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Old 12-06-2005, 01:37 PM   #1
spazegun2213
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Default Autopower?

OK, so somthing i have been toying with is if my car is going to see almost as much track as road next year (well i hope at least) so I have been thinking about getting a bolt in roll bar (4pt cage for the rear seats) that i can remove for daily driving. I would like to know if anyone has an autopower bolt in anything and if they like it, and basic thoughts about their products.

Oh, and no i do not want a harness bar, I'm too tall for one.

Thanks
-Spaze
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Last edited by spazegun2213; 12-06-2005 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 12-06-2005, 02:46 PM   #2
RichardM
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If you need a cage, you don't want a bolt in one. IMHO.
Richard the rallycar driver
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Old 12-06-2005, 02:57 PM   #3
bjorn240
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Sure, those are awesome. Will go good with your harnesses.

- Christian
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:09 PM   #4
MattSTi
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The autopower race roll bar is awesome. And in fact, I have one for sale!
PM me if you are interested.

-Matt
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:33 PM   #5
spazegun2213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardM
If you need a cage, you don't want a bolt in one. IMHO.
Richard the rallycar driver

well the car will need to retain the rear seats so the cage will have to come out for daily driving..
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:56 PM   #6
DILLIGAF Racing
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trust me, your not going to want to take that cage in and out all the time
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:58 PM   #7
crystalhelix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DILLIGAF Racing
trust me, your not going to want to take that cage in and out all the time
Don't trust him.
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Old 12-06-2005, 04:03 PM   #8
MattSTi
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Yeah, I had just the roll bar in and thought I would take it in and out. Turns out to be too much of a hassle most of the time (although it only takes about 45 min to take out/put in) so I pretended my car was a two seater the whole summer.

-Matt
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Old 12-06-2005, 04:08 PM   #9
StealthWRX
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while it is a big pain in the butt to pull the cage out, i have had to remove it at least 4 or 5 times in order to get to certain things in the car and to have it painted etc..... if ti was bolted in id be SOL. i know i get a lot of crap for it being bolt in, but i can feel the increased stiffness, i feel safer, and it looks good.
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Old 12-06-2005, 06:26 PM   #10
Dave_Clark
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Forget Autopower, they're horrible. They fit terribly, very far away from the body and they mount to the weakest part of the car, the sheetmetal floor. The last time I saw one it was made out of ERW tubing, but maybe they are using DOM now. Because they are meant to be installed in a car without having to trim any of the interior they encroach quite a bit in the cockpit and make entry and exit difficult. I saw an Autopower cage that had collapsed from a very minor, slow rollover. The car climbed a bank and tipped over onto the roof going only a few mph. Trust me, I've built rollcages for a living for 15 years, get something real.
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Old 12-06-2005, 06:33 PM   #11
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$2000 for this
http://www.trackmonkeyracing.com/pic..._29_Cage_Done/
Why would you do a bolt in when you could have this

You won't want to take it out, you won't feel like crawling over it, and most importantly you won't want to roll your car with it IN the car

If you want a cage, have a track car. If you want a street car too, get a roll bar only and forget about the rear seat. Get a real shop to put it in.

-Tom
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Old 12-06-2005, 07:03 PM   #12
bjorn240
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I don't like to play an expert on TV, but can I ask what the heck you're really hoping to do with this car? Your plans thus far are to

1) install a harness with questionable regard for safety
2) install a totally worthless cage
3) NOT install a proper race seat

What's the goal here? This just doesn't seem to be a very well thought out plan for developing a track car, and seems a silly path for an autocross car, as well. Perhaps you'd be better off keeping your STi stock, and buying a prepared Miata or MkII Golf for a track car?

- Christian
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Old 12-06-2005, 07:49 PM   #13
spazegun2213
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Ahhhh, ok, so I was grossly mistaken, I am looking at the rool bar from autopower NOT their cages. My bad, and i do know the differences between the two, i was jut not thinking when i was typing.

For all those who are asking *** is this dude trying to do? I'm trying to have the best of both worlds... keeping my car 100% safe for the road and when it needs to be track/autoX preped. Because of the street part i will NOT replace the seats!! The Stockers will be fine for my initial, but later if i want and feel like it, i would like a way of mounting a 5pt harness without a bar. I'm a tall guy so bars are out. So whats left?? Well a roll bar, or attaching the 5pt to some of the rear seat mounts. I donno if you can attach a 5pt to the rear seat mounts so I'm looking into a roll bar.
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Old 12-06-2005, 08:06 PM   #14
Safe Drives
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Autopower Roll Bars and cage kits are made from DOM 1.75 x 0.120 tube. Autopower bolt in 6 point roll cage kits are legal for many SCCA ClubRaceing classes as well as meeting NHRA rules for cars running 11.49 or quiker.

The rear section kits like Mick's shown here below are also of the same DOM tube. Only the"Street" type roll bars are ERW when comeing from Autopower. Everything else is DOM.

Thanks Mick for the image.


For the guy that does track days or hill climb events this has got to be safer than a stock Impreza assuming it's been properly padded and the front occupants are strapped in with a proper race harnesses.

Dave Clark is right though. When properly installed, a weld in cage is safer than a bolt in one. DOM is safer than ERW.

HTH

Happy Holidays!

