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Old 03-01-2006, 08:43 PM   #51
2phless
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There is a filter in the banjo that feeds the turbo too. It's in the same line, on the back of the psgr head, same style filter, but used in a much simpler manner. Anyone know if it needs to come out too? I don't think so... but I found it and thought I'd throw that out there.

That filter did have some sediment in it. Not clogged by any stretch, but it caught some goo, so folks might want to check it if the others were clogged, or if the other filters came apart... the pieces from the front passenger one might have flowed back to that one.
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Old 03-08-2006, 12:39 AM   #52
Gregmatic
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Just did mine tonight on my 04 Baja T. Pretty easy to do and definitely smoothed out the idle. I used two small picks and a little finesse to get them out (both had dropped completely).
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Old 03-08-2006, 03:27 PM   #53
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just did mine in my 04 sti with 14k on it. both dropped completely....need to see if it helps my idle concern. probably only placeabo effect. we'll see. thanks Peaty for the info...this is why i love NASIOC.
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Old 03-08-2006, 03:43 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modaddict
just did mine in my 04 sti with 14k on it. both dropped completely....need to see if it helps my idle concern. probably only placeabo effect. we'll see. thanks Peaty for the info...this is why i love NASIOC.
Did you use new washers on the union screws or reuse the old ones?
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Old 03-08-2006, 10:01 PM   #55
my94saleen
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Default rough idle

do you use synt. oil. at a dealer recently they had 2 legacy gt's that both had horrible idles.(both had variable cam timing codes)they put regular oil in and both cars were fine. want to put in my 06 sti has 4k miles on with.but this is the 2nd time in the past 6 months that iv heard of this happening.
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Old 03-09-2006, 09:24 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STI_FFY
Did you use new washers on the union screws or reuse the old ones?
I re-used the washers. Nary a leak afterwards. Just torque teh unions appropriately
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Old 03-09-2006, 09:27 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my94saleen
do you use synt. oil. at a dealer recently they had 2 legacy gt's that both had horrible idles.(both had variable cam timing codes)they put regular oil in and both cars were fine. want to put in my 06 sti has 4k miles on with.but this is the 2nd time in the past 6 months that iv heard of this happening.
Never heard of any kind of oil screwing up timing. Were they using synthetic gear oil in the motor?

FWIW, I've used Royal Purple 5W-30 since the first change without a problem.
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Old 03-09-2006, 10:56 AM   #58
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RP 5w-30 user here as well. My car used oil when i first got it. Switched to RP at 10,000 miles and the oil consuming has seamed to have gone away. The only thing i notice is burning oil when the car is cold if you don't let it warm completely up before you drive down the road. Leaves a little smoke for a sec or two. oh well, plenty left on the ol warranty. Looking into this now tho.
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Old 03-09-2006, 05:02 PM   #59
my94saleen
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Default rough idle

reg syn oil,like i said its only happened two a few cars( 2.5L turbo w/variable cam timing.)
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Old 03-12-2006, 10:26 PM   #60
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both of mine had dropped, did the fix this weekend, idle is much smoother. Thanks for the info!
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Old 03-13-2006, 11:51 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STI_FFY
Did you use new washers on the union screws or reuse the old ones?
i reused mine...i think i may have spent 10 minutes to perform the mod/repair. i even torqued the bolts. i may have noticed a slight difference in idle, however if it kept the avcs on, i would have really noticed a difference.
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:25 PM   #62
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Just did this mod, took about 15 minutes. I was able to reuse my washers. Both filters had dropped. There is a slight difference in idle, but the 2 second "stumble" I experienced when starting the car warmed up is now gone.
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Old 03-18-2006, 07:01 PM   #63
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Removed mine as well. Both of mine had dropped. Have not noticed a difference though.
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Old 03-19-2006, 09:28 PM   #64
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I'll chime in. 04STi 23K on motor. Took 10 minutes to do, both filters were clean as a whistle, but were dropped inside the fitting. So far down that I used a wide plastic straw to suck em out. Idle is rock solid now. Can't believe something so small was the culprit of an issue I'd wondered about for over a year. HA.

This thread RULES.
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Old 03-20-2006, 05:48 PM   #65
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Car: '04 Sti with ECUTEK 18psi (rest of powertrain stock), 24k miles
Symptom: Slightly rough idle from the day I bought it, but a sound like valve ticking under load between 2000 and 3000 rpm prompted me to try this mod.
Oils: Mobil 1 5W30, Motul 300V 0W20 and 15W50, Amsoil 20W50 Race, 5W30

Both of my filters had dropped. They were quite clean. I reused the same copper washers with 2lb-ft of extra torque and had no leaks.

It did not fix my ticking problem, but it lessened the problem slightly. Ticking happens only under acceleration, not under cruise anymore. (Will be checking AVCS behaviour on the Dyno this week.)

Note: If you are going to do this at 10pm on Sunday after wine at dinner, when you have to leave for work at 6am, order the extra washers just in case you drop one. Copper is not ferrous so I had to use chewing gum on the end of my extendable magnet. You can't run out and buy copper washers so easily in a small town before 6am.

Common sense? Yes. But common sense is not so common.
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Old 03-21-2006, 06:39 PM   #66
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Did this to my STi (20K miles) a week ago. Took 10 minutes, and of course, both filters had fallen in.

