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Old 11-19-2005, 11:03 PM   #1
Peeblesmx445
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Default DIY TGV/Sensor Deletes. step by step(pics)

Just did my own TGV/Sensor delete and thought I'd share with you guys how it went and how to do it for that matter.

First off, I did this whole procedure because am putting a 3" FPRED on the car so I need to get rid of the sensor completely,otherwise it would have broke off eventually.

2nd, Air tools are your freind for this job, if you have em or know somebody who does....use them

3rd, I am not a professional at this! Im just posting how I did it so maybe someday someone will use this info to do there own , save some money, and learn something new.

Step 1: Remove intake manifold. Not gonna get into to much detail here. If you cant figure out how to do this than you prolly shouldnt be doing this at all.(I will say.... the stock fuel lines suck! There are a few bolts under the manifold that hold the fuel lines and the cars wiring that are a B**ch to get to ,but....good luck

Step 2: once the manifold is off then remove the TGV housing. You will be romoving all stock hard fuel line when you do this.Plug the holes to the cylinders w/ a few paper towels or something. Just make sure nothing gets down there including whatever your using to plug it! Now you should have something that looks like this...


Step 3: remove both black plastic ends(1 sensor and 1 motor) off each side of the tgv. Motor side should look like this..


Step 4: once that is done you are going to remove the gold butterfly flaps. you must grind the bottom side of the screws before trying to un-screw them!otherwise you will strip them out like I did take the flaps out and it should look like this...
Pics will be in next post

Step 5: With the flaps out you should now be able to remove the bar w/ a lil tap from a rubber mallet on the sensor side. There is a bearing on the motor side that needs to come out. On one of mine it came out w/ the bar , on the other it didnt and I just had to punch it out. There is also a copper insert on the sensor side that will be a b**ch to get out.. but that comes later. heres what it should look like now...
Pics will be in next post.

Step 6: This is where the air tools come in. The wall that seperates the air flow and the fuel inj. hole will be cut out.Ive read about the way to hack-saw it out but I had air tools so I used a di-grinder ,it cut through the alluminum very easy. Smoothin out the cut and you can begin porting or whatere else you like. I just cleaned it up and made it smooth but...rough. Remember you dont want mirror like finish otherwise the fuel and air wont mix properly before entering the cylinders...I think thats why??anybody? Not sure what all the bits were called but lots of sand paper and I remember a flapper something bit worked really nice Now it should look like this...
Pics will be in next post said I had to many

Step 7: Since I was removing the sensors too I needed to do more work
Go buy (4)3/8-24X1/2 allen head set screws from home depot or lowes, also pick up some teflon paste. You will use these to plug the holes on each end of the tgv housing were the bar went through. You dont need to worry about the holes in the middle of the the tgv connecting each passage way since they are both under the same air pressure/velocity ummm... something like that?? I would have but didnt have a tap small enough to get it in there so.. ohwell. Tap out each outter hole using a 3/8-24 tap, even the one with the copper insert( this is how we get this out) thread the copper insert with the tap and then hit the end of the tap inside to out from the inside of the air passage way. It should come right out. Now tap each hole. Not all the way through because then the set screws will never tighten. Tighten the set screws in after applying some teflon paste to each set screw. If you went to far and have some of the set screw hangin over on the inside of the tgv housing then just grind/sand it down till flush.

I think that is it! Remember , I am not a Professional, but if you have Q's I'll be on here to answer them.. if I can.
I Plan on sealing off the plugs and I hope my car doesnt go into limp mode( pdx said it would be fine) FPRED is in the mail and will be here on mon. YIKES. A RED on a 2.0 ............TURBO LAG. Looks like Im gonna have to use the funny gas to get her to spool I'm on the stock block so we will see what happens..... maybe a new stock block ej205 1/4 record?????? Ill post all that later after I install the turbo and have an impression to give. Well, thanks for reading and I hope this help. Flamers! take it somewhere else..please
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Last edited by Peeblesmx445; 11-20-2005 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 11-19-2005, 11:05 PM   #2
Peeblesmx445
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Step 4 pics


Step 5 pics
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Old 11-19-2005, 11:07 PM   #3
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Step 6 pics


