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Old 11-11-2005, 02:25 PM   #1
Bud Brown
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Default Best Engine Management...

Well i am about to boost the legacy, probably around 8psi, and am curious as to what peoples opinions are about the best engine management. I would like to be able to hook it up to my laptop, and be able to change different aspects on the fly, suggestions?
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:01 PM   #2
8Complex

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A carburator and a magneto are the best, IMO.


Perhaps you should be a little more specific. Both on your setup and what you want regarding EMS.
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Old 11-11-2005, 03:54 PM   #3
kevin2.5rs
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Boosting an N/A will not be reliable
I'd go for a swap
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Old 11-11-2005, 04:34 PM   #4
JessesTalon
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for you if Rallitek's perfect power works on legacy's go for that, can't get cheaper/easy than that. Not sure if the PP can hook to laptop im sure it would though. go to rallitek.com
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Old 11-11-2005, 05:41 PM   #5
GregBolby
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"Boosting an N/A will not be reliable"


Ummm ok?


Im still here.

G
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Old 11-11-2005, 07:30 PM   #6
lovemylegacy
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Rallitek's Perfect Power (SMT6 or 7 depending upon the year of your leg) is awesome. Its a piggy back setup up which means that you still use the factory ecu, so you can still get cold starts and all the check engine light stuff is still fucntional. It will still use the barometer in the factory ecu and some other stuff that keeps the car running smooth and drivable. The Perfect power cuts into timing and fuel injection so that you can change them "on the fly." The perfect power hooks right up into a lap top and is formatted for dos or windows so its supper easy to use. For the best possible tune, go to a dyno to work the small kinks out, but if you have room to do a 3rd gear pull (get up to speed, lug it in 3rd and all the way up to red line on the floor) then you can tune it nicely on your own. On an N/A car keep the Air Fuel ratios to ~12.5-13.0 to 1 (parts of air to parts of fuel). That is about optimal for power. You will want a knock sensor so that you can listen for knock and if it starts to knock, run higher octane or pull timing back. Doing both also works well. If you dont have to pull timing at all, typicaly, that makes better power. To tune more accurately, you wil need a wide band O2 sensor also, so that you can read much more accurate air to fuel ratios. You can still tune with the stock O2 sensor, but it will be harder to squeeze all the power out of it. With all that I'm typing, it might seem a little tricky, but its really quite easy. There are a few general rules to it that you should know, because if you are not careful, you can destroy the motor, but get on the Rallitek web site and call them up and Sean (the guy who owns the place) will tell you al you want to know about it. I've spent hours talking to him. They do a GREAT job. There is a online class thing they have going thats free on the forum if you have questions. Check it out. Its really cool stuff. The Perfect Power has memory for two maps, and the lap top could hold thousands of maps, so if you are turbo, you can set up full power drag launches so when you let the clutch out, it goies into the other map, or one for gas mileage and one for power, or one that shuts fuel off at 4000 rpm so when your buddies ask to drive your car, they dont destory it. It also looks cool when you pull out your laptop out and see the power curve you made and change stuff. You'll have every car geek around drooling. I love em! you should check them out at www.rallitek.com
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Old 11-11-2005, 08:50 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin2.5rs
Boosting an N/A will not be reliable
I'd go for a swap
still here.....
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Old 11-11-2005, 09:34 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin2.5rs
Boosting an N/A will not be reliable
I'd go for a swap
Checking in. Go back to FFI.

-Brett
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Old 11-11-2005, 11:09 PM   #9
Aus_RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin2.5rs
Boosting an N/A will not be reliable
I'd go for a swap
12 Months and 30000km running 6PSI without a hiccup on an '02 (which supposedly blow up if even a turboed car goes past in the other direction).

