Just completed the DIY "find your leak" tool.

kingtut12 · 11-08-2005, 10:14 PM

I followed Jorge (RiftsWRX) advice and built my own. Ran about 20psi into it and found 2 leaks. One at the throttle body and another in the inlet (vent hose). I fixed both leaks, but I would have never found them without this.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

[IMG]

[/IMG]

I thought this would have cleared up my stalling issues, but it did not. Thats another issue that I've been battling for several months now. Sorry these pics are gigantic.

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

KmanRuffian · 11-08-2005, 10:26 PM

That is awesome man, this is exactly what I need to do. Got a couple questions for you:
Could you list the materials and where you got them? Is the valve just for a tire or what? And how did you secure it in the PVC pipe? I see lots of sealant so I assume it's just glued/sealed in?

Also the other question I have is where is that plugged in to? Turbo inlet? I was thinking of doing this also but wasn't sure where to pressurize the system from and what outlets have to be blocked off so that air won't just escape from the system through a vent hose or whatever. I guess the PCV system is self contained so maybe you don't have to block it off huh?

Thanks much,
-D

kingtut12 · 11-08-2005, 10:41 PM

I have Perrin turbo inlet which is 2.75 inches internal diameter.

I went to Lowe's Home Improvement store to purchase it all, but I'm sure Home Depot or any Hardware store would have it.

List:

Sku# 23306 - 2" DWV Plug MIPT
Sku# 23302 - 2" Cleanout F adapter
Sku# 23360 - 2" Long sweep Elbow

Tire valve stem at Pep Boys
Cement glue and silicone

I glued the DWV into the elbow
Then I dremmeled a hole for the valve into the cleanout adapter.
The valve stem pressure fits and seats into a groove (kinda like a snap-grommet)
Then I put cement glue around the stem just for added strength
Then after it is totally dry, I smeared a generous amount of silicone around it.
Screw the cleanout into the DWV plug, and use a wrench to really tighten that sucker down.

Then I stuck the whole piece into the Turbo inlet and clamped the heck out of it.
I also plugged the 3 ventilation ports on the top of my inlet.

Ran about 10psi through it at first and didn't notice anything. Then I turned it up around 20-25 psi and found the leaks immediately. Fixed the leaks by adjusting pipe and retightening. Did another test and no leaks. Car started up with NO rough idle as it had before.

.

phantomsr · 11-08-2005, 10:47 PM

Did the same thing but I just capped the turbo inlet and pressurized through a fitting in the inlet. He has that pressurized from where the MAF elbo connects to the inlet pipe. Full intake leak check. Much easier than trying to listen for a leak over the running engine. Make sure you don't over pressure. I wouldn't exceed 20 PSI and I only used 15 on mine. Unless you have disconnected the PCV valve you will pressurize the crankcase too.

RiftsWRX · 11-08-2005, 11:07 PM

Giving credit where credit is due, I have to thank Justin (jnorth85). He is the one who originally made that tester replica for me. It's been a god send.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com

gpatmac · 11-09-2005, 01:49 AM

Thank you Jorge and thanks Kingtut.

Ski Bum · 11-09-2005, 02:12 AM

What sort of compressor did you uses? or was is a hand pump?

kingtut12 · 11-09-2005, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ski Bum

What sort of compressor did you uses? or was is a hand pump?

Just a small air compressor tank with the proper nozzle fitting. I filled with air cautiously and checked my PSI with a tire pressure gauge. If you have any leaks, you will definitley hear them. I also sprayed a soapy mixture onto the suspected leak area to really pinpoint it. With the soap you can pinpoint right down to the exact area leaking.

Vlad · 05-14-2006, 05:42 PM

Sorry to resurect, but did this today and got a humming/buzz from the evaporative system purge valve, that small capsule located in front of the intake manifold, by the back of the alternator.
Did anybody else get that?
Also, I did not think the pressure rised above 2 PSI.
What I did not understand is how do you guys prevent air from leaking past the throttle body. Depending where the engine stopped, valves could be open and the air could just end in the exhaust, no?
Please help me out.
Vlad

Strng1dah · 05-14-2006, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kingtut12

Just a small air compressor tank with the proper nozzle fitting. I filled with air cautiously and checked my PSI with a tire pressure gauge. If you have any leaks, you will definitley hear them. I also sprayed a soapy mixture onto the suspected leak area to really pinpoint it. With the soap you can pinpoint right down to the exact area leaking.

