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Old 11-03-2005, 09:22 AM   #1
MRF582
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Default Tips & Tricks to a clutch install

I will be installing an OEM clutch and flywheel today(in an hour or so). i've read 3-4 different write-ups on how to do it. I have the shop manual in *.pdf form as well

It seems most people have a lot of trouble in the step where you have to divorce the gearbox from the engine and also in the marrying the gearbox to the engine stage. In the service manual it says to set the specialty tool on the engine before you remove the gearbox. I believe this is to keep the engine from changing the angle once you unbolt the gearbox. i don't have that tool. so i will be using a piece of wood and a secondary jack as a substitute.

I know about pulling the pivot rod out by inserting a 6mm screw after removing the 10mm hex screw cover.

What i AM looking for is anything that may make my life easier. Do I need to unhook the axles from the hubs? or will they move enough when i slide the transmission back? Should i take the propeller shaft completely out or just unhook it from the rear diff? Should i use loctite on the flywheel bolts? I don't think the FSM calls for it but it may be a good idea.

Thanks for your helpful responses.
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:37 AM   #2
Bayley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF582
I believe this is to keep the engine from changing the angle once you unbolt the gearbox. i don't have that tool. so i will be using a piece of wood and a secondary jack as a substitute.
Yup, that will work just fine. You won't even have to jack it up per say, you just need to keep the front end of the engine supported once you remove the transmission from the engine. If you don't add any support, the engine will pitch forward. While not "bad", the transmission will not line up with the engine while it is pitched forward like this. You will need to slightly change the height when aligning the transmission back up tot he engine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF582
Do I need to unhook the axles from the hubs?
NO!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF582
or will they move enough when i slide the transmission back?
Some people push the engine back far enough to where it is free from the guide pin on the engine then slide the transmission to one side, release one axel, slide the engine to the other side, then release the other axel. Personally, I just unbolt the top strut to hub bolt and loosen the bottom enough to pivot the hub / spindle assembly out just enough to to remove the axel from the transmission.

CAUTION: Mark the location of the top strut to hub bolt!!! This is what sets your front camber and must be put back in the same location to maintain correct camber.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF582
Should i take the propeller shaft completely out or just unhook it from the rear diff?
Best to just get rid of it. While you probably get away with just removing the dif bolts and support hanger / donut, I found it best to get rid of everything that could possibly get in the way. When it comes time to lower the transmission, you will be fighting for every last piece of real estate.

Also, don't forget about the shifter linkage. Even after you unbolt it from the transmission, it loves to get all jammed up in the back of the transmission at the worse possible times when lowering the unit.

Good Luck!
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Old 11-03-2005, 11:03 AM   #3
mranlet
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Interesting to see differences in technique for a tranny pull.
Here is my process:
-Unplug and drop exhaust
-Unbolt and drop driveshaft
-Unbolt the Lower Control Arms (not touching the uprights or strut bolts) and sway bar
-Punch out the roll pins on the axle stubs and swing the uprights outward to get the axles off
-Disconnect the battery and unbolt the starter and top tranny bolts from the top
-Put a jack under the trans, unbolt the crossmember and lower tranny bolts (If you have a dog bone take that bolt out too)
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Old 11-03-2005, 11:04 AM   #4
Owenator
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I didn't realize until it was too late that the engine would pitch forward. I ended up using another jack to "lift" teh front of the engine to get the angle right for mating the tranny. As far as front axels I just unbolt the tranny and then move it side to side to get the front axles off. I'v only done this three times so there may be more tricks buyt I always end up removing the fron exhaust and propeller shaft like the shop manual says I just dont undue the front cojntrol arm bolts or ball joints which might be why it's harder to mate back up because I attach the front axles then mate it back up.

One important thing to know is that gear oil is in the drive shaft/propeller shaft. You have to cover the tranny end and the end of the drive shaft or it will leak all over. Oh and take the time to mare them up first don't try to use the bolts to pull them together or you may have the problem I just had - snapped two bolts - doh!

I've put in two clutches and an entire new tranny with RA gears so far on my WRX.

O
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Old 11-03-2005, 05:04 PM   #5
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cool. thanks for the help.

i cant get the transmssion out. all 8 engine to tranny bolts are out. clutch pivot rod is out. gear linkage is unbolted. help please.
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Old 11-03-2005, 06:04 PM   #6
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how do i 'free the release fork'? i've got the pivot rod out and can pull the release fork up. but what do i do next?
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Old 11-03-2005, 06:46 PM   #7
Uncle Scotty
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....so why the oem flywheel???

there 'aint no way in a frozen hell with icewater that I'd put a stock flywheel back in if I had the opportunity NOT to....the stock clutch is a good idea, but stock flywheel....NOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo oooooooooooooooooooooo.
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Old 11-03-2005, 09:03 PM   #8
MRF582
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well, got the gearbox apart from the engine. so we are 50% done. the stock clutch was worn down to the rivets. flywheel was pretty messed up

now on to the store to get transmision fluid, brake cleaner, loctite, and a lower strut mount bolt. Phase 2 begins.
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Old 11-04-2005, 04:24 AM   #9
MRF582
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got done a few hours ago.
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Old 11-04-2005, 11:52 AM   #10
Owenator
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Thumbs up

Congratulations! It's not an easy job! If you were able to do this without breaking anything then you are doing better than me! I'll be drillng and taping to helicoil a few transmission bolt holes on my block this weekend.

O
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Old 11-04-2005, 03:48 PM   #11
MRF582
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the only bolt we stripped was the lower strut bolt. but luckily i had a couple extra ones from when i put camber bolts in the rear.

taking the transmission off was a HUGE PITA. even after taking everything off, it wouldn't come off. but aligning it up wasn't as difficult since we had 3 people total communicating and aligning it up. one would stand by the engine bay and say which way the transmission needed to be angled. and we didn't put the nuts and bolts on till they would easily go in most of the way by hand.

but after this ordeal, i'd like to thank those that posted in this thread, everyone who has done a step by step write up of a transmission install in the past, scoobymods, Uncle Scotty for giving me the means to accquire the FSM a while ago and my 2 friends who spent 12 hours underneath the car.

i'm pretty confident the next time it won't take more than 5 hours. so if anybody wants help installing a clutch near gainesville, let me know. Things will go by a lot faster when you have someone who's done it once before.
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Old 11-05-2005, 12:46 AM   #12
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I'm always happy to have been of any help...glad ya got it done
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Old 11-05-2005, 03:39 AM   #13
snwman
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Clutch install is definately fun, I just did a friends the other day with his help. We did the whole thing over about 3 days taking our time and reading the FSM. It actually went fairly smooth since were not working with a time deadline. Next time we will be using a low profile transmission jack instead of the strongarm method for removing and installing the transmission. Glad to hear your install went ok
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