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Old 11-19-2005, 05:00 PM   #1
bonzai
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Exclamation Take a look at my port job on a test head..

Here is my test head off my 2.0. Had to order a new one since I ate into the bowls down to the water jacket...lol..





Let me know what you guys think. I need to do some more smothing out but other than that.. When you see the bowls ... one is basically stock and the other is is done.

Any opinions and or help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
bonzai
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Old 11-19-2005, 05:49 PM   #2
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There are shops that can do it for you... save you the trouble of buying new heads after you eat them up
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Old 11-19-2005, 05:56 PM   #3
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^^ ^^

That is cool man, an original and ballsy project for DIY. I have disassembled heads before but wouldnt dare try a P&P.

Do you have before pics to compare to?
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Old 11-19-2005, 06:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwarcup
There are shops that can do it for you... save you the trouble of buying new heads after you eat them up
why did even post that? You state the obvious and you add no value.


bonzai, what bits did you use, a standard porting kit?
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Old 11-19-2005, 07:02 PM   #5
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I started with a regular die grinding bit for steel... then went and bought 2 aluminum bits. one is shaped like a christmas tree with a rounded top... Thats the best. Then just a set of stones for smooth off or grind a wider rounder whole. I am going to buy some more soon that will include (or use drimel barrels) flapper type sanding bit for smoothing out a bit more..The hot side is the problem. There is a lot more tunnel so to speak. So its hard to get to. I am going to get a extended die prolly on monday to get those hard to reach spots. The other key is not to try and get one spot.. use smooth motions.. Least this is what I found. I am up for suggestions.



The aluminum bits you have to watch out for.. they shave rather quickly.

The reason I didnt send them off to the shop is the same reason I took the engine out of the car. I wanted the satisfaction of doing something that just everybody cant do. Also it costs about 1200 or more for what I am doing. I ported out my own turbo.. and works very very well. Once I get my mind set on something.. thats it.. i am doing it. I am very positive (now that I already screwed up one head.. and new one will be here soon I hope) about the out come of this. As you can see.... It doesnt look too bad. and more I do the better I get. I usually have a good eye for things like this. Perfection is good!

Also going to be creating my own fuel rails if time permits.. Holly has a good aluminum fuel rail for custom setups.. Looks like a good start...


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Old 11-19-2005, 08:12 PM   #6
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Come on people..tell me what you think...lol!!
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Old 11-19-2005, 09:54 PM   #7
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i like it, u wanna come do mine?
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Old 11-19-2005, 10:05 PM   #8
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Well no... but.. if you want to send em... I can make you a deal probably... LOL... trade something for it.. oor something..

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Old 11-19-2005, 10:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by verc
why did even post that? You state the obvious and you add no value.


bonzai, what bits did you use, a standard porting kit?
Sorry, didn't mean to **** in your cereal.
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Old 11-19-2005, 11:09 PM   #10
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Nice start! I've had success using 60 and 120 flapper wheels on the ports...it does get a little interesting once you get under the bowl. How long did it take you to do what's in the pictures?
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Old 11-19-2005, 11:14 PM   #11
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looks pretty good, but the real test is if the valves seat correctly. also to make sure they are all matched up as closely as possible. overall from the pics looks good though. what are you going to do for the exhaust side?
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Old 11-19-2005, 11:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwarcup
Sorry, didn't mean to **** in your cereal.
lol... tis all good man... I am sure most would think i am nutz... but I already know this.. Always pushed the envelope... And I really like developing stuff..

Next up is a fuel rail...
Then Electronic cooling kit... dont know if i am going to set it up for the intake or the intercooler... Will mostlikely keep the temps at least 70 degrees maybe even below 40 degrees Farenhiet.


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Old 11-19-2005, 11:23 PM   #13
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^^^^^^ I think it's cool that you're doing it yourself. I just wish I had the time/money/know-how to do the same. My comment was smart alecky with a touch of jealousy. Keep up the good work.
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Old 11-19-2005, 11:49 PM   #14
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can you post a link to this holley fuel rail youre talking about? curious...
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Old 11-20-2005, 12:11 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXelerator
Nice start! I've had success using 60 and 120 flapper wheels on the ports...it does get a little interesting once you get under the bowl. How long did it take you to do what's in the pictures?
So where did you get the flapper wheels.? Well one side (after playing around and learning what to do and not to do) took about 30 minutes for the base... little extra to clean up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fat angel
looks pretty good, but the real test is if the valves seat correctly. also to make sure they are all matched up as closely as possible. overall from the pics looks good though. what are you going to do for the exhaust side?
Well as for the valve seat.. I will leave that up to axis racing. They are doing the shortblock on my 2.5 swap. On the heads they are putting in titanium buckets, valvejob, and 272,264 cams. exhaust side is a pain. I will be opening them up and smoothing out the flow where the vavle seats. I will post pix prolly monday or something. Already did most of it. (on the test head) next week comes the good head. Exaust side is a pain. Going to have to get an extended bit...


