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Old 08-19-2011, 01:46 PM   #76
nhat
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posting this link in all the 4pot rebuild threads that come up: http://www.z1motorsports.com/product...oducts_id=3366
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Old 08-19-2011, 03:06 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhat View Post
posting this link in all the 4pot rebuild threads that come up: http://www.z1motorsports.com/product...oducts_id=3366
Whats awesome, is the internal o-rings are included too!
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Old 09-19-2011, 09:43 PM   #78
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The rings do not come in the the kit, they can be reused. fyi, I found it best to split the calipers, and use air to get the pistons out. I tryed without air and it was difficult to budge the piston.when I applied air I found splitting them makes it easy to control the air to push the piston that you want to push.
just watch out for those pistons they come out real fast.
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:20 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhat View Post
posting this link in all the 4pot rebuild threads that come up: http://www.z1motorsports.com/product...oducts_id=3366
Quote:
Originally Posted by teiva-boy View Post
Whats awesome, is the internal o-rings are included too!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02WRX26 View Post
The rings do not come in the the kit, they can be reused. fyi, I found it best to split the calipers, and use air to get the pistons out. I tryed without air and it was difficult to budge the piston.when I applied air I found splitting them makes it easy to control the air to push the piston that you want to push.
just watch out for those pistons they come out real fast.

I know they can be re-used. However, the kit linked, explicitly states they are included... Or are you referring to the Subaru rebuild kit? Which does not.
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:57 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhat View Post
posting this link in all the 4pot rebuild threads that come up: http://www.z1motorsports.com/product...oducts_id=3366
So these front and rear kits will work for the Subaru 4/2 pots?
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:12 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crpwrx View Post
So these front and rear kits will work for the Subaru 4/2 pots?

n0....no they dont work at all....they didnt get posted here because they dont work and it was a waste of time posting them here and a waste asking if they work
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Old 09-23-2011, 05:42 PM   #82
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Thanks dickhead for yet another useless post. I didn't know if the two pot kit would work for our rears as well as it's a different make kit. Take your menopause out on your boyfriend and keep it off the forums please.
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Old 10-06-2011, 12:52 PM   #83
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I can verify that these O-rings ARE NOT the same as the OEM O-rings.

The O-Rings that I JUST bought from z1motorsports are rounded and not squared...

The only explanation I have is that maybe the heat and pressure of use caused the originally rounded O rings to take the shape of the recesed spot for them which is squared.

Here is a close photo of the O-Rings from z1motorsports:




****EDIT**** I just called z1 motorsports and they verified that the Nissan 4/2 pots come with the squared o-rings as well. They have rebuild "hundreds" of the sumisoto (same maker as subaru) nissan calipers with these rounded O-rings and have had no issues at all.

That makes me feel confident enough to install them in my 4/2 pot rebuild. I should be done with the fronts in about a week so I will let you guys know if I have any issues.

Last edited by harrymaneuvers; 10-06-2011 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 10-06-2011, 01:56 PM   #84
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Squared or rounded it shouldn't matter, as long as it's the right size to squish and seal without over ballooning. As well as the right type of o-ring to survive the temps and fluids.
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Old 10-06-2011, 02:04 PM   #85
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Also, to answer the question earlier in the post about replacement pistons... Godspeed brakes in the UK makes a set of stainless steel pistons...

He wanted 110 british pounds ($170 US) for the front kit... but that included the OEM rebuild kit AND the inner O-rings.

The rear was like 70 british pounds...
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Old 10-17-2011, 06:01 PM   #86
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Here is my 4 pot rebuild that I just finished.

Bought for $350 shipped from a no-name german dismantler in SoCal.

This is how they showed up with next day shipping





After sand blasting them. Note that I taped the piston areas...




Calipers with all pins, clips, pads, pistons, seals and boots removed.



A few of the pistons had surface rust on the outside of the piston (not the part that seals). That was removed with Evapo-rust.



Split calipers, remove AND SAVE O-Rings, tape mating surfaces.

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Old 10-17-2011, 06:05 PM   #87
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VHT flameproof Primer. Note I left the old bleeder in as I was replacing them with speedbleeders. I also got a bolt to seal the brake line hole.





3 Coats of VHT Real Red Caliper paint:





I ended up REUSING THE OEM O-rings because they fit the recessed opening much better than the Z1motorsports O-Ring.

OEM notice how the O-ring is nearly perfectly fitted to the opening:



Z1motorsports Notice the gap between the rounded O-Ring and the recessed area that it fits in:



Reassembled with touch up coats of Red paint along seams of calipers. FYI I tried two methods of covering the piston area prior to painting. One involved using newspaper to stuff the hole for the piston and use the boots/rings that are going to be replaced anyways to cover the area. The other involved using clean release duct tape. Both worked great but the first method was quicker.



Applying Ebay Hi Temp decals from seller SuperGraphicsF1 (website is http://www.supergraphicsf1.com/Brakes-Subaru.htm)





3 coats of VHT Caliper Clear Coat over the decals then time to start putting the seals and pistons in.


Last edited by harrymaneuvers; 10-17-2011 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 10-17-2011, 09:15 PM   #88
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Finished product fully reassembled.












A few thoughts on the process:

Splitting the calipers seemed to be the easiest way to cleanly paint under/around the bolts.

The O-Rings in the center seemed completely unaffected by the first 4 years of use. I opted to use the OEM ring instead of the Z1motorsports o-rings.