You could also get a regulator for your compressor to only let a set psi through.

djerickd · 05-14-2006, 10:10 PM

Nice work, can I borrow it? seriously!

nhluhr · 05-14-2006, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vlad

Sorry to resurect, but did this today and got a humming/buzz from the evaporative system purge valve, that small capsule located in front of the intake manifold, by the back of the alternator.
Did anybody else get that?
Also, I did not think the pressure rised above 2 PSI.
What I did not understand is how do you guys prevent air from leaking past the throttle body. Depending where the engine stopped, valves could be open and the air could just end in the exhaust, no?
Please help me out.
Vlad

I also got that buzzing on my roommate's 04sti when i tested his. I assumed it was normal at the time but he does have a weird hunting-idle issue.

Vlad · 05-15-2006, 09:26 AM

A while ago I did the work with removing the intake manifold, to fix the cold fuel leak. I did it with the factory manual.

One thing that the factory manual did not mention, is that there is a direction of installation of that valve, for the 2 lateral hoses.
There's a little arrow on it and it's marked E/G. I re-checked the manual and could not find clear directions on how it should be hooked up, except for reading the main diagram. Anyway, the arrow was pointing in the wrong direction, towards the manifold. I tool the valve out and tried it and it seemed to close fine. But I may have to replace it.

subieworx · 05-15-2006, 11:56 AM

Wow, that's complex.

I would have just mad (and have for my dsm in the past) a small cap that would fit inside the inlet (where you have it connected) with a rubber valve stem made for wheels. Costs $2 and only involves drilling a hole in the cap for installation.

Sir_Xenon · 05-15-2006, 01:11 PM

excellent, been meaning to do this for a while.... but, what about leaking out of valves that are open in the engine? I'm surprised it works, will have to give it a try

nhluhr · 05-15-2006, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by subieworx

Wow, that's complex.

I would have just mad (and have for my dsm in the past) a small cap that would fit inside the inlet (where you have it connected) with a rubber valve stem made for wheels. Costs $2 and only involves drilling a hole in the cap for installation.

That's what I did. The 2" size actually jams in very tightly.

remowgn · 05-16-2006, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sir_Xenon

excellent, been meaning to do this for a while.... but, what about leaking out of valves that are open in the engine? I'm surprised it works, will have to give it a try

As long as the throttle plate is closed and the leaks are bigger than what would leak by it, the leak detector will still come in handy. I'll be trying this out myself, I think i have a few leaks.

Vlad · 05-16-2006, 02:53 PM

So maybe the throttle plate should be "helped" with a rubber cap on top of it. The pressure on my hookup never exceeded 3.5 PSI. I would want at least 15.

First, I forgot to explain that even after I reversed the valve I was talking about earlier, there still was a buzz when I was pressurizing, only with a different pitch. So, either the valve is just not working right anymore, or it's normal.

Second, as I was pressurizing, the pressure did not go up past 3 PSI, but when I would release the compressor chuck the tire valve would hold 3.5 PSI for a while. I could even walk to the trunk, bring the tire gauge, come back and still measure 3.5. It's just that there was no way to go up in pressure, almost like something was venting (nowhere visible) as fast as the tire compressor could pump in and was stopping venting at 3.5. I was spraying soapy water all the time.

One thing I heard and believe might be true, is that all motors stop in the same respective position, every time. A mechanic once pressed out the starter toothed crown off the fly wheel, because it had a dammaged sector and then re-pressed it at a different position of the bad sector and that took care of the problem.
If this is true you will, for example in a 6 cylinder have the engine stop in such way where a pressure test is possible, because valves are closed, while a 4 cylinder always stops with valves open. What do you guys think?

nhluhr · 05-16-2006, 05:51 PM

i find it unlikely that an engine would stop with both intake and exhaust valves open.

qoncept · 05-16-2006, 06:12 PM

A buddy of mine apparantly used a spinach can tapped similarly instead of the PVC pipe there. Should save you a buck or two and I hear it makes you tougher.

