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Old 04-08-2006, 01:53 PM   #26
Jaredm83
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This works!!! Sweet! Now I can leave my car running with out the keys (turbo timer) and set my alarm, unlock all my doors with 1 push, and pop my trunk with the second push all with my factory alarm! Out of the 3 alarm mods I like the trunk pop the best! Thanks for this write up!!!! I recomend it to everyone who wants aftermarket alarm features on their factory alarms for next to nothing!
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Old 04-09-2006, 08:52 AM   #27
VR4Impreza
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Just curiouse but did you wire the door switch defeat circuit too. (i.e. does you door switch unlock your doors, but not pop you trunk?)

I drew that diagram back in November and then a new job came along with colder weather + no garage = haven't tried it yet.

Just wanted some feedback on it, I just bought a house with a garage, plus it's getting warmer so I'll probably do that sometime soon.
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Old 04-11-2006, 08:56 AM   #28
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i would like to know as well.
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Old 04-18-2006, 05:11 PM   #29
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where do you attach the relay and how to you wire the trunk popper to only work when you aren't driving?

would really appreciate a step-by-step instructions with images. thanks.
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Old 04-18-2006, 10:14 PM   #30
VR4Impreza
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my relays are wired under the dash. As for the wiring to deactivate while driving, HolyMaWah addressed it. One of his posts describes it, I can't remember which wires exactly right now. If I get some time I'll fix my diagram to denote it.

As for the pics, my camera isn't good enough to turn out any pics from under the dash. I tried, sorry. I still haven't "finished" this by hooking the door switch defeat circuit, I hope to do it in a few weeks. When I do I'll try to take a few pics of the finished work to hopefully help.
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Old 04-18-2006, 10:41 PM   #31
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This wiring diagram fixes the trunk popping while car is running issue.



Anyone that has done this complete mod please comment.
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Old 06-17-2006, 09:09 PM   #32
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I finally got the time and wired up the trunk release relay circuit today... everything as per the left side of the diagram, worked as it should, but the door unlock opens the trunk...

I tried to wire up the door switch defeat circuit but failed... I had a constant 12v for pin 87 and pin 86... the yellow wire coming from the door leading to the gray plug to the integrated unit was cut before the plug and wired to pin 85... now I wasn't sure about 30 and 87...

Since I already had a lead from the red/green wire to the red wire enabling all doors to unlock on one press I wasn't sure where to get unlock signal from plug to lead to 87a, I assume I just tap into the area where the spliced red wire leads to the green... So basically I had 2 wires coming from the area I tapped into the red/green wire, one going to 30 and one going to 87a...

I'm pretty sure I didn't wire up something on the right hand side of the diagram correctly, with the way I had it set up I kept popping fuses... I don't understand which wire goes to 87a and which to 30... to me they should be the same wire since you have to keep the red wire intact in order to unlock the driver side door...

I figured since I have a turbo timer I may as well just wire the first relay to the ignition but I couldn't find the wire which is ground when the car is off and 12v when it is on... anyone know what color it is on an 02?

To summarize, I need clarification on the door switch defeat circuit, which wire is the unlock from plug and which is the spliced red/green wire? Color of ignition wire?
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Old 06-17-2006, 09:22 PM   #33
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rereading this:
Quote:
2. Connect the switch end of the yellow wire to pin 85 on a standard relay. Connect 86 to +12V constant (or even better, tap off the key-sense wire which is white/red and only shows +12V when the key is in the ignition--instant security feature). Cut the red wire coming out of the integrated module that shows +12V on unlock, which you spliced the red/green wire to originally. Now put the plug end of the red wire to pin 87a. Connect 87 to fused +12V and then 30 to the joined red and red/green wires.
I think I just realized my problem... I was infact keeping the red wire and red/green wire together from the plug, I now realize I needed to cut it off, tap the plug end of the red wire to 87a and then 30 leads to the red/green and red wires going to the doors...

