Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday October 24, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
Click here to visit TireRack
Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack

Losing traction? Need new tires?
Click here to visit the NASIOC Upgrade Garage...
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Brakes, Steering & Suspension

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-28-2013, 12:14 PM   #126
gsrcrxsi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 236952
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Baltimore
Vehicle:
2010 WRX (SSM)
Stg "2+" 300hp/360trq

Default

well have fun with that. personally i wont risk it.

thats why i ended up re-using the original O-rings when i rebuilt my 4-pots and 2-pots. the o-rings that came out of the rears looked pretty bad, but still sealed fine. the o-rings that came out of the front looked perfect though.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
gsrcrxsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2013, 12:21 PM   #127
darkmist2k1
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 31364
Join Date: Jan 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: jersey
Vehicle:
Ver6 Trek and couple
bottle of gatorade 4boost

Default

http://www.freshalloy.com/showthread...-McMaster-carr

and they used viton.. which is not that compatible with brake fluids. The EPDM should be same if not better..



UPDATE: I found AFLAS orings ( kinda expensive imo)

Front:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.p...ducts_id=11570
Rear:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.p...ducts_id=11572

Last edited by darkmist2k1; 03-29-2013 at 12:21 AM.
darkmist2k1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2013, 11:47 PM   #128
darkmist2k1
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 31364
Join Date: Jan 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: jersey
Vehicle:
Ver6 Trek and couple
bottle of gatorade 4boost

Default

Found out that silicone or VMQ is also a suitable material for brake fluids and temperature range from -75F to 450F .. I think this win for compatibility, temperatures resistance, and price.

Front:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.p...oducts_id=4707

Rear:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.p...oducts_id=4709
darkmist2k1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2013, 10:27 AM   #129
darkmist2k1
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 31364
Join Date: Jan 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: jersey
Vehicle:
Ver6 Trek and couple
bottle of gatorade 4boost

Default

So i ordered the Centric caliper seal kit, apparently it does come with the SQUARE orings that goes between the calipers but only after 03/2013 (Weird thing is why they gave me 4orings when each package is for 1 caliper). Just want to point this out and share it with the nasioc community.

meanwhile i did have oring on order from the place mention above.. a set in AFLAS, VMQ(silicone) and EPDM.

The one on the left is the part package in 8/2012 and the right is package in 3/2013. BOTH still unopen



Last edited by darkmist2k1; 04-15-2013 at 11:39 AM.
darkmist2k1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2013, 11:06 AM   #130
gsrcrxsi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 236952
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Baltimore
Vehicle:
2010 WRX (SSM)
Stg "2+" 300hp/360trq

Default

very nice. glad to see that.

wonder if the centric 2-pot kit is the same.
gsrcrxsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2013, 12:41 PM   #131
darkmist2k1
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 31364
Join Date: Jan 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: jersey
Vehicle:
Ver6 Trek and couple
bottle of gatorade 4boost

Default

Update on my rebuild..

I end up using the AFLAS orings that i purchased from oring store rather than using the square ones that came with the centric kit. Ive also soak them in brake fluids and they kept its shape, size and hardness prior to install. Its been 2 weeks now, and it has no leaks. I've also done some heavy braking on hp+ pads just to get the temperature up and no leaks as well.
darkmist2k1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-28-2013, 10:45 PM   #132
northernwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 165099
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: clear AFS, AK
Vehicle:
2006 wrx
WRB

Default

how important are the shims http://knsbrakes.com/carSeriesDetail...20.5mm%20Thick
i am doing a install of 2 new front 4 pot calipers but dont have the shims
northernwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2013, 07:30 AM   #133
gsrcrxsi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 236952
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Baltimore
Vehicle:
2010 WRX (SSM)
Stg "2+" 300hp/360trq

Default

You don't need them.

Those are Titanium shims for reducing heat transfer to the caliper.
gsrcrxsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2013, 10:02 AM   #134
northernwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 165099
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: clear AFS, AK
Vehicle:
2006 wrx
WRB

Default

thanks so much, i guess i can always install them later if i think they are needed.
northernwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2013, 10:42 AM   #135
gsrcrxsi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 236952
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Baltimore
Vehicle:
2010 WRX (SSM)
Stg "2+" 300hp/360trq

Default

i dont use any shims at all. the only shims on there are the shims/plates that come attached to the StopTech SP pads
gsrcrxsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2013, 10:58 AM   #136
northernwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 165099
Join Date: Nov 2007
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: clear AFS, AK
Vehicle:
2006 wrx
WRB

Default

thats really good info because i have the same pads purchased for my car!

thanks
northernwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2013, 12:20 AM   #137
monkeyposeur
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 333468
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: SLC, UT
Vehicle:
93 SS
Black Pearl

Default

Thanks for the DIY! I just acquired some JDM STi ver 6 brakes and used your post to dismantle them.
monkeyposeur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2013, 07:31 AM   #138
Uncle Scotty
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK Houston
we have an Uncle

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by northernwrx View Post
thanks so much, i guess i can always install them later if i think they are needed.

some of us are smart enough to use the shims because they help keep the brake fluid from boiling...heat shields ya know
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2013, 12:24 PM   #139
gsrcrxsi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 236952
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Baltimore
Vehicle:
2010 WRX (SSM)
Stg "2+" 300hp/360trq

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post

some of us are smart enough to use the shims because they help keep the brake fluid from boiling...heat shields ya know
For someone who's all about practicality and not wasting money on "because racecar" items and being "k00 n s hit", it would really surprise me if you actually use those shims.

