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Old 07-28-2009, 06:36 PM   #126
txl146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantomsr View Post
Did the same thing but I just capped the turbo inlet and pressurized through a fitting in the inlet. He has that pressurized from where the MAF elbo connects to the inlet pipe. Full intake leak check. Much easier than trying to listen for a leak over the running engine. Make sure you don't over pressure. I wouldn't exceed 20 PSI and I only used 15 on mine. Unless you have disconnected the PCV valve you will pressurize the crankcase too.
WARNING GUYS:

Without disconnecting PCV valve, you will blow the cam seal.

Do not perform DIY leak check without disconnecting it.

Learned my painful lesson the harder way.
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Last edited by txl146; 07-29-2009 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:17 AM   #127
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lol ....
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Old 07-29-2009, 02:07 AM   #128
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This is very good info! I agree that removing the other end of your IC piping may be the way to go, but impossible if you have a TMIC. lol
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Old 08-03-2009, 10:21 PM   #129
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Here is mine, 2" cap inside an aftermarket inlet hose. Also used a schraeder valve with the rubber ring and a nut that I clamped down enough to seal it from the inside. No glue or anything and worked like a charm:





Unfortunately, I have a leak before the turbo that I can't seem to fix, due to the Perrin inlet hose not having a very good fit with my recirculation hose:



Anyone else have this problem with the Perrin inlet? I bought mine used, so I'm not sure if I am missing something or what....
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Old 08-03-2009, 10:42 PM   #130
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I had a leak there also so I ended up using a small clamp there.
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:27 PM   #131
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Does fixing a leak before the turbo really help that much? Seems like it wouldn't make much of a difference...
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:35 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSLegacyGT View Post
Here is mine, 2" cap inside an aftermarket inlet hose. Also used a schraeder valve with the rubber ring and a nut that I clamped down enough to seal it from the inside. No glue or anything and worked like a charm:





Unfortunately, I have a leak before the turbo that I can't seem to fix, due to the Perrin inlet hose not having a very good fit with my recirculation hose:



Anyone else have this problem with the Perrin inlet? I bought mine used, so I'm not sure if I am missing something or what....

I had this problem with my Gimmick inlet hose, and I have the Samco IC set so oddly enough they don't mate up very well. In fact, I'm beginning to become disappointed with even Samco's fitment. Other than the IC hoses, every other Samco hose I've purchased requires trimming with makes the hose look like crap all chopped up on the ends. I'm talking afta-MAF and radiator hoses.
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:41 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSLegacyGT View Post
Does fixing a leak before the turbo really help that much? Seems like it wouldn't make much of a difference...
Oh but it does. In fact, I cannot find the source of my post-MAF pre-turbo vacuum leak, despite many leak tests.... this is causing my car to run "lean" and my car keeps trying to add fuel to make up for it. Lean = no bueno beans for muchacho me. Sucks.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:07 AM   #134
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I doubt leak post-MAF pre-turbo vacuum leak will cause car to run lean unless it's one major leak...

1. turbo inlet to turbo connection
2. turbo inlet to BPV hose connection
3. torn turbo inlet
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:24 AM   #135
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Well the issue I am having is related to boost pressure. I have JDM V7 STi engine with a VF30 turbo. After my swap I was running 17psi (stock boost) consistently until I installed the Perrin inlet hose. After that I was only hitting wastgate boost, which I found out was because I had thrown away the hose from the wastegate T with the "pill" in it. Fixed that, but now I only boost to 10psi in first, 13psi in 2nd, and about 15psi in 3rd. I never had an issue with this until I installed the inlet hose, so I figure something has to be off.
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Old 08-04-2009, 01:05 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
I doubt leak post-MAF pre-turbo vacuum leak will cause car to run lean unless it's one major leak...

1. turbo inlet to turbo connection
2. turbo inlet to BPV hose connection
3. torn turbo inlet

You should see the guys over at RomRaider. They all swear to God that's my problem. My AF trims are a little out of whack. If I had it their way, I would continue to keep throwing new parts at my car. Maybe my MAF just needed scaling. Who knows. Still can't figure it out. And yes, I've checked those connections.
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Old 08-04-2009, 11:37 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
I had a leak there also so I ended up using a small clamp there.
What kind of clamp? Got a pic?

