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Old 11-27-2005, 05:49 PM   #1
ExecNav
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Default E-Manage Users: Getting the Anti-Stall to Work

Was playing with the E-Manage today on the lappy, something I haven't done in forever. The last time I screwed around with the settings, I was attempting to get the anti-stall feature to work but inputting values in the table did nothing to the MAP output voltage. IIRC, there were many people who were having problems with this... heh. Anyway, turns out the problem was that I have no reading comprehension.



The anti-stall will only clamp the output voltage BELOW the value in the top box. It will not clamp the voltage AT the value. So I put in the number "1" in the TPS box and it works now. I have mine at 0.62 now. Anything lower than .50 will lean out and die and anything over .70 will flood.

-Brett
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Old 11-27-2005, 05:58 PM   #2
2.5 Blue Roo
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this is for idle correct?
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Old 11-27-2005, 06:28 PM   #3
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Correct.

A few other things to note and this only applies to the MY00-01 Imprezas. When using the rotary settings 3-4-2, on deceleration you might encounter an issue with the MAP output voltage from the E-Manage dropping down to below .09 volts. This would throw a low MAP voltage CEL. However, these rotary settings seem to provide a much more stable MAP voltage at idle.

The rotary settings 3-4-0 on the otherhand are the exact opposite. I noticed a much smoother MAP output voltage on deceleration but an erratic voltage at idle. But with these settings, it has never thrown a low MAP voltage CEL. I suppose using the Antistall function in either setting should fix both issues.

-Brett
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Old 11-27-2005, 09:39 PM   #4
ej25turbo
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just curious, is the e-manage a plug and play deal for your car? would it happen to work on a 98 rs?
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Old 11-27-2005, 09:55 PM   #5
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It should work better on a 98 since it was designed to be compatible with the MAF based Imprezas and not the MAP. It has to be wired into the ECU harness. Basically just like the AFC with a few extra wires. Power, RPM, TPS, MAF In/Out, Ground, Injectors, Ignition Wires, and possible a few more.

Check www.mohdparts.com. They might make a plug and play harness for it but it's probably not cheap.

-Brett
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:05 PM   #6
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Brett:
Could you post your final settings for the anti-stall map?

I have a MY00 with a 4EAT. On 3,4,2 I will have a flashing trans warning light the first time I let off the gas. Same problem. After much ****ing around we found a hotwire setting (3,6,3) that works quite well and throws no codes. However I do get a slightly uneven idle sometimes and a bit of a bog off idle. I would like to try 3,4,2 again as that gave the smoothest idle/off-idle response.
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Old 11-28-2005, 08:58 PM   #7
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Well, I learned something today. The Anti-stall function doesn't work like a limiter. It actually "pins" the voltage at whatever you input into the table. So whatever changes the ECU makes to adjust the fuel mixture at idle is negated. Because of this, I don't believe there is a perfect voltage you can set the output to that will keep it from stalling. I have tried several different voltages and I can't seem to find one that wont eventually stall the engine.

FWIW: Right now I have 0.80 all the way across the board with "1" in the TPS box. It's still dying at idle. I suck at tuning.

-Brett
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Old 11-28-2005, 09:08 PM   #8
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Hmm. That's odd because apart from the trans warning my car ran well on 3,4,2. I needed to add a little fuel in the just off-idle ranges so that the car would decelerate smoothly, otherwise I'd get some bucking coming out of the gas, just before 0% throttle was reached.
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Old 11-28-2005, 09:22 PM   #9
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I get an error code 11 (loss of airflow signal) almost every drive. Also, my car bucks quite a bit on deceleration if I go more than 3 weeks without resetting my ECU. I don't know if it's the ECU "learning" around the setting causing it to run richer but it's something I have yet to figure out. I will also start to see some massive idle surge with the A/C on which completely disappears upon resetting the ECU.

I like 3-4-2 and honestly, the erratic idle voltage has never given me any REAL problems. Sometimes my car dies at almost every red light and sometimes not at all.

-Brett
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Old 11-29-2005, 12:43 PM   #10
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I have never had good luck with the anti engine stall feature. IMHO it is designed poorly. You should be able to define a tps crossover at every rpm range as well as a clamp value. This way we could use 3-4-2 and simply correct the deceleration voltage, leaving the voltage at idle straight from the sensor.

redwagon: thats a great idea! adding fuel back into the off idle ranges to compensate for the voltage dropping on deceleration. Think of it as not really adding fuel back in, but adding voltage back in, as that is what you are really doing, as well as what needs to be done! I can't believe I didn't think of that. It seems so obvious!
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Old 11-29-2005, 02:12 PM   #11
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Redwagon, were you getting a voltage drop on decel with 3-4-2?

Yeah, even if it just worked like a base voltage limiter, I can set the output to .34 volts at 0% TPS while still allowing the ECU to make the necessary air/fuel adjustments to keep a steady idle. The Anti-stall basically renders your air conditioner useless at idle... (IBwhatairconditioner)

-Brett

Last edited by ExecNav; 11-29-2005 at 02:21 PM.
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:28 AM   #12
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Well, I was getting bucking on decel unless I let the pedal snap back to zero. If I gently lifted off (as you tend to in freeway traffic) then it would buck. At the time I didn't know there was a connection between that behaviour and what was causing the trans light.

By the time we got around to tuning the car with the wideband it was already on setting 3,6,2... it did take some extra fuel all the way through closed loop.
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