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Old 11-13-2005, 05:33 PM   #1
powerlabs
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Default Help with spring swap please?

I'm swapping my stock springs back on for winter and have the following problems:

1- How do I know which spring goes in front and which one goes on the back? I assume they are different, but can't tell which one is which.
2- How do I know which side of the top hat points forward? Also, I know the top hats are different for the front and for the rear; how can I tell which one is which?
3- How on earth do I get the top strut bolt off without scratching the hell out of the strut cylinder by grabbing it with pliers? No, I don't have air tools.

Thanks a lot. I really wish someone had a good write up on this. I'll take some pictures and maybe do my own if you help me out with these questions.
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:44 PM   #2
RallyImprezive
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The rear springs are slightly longer.

I used a cloth, and folded over a few times (4 or 6 maybe), then gripped the shaft with vise grips. It did not scuff the shaft, and worked well for me.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:12 PM   #3
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I'm sure there's a write up on scoobymods. Anyhow:

1. Yes they are different - shorter in front. It will be obvious when you get yours dissassembled. The springs will not seat properly in the wrong strut perches.

2. the front top hats have a bearing in them (because the front struts have to turn during steering). They have three little holes which line up like the vertices of a triangle to point 'out'. The rears may have 'OUT' stamped on them - the New Age ones do.

3. if you have stock struts, there's a hex socket in the top of the strut shaft - you use a 'pass through socket' and stick an allen key through it to hold the shaft. Or you can use a strap wrench around the shaft. NOT PLIERS! Or you can find a friend with air tools - or an electric impact (although you're going to have to figure out how to torque it back up for the re-install - don't use an impact for that).
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:28 PM   #4
RallyImprezive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UkNuck
I'm sure there's a write up on scoobymods. Anyhow:

1. Yes they are different - shorter in front. It will be obvious when you get yours dissassembled. The springs will not seat properly in the wrong strut perches.

2. the front top hats have a bearing in them (because the front struts have to turn during steering). They have three little holes which line up like the vertices of a triangle to point 'out'. The rears may have 'OUT' stamped on them - the New Age ones do.

3. if you have stock struts, there's a hex socket in the top of the strut shaft - you use a 'pass through socket' and stick an allen key through it to hold the shaft. Or you can use a strap wrench around the shaft. NOT PLIERS! Or you can find a friend with air tools - or an electric impact (although you're going to have to figure out how to torque it back up for the re-install - don't use an impact for that).

I agree that pliers seem like a bad idea, but if correctly padded, it works fine. Maybe some thick rubber would be better. Its not like that nut is on there so tight that you have to clamp down like a mad man. Heck with my Ver6 struts, I was able to hold the stanchion with my hands and have a friend torque the nut down correctly.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:33 PM   #5
Sudafed
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if they are on the car then the weight of the car helps, just loosen it a little bit before you take it off.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:36 PM   #6
RallyImprezive
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sudafed
if they are on the car then the weight of the car helps, just loosen it a little bit before you take it off.
Forgot about that. Good idea.
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:43 PM   #7
supermarkus
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Go to sears and grap some metric "gear wrenches" and a 6mm hex head socket for a 3/8" drive rachet wrench, that will help loosen the top center bolt.

The front top hats are much simpler in design than the rear, that's the best way for me to describe them, sorry.

There should be stampings on the top hats that say out------>
pointing to the outside of the wheel well.
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