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Old 08-09-2006, 03:24 PM   #51
djerickd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by athakur999
That's pretty neat. Now someone make something like this for the exhaust side
You could cap the exhaust tip and start the car
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Old 08-09-2006, 03:31 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djerickd
Ahh, in the stock configuration yes. Mine is a little different setup. I would remove all the lines from the inlet and cap them all as they all normally see vacuum. You could do one way check valves but that could get pricey...

I think the best approach would be to pressurize the actual turbo compressor inlet vs. the inlet tube. Actually I want to remove my TMIC and pressurize directly at the TB.
That's how we used to do it on DSM's. You take the inlet off and cap the turbo. Much easier...on that car. With the lack of room on a stock style turbo setup on these cars though, it would make that difficult.
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Old 08-09-2006, 04:37 PM   #53
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which line is the PVC then? Thanks.
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Old 08-09-2006, 04:44 PM   #54
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Check behind your intake manifold underneath the throttle body.
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Old 08-09-2006, 04:47 PM   #55
subieworx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir_Xenon
which line is the PVC then? Thanks.
It's the last line on the inlet right by the turbo.
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Old 08-09-2006, 04:59 PM   #56
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excellent, thanks!
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Old 08-09-2006, 05:28 PM   #57
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so i have the pressure tester, and am now just concerned with procedure to go about the test. can someone outline the steps involved in doing this? so far what i understand is:

1: remove airbox and after maf hose
2: plug turbo inlet hose with pressure tester
3: remove three inlet hose lines and cap the inlet hose off in those three locations (do you cap off the lines as well?)
4: use compressor to pressurize the system up to about 20 psi (what if your car will be tuned to run more than that? what is a safe max psi??)
5: listen for leaks, using soapy water if necessary to pinpoint them
6: fix leaks, and make mad jdm horsepower yo

what am i missing? anything? tia...
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Old 08-10-2006, 01:10 PM   #58
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bump?
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Old 08-10-2006, 01:16 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrinkleboi
so i have the pressure tester, and am now just concerned with procedure to go about the test. can someone outline the steps involved in doing this? so far what i understand is:

1: remove airbox and after maf hose
2: plug turbo inlet hose with pressure tester
3: remove three inlet hose lines and cap the inlet hose off in those three locations (do you cap off the lines as well?)
4: use compressor to pressurize the system up to about 20 psi (what if your car will be tuned to run more than that? what is a safe max psi??)
5: listen for leaks, using soapy water if necessary to pinpoint them
6: fix leaks, and make mad jdm horsepower yo

what am i missing? anything? tia...
You pretty much have it. 20 psi is just a figure you don't want to exceed. It has nothing to do with the amount of boost you are going to run. If it is going to leak at 25 it will leak at 15. You don't have to cap off the lines that you remove from the inlet. Just plug the holes and call it a day. I would use soapy water for sure as they can sometimes be difficult to hear....sometimes not.
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Old 09-03-2006, 02:46 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valhakar View Post
The 2" fitting wont work with the Stock turbo inlet tube.
Quote:
Originally Posted by subarwho? View Post
Its not a 2" pipe for the stock inlet. Tried it last night, way to small(on a 2002 wrx anyway).
Quote:
Originally Posted by nhluhr View Post
dunno how many times this needs to be said, but YES it IS 2". You don't put it over it, you jam it inside. The reason is because you'll be pressurizing it. If you put it over the inlet, it will expand and blow itself off. If you put it inside the inlet, it will expand and seal itself tighter.
OK just for a visual reference of how you make this, I took some pics:




And yes, that's a 2" rubber cap with a valve stem installed in the end (drill a hole, screw down the locknut on the stem). You cram it into the end of the pipe and as you inflate it, it can only force the seal to be better. Using this rig, my roommate's 04STi held pressure for several minutes.
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Old 09-03-2006, 03:17 PM   #61
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held pressure with EGR blocked off?
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Old 09-16-2006, 10:52 PM   #62
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I just have to say THANKS guys for the valuable information provided here-in NASIOC. I've been trying to track down a running rich, low power problem for the last 3 weeks. I was really beginning to think My motor was fubarred! I finally resorted to making up my own boost leak tester and hooked it on an intercooler pipe after the turbo going to my fmic.

Here is the link to what I found including a datalog.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...7#post15187117

I just bought a 2inch plastic cap from the hardware store. I then drilled a hole and then just threaded in a quick connect fitting for an air line to my compressor. I turned down the air control on my compressor and then hooked up the air line. Then I turned on the valve and kept it on real low. Instantly I could hear air leaking out by my driver side foglight cover. It was pretty loud. Turns out a weld on my fmic let go. It was a crack 4inches long!