01G_WRX_02 · 05-16-2006, 07:21 PM

i really need to do this to my car, for some reason i think i have a leak somewhere

Sir_Xenon · 05-17-2006, 05:37 PM

Ah man how perfect is this solution... I know I have a leak 'cause the sound of the engine at WOT isn't raspy/angry like it was before. It's hard to explain but you can tell if it isn't "pressurized" enough.

jdgrimm · 06-08-2006, 12:19 AM

ok. so i build this exact setup tonight and i couldnt get any psi when i tried to fill it up. i didnt know how much to put it but i one point i probably pumped in 20-30 seconds worth of air and it didnt even read anything. i just took the airbox off and hooked it up to my turbo inlet and gave it a whirl.

anyone have any ideas?

mnrstrider · 06-08-2006, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdgrimm

ok. so i build this exact setup tonight and i couldnt get any psi when i tried to fill it up. i didnt know how much to put it but i one point i probably pumped in 20-30 seconds worth of air and it didnt even read anything. i just took the airbox off and hooked it up to my turbo inlet and gave it a whirl.

anyone have any ideas?

Nope no ideas, but I though I bump this, because I plan on building one or borrowing one locally soon

I know I have a leak, I gotta find it.

-Nick (xcelor8 on mnsubaru)

Vlad · 06-08-2006, 08:58 AM

I'm going th try again, this time with crankcase gases recirculation blocked off.

11-08-2005, 10:14 PM	#1
kingtut12 Scooby Specialist Member#: 81123 Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Louisville, KY Vehicle: 2002 2.5 WRX BY RIP 02' 2.5WRX PSM	Just completed the DIY "find your leak" tool. I followed Jorge (RiftsWRX) advice and built my own. Ran about 20psi into it and found 2 leaks. One at the throttle body and another in the inlet (vent hose). I fixed both leaks, but I would have never found them without this. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] I thought this would have cleared up my stalling issues, but it did not. Thats another issue that I've been battling for several months now. Sorry these pics are gigantic. * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

05-16-2006, 02:53 PM	#18
Vlad Scooby Specialist Member#: 46135 Join Date: Oct 2003 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 02 WRX Powered by Sti V9 Spec C	So maybe the throttle plate should be "helped" with a rubber cap on top of it. The pressure on my hookup never exceeded 3.5 PSI. I would want at least 15. First, I forgot to explain that even after I reversed the valve I was talking about earlier, there still was a buzz when I was pressurizing, only with a different pitch. So, either the valve is just not working right anymore, or it's normal. Second, as I was pressurizing, the pressure did not go up past 3 PSI, but when I would release the compressor chuck the tire valve would hold 3.5 PSI for a while. I could even walk to the trunk, bring the tire gauge, come back and still measure 3.5. It's just that there was no way to go up in pressure, almost like something was venting (nowhere visible) as fast as the tire compressor could pump in and was stopping venting at 3.5. I was spraying soapy water all the time. One thing I heard and believe might be true, is that all motors stop in the same respective position, every time. A mechanic once pressed out the starter toothed crown off the fly wheel, because it had a dammaged sector and then re-pressed it at a different position of the bad sector and that took care of the problem. If this is true you will, for example in a 6 cylinder have the engine stop in such way where a pressure test is possible, because valves are closed, while a 4 cylinder always stops with valves open. What do you guys think? Last edited by Vlad; 05-16-2006 at 03:14 PM.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
This just in - the War on Drugs is a complete failure	FightingFalcon	Political Playground	1655	05-12-2013 03:33 AM
A complete n00b's guide to changing the oil in your WRX (with pics!)	perret318	Service & Maintenance	140	06-23-2012 12:38 PM
Swap complete, just lost the clutch!	SJwrx	Pre-2002 Factory Turbo Powertrain	9	05-08-2010 01:56 AM
The longest lasting DIY paint your wheels thread	chimchimm5	Tire & Wheel	1	04-03-2010 01:26 PM
Just got the Escort ZR3 and Passport 8500. Your thoughts on the product.	Chandy69	Tri-State Area Forum	13	05-09-2005 05:58 PM