I would recommend barely rebolting the two sides together prior to touching up any seams or missed spots and baking. If you try to tightly bolt the two sides together before baking the final product, the soft paint will tear or pull up right around the bolt flanges where they make contact with the painted surface. In thinking about it afterwards, the rear 2 pots didnt have this problem because the bolt has a washer and not a flange... adding a washer between the flange bolt and the soft, painted surface might eliminate this issue while the paint is still soft. Then after all touch-up and baking is done (paint is hard), the washers can be removed one at a time to avoid the calipers splitting the painted seam again.

Once you take the calipers out of the oven, DONT TOUCH THEM AT ALL. The paint is hot and INCREDIBALLY easy to peel and tear.

The decals seem to be of REALLY good quality and they were really easy to apply.

Thanks for reading!!!

Last edited by harrymaneuvers; 10-17-2011 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:11 AM   #89
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Great write up harrymaneuners!
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:57 PM   #90
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I rebuilt one caliper, and am in the process of rebuilding the 2nd. Each of them has had a piston seized almost beyond the point of being removed without damaging anything. The first one I had to tap the piston back in with a hammer for reassembly.

Now I'm on the 2nd one, and I just gave up on the one stuck piston after hours of trying everything from compressed air to heat to prying to PB blaster.... If I can't get it out tomorrow, I'll be in the market for new calipers.

Any suggestions?
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:57 PM   #91
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Yes... I have a suggestion...

Get an air compressor with a rubber tipped air nozzle.

Then get the biggest burliest zip ties you can find. The ones I used were about 1/2 in wide and about 2 feet long. Harbor freight or a REAL truck stop would be the best places to find these.

Put one or two zipties around each of the pistons that you have no problem removing... leaving the one to be removed "un-ziptied". Make sure that the zip ties are as tight as you can get them. The goal is to keep the free moving pistons from breaking the zip ties or stretching them to the point where the piston clears the seal and the pressure is released.

I am sure you could use something besides zipties that might be stronger but I cant think of anything at the moment.

Cram a bath towel or something else thick and plush in between the pistons and put another towel over the entire caliper leaving only the brake line bolt hole on the back.

Start low with the PSI... maybe around 40 or so and work your way up... I can just about guarantee that the one cylinder that doesnt have a zip tie securing it will pop.


BE INCREDIBLY CAREFUL with this method... if you get a finger (or anything else) in the path of the exiting piston it will probably be taken off.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:20 PM   #92
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I got the a set of 4/2 pot calipers from my friend but accidentally missing one bleed screw on the rear caliper.
Does anybody know where I can get the bleed screws?
any help will be appreciated.
YZ

the one in the yellow circle.
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Old 01-28-2012, 12:18 PM   #93
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Bringing her back from the dead again....

I re-wrote the original directions, since my first post date I have rebuilt these calipers 3 times.

Some notes I can add over all this time:
-No matter how well you clean up the inner surface (exposed to the back of the brake pads) of the pistons, they will rust again and again with no adverse effects to braking.
-Use a high quality synthetic grease when reinstalling your brake pads and the slide pins which hold them. Don't ever use any spray can brake quiet compound on the back of the pads or on your slide pins or they may never come back out of the calipers again.
-Inspect and re-lube your calipers every season, I find that the 4-pots require more attention than other kits.
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Old 01-28-2012, 02:04 PM   #94
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thanks for the updates
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:46 PM   #95
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rebuilt both of my front calipers with the help of this thread. 4pots are certainly not immune to sticking. Both lower pistons were stuck real good on one and just one lower on the other.

The screwdriver method works well for the easy ones. I was able to use a large pair of vice grips to get the stuck ones out. First by turning and then pulling them out. Of course the pistons were damaged in the process but new ones should be used anyway if they are real rusty. Can't stress enough...equal pressure when you are pulling them out or pushing in, anything else make it real difficult.

bought my kit here
http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/p...&idcategory=18
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Old 10-17-2012, 08:13 AM   #96
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I dismantled my Brembos last weekend. No way could you remove the pistons undamaged without air. I'm sure the OEM Subaru calipers are similar. You really shouldn't have to replace pistons!
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:11 PM   #97
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Hey guys, what is a good way to stop the brake fluid from coming out? If u were to take ur brembos off and rebuild it and re paint it?

I mean as soon as u remove the caliper banjo bolt, fluid is going to leak out until master cylinder runs dry, and we are not suppose to let it go dry or else u need to bench bleed.

So what is a better way to stop the fluid from coming out.... to prevent running dry
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:26 PM   #98
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How do you plan on rebuilding the calipers while keeping the brake fluid in? You need to pop the pistons by pushing air through the banjo bolt hole. Thats going to make a hell of a mess if you still have fluid in the calipers. Plus brake fluid is pretty nasty and caustic stuff.

That said, you've got me thinking that maybe its an interesting idea to fill the calipers with a small funnel before reattaching the line. That would make the bleeding process quicker...
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:38 PM   #99
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He's not talking about the calipers, he's talking about the lines and MC. And no idea what the best way to keep it from draining out is. Maybe just thread a bolt and nut through the banjo?
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:58 PM   #100
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i might be inclined to see if nitril or latex gloves disintigrate in brake fluid and if NOT, cut a finger off one and put it over the end of the line and tape it or rubber band it to slow down the leaking
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