Quote:
Originally Posted by fat angel
can you post a link to this holley fuel rail youre talking about? curious...
http://store.summitracing.com/largei...art=HLY-534-79


Honestly ...this is not for just anybody... fuel rails included lol... not going to be good if the fuel rails pop a fitting and blow fuel ...hahaha.. I would not like that. I will try to find the site I found that shows how to ...


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Old 11-20-2005, 12:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonzai


http://store.summitracing.com/largei...art=HLY-534-79


Honestly ...this is not for just anybody... fuel rails included lol... not going to be good if the fuel rails pop a fitting and blow fuel ...hahaha.. I would not like that. I will try to find the site I found that shows how to ...


bonzai
well i assumed thats what you had in mind. should be interesting to see if you can get them to work. good luck.
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Old 11-20-2005, 12:28 AM   #17
bonzai
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This isnt the link i had before.. but good one none the less. Shows some essentials for fuel a rail.

http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys.html
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Old 11-20-2005, 12:34 AM   #18
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Ahh here it is...
http://www.sdsefi.com/techrail.htm
good tech write up.. for intakes and fuel rails.
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Old 11-20-2005, 02:09 PM   #19
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The most common mistake in head porting is removing too much material. I guess you know this... Props to the huge pair it takes to try this. But remember all the material you remove is more space for the air to compress. That means lag... Clean up the ruff spots while leaving as much material as you can.
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Old 11-20-2005, 03:16 PM   #20
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looks pretty good so far.

this kind of pnp work however is very difficult to critique without a flow bench, let alone with just pictures. We've experimented with a few heads just as u have and have had pretty good results. Just fair warning however, it doesnt take much effort at all with a carbide to ruin your entire head.

In the end, i still feel its best to wait till you have the proper materials (flow bench) before really tackling any head. You could always rent flow bench time at a shop to make sure you are really improving the head as to destroying it.
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Old 11-20-2005, 04:25 PM   #21
bonzai
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If i knew someone that had a flowbench I would. I will have to check around somemore.

Quote:
The most common mistake in head porting is removing too much material. I guess you know this... Props to the huge pair it takes to try this. But remember all the material you remove is more space for the air to compress.
Well. hmm I thought the whole point was to make it flow better.. ie without obstuction. But how does it relate to more air to compress? I am guessing you are relating this to compression ration. Which would not be so. Unless someone can point out something different. Now if i were to work on the part of the head where the valves are that would be different. But that part will only be cleaned. No material take at all. Except for Axis Power Racing is going to resurface them probably. Thats the only time I know about that it effects the compression ratio. making the combustion chamber smaller and the compression higher. Therefor not having any effect on what the head pulls in. Not to put you down.. you might know more that what I am talking about or maybe I didnt get your point. But.. That would be like putting on a bigger intake and tb or a bigger turbo etc.. (each one of these add more room for air to flow)and saying that it was gonig to screw with the compression ratio. Just not going to happen... unless someone knows something I dont.. Which is very very possible.. I am a total newb when it comes to this. I just got a big ole brass pair.. I like to break out ever now and then to show off...


Thanks ver much for the input guys.. make me think harder at what I am doing to be sure not to screw them up.

bonzai
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Old 11-20-2005, 05:41 PM   #22
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I think you should hook up with someone who knows how to port heads and has a flow bench. The amount of people on NASIOC that really know how to port heads properly is damn close to ZERO. Removing gobs of material is not what it's all about - having each port flow the same is very important, too. Then there's this issue with how the ports flow at lower velocities - that's when experience and a flow bench pays off.

I paid to have my heads CNC'd on a 5-axis machine. The program was based on professionally (heavily) ported v7 STi heads.

Please, spend time and get advice from someone who really knows how to port heads - I don't mean some backyard Subaru mechanic.

ps.. your heads look nice - but it's all about the flow bench and real world experience.
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Old 11-20-2005, 10:25 PM   #23
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Got a pm from someone who is gong to help me do the job. I think. We will see I will post numbers pics etc... When I get to that point.
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Old 11-21-2005, 01:06 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonzai
Well. hmm I thought the whole point was to make it flow better.. ie without obstuction. But how does it relate to more air to compress? I am guessing you are relating this to compression ration. Which would not be so. Unless someone can point out something different. Now if i were to work on the part of the head where the valves are that would be different. But that part will only be cleaned.
You got one O them big spinnin thangs that make the car faster, rait?[/hick] There is pressure in the intake, called boost. Bigger intake passages mean more volume, and that means longer time to build boost. A small amount, but blueprinting is all about small amounts. Exhaust is the same thing to build pressure to spool up the turbo. This is why a big diameter up pipe is bad...
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Old 11-22-2005, 12:36 AM   #25
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Check out the beginnings of my swap. Just the gears to show for now. More to come.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...2#post11750592
bonzai

And who you calling a hick , I probably put a car together before you were even in school .... VW beetles... simular block wise to these!... and 88mm juggs too! lol..

bonzai
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