11-08-2005, 10:26 PM	#2
KmanRuffian Scooby Specialist Member#: 48360 Join Date: Nov 2003 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Vehicle: 2011 WRX 5-door Silver	That is awesome man, this is exactly what I need to do. Got a couple questions for you: Could you list the materials and where you got them? Is the valve just for a tire or what? And how did you secure it in the PVC pipe? I see lots of sealant so I assume it's just glued/sealed in? Also the other question I have is where is that plugged in to? Turbo inlet? I was thinking of doing this also but wasn't sure where to pressurize the system from and what outlets have to be blocked off so that air won't just escape from the system through a vent hose or whatever. I guess the PCV system is self contained so maybe you don't have to block it off huh? Thanks much, -D

11-08-2005, 10:41 PM	#3
kingtut12 Scooby Specialist Member#: 81123 Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Louisville, KY Vehicle: 2002 2.5 WRX BY RIP 02' 2.5WRX PSM	I have Perrin turbo inlet which is 2.75 inches internal diameter. I went to Lowe's Home Improvement store to purchase it all, but I'm sure Home Depot or any Hardware store would have it. List: Sku# 23306 - 2" DWV Plug MIPT Sku# 23302 - 2" Cleanout F adapter Sku# 23360 - 2" Long sweep Elbow Tire valve stem at Pep Boys Cement glue and silicone I glued the DWV into the elbow Then I dremmeled a hole for the valve into the cleanout adapter. The valve stem pressure fits and seats into a groove (kinda like a snap-grommet) Then I put cement glue around the stem just for added strength Then after it is totally dry, I smeared a generous amount of silicone around it. Screw the cleanout into the DWV plug, and use a wrench to really tighten that sucker down. Then I stuck the whole piece into the Turbo inlet and clamped the heck out of it. I also plugged the 3 ventilation ports on the top of my inlet. Ran about 10psi through it at first and didn't notice anything. Then I turned it up around 20-25 psi and found the leaks immediately. Fixed the leaks by adjusting pipe and retightening. Did another test and no leaks. Car started up with NO rough idle as it had before. .

11-08-2005, 10:47 PM	#4
phantomsr Scooby Newbie Member#: 69071 Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Edmonton Vehicle: 2002 Stg2-WRX Wagon WRB & Dust	Did the same thing but I just capped the turbo inlet and pressurized through a fitting in the inlet. He has that pressurized from where the MAF elbo connects to the inlet pipe. Full intake leak check. Much easier than trying to listen for a leak over the running engine. Make sure you don't over pressure. I wouldn't exceed 20 PSI and I only used 15 on mine. Unless you have disconnected the PCV valve you will pressurize the crankcase too.

11-08-2005, 11:07 PM	#5
RiftsWRX Scooby Guru Member#: 6124 Join Date: Apr 2001 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Glendale Hts, IL, USA Vehicle: 2000 NFR AP1 S2000 '07 Honda FIT sport (5MT)	Giving credit where credit is due, I have to thank Justin (jnorth85). He is the one who originally made that tester replica for me. It's been a god send. Jorge (RiftsWRX) www.ProjectWRX.com

11-09-2005, 01:49 AM	#6
gpatmac Scooby Guru Member#: 18446 Join Date: May 2002 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Alexandria, VA Vehicle: 2002 WRX wagon psm	Thank you Jorge and thanks Kingtut.

11-09-2005, 02:12 AM	#7
Ski Bum Scooby Newbie Member#: 95393 Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Citrus Heights, CA Vehicle: 2004 Forester XT jasonfxt @ sf.org	What sort of compressor did you uses? or was is a hand pump?