Last edited by boostedscooby2002; 09-16-2006 at 10:58 PM.
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Old 09-17-2006, 12:18 AM   #63
djerickd
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holy crap!
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Old 09-17-2006, 02:02 PM   #64
boostedscooby2002
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Yeah, scary thing is I could still get her up to 14-15psi. I hope and pray I haven't damaged my poor vf34 from over-spinning.

Here's a pic of where the leak is:

Last edited by boostedscooby2002; 09-17-2006 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 09-17-2006, 04:40 PM   #65
nhluhr
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ahhhh the power of diagnosis
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Old 09-17-2006, 07:17 PM   #66
ahains
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Seeing a cracked weld on an FMIC made me instantly wonder if this is an ssautochrome IC. I have their TMIC, so I was hoping this wasn't a sign of crappy welds

Looking at your previous posts, it looks like this is an Ultimate Racing IC (w/spearco core). Is the crack where the pipe attaches to the core, or is it in the core itself? Do you have any warranty support from UR?

Edit - actually are those short lengths of pipe that stick out from the core part of the core, or is that part of the piping? I don't know what comes with a bare core..
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:55 PM   #67
boostedscooby2002
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Yes it is an Ultimate Racing IC.

The crack is on one of the weld seams to the endtank itself. I have not contacted Ultimate Racing about the issue. I am not the original owner of this car/setup. I'm sure Ultimate Racing would take care of me if I were to go there, But I think it will be allot easier to just remove it and take it someplace local and get it welded back up. I don't want to drive 200km's just to get it fixed. Despite the crack.... this fmic is still a very nice piece. They put together a very nice stage 3 package.

I believe the bare core would be just the center finned part of the cooler without the endtanks. I think UR welds their own endtanks onto a bare core. Don't quote me on this though. I think they sell their fmic as a kit.... as in, it comes with all the piping to route to turbo and motor.

Last edited by boostedscooby2002; 09-17-2006 at 10:02 PM.
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:22 PM   #68
vipernj
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wow, nice find about the leak! good thing you made the tester.. im going to do this as well. After putting my 9psi spring in my TiAL, and using some shims, i think its leaking... ill check tonight!
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Old 09-20-2006, 10:13 PM   #69
Sir_Xenon
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I did the leak test and I found something interesting. There is a purge valve that is connected to the second (from the MAF side) inlet to the turbo inlet pipe. This valve is located just to the left of the alternator, can't miss it and sorry I don't have a picture.

At first I didn't pinch that line to block off the pressure to that purge valve and noticed it fluttering, a lot like the noise I keep hearing. I don't have other leaks and am just wondering if anyone knows what the function of that valve is and if under pressure that valve should flutter? Thanks, great thread and great help.
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Old 09-20-2006, 11:50 PM   #70
Vlad
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I heard a buzzing noise from that same valve. I think there's something in this tread about it's function being related to PCV under boost.
So, what happened, more specific? At first you didn't pinch the line to the valve and it held pressure, except for the noise?
Then you pinched the line and it held pressure? or did it just not hold pressure and you were only listening for air escape sounds?
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:28 PM   #71
Sir_Xenon
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I pinched the line that goes to the purge valve and it held pressure and there was no noise. I guess what I'm wondering about is, under boost, does that purge valve allow the pressure to bleed and is the noise I'm hearing the same noise the purge valve makes when I did the pressure test first?

I was going to change it just to check but it costs $45 so no.
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Old 09-21-2006, 04:57 PM   #72
Vlad
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thank you for the info.
Here's what happened with my test: Noise from the purge valve and no pressure held. Is this what happened before you pinched that hose? Yours didn't hold pressure either before pinching, other than the valve making noise?
I'm going to try this tonight with valve hose pinched.
I have the factory manual and I know i researched that valve and posted in this tread before about it.
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Old 09-21-2006, 05:14 PM   #73
Sir_Xenon
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That's what exactly happened to me. It would be interesting to put the car on a dyno and have it at WOT to hear it. Please let us know what you find about the purge valve, good info.
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:58 AM   #74
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I tried yesterday evening, but I was using a portable compressor. The test was inconclusive. I will try with a regular compressor in the weekend.
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:04 AM   #75
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I readed a bit more about the purge valve and saw the diagrams. It connects to the carbon cannister. The way it's set up, the middle connection is the one that turns the valve on or off. It is never meant to receive high pressure air through one of the two lateral connections, because the area connected to, at the turbo intake tube is always under vacuum. So maybe the air lifts the needle of the valve.
If I would have to guess what happens if this valve fails, I would have to say that you would bleed some pressure from the intake manifold back to the turbo intake tube, or, depending on the status of the purge solenoid, into the carbon cannister.
There is a little arrow on the valve, you can check and see if it points in the right direction.
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