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Old 12-01-2005, 07:44 AM   #1
gleinz
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Default 30k service... what brand products do you use?

My car has just over 30k miles now, and I'm planning on doing the service (at least what I can) over the weekend. Just wondering what brand types you guys use for fluids, filters, etc and if it really makes a big difference. I was just planning on going to the local auto parts store to get all my parts, but maybe you can convince me otherwise.


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Old 12-01-2005, 09:27 AM   #2
Subie Gal
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me?

OEM oil, fuel, and air filters....

OEM spark plugs, coil packs...

fluids?
that's a huge opinion/debate here.
best to do research and try to get what you think would
be most applicable to you, your car, and what you do with it.

and nice job!
you will save loads by doing the work yourself

Jamie
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:09 AM   #3
gleinz
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Jamie, do you sell all that OEM stuff on subarugenuineparts.com?
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Old 12-01-2005, 01:14 PM   #4
imaaaron
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Plugs are recommended at 30k?
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Old 12-01-2005, 05:04 PM   #5
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The local parts store will often have a number of different brands/quality levels of filters. If you order at an online discount Subaru OEM parts place (like Jamie's), you won't end up paying too much more than you would at your local parts store, but you'll definitely get good (and usually better) stuff.

Fuel filter & oil filter quality can vary a lot, so I would go OEM. However, check out the current thread in the Warranty forum about the latest OEM oil filters. Apparently they had some quality problems -- if you're buying now, I would buy the black Tokyo "0100" OEM filters made in Japan (see the thread).

Air filters are less of an issue; I'm willing to spend an extra couple of dollars over 12k miles for the OEM.

Oil - go for "real" synthetic like Mobil 1. Especially with a turbo, you want maximum protection for the full range of conditions your oil will be exposed to.

MT fluid - majority seems to agree on conventional (not synthetic) in the correct weight.

Rear Diff fluid - also conventional.

Coolant - Personally, I go with Subaru coolant, but as long as you get a silica-free, phosphate-free coolant you should be OK. If you are going to change brands, I'd fully flush the old stuff out rather than just drain and refill.

Coolant additive - check with Subaru if your model needs the Genuine Subaru Coolant Additive (or whatever they call it); this, obviously, needs to be OEM.

Plugs - I'd go with OEM, but the main thing is to get a good-quality plug without any of the gimmicks (like "splitfire", etc).

Brake/clutch fluid - This can make a big difference. You want a fluid that will both absorb water as slowly as possible and that will still perform well even with some water in it (ie high "dry" AND "wet" boiling points). Valvoline Synpower DOT 3/4 rates high on both these measures, is pretty cheap, and is available almost everywhere. Don't forget to flush your whole brake and clutch systems every couple of years to get rid of the old fluid with water in it. If you really want a high-end fluid, go with ATE Super Blue or ATE Typ 200 (both the same fluid, first is blue and second is amber - alternate their use so you can easily spot when the flush is done by the new color coming out the bleed screw.). It'll cost you, though.

Power steering fluid - not much to worry about here.

Brake pads - Unless you are specifically looking for a certain characteristic, the OEM pads are a good mix of grip and low dusting without requiring warmup. They should also come with new metal brackets and anti-squeal compound (unlike many aftermarket pads).

High-temp brake grease - it's worth getting a tube of good synthetic stuff from your parts store. You don't want your calipers to have any problems sliding.

That's enough for now...

Last edited by armand1; 12-01-2005 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 12-01-2005, 05:17 PM   #6
lDeez lNutz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armand1
Oil - go for "real" synthetic like Mobil 1. Especially with a turbo, you want maximum protection for the full range of conditions your oil will be exposed to
oil is a highly debated topic, i'll put in my thoughts:

most of the wear inside the engine occurs when you first start the motor, it's crucial to get the lubrication to the right spots asap, synthetic is typically a much thicker oil. while synthetic may provide better protection in certain ways, motor oil always leaves a thin film over all the metal parts when you turn the motor off. also synthetic costs almost double the price of regular oil. unless you participate in some serious motorsports, i wouldn't bother putting in synthetic. it's like putting premium octane in an n/a beater imo.
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Old 12-01-2005, 05:26 PM   #7
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On MT fluid use Uncle's mix...

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Old 12-01-2005, 05:39 PM   #8
gleinz
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Thanks for the replies all... looks like I should do some more research and figure out what I'm gonna be doing with my car in the future
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Old 12-02-2005, 04:18 AM   #9
Unabomber
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Towards the end of my first post located at http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=533787 is my recommendations and what I use.
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Old 12-02-2005, 11:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gleinz
Jamie, do you sell all that OEM stuff on subarugenuineparts.com?

yes of course we do

at any time, you can use your OEM catalog to order any OEM part
see:
https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html

if you simply cannot find what you need,
pm or email me and I'll source you part numbers.

Happy Holidays!!
Jamie Thomas
[email]Jamie at chaplins.com

***************************
www.subiegal.com
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:25 AM   #11
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You've got that wrong. Synthetic is usually thinner than conventional. You can even get 0W-30 for winter duties.
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Old 12-05-2005, 11:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjensen641
You've got that wrong. Synthetic is usually thinner than conventional. You can even get 0W-30 for winter duties.
Although some 0w-30's will be thicker than others (Castrol Syntec 0w-30 is much thicker than M1 0w-30...and even thicker than either M1 5w-30 or M1 10w-30 at operating temp.) It isn't until extremely cold temps (less than say -10F) that the 0w-xx oils will be thinner than a 5w-xx or 10w-xx synthetic oil (generally speaking).
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Old 12-05-2005, 12:43 PM   #13
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For me it's OEM everything except for the Air filter (Amsoil EA Air Filter), transmission/rear diff fluid (Neo Synthetic HD 75w90), motor oil (Amsoil 5w30), brake fluid (ATE Super Blue), and wiper blades (PIAA super silicone).
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Old 12-06-2005, 07:23 AM   #14
gleinz
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Didn't realize wiper blades were part of the 30k maintenance
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Old 12-06-2005, 09:17 AM   #15
Psydotek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gleinz
Didn't realize wiper blades were part of the 30k maintenance
They're not, but it's not a bad idea to at least check them out.
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Old 12-07-2005, 08:51 AM   #16
RUrunning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psydotek
For me it's OEM everything except for the Air filter (Amsoil EA Air Filter), transmission/rear diff fluid (Neo Synthetic HD 75w90), motor oil (Amsoil 5w30), brake fluid (ATE Super Blue), and wiper blades (PIAA super silicone).
you spare no expense, do you?
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Old 12-07-2005, 09:35 AM   #17
Psydotek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RUrunning
you spare no expense, do you?
Nope. Mostly because it's the first car i've ever bought and i don't have a backup vehicle to get to work if something happens.
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