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Old 11-20-2005, 12:21 AM   #4
Rasmusson14
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Well done!!!! I hear ya on the fuel rails. Those suck but everything looks great and a very informative write-up. You should think about submitting it to www.scoobymods.com
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Old 11-20-2005, 12:25 AM   #5
fat angel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasmusson14
Well done!!!! I hear ya on the fuel rails. Those suck but everything looks great and a very informative write-up. You should think about submitting it to www.scoobymods.com
agreed!!!

how hard do you think it would be to put the rod back in?
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Old 11-20-2005, 02:00 AM   #6
TypeC
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The next question is how are you going to deal with the CEL's from the TGV's being gone?
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Old 11-20-2005, 02:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeC
The next question is how are you going to deal with the CEL's from the TGV's being gone?
you can do all what he did and leave the sensors on and get no cels. thats what i did
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Old 11-20-2005, 09:04 AM   #8
PeteDucati
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeC
The next question is how are you going to deal with the CEL's from the TGV's being gone?
It only takes a week or two before you get used to the yellow light on your dash board. I went with v7 risers and there's no EcuTek fix for it. Guys have been bugging APS to sell just the sensor blocks, maybe they'll do the right thing.
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Old 12-10-2005, 02:34 AM   #9
joeyd02
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Great write up. I emailed a link of this to my friend who is working on my motor about this since I am going to be getting the FP Green.
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Old 12-10-2005, 09:54 AM   #10
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Excellent write-up and pics.
Arenít you a little concerned about those set-screws backing out after being exposed to all that heat, pressure, and stress? I wonder what other options are out there to seal those holes, or I suppose one could just put the rod w/motor and sensors back in (less butterflies of course)?

Great work!!
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Old 12-10-2005, 06:51 PM   #11
garie
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great work. i will be doing this mod soon
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Old 12-10-2005, 08:39 PM   #12
Peeblesmx445
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I only threaded the holes 3/4 of the way through, used locktite, and tighend em down. shouldnt come out...I hope!
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Old 12-11-2005, 01:34 AM   #13
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StreetTuner can turn off the CEL, I dont see why the EcuTek cant do it as well. But yes, as long as you leave that bar in, CEL is fine. But it looks so nice P&Ped
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Old 12-12-2005, 12:39 PM   #14
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You should submitt this to scoobymods, if you haven't already.

Good writeup.... I'll try to do it soon...
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Old 01-25-2006, 12:38 AM   #15
boosted20
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ok so if you pull the rod then you have to plug the rod holes by welding them shut right? I wouldn't trust some little plastic actuator or sensor to plug those holes. I guess I will have to look at it again. I left the rod in mine cause I heard something about limp home mode even when using a UTEC. looks like im taking it out sometime soon.
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Old 01-25-2006, 12:49 AM   #16
Peeblesmx445
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You do not have to plug the inner holes. Just the outer ones. I just tapped them and put some set screws in with a little teflon paste. (very easy to do) My car never went into limp mode after this mod.
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Old 01-25-2006, 12:56 AM   #17
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tape? or you threaded the holes then screwed them shut?
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:04 AM   #18
Peeblesmx445
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teflon paste. Yes I threaded the holes and then got the proper size set screws from lowes and screwed em in.
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Old 01-25-2006, 04:14 AM   #19
boosted20
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yeah that sounds like a good idea. I had a big difference in flow after just taking the clips off. im sure if I pull the rod and try the screw thing then get it tuned for the summer it will run much better.
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Old 01-25-2006, 10:49 AM   #20
SolidSnake
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Would you sugest this mod for a daily driver, are there any negatives to the mod?
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:28 PM   #21
subaman81
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Great write up. And good question Solidsnake
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:38 PM   #22
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what did you do about teh cel??
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Old 01-31-2006, 11:19 PM   #23
subeforlife2002
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Does anyone know what the hp gains could be from doing this mod? Has to be something, cause your bringing a lot more flow in.
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Old 02-11-2006, 06:46 PM   #24
bah14
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subscribed ...

I'm wondering how "reversible to stock" a mod like this is.... that's what's keeping me from a 3" FPgreen over a sz55FB.
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Old 02-11-2006, 07:38 PM   #25
djviper
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FPRED

sorry confused on this abreiveation whats it mean?
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