The driver's side filter had some (I counted 5) tiny, shiny metal flecks outside the screen. The passenger side was clean.

I switched to M1 syn at 12k miles. Oil consumption is well within acceptable limits now. Maybe lose 1/2qt over 4k miles.

One question I had was as I was reinstalling the bolts, I wondered if the hole in the bolt needed to be aligned with the hard line at the union. By the time I'd torqued them appropriately, they were both slightly past aligning with the hard line.

Should I loosen them and try to re-install to get them to line up? Or does it matter? Doesn't seem like it should matter, but would be ideal if they did align.

-Michael
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Old 03-24-2006, 11:58 PM   #67
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When I had my banjo bolts, I marked them with a sharpie for the direction of the oil path, and torqued until they were aligned. (I think 24ft-lb on one, 25ft-lb on the other) Do I think it's necessary? No, they weren't torqued for alignment originally. Did it give me peace of mind that I was optimizing flow? Yeah.

P.S.: One bolt had it's pass through on the hex "flats", the other on the "corners."

P.P.S.: Most consumer grade torque wrenches have accuracy of +/-4%. At 25ft-lb, that's +/- 1ft-lb.
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Old 03-25-2006, 09:40 AM   #68
2phless
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2phless
There is a filter in the banjo that feeds the turbo too. It's in the same line, on the back of the psgr head, same style filter, but used in a much simpler manner. Anyone know if it needs to come out too? I don't think so... but I found it and thought I'd throw that out there.

That filter did have some sediment in it. Not clogged by any stretch, but it caught some goo, so folks might want to check it if the others were clogged, or if the other filters came apart... the pieces from the front passenger one might have flowed back to that one.
There is also a filter in the feed end of the driver's side tube. But it is behind the back part of the timing chain cover. Both problem filters are therefore redundant. So anyone worried about no filtration in those lines, need not worry.

But given the chance, you might want to check and clean the filters at the feed ends of those lines as well. Both of mine had a few particles in them at 45k. Nothing major, but they do catch stuff.
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Old 03-27-2006, 12:46 PM   #69
baja6620
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I am planning on removing the screens on my 04 BajaT...I notice that on the right side, there are two metal lines blocking direct access to the bolt head. Problem for others? Removable?
Thanks.
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Old 04-02-2006, 06:22 PM   #70
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Peaty, thank you very much for the valuable infos and write up

I just did it on my car, it was very easy.

For public infos, both my filters were out of their union bolts and were just sitting in the oil control valve housing.
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Old 04-03-2006, 02:07 AM   #71
OA5599
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thanks peaty.
as always - everything you need to know and how to do it on SCOOBYMODS.

parts are on the way for my filter elimination countermeasure.

one question though -

from the TSB :
"there is the possibility that the union screw filter of the Active Valve Control System (AVCS) could be damaged affecting the oil control valve."

i was wondering if any of you guys could help me understand,
in excruciating detail ,
what are the mechanics involved in how the affected oil control valve causes a rough idle and/or unsmooth rpm increase ?
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Old 05-28-2006, 01:53 AM   #72
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Just checked this on my 04 STi - 39000 miles; the screens were loose on both sides. Re-used the washers and seems ok so far. I hadn't really noticed any idle issues, but I'm glad I have them out of there just in case.
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Old 05-28-2006, 03:43 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2phless
Done this morning. FMIC plumbing made the drivers side hard, but still pulled nothing out to get the job done. 30 min tops.

Both screens had dropped, both were clean @ 43k miles. I wonder what they were designed to catch since whatever it is, it isn't floating around my motor.

Didn't make a difference at all so far. I have an odd issue where the car will raise RPM as I came to a stop (clutch in, foot off throttle), sometimes running up to 2000 rpm and it won't drop to idle until it come to a full and complete stop. Rolling 1/4 mile per hour it still revs... once I stop dead, the idle drops to normal. Been doing that for a long time. My condition isn't what I'd call a "rough" idle, but an erratic, or uneven idle. No pops or misfires.

The other idle issue I had/have, and I won't know until tomorrow AM if it's fixed, is when I remote start the car cold, and after the engine warms for about 5 minutes, the idle pulses. Slow RPM climbs for about 2 seconds, then drops back rapidly to idle, and repeats immediately.

Also, the car, since installing the UTEC, takes like a moment for the ECU to come to life on startup. Key in, ignition,start sequence too quickly and the initial idle was always nasty, or would stall back out. But it'd clear up after the O2 warmed up and idle fine. Or if I wait 2 seconds-ish between ignition and start, it's always fine. The UTEC may be part of my whole issue too.
As an aside, I have noticed that same thing about hesitation to start since getting my UTEC installed. Annoying.
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Old 05-28-2006, 03:45 PM   #74
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And now that I'm the last one who still has not done this TSB... OK, OK. You guys have shamed me into it. I'm doing it today! What the hey, it's raining anyway. Might as well spend a little "quality time" in the garage.
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Old 05-28-2006, 04:29 PM   #75
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Default 05 sti

Do the 05 STI's have this problem? My vin: 5*513678? I have the symptoms. They came out of no where. WHat do you all think?
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