Should be able to try this tomorrow morning... will post back
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Old 06-17-2006, 11:06 PM   #34
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Well I couldn't wait til the morning so I headed to my car with a flashlight... set up the second relay and now it works! Can't pop the trunk with the door unlock button now and the secondary function of the remote is to pop the trunk! Thanks VR4Impreza and HolyMahwah for the instructions and diagrams!
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Old 06-19-2006, 10:57 PM   #35
VR4Impreza
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GREAT!! I finally bought a house and now have a garage.. after a few home improvements I intend on finishing this project I started 8 months ago. I am glad to know the wiring diagram worked well.
Out of curiousity, how did you connect your trunk release solenoid to the trunk? I hooked my at the base part of the trunk, it keeps slipping off. I have read of people connecting it in the lid to the emergency internal release. Just curious of your method and how well it works.
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Old 08-10-2006, 08:54 AM   #36
ptirmal
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I had mine connected to the base and I drilled holes and everything but then it wouldnt pop it... it turns out it worked after all I just needed to realign my lid, but since I couldnt get it to work that time I placed it in my lid where the emergency trunk release is. It's cleaner if you place it in the base but I used wire loom and everything, it looks clean... congrats on the house purchase!
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Old 12-31-2006, 08:48 PM   #37
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Any updates?
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Old 01-01-2007, 03:13 PM   #38
VR4Impreza
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What updates are you looking for?
Myself, I still haven't gotten around to wiring the door switch defeat circuit, but I did tweak my trunk actuator, and it is working a lot better now.
If you have any specific questions feel free to post them, I'll try to help.
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Old 01-01-2007, 10:04 PM   #39
Kurokaze
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I'm ordering the trunk release and wanted to know if you or ptirmal had any pics or a final diagram before I dove in.

Great solution by the way!
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Old 01-02-2007, 01:22 PM   #40
ptirmal
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Just read the thread and look at the diagram, the diagram is correct
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Old 01-12-2007, 06:28 PM   #41
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This mod looks great. I'd like to do it but have a few questions:

1) I assume the numbers referenced 85, 86,etc reference the pin number on one of the connectors. How do you know which pin it mapps too? I don't have service manual.

2) Can you get the "standard Boech" relay at a local auto parts store?

3) In the diagrams above, when are the boxes with lines through them.
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Old 01-12-2007, 06:33 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregor View Post
This mod looks great. I'd like to do it but have a few questions:

1) I assume the numbers referenced 85, 86,etc reference the pin number on one of the connectors. How do you know which pin it mapps too? I don't have service manual.

2) Can you get the "standard Boech" relay at a local auto parts store?

3) In the diagrams above, when are the boxes with lines through them.
1) Those are the numbers of the relay prongs. They are usually marked on the relay itself.

2) Yes, or Radio Shack or another electronics store.

3) I think those are just representing the circuit in the relay.
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Old 01-13-2007, 12:33 PM   #43
VR4Impreza
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^^^
Exactly,

Most relays have the diagram printed directly on them.

As for the boxes with lines through them they are the circuit that activates the relay.
i.e. connections 85 and 86 must be powered to activate the relay. Generally you would wire power to one side and a grounded switch to the other side. When you flip the switch it provides a low voltage signal witch then activates the higher voltage circuit within the relay. (wires 30, 87, and 87a)

What I did here was use the low voltage that is provided from the remote signal to activate the relay, which then sends a higher voltage to the trunk release module..

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-13-2007, 01:03 PM   #44
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Got it, thanks. A few more questions.

1) I found a few trunk solenoids on Ebay with differing pulling capacities. One was 22lbs and the other was 45lbs. Any guess which one is needed for the trunk? I was thinking of over sizing with the 45lb version but since I might be tapping in to an existing 12v line for power, I don't want to draw to much current.

2) About the two statements below, are they refering to the same wire? How can I locate this wire(s)?

Quote:
As regards the +12V sources...
1. The source for the trunk solenoid should come either straight from the battery or the constant +12V at the ignition harness. It should be 14ga wire
Quote:
Connect 85 from the first relay (above) to the ignition wire coming off the key cylinder instead of ground. The ignition wire itself rests at ground until the car is turned on, and then it's at +12V
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Old 01-13-2007, 10:12 PM   #45
VR4Impreza
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1.) the 22lb should be more than enough, I would think using a larger solenoid would pull more current. It doesn't take much power to pop the trunk. But I don't think either would pull too much current.

2.) No they are not the same wire. you need a constant twelve volts for the trunk release, because you will be using the remote when the ignition is OFF.