Charles

www.safedrives.com
877-739-1713
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Old 12-06-2005, 08:12 PM   #15
ChrisDP
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You're not going to want to remove it. I had an Autopower rollbar in my '95 Integra with all the options, ie chromoly material, harness bar, removable diagonal bar/center section. You do NOT want to remove the center section regularly because it's a total pain in the neck to get it lined back up again to reinstall the bolts. It's a pain in the neck to pull the main hoop+rear support mounts out too. It's a cumbersome large object to move around, you're going to want 2 people to install it to get it in place without smacking it into the rest of the car interior. Not kidding, I say this from installing a few of them...

If you do get a rollbar, please pad it well. You don't really want any rollbar near an unhelmeted head, but if you must, don't skimp on the padding.
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Old 12-06-2005, 08:25 PM   #16
Safe Drives
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisDP
EDIT:
If you do get a rollbar, please pad it well. You don't really want any rollbar near an unhelmeted head, but if you must, don't skimp on the padding.
Cheers to that!

Check out the SFI and FIA Rated Roll Cage Padding at http://www.safedrives.com/products.asp?cat=72.

For a street car go with the FIA pad. FIA pad is thicker and will absorb more energy in a impact with a un-helmeted head.

Best regards,

Charles
Safedrives.com
877-739-1713
cburen at safedrives.com
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Old 12-06-2005, 08:39 PM   #17
trhoppe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safe Drives
Cheers to that!

Check out the SFI and FIA Rated Roll Cage Padding at http://www.safedrives.com/products.asp?cat=72.

For a street car go with the FIA pad. FIA pad is thicker and will absorb more energy in a impact with a un-helmeted head.

Best regards,

Charles
Safedrives.com
877-739-1713
cburen at safedrives.com
Yup, do not get the cheap foam stuff, its worthless.

-Tom
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Old 12-06-2005, 11:22 PM   #18
Dave_Clark
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OK, for a 4 point rollbar in a part time track car I would give more leeway. Definitely better than nothing and there are not too many other options out there, especially if you are not into cutting up your interior. Good to hear they are using DOM tubing now, that didn't use to be the case but that was years ago that I last installed an Autopower cage. I never liked the foot plates with sharp corners bolting to the thin sheetmetal floor several inches away from the sill. In the case of one car the corner of the main hoop mounting plate overlapped right over a 2" diameter drainage hole in the floor! One of the mounting bolts went through the plug!

That harness bar in the picture looks a bit low, can you say spinal compression? Oh well, that's easily moved.
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:10 AM   #19
WillysPU
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I am with Spaze on this one, I do quite a few track days and my budget doesn't allow a full race vehicle and I need to keep the back seat open to take my kids to school but I would like some increased safety incase of roll overs.

If the roll bar could be installed/removed in about an hour that would probably work. Currently I change wheels and brake pads and remove the rear seat to adjust my konis so I am already wrenching before and after racing.

Any other options?
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:36 AM   #20
ButtDyno
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Spaze, wasn't your other option a harness bar?

That would functionally make the rear seats useless for passengers anyway, so a rollbar wouldn't be much worse, except for throwing boxes and stuff back there.

And if you need room for stuff in a pinch you can remove the passenger's seat.

edit: maybe I'm thinking of someone else

john
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Old 12-07-2005, 01:31 AM   #21
spazegun2213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno
Spaze, wasn't your other option a harness bar?

That would functionally make the rear seats useless for passengers anyway, so a rollbar wouldn't be much worse, except for throwing boxes and stuff back there.

And if you need room for stuff in a pinch you can remove the passenger's seat.

edit: maybe I'm thinking of someone else

john
John,
Nope, no harness bar for me, I'm too big for any production harness bar. If i was smaller, i would think about it.
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Old 12-07-2005, 01:42 AM   #22
greg donovan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spazegun2213
John,
Nope, no harness bar for me, I'm too big for any production harness bar. If i was smaller, i would think about it.
it may be worth it to have a custom one fabbed up for you.
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:38 AM   #23
WillysPU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safe Drives

So it looks like the front mounting points for the roll bar are on the floor?

By any chance does anyone have pics showing where the rear mounting points are?

I am just trying to figure out if the rear bars go through the fender wall or through the back of the rear seat.

Thanks!
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:08 PM   #24
ChrisDP
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I'm pretty sure they mount TO the fender well... so the backseat cushion squishes around them.

You're really not going to want to take the whole bar in and out. After you drill holes, you're going to want to put sealant around the backup plates to keep water from creeping up the mounting bolt onto your carpet. With the rollbar out, you now have holes from the outside to inside of your car. Another mess. Keep in mind the bar gets put under tension whenever the car is loaded, so it's going to be a bit difficult to get the mounting plate holes to line back up with those on the car, depending on the surface the car is parked on. It would probably be easiest on the Subaru to take the front seats out so you have room to crawl around in the car and fidget the bar into place.
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:37 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_Clark
EDIT:

That harness bar in the picture looks a bit low, can you say spinal compression? Oh well, that's easily moved.
Agreed on that! Yikes! It can be moved but it should be correct from the factory. I'll see what I can do about that by stirring the pot at Autopower.

The SFI says:
http://www.safedrives.com/prodimages...essinstall.pdf

Best regards,

Charles
Safedrives.com
877-739-1713
cburen at safedrives.com
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