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=653334

Glad to see I'm not the only one getting sick of this crap.
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Old 11-11-2005, 11:40 PM   #10
imp2.5
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It's been nearly 12 months for me too. I've been boosting between 4-8psi and sometimes around 9ish. Never really had a problem... yet
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Old 11-11-2005, 11:56 PM   #11
Sko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin2.5rs
Boosting an N/A will not be reliable
I'd go for a swap
Get out of this forum? "Aftermarket Forced Induction Powertrain"

Does a swap sound like an aftermarket unit to you?

I swear, the people that post in this forum w/ random comments...
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Old 11-12-2005, 01:11 PM   #12
imp2.5
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I think what he was trying to say is that if you do it right, an rs-t can be a reliable car. But if you want tons and tons of power, a swap is what you want to do. It is usually more costly, but yields better results.

and regarding engine management, I'm running a hydra and totally love it
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Old 11-12-2005, 01:32 PM   #13
reddevil
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10 psi and no engine management. Even I don't know why it's running so well.

But I like it!
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Old 11-12-2005, 01:47 PM   #14
NattiRex
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Megasquirt that bad boy!
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Old 11-12-2005, 06:54 PM   #15
Bud Brown
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lovemylegacy
Rallitek's Perfect Power (SMT6 or 7 depending upon the year of your leg) is awesome. Its a piggy back setup up which means that you still use the factory ecu, so you can still get cold starts and all the check engine light stuff is still fucntional. It will still use the barometer in the factory ecu and some other stuff that keeps the car running smooth and drivable. The Perfect power cuts into timing and fuel injection so that you can change them "on the fly." The perfect power hooks right up into a lap top and is formatted for dos or windows so its supper easy to use. For the best possible tune, go to a dyno to work the small kinks out, but if you have room to do a 3rd gear pull (get up to speed, lug it in 3rd and all the way up to red line on the floor) then you can tune it nicely on your own. On an N/A car keep the Air Fuel ratios to ~12.5-13.0 to 1 (parts of air to parts of fuel). That is about optimal for power. You will want a knock sensor so that you can listen for knock and if it starts to knock, run higher octane or pull timing back. Doing both also works well. If you dont have to pull timing at all, typicaly, that makes better power. To tune more accurately, you wil need a wide band O2 sensor also, so that you can read much more accurate air to fuel ratios. You can still tune with the stock O2 sensor, but it will be harder to squeeze all the power out of it. With all that I'm typing, it might seem a little tricky, but its really quite easy. There are a few general rules to it that you should know, because if you are not careful, you can destroy the motor, but get on the Rallitek web site and call them up and Sean (the guy who owns the place) will tell you al you want to know about it. I've spent hours talking to him. They do a GREAT job. There is a online class thing they have going thats free on the forum if you have questions. Check it out. Its really cool stuff. The Perfect Power has memory for two maps, and the lap top could hold thousands of maps, so if you are turbo, you can set up full power drag launches so when you let the clutch out, it goies into the other map, or one for gas mileage and one for power, or one that shuts fuel off at 4000 rpm so when your buddies ask to drive your car, they dont destory it. It also looks cool when you pull out your laptop out and see the power curve you made and change stuff. You'll have every car geek around drooling. I love em! you should check them out at www.rallitek.com
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Old 11-12-2005, 10:52 PM   #16
Paul H
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Default management

Personally I would not run anything but a standalone when boosting an N/A engine.
The Legacy can be a funny animal. Depending on the year and country of sale it can have different triggers.

There are people that were running 12 psi on an N/A engine as a daily driver with the Autronic SMC. Car was fast and smooth.

I am using the SM4 and will have a turbo installed in about 2 more weeks.

When you want to "change things on the fly" you have to be careful that you really know what you are doing. Even at 8 psi you can blow your engine with a simple mistake.

My suggestion is that you do a HUGE amount of research and talk to the guys that are running a setup similair to what you want.

Good luck, boost on an N/A engine is a blast. You may not be able to attain huge HP but then again your stock tranny cannot handle much over 250 WHP anyway.

