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#1 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 53247
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Orange, California
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Hi,
I currently have a 85x4 ch amp, bridged to put out 85, 85, 170W RMS. The front is powering a set of components and the rear is bridged to power a subwoofer. I have a KnuKonceptz 4 gauge 4 ch amp install kit with an AGU 80A fuse. I will soon be installing another amplifier. It will be a 130x2 ch amp, bridged to power a subwoofer at 260W RMS. The 4 ch amp will continue to power the components with the front two channels, leaving the rear channels unused. Edit: Forgot to mention... I will be using an Stinger 4 gauge Tee Distribution block for the power wire. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with choosing your fuse, but the 4 ch amp has 4 20A fuses, and the 2 ch has 2 25A fuses. A couple people told me that because those 6 fuses add up to 130, I will need about a 130A fuse. I have also read things like this that go mostly based off of RMS power. http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/fusing.htm Although, in the last paragraph it says take the total RMS wattage, divide it by the battery's voltage, and that should be your fuse size. Then when it gives the exact formula at the bottom, it says to multiply the RMS wattage by 2, divide by battery's voltage, add 10%, and that should give you the fuse size. Would anyone be able to tell me how to figure out the approx. fuse size I would need, or if the 80A fuse will be enough? If I did have to get a bigger fuse, I could get this holder with a 120 or 150A fuse for $19 http://knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-20 Thanks
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Last edited by WRblueX_Guy; 12-22-2005 at 02:47 AM. |
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#2 |
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*** Banned ***
Member#: 82935
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region:
AKIC
Location: Anchorage
Vehicle:1972 Ford pinto Astro Turf |
Id recomend a 150 ANL fuse
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#3 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 53247
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Orange, California
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Thanks.
Anymore opinions? |
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#4 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 64374
Join Date: Jun 2004
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Baltimore, MD
Vehicle:07 WRX SWP *SOLD 03 2.5ts BRP long gone |
truthfully you could probably run the 80 amp and be fine. it could possibly blow at high volumes.
probably be best to go with a 120 ANL or above. |
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#5 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 38567
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: CT (for now)
Vehicle:2002 WRX Stage 4 Midnight Black |
Add up the fuses that are on the amps and then use an fuse bigger than that.
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#6 |
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Scooby Guru
Member#: 32636
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Dayton, OH
Vehicle:2004 Impreza STi Silver/Silver |
The fuses that are inline with the main power wire or in a power distro block are fusing against fires from the wires melting. You fuse based off the gauge of the wire. Go to www.BCAE1.com and I think it was topic 14 Fuses.
offset |
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#7 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 53247
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Orange, California
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Thanks guys.
offset, I was reading the fuse section the other day, but I'm not sure I quite understand it. It says "Any fuse rated at less than ~150 amps is sufficient to protect a 4g wire and the vehicle (if the 4g wire is longer than ~15 feet long, you may want to limit the fuse to ~125 amps)." Then for 4 guage wire, it says the recommended maximum fuse size is 125A. What would happen if I tried to use a 150A fuse with my 4 gauge wire? |
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#8 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 86497
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Durham, NC
Vehicle:04 STI Black |
I'd go with a 125 amp or a 150 amp anl. I don't think it will make too big of a difference. To be really accurate, you would need to find out the potential current draw of your amps using a conservative efficiency percentage. Then choose a wire whose rating accomodates this current. I think 4 ga is comfortable at about 125 amps. Then choose a fuse that is rated around the upper end of the wires current capacity. So when adding the new amp determine the cumulative current draw of both amps. Of course, the lower the fuse, the more sensitive it will be to blowing, which is a good thing because this main fuse is protecting the battery from a fire that could result from the wire overheating. For that reason, it should be as close as possible to the battery. If you think your amps will draw a max current that is rated higher than the power wire, you'd need to get larger wire. I doubt that's the case here though. I would also get a fused distrobution block to separate the power to the amps. AGU fuses should be fine here. Good Luck
Last edited by mikeyg; 12-22-2005 at 11:09 PM. |
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#9 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 88322
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Vehicle:2009 BMW 135i |
I would not run more than a 125amp fuse on 4 gauge wire. I'd even try not to run more than 100amp just for some margin. If you really are pulling 125amps, you should upgrade to 2ga or better.
Let's see... 85x2, other two channels doing nothing, and 260x1, right? So not even 500w total RMS! 80A is plenty. Don't calculate by adding up the fuses built into the amps. They're usually on the large side. Calculate for your whole system power. |
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#10 | |
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Scooby Guru
Member#: 32636
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Dayton, OH
Vehicle:2004 Impreza STi Silver/Silver |
Quote:
offset |
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#11 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 53936
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Exit 10
Vehicle:2008 Leg GT 2004 WRX -> Billy-fied |
Offset and Freon are right. As stated, the fuses on the amps themselves are for max power draw, not continuous. The amount of actual power that the amps are putting out are your best guide to how much juice you need:
85x2 + 260x1 = 430W assume 50% efficiency, so 430 / 0.5 = 860W draw from battery/alternator 860W / 14.4V = 59.7A being conducted in wire Therefore, 80A or 100A fuse is fine. Last edited by HolyMahwah; 12-23-2005 at 03:43 PM. |
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#12 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 53247
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Orange, California
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Awesome, thanks guys.
I think I'll stick with the 80A fuse I have for now, unless it blows. Does anyone know if they make/where I could buy a 100A AGU fuse? Or do they only make 100A ANL? If so, I would have to get a new fuse holder. |
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#13 | |
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Scooby Guru
Member#: 32636
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Dayton, OH
Vehicle:2004 Impreza STi Silver/Silver |
Quote:
offset |
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#14 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 86968
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Vehicle:02 WRX / 05 350Z '11 335d |
fuse's blow! get a circuit breaker. 140A, i have had a fosgate one for 3 yrs now, i think it popped once, all you do is re-set it.
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#15 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 85530
Join Date: Apr 2005
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Beaverton, OR
Vehicle:05 Saab 9-2x Areo Arctic Silver |
Quote:
Thats what i am using.. only use fuses internally in the amp and one right before the sub amp. -Jason |
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#16 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 94698
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Easton, PA
Vehicle:2005 30R Wagon CGM |
Actually the inline fuse should be at the maximum rated amperage of the wire. If your pulling more amps through the wire than the wire can handle it will melt the coating on the wire allowing it to short out, possibly causing a fire before the fuse even blows. 4 guage wire is more than enough for your setup. Just leave the current fuse in there. I was running my 1800w system through my 0 guage kit with an 80amp fuse for about two years with no problem.
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