05-14-2006, 05:42 PM	#9
Vlad Scooby Specialist Member#: 46135 Join Date: Oct 2003 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 02 WRX Powered by Sti V9 Spec C	Sorry to resurect, but did this today and got a humming/buzz from the evaporative system purge valve, that small capsule located in front of the intake manifold, by the back of the alternator. Did anybody else get that? Also, I did not think the pressure rised above 2 PSI. What I did not understand is how do you guys prevent air from leaking past the throttle body. Depending where the engine stopped, valves could be open and the air could just end in the exhaust, no? Please help me out. Vlad

05-14-2006, 10:10 PM	#11
djerickd Scooby Guru Member#: 3782 Join Date: Jan 2001 Chapter/Region: South East Location: Tampa Btch! Vehicle:* 02 WRX WFC#040 Clean on 19's	Nice work, can I borrow it? seriously!

05-15-2006, 09:26 AM	#13
Vlad Scooby Specialist Member#: 46135 Join Date: Oct 2003 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 02 WRX Powered by Sti V9 Spec C	A while ago I did the work with removing the intake manifold, to fix the cold fuel leak. I did it with the factory manual. One thing that the factory manual did not mention, is that there is a direction of installation of that valve, for the 2 lateral hoses. There's a little arrow on it and it's marked E/G. I re-checked the manual and could not find clear directions on how it should be hooked up, except for reading the main diagram. Anyway, the arrow was pointing in the wrong direction, towards the manifold. I tool the valve out and tried it and it seemed to close fine. But I may have to replace it.

05-15-2006, 11:56 AM	#14
subieworx Scooby Guru Member#: 47769 Join Date: Nov 2003 Chapter/Region: MWSOC	Wow, that's complex. I would have just mad (and have for my dsm in the past) a small cap that would fit inside the inlet (where you have it connected) with a rubber valve stem made for wheels. Costs $2 and only involves drilling a hole in the cap for installation.

05-15-2006, 01:11 PM	#15
Sir_Xenon Scooby Specialist Member#: 9666 Join Date: Aug 2001 Chapter/Region: E. Canada Location: Toronto Vehicle: 02 WRX Ver. 7 STi swap'd bugeye	excellent, been meaning to do this for a while.... but, what about leaking out of valves that are open in the engine? I'm surprised it works, will have to give it a try

05-16-2006, 05:51 PM	#19
nhluhr John Wayne Toilet Paper Moderator Member#: 7327 Join Date: Jun 2001 Chapter/Region: NWIC Location: Seattle, WA Vehicle: 2008 Mazdaspeed3 2006 Wrangler Sport	i find it unlikely that an engine would stop with both intake and exhaust valves open.

05-16-2006, 06:12 PM	#20
qoncept Scooby Specialist Member#: 44762 Join Date: Oct 2003 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Palo, IA Vehicle: 2013 BRZ WRB	A buddy of mine apparantly used a spinach can tapped similarly instead of the PVC pipe there. Should save you a buck or two and I hear it makes you tougher.

05-16-2006, 07:21 PM	#21
01G_WRX_02 Scooby Specialist Member#: 89746 Join Date: Jun 2005 Chapter/Region: NESIC Location: MA Vehicle: 2002 WRX Stage 4 PSM w/Gold RPF1's on 255s	i really need to do this to my car, for some reason i think i have a leak somewhere

05-17-2006, 05:37 PM	#22
Sir_Xenon Scooby Specialist Member#: 9666 Join Date: Aug 2001 Chapter/Region: E. Canada Location: Toronto Vehicle: 02 WRX Ver. 7 STi swap'd bugeye	Ah man how perfect is this solution... I know I have a leak 'cause the sound of the engine at WOT isn't raspy/angry like it was before. It's hard to explain but you can tell if it isn't "pressurized" enough.

06-08-2006, 12:19 AM	#23
jdgrimm Scooby Specialist Member#: 74386 Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: www.awdaddicts.com Vehicle: 02- 2.5 Hybrid GrimmSpeed	ok. so i build this exact setup tonight and i couldnt get any psi when i tried to fill it up. i didnt know how much to put it but i one point i probably pumped in 20-30 seconds worth of air and it didnt even read anything. i just took the airbox off and hooked it up to my turbo inlet and gave it a whirl. anyone have any ideas?

06-08-2006, 08:58 AM	#25
Vlad Scooby Specialist Member#: 46135 Join Date: Oct 2003 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NY Vehicle: 02 WRX Powered by Sti V9 Spec C	I'm going th try again, this time with crankcase gases recirculation blocked off.