCS limitation.
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:37 PM   #171
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what size vacuum tubing is everyone using? i have been running the standard tubing size. i ran into someone that has all their lines the same size as the smallest vacuum tube, i think the one that runs to the intake. he said he found it at a lawnmower repair shop. the nipple on the turbo compressor is quite small in comparison to the standard tubing. my tubing is on pretty securely, but im wondering if i would benefit by running a smaller line.
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Old 02-20-2007, 06:02 PM   #172
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im using the same size lines as stock. i have an adaptor for the ports on the intake and EWG to up the size of the tubing to fit on those.
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Old 02-20-2007, 10:26 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkscooby View Post
You are correct about the ports but somewhat incorrectabout its operation. The single port is the inlet from the compressor; the port with no foam is to the WG; and the port with the foam is to the intake.

When the BCS is de-energized, the full compressor pressure is being routed to the WG and none to the intake to overcome the WG spring and hold the WG open. When the BCS is energized, the compressor pressure is fully vented to the intake, none applied to the WG to hold it closed by the WG spring.
You just explained exactly what I just said, but with the ports reversed. Maybe you have a different solenoid than me. By plumbing it the way described in the original post and yours, the boost signal is not routed, it's blocked.
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Old 02-21-2007, 08:24 AM   #174
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The boost signal is supposed to be blocked when the BCS is energized. That is the way it works.


Also, I used 3/16" fuel line hose from NAPA. I think it was $3-4 for 4 feet.
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:34 AM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkscooby View Post
The boost signal is supposed to be blocked when the BCS is energized. That is the way it works.


Also, I used 3/16" fuel line hose from NAPA. I think it was $3-4 for 4 feet.
I thought it was supposed to be re-routed to the intake when the solenoid's energized.

When the solenoid's not energized, the intake's blocked off, and when it is energized, the intake is connected to the wastegate if you plumb it the way it's described in the OP.
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