You see.

1. You should be using a better more heat tolerant brake fluid anyway if you're worried about heat. And since you're all over ATE's nuts in every single brake fluid thread, I'll assume you are.

2. These are really only needed in a track racing scenario, when you are actually putting enough heat into the brakes to even get to the boiling point of your upgraded fluid.

3. You've stated to get over 50k miles on a set of STSP pads, so you're obviously not driving harder than a grandma. And obviously not subject to point #2. Plus we all know you dont go anywhere near a track.

So quit the BS Scotty.



OP, if you want to waste your money on Ti shims for street driving, go ahead. Just know that unless you plan to track your car, you'll never see the benefit.
gsrcrxsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 08:05 AM   #140
gsrcrxsi
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 236952
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Baltimore
Vehicle:
2010 WRX (SSM)
Stg "2+" 300hp/360trq

Default

Wow. How drunk are you? Isn't it only like 6am there?

I drive harder than you, I've never boiled fluid. The shims are not needed at all for street driving. Hell look at the KNS link up there. The description clearly says "on the track" multiple times. Better fluid would be a more appropriate use of funds.

Edit: I see a mystery mod has done some cleanup. Thank you
gsrcrxsi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2013, 06:38 PM   #141
Mechie3
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 120152
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Indy
Default

Square o-rings are simply designed to allow for more axial misalignment. Sealing with square rings can be slightly lower due to a larger contact surface and thus lower pressure across the face of the o-ring. It's almost negligible.

I just bought the Z1 kit (all 4 calipers). Rear caliper kit came with round o-rings, the front kit came with square o-rings.
Mechie3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2013, 10:13 PM   #142
mlthomas
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 344284
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Hamburg, NY
Vehicle:
2004 Impreza WRX
WRB

Default

Nice write-up!! I've been looking into purchasing 4 pots, and more than likely used just b/c of cost, and i'll prob end up rebuilding then. This will help for sure.
mlthomas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2013, 08:39 AM   #143
rjs1022
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 341952
Join Date: Dec 2012
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Vehicle:
2007 WRX
Black

Default

Anyone have the part # for 4 pot caliper pistons?
rjs1022 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2013, 01:49 AM   #144
Dominator
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 156712
Join Date: Aug 2007
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Vehicle:
1991 Legacy SS
Pearl White

Default

I just looked it up the other day, here you go.

OEM Number: 26236FA010
Dominator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2013, 05:13 PM   #145
flyboymike
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 83765
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: The modern Yellow Peril
Vehicle:
2005 WRX wagon
WR Blue

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
very nice. glad to see that.

wonder if the centric 2-pot kit is the same.
In case anyone was wondering about this, no, the 2 pot kit only has boots and piston seals.
flyboymike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2014, 04:33 AM   #146
Eww Evo
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 299687
Join Date: Nov 2011
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: NASA UTAH
Vehicle:
2.5L Rallispec Block
06' Wrx Track Car

Default

This thread is exactly what I needed, thanks!
Eww Evo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2014, 11:53 AM   #147
BoostinChick
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 218971
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: West Chester, PA
Vehicle:
2007 WRX
Black

Default

Found this thread as well in a dire need since my passenger caliper had a seized piston. Very useful, thanks much guys!! I purchased the Subaru parts, but also picked up the Centric kit for half the cost to keep as a spare. I can't believe how easy these are to rebuild compared to Brembos!
BoostinChick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 06:30 PM   #148
Sandstorm27
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 290437
Join Date: Aug 2011
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: CT
Vehicle:
06 WRX limited
OBP

Default

This DIY was awesome, huge help. One question I have is that two Pistons were totally wrecked. I ordered two from CARiD and while they're the same size, the imprints on the bottom are different (the aftermarket Pistons don't have the three raised circles - they have flat bottoms) and they weigh slightly different (OEM is 5.1 oz vs 5.3 for aftermarket). Do you all think the new ones are usable or should I order two more from Subaru?


Sent from my iPhone using NASIOC
Sandstorm27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 06:34 PM   #149
sackytar
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 149262
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Rapids MI
Vehicle:
03WR Rally/XTDD/98SJ
PrimerGrey

Default

As long as the new ones are the same in size and dimensions I think you will be all set.

Do you own a micrometer? If not harbor fright always has the cheap 9 dollar digi ones. Or be a baller and get a good one.
sackytar is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
RacingBrake 4-pot Calipers: 50% lighter than Subaru 4-pot & fit under OEM WRX Wheels! AZP Installs Tri-State Area Vendor Classifieds 20 12-11-2012 03:27 PM
Subaru 4-pot Piston Removal/Rebuild JayGold Brakes, Steering & Suspension 12 11-10-2005 09:07 PM
Subaru 4-Pot rebuild tutorial? Wrinkleboi Brakes, Steering & Suspension 0 10-12-2005 01:01 PM
Wilwood 4 pot vs Subaru 4 pot Jaz_rs Brakes, Steering & Suspension 25 05-13-2004 12:03 PM
Wilwood 4 pot vs Subaru 4 pot BIGSKYWRX Brakes, Steering & Suspension 124 12-09-2002 11:07 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:30 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.