As for the second quote, the reason for this is to deactivate the trunk release when the car is on. If you connect to the ignition wire coming off the key you will have neg to complete the circuit while the care is off, then once you turn the car on you will have 12+, thus making it unable to complete the circuit and making the trunk solenoid useless, this is to avoid accidental release when the car is on.
( I didn't connect mine this way, this point was brought up after I wired mine)

As for finding these wires, you can probably search here or the internet for wiring color codes for your year/model. Myself I just take my voltmeter under the car and look for what I need (i.e. if you want neg at rest and +12 on ignition, poke around until you find a wire resting on neg, then turn the key on, test for + voltage, repeat...) If you are just tapping to power to activate a relay this will work fine as relays draw minimal power to activate. As for finding a power source for you solenoid I would suggest running straight from the battery or tapping off you stereo's const +

I hope this is making sense because I think I am confusing myself a little...
Let me know if you have anymore questions.
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Old 01-14-2007, 12:17 AM   #46
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I wouldn't run the solenoid power wire from anything other than a directly fused source as they generally draw a lot of power and sometimes won't properly work if they can't get enough juice...

I got my solenoid from partsexpress.com
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Old 01-14-2007, 09:55 AM   #47
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I know im a little late into this conversation, but i would like to add my input on the situation...

From what I can tell, you dont even need a relay to integrate a remote trunk release from your keyfob.

When you press lock 3 times it initiates a courtesy horn for locating your car in a large parkinglot.

Why not just splice into this factory wiring location as your "switch" signal to activate the trunk release? If you wire into the source of the signal, only when you activate the courtesy horn switch would the trunk release, not whenever you use your horn.

This way just seems the simplest to me without having to even deal with relays or working around existing circuits.
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:41 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G3Red04WRX View Post
I know im a little late into this conversation, but i would like to add my input on the situation...

From what I can tell, you dont even need a relay to integrate a remote trunk release from your keyfob.

When you press lock 3 times it initiates a courtesy horn for locating your car in a large parkinglot.

Why not just splice into this factory wiring location as your "switch" signal to activate the trunk release? If you wire into the source of the signal, only when you activate the courtesy horn switch would the trunk release, not whenever you use your horn.

This way just seems the simplest to me without having to even deal with relays or working around existing circuits.
I have the upgraded security on my car and I don't have this feature, wish I did though; a lot of cars have it, maybe it's a new model thing
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Old 01-14-2007, 10:58 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptirmal View Post
I have the upgraded security on my car and I don't have this feature, wish I did though; a lot of cars have it, maybe it's a new model thing
I have it on an 06 STI. However I wouldn't want to go this route. The orignal plan removes the staged, double press for all four doors which is huge (to me). You'd still need a relay for the solinoid as well as some way to disable it while the car is running. IMO it wouldn't save you much work and the only reason to go that route is to save the cost of 1 relay (~$2.00) and cutting the wire from the door switch. You still need to find the wire the cause the horn honk and deal with a couple honks every time you pop you trunk.

I suppose that you could disable the honk, but given the choice, I'd rather disable the staged unlock, cause I like having the honk and hate the staged unlock.
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:22 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregor View Post
I have it on an 06 STI. However I wouldn't want to go this route. The orignal plan removes the staged, double press for all four doors which is huge (to me). You'd still need a relay for the solinoid as well as some way to disable it while the car is running. IMO it wouldn't save you much work and the only reason to go that route is to save the cost of 1 relay (~$2.00) and cutting the wire from the door switch. You still need to find the wire the cause the horn honk and deal with a couple honks every time you pop you trunk.

I suppose that you could disable the honk, but given the choice, I'd rather disable the staged unlock, cause I like having the honk and hate the staged unlock.
Sorry, didnt think youd take such offense to such a simple solution after such a complicated one had been put together. BTW, its 3 quick presses on the lock button on the keyfob, and all it does is one quick tap of the horn as a signal.

Also, im not sure of this, but i thought it was a standard feature of the cars keyless entry system to have this couresy honk. However, i do have the upgraded alarm system on my 04 and get the 3 lock honk, so i know for sure on an 04 with upgraded security that this is still a regular feature of the keyless entry.

So still, wiring a relay to this couresy honk part of the keyless module in the car, would still seem a much easier method to activating a trunk lock solenoid. Constant power in, ground out, courtest honk on the relays switch, and signal out to the solenoid and you can call it a day without even hacking up your factory wiring. One vampire tap or a quick solder point onto an existing wire and everything else remains the way it is meant to be. You retain factory staged unlocking and dont accidentally pop your trunk hitting your remote unlock twice unintentionally.
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