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#101 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 100824
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Yes, I believe this ideas was discussed earlier in the thread and it was felt that the second press on inside button popping the trunk was a bad thing. I've been thinking about adding a button some where in the interior to pop the trunk. Since I've got the solinoid there, might as well use it. I know have a the manual release with is easy enough but I'm a geek. Adding the second button press when the to door gets you this without having a second button. However I think I will stick to the original plan. Nice job beating me, didn't know it was race.
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#102 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 112433
Join Date: Apr 2006
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: Toronto
Vehicle:06 WRX.stage2 OBP |
Quote:
I'm not sure if that's what you meant. |
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#103 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 100824
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
BTW, what are you using to draw the schematic? |
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#104 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 112433
Join Date: Apr 2006
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: Toronto
Vehicle:06 WRX.stage2 OBP |
I haven't touched the yellow door panel switch. I don't have those schematics but I'm assuming that it's input the the circuit the provides the red and red/green output from the module.
I'm using photoshop for the schematics. Just copied and pasted VR4Impreza's and modified it. |
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#105 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 100824
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
I just did mine this morning. In my case (06 STI) it was not the yellow wire that connected to the door switch. It was actually the yellow/red wire on PIN 11 of the gray 20 pin connector (on the integrated module). Once wired as originally described the interior switch works then same as before and the trunk pops only from the keyfob. |
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#106 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 112433
Join Date: Apr 2006
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: Toronto
Vehicle:06 WRX.stage2 OBP |
Quote:
For reference however, my interior switch only unlocks all 4 doors when the key is in. The difference is that my trunk would pop open when the key is NOT in the cylinder. It's better for me though.Which schematic did you end up using? |
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#107 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 100824
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Quote:
I used VR4's last one from Post 21 I ended up not using the ignition switch wire to disable it when the car is on. As soon as the key is inserted the keyless entry is disabled so I figured the redundance is wasn't nessessary. |
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#108 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 100824
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Minor long term update. So far no problems with the solenoid pull cable needing re-adjustment, and its still working quite well. I did accidentally discover one thing that I didn't catch in the beginning. When the following conditions are met, the trunk will open:
I haven't decided if I like it or not. Its kind of nice to have another way to open the trunk when the keys aren't handy. Plus you can do it from the passenger side as well. However the condiitons aren't logical, so I'm not sure how useful it will end up being. So far it hasn't been a problem as I don't usually try to lock the doors with key in and the door open. |
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#109 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 78818
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: N Parkersburg, WV
Vehicle:'06 Forester XS '11 Outback 2.5i |
I'm glad to see some new debate on this issue, I somehow missed the discussion between Gregor and turbo_h4.
I still haven't overrode the inside switch, and have yet to pop the trunk, so I probably won't do it (it's been 2 years without a problem) but if I were starting anew, it's a good bonus. As Gregor mentioned, adding a disable for keysense is a little redundant, as it's already there for the keyfob. As for the interior button, I considered it too (same reason, I'm a dork, and my kit came with one) Also for people with subs in the trunk, you could remove (or disconnect) the manual release and hide the button. I suppose you could wire a second relay for what's it's worth for the gas (it's worth more than the stereo equipment now!!) and remove both levers. |
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#110 | |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 82243
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Philly
Vehicle:07' Acura TL-S 11' Ducati Monster 796 |
Long term update:
It'll be 4 years next month and I had an early TnT (twist and tape) come loose. It was a short wire that I could barely reach so I decided to just TnT it instead of crimping it but it had some tension on it which pulled it loose. It was the red wire that makes the driver's door unlock came loose. Now crimped. Something I noticed a few weeks ago as well, while the door unlock switch doesn't pop the trunk on the driver's side, it does on the passenger side. This is because the yellow wire must be cut on both sides and wired to pin 85 on the door defeat relay. An easy fix that I only noticed while installing some new stereo stuff and hitting the passenger side unlock. Funny how it's been nearly 4 years and I've never hit that button until recently. Quote:
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#111 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 153012
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: DTW
Vehicle:07 USDM STI Satin Pearl |
sorry to bump this one...
couldn't find the diagram so I made one looks Ok to me but I want to confirm thx ![]() Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
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#112 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 242652
Join Date: Mar 2010
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Vehicle:04 2.5 TS sedan JBP |
so, been thinking bout this, and since other models in this year range have it...
is there any way to use a key from another model that has the trunk pop on our imprezas? i guess the better question to ask would be are the remote tranceivers the same in all subarus, coding and all (between years) or are they different? if they are the same, it would be possible to run a different model key, a trunk pop, and not have to change anything from the doors. no i haven't read the whole thread. |
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#113 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 329185
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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^^^^^^This?
AB |
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#114 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 82243
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Philly
Vehicle:07' Acura TL-S 11' Ducati Monster 796 |
Read the whole thread.
CN: Not on the older Subarus, might be different on the new ones but probably not. |
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