I'm going to go to the hardware store at some point and see what I can come up with. Such a PITA to get down in there, but I wouldn't mind the peace of mind knowing that it's got a good clamp on it....
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Old 10-06-2009, 05:46 PM   #138
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are any of you guys getting a check engine light prior to doing this test. im getting the engine too lean code that is why i think it is an intake leak which would mean im getting unmetered air into the system causing me to run lean. i think im going to try this tonight.
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:14 PM   #139
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Tried to do this yesterday but can't get air into the system. Air escapes from the exhaust. I've plugged up the two vacuum lines going to the plunger valve as well and it held a little bit of air. That's as far as I got.

Any ideas?

nm. figured it out. The compressor was not large enough.

Last edited by jlam86; 10-12-2009 at 03:39 AM.
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Old 11-08-2009, 03:42 PM   #140
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You have to have the engine rotated just right or you will blow air out of the exhaust...

MAKE SURE you disconnect the crank vent system. You will blow seals if not.

I just put 25psi into mine and found 2 small leaks at couplings (FMIC) but most importantly proved that I DONT have a blown head gasket/cracked head/blown out cylinder wall.

I'm having coolant issues and could not get it to bubble under pressure (only way to test it while sitting still).

I can live with a minor leak @ 25psi until my new couplings come in

AGAIN you MUST disconnect the crank vent system and allow it to VTA while doing the test (make sure you plug the intake tract where you disconnected the crank vent, otherwise you will just blow air out of that hole)

You WILL do damage if you don't...

-Jerod
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:22 PM   #141
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Or block the hose just before the throttle body.
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Old 01-24-2010, 11:41 AM   #142
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:36 AM   #143
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just did this today. instead of using the pcv piping I just used a cap from a spray can. drilled a hole in the middle, popped in the tire valve. did the whole thang and bam, leak from the bpv gasket. I don't know bout yall but I got kinda nervous putting so much air pressure in the system. I didn't even get passed 5 psi and I saw the whole inlet (silicon) expanding. changed the gasket..hopefully that gets rid of my P0171 and P1153. usually if I coast at a constant speed/throttle for bout 3 min the CEL will pop up..cruised for like 10 min and nothing yet. crossing my fingers
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Old 05-12-2010, 11:21 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsti.l View Post
Or block the hose just before the throttle body.
Does anyone have a picture of this hose?
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:39 PM   #145
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Can someone show a pic of exactly what hose to take off? Just take off the hose on the PCV? (wherever that is) sorry...kind of a noobie.

Or just a complete, thourough, step by step write up of how to do this properly? Making the fitting won't be a problem...I just don't want to blow gaskets when I pressurize the system.

Search results gave a bazillian responses, but I don't have time to go through them all...
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:03 PM   #146
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Bump for a step by step process. Could be a sticky if someone wants to post the procedure as this is EXTREMELY important.


All the best,


MvP
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Old 07-17-2010, 01:12 PM   #147
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can someone post me the link to RiftsWRX diy test, i cant find the thread
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:01 AM   #148
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Originally Posted by shibby2821 View Post
can someone post me the link to RiftsWRX diy test, i cant find the thread

Go to PandLmotorsports.com and lookup the instructions/info part of site and it will be right there.


All the best,


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Old 07-21-2010, 02:23 AM   #149
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Here the guide on leak testing from P&L, page 9: http://pandlmotorsports.com/misc/car...ehicle-1.2.pdf

Personally I will not be unhooking PCV, that requires you to take off IC and complicates the leak test. Looks like taking off oil cap should be enough.
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Old 07-21-2010, 07:19 AM   #150
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I've recently tried again to do this test. I tried to put around 15 PSI into the system, while at the same time turning the crank, to find the pressure position. Still no go for me.
It picks up and holds maybe 2-3 PSI, that's it.
Later, I discovered that the purge valve was installed with the arrow in the wrong direction however.
I'll try again.
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