Paul H
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Old 11-12-2005, 10:52 PM   #17
Burton4g63
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Id obviously go with the Nightrider setup.

http://test222.ytmnd.com/
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:32 AM   #18
Drac9
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Autronic SM4 or Motec m800
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:20 AM   #19
kevin2.5rs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sko
Get out of this forum? "Aftermarket Forced Induction Powertrain"

Does a swap sound like an aftermarket unit to you?

I swear, the people that post in this forum w/ random comments...

what it was you people that told me boosting my 04 2.5rs was a bad idea

Last edited by kevin2.5rs; 11-13-2005 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:21 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus_RS
12 Months and 30000km running 6PSI without a hiccup on an '02 (.
12 months ok lets see what happens in 4 years
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Old 11-13-2005, 09:45 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul H
Personally I would not run anything but a standalone when boosting an N/A engine.
I used to feel the same way. I installed a TEC-2 and larger injectors before I added any boost parts. But I'm a lot less sure about that now. I imaginine the newer standalones are better, but the TEC is pretty quirky. Doesn't respond well to weather changes, and I find there just aren't enough adjustments to really get it to run nicely at low-throttle settings.

A factory ECU will run beautifully in all the off-boost situations, where you spend the majority of your time. If I were doing it all over again, I'd probably add a Perfect Power or e-manage Ultimate and a J&S ultrasafeguard onto a stock ECU, and handle the extra fuel needs with secondary injectors. Then you really just need to "tune" the boosted part of your power curve. Everything else is already working well.

_Jeff
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:47 PM   #22
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I am going autronic SM4 also.

Ben
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Old 11-13-2005, 02:36 PM   #23
Sko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin2.5rs
what it was you people that told me boosting my 04 2.5rs was a bad idea

*I apologize in advance for going off topic*

Well an 04... your car is worth enough where you should just trade it in for an 02-04 wrx.

Or if your stuck with your car, then I suppose boosting is an option... There are some good new kits out there and there are some good used kits out there if you want to save money (still sacrafice cruise control and AC I belive), Rallitek's kit should run around 3k-3.5k and retains AC still lose cruise. Only bummer w/ turbo is you gots lots more power so you have to think about a new clutch and go easy on your tranny or you will be shopping for one of those as well. It will also take a couple weekends or mabe over spring break or something to finish the instal, then it's gotta be either tuned, or you can run it with a pre-set map w/ perfect power, Sean has those.

Or you can go the N/A route, new headers, intake, exhaust, build your engine a little bit w/ high compression pistons, new cams, and Perfect Power engine management should net you over 200 chp, perhaps up to 230-240chp? (rallitekforums.com could use more members so check out those boards)

I'm not 100% sure.

I can understand your need for more power, and if you plan on sticking with your car upgrading your suspension should be another priority. The power will cost the big bucks, but suspension can be upgraded $100-$500 at a time, new strut bars today, new struts tomarrow, and new springs in a month. Your car will continue to feel alot differant w/ each upgrade, you won't be able to beat that stock STi on the straightaways, but you might take him in the corners with some work(STOCK STi).

Good luck kevin.

Nick

PS- *On Topic* Rallitek has a "new" perfect power unit, it's still a piggyback unit but it has full control over closed and open loop paramaters, so its more like a stand-alone unit, but for emissions etc. you can switch maps or go to stock settings easily. I haven't talked w/ Sean too much about it, but it sounds pretty sweet.
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:35 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sko
* you won't be able to beat that stock STi on the straightaways, but you might take him in the corners with some work(STOCK STi).
.
Thats why I traded it in for the WRX
<<<<<
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Old 11-13-2005, 04:27 PM   #25
Sko
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I c, pwnage, your all set then ^^

Alot of the turbo talk is for the guys with the 98-01 RS and LGT, cause for some reason we didn't get the turbo models the japanese got, and well... Its not a bad idea for us to just turbo our cars instead of trading them in, + the body style is teh pwn! Although the 04+ has a nice bodystyle as well.
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