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Old 12-30-2005, 09:52 PM   #1
iamrazor
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1990 T30 miata

Default Urgent! help needed Urgent!

People,
I am in the midst of doing wheel bearings and have hit a brick wall. Car is apart, parts are bought, and I can't get the old ones out! Who can lend me some info? Any subaru techs? Anyone else who's replaced them before? I have the shop manual so I know the procedure, but I can't get the old bearing to budge.
I've soaked it in PB Blaster. we've tried hitting it with a hammer. we even tried putting the wheel back on and letting the weight of the car try to break the bearing free.

can I use heat? will mapp gas work? special tool? come on brains of nasioc. show me what you got!
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:09 PM   #2
fibuz
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rut roh!

pics maybe?
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:12 PM   #3
fibuz
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are you trying to remove bolts or bearing unit or what?

looks like you may need a special tool as per one of the pdfs...
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:14 PM   #4
fibuz
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"10) Remove hub unit bearing.

If it is hard to remove, use STs.
ST1 926470000 AXLE SHAFT PULLER
ST2 927140000 PLATE"
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Old 12-30-2005, 10:20 PM   #5
fibuz
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this from over on scoobymods is kinda interesting too:

Quote:
Well I tackled the job of replacement front CV Axle Kit on my '01 Subaru Forester and it went pretty well. As noted in an earlier post I had a Boot fail and spew the grease so I decided to use a rebuilt CV Unit/Axle set. This comes fully assembled with two new boots (greased of course) and axle shaft. This unit is basically one piece from the perspective of installation.

I took my time, and really never had any surprises. But now I'll take a moment to document my experiences for those of you out there looking for more info and perspective from a relatively amateur mechanic like myself...

One lesson:
I found that it would be wise to make a mark on the inboard section (near the split pin area when it's aligned vertically) on the old CV unit before pulling it out. That is due to the fact that the split pin goes into a drilled hole in the CV unit, and the unit can only be aligned one way. The best way to describe it is since there are 27 (odd #) of splines on the shaft, the hole had to be drilled through the center of a spline on one side, and the other side it goes between two splines, so that means the hole will only be perfectly aligned one way.

Then after it's out you can examine which side of the hole was down (hole through center of spline, or hole through valley of two splines) and then orientate the new shaft the same way when you put the new one on. I found it easiest to work with a buddy during this point of the installation, and have my buddy lightly tap the shaft in as I was looking at the pin hole from underneath, making sure it was aligned (with the help of a light) when it lined up properly I drove the pin in.

As for special tools, I found out that the instructions I had was referring to separating the wheel hub, which for my job, was an unnecessary step. I also would note that replacing the Oil Seal/s in my case was not necessary, however I ended up replacing the exposed (inner) seal. For that I had to heat up the hub, so I chose to use my electric heat gun to aid in expanding the metal to take some pressure off the seal and get it removed.

Installing the seal for me actually was where I ran into the most trouble. I attempted to use a special tool (bearing and seal driver kit) free rental from my local Advanced Auto store. However the seal was a tight fit and it ended up driving in at an angle before I caught it and the last blow from the hammer buckled the seal.

I was fortunate to have a nice Subaru service department locally, that after I bought the replacement seal from their parts dept, agreed to have their tech (it wasn't a busy day) drive the seal in to the removed hub for me. He explained his technique was to press the seal in by hand as firmly and evenly as possible with as much force as he can muster (bare handed). That is enough to get it started a little. Then he takes a flat tool ( I think he used a socket extension) and lightly tap around the seal in a circular fashion until it was set. It works for him, but I guess I'd caution it may not work for everybody, just as the seal driver didn't work well for me in my case.

The other tools I used in the job were a large (heavy duty) 3 jaw puller to get the axle released from the wheel hub (available as a 'loaner tool'). Surprisingly this seemed like it took alot of pressure to get that released. And the last special tool I used was a kit from Auto Zone (another free 'loaner tool') that consisted of several styles of pullers for Pitman arms, ball joints, and the like. This was very worthwhile, since it takes alot of pressure to get the balljoint released.

I used the torque wrench to put everything back together and it went quite well. I have a Adobe Pdf document with the instructions I used, if anyone would like it. It is technically for the Impreza but the Forester is essentially built off the Impreza chassis as I understand it, and in this particular job never noticed any inaccuracies.

Happy WRX and Forester Owner, WRXFan007
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Old 12-31-2005, 03:01 AM   #6
Patrick Olsen
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When I did mine I had access to a press. I can't imagine you'll have any luck getting those out of there without one.

If you don't have a press, I know some guys have been able to take the entire knuckle/hub assembly to a machine shop (or the dealer) and have them press the old bearings out, press the new bearings in, and then you reinstall the whole knuckle/hub assembly yourself. It'll cost you a little $$, but it's a lot cheaper than having the dealer do the entire job.

Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
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Old 12-31-2005, 08:35 AM   #7
iamrazor
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I have the 4 bo
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Old 12-31-2005, 08:42 AM   #8
iamrazor
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wow, I didnt expect such a quick response so i just went to bed. I have the 4 bolts out and the bearing is like stuck onto the backing plate. I have a gear puller and it just pushes the axle back some. I'm afraid it'll just break if i keep applying pressure to it.
I even removed all the parking brake stuff so i have a cleaner shot at the bearing. I didn't take any pics, but i can when I go back in a little bit.

Pat,
I have a press, but the BE is very different from the earlier legacies (which are equal to the impreza). If I could get the bearing + hub out, I'm sure I could seperate them.
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:20 AM   #9
xcntrk75
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Slide hammer if you don't have a hub puller...

Otherwise, take the knuckle off and get it pressed out.

Good luck...
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:37 AM   #10
Charlie-III
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I replied in your other thread.
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Old 12-31-2005, 04:50 PM   #11
illegal2.2
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wow...take it to a shop....i did mine for one side for 55 bucks pressed in and out w/new hub! old hub busted :P
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Old 12-31-2005, 04:50 PM   #12
Tizzle
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Ya looks like I'll be doing this as well, and the same axle.
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Old 12-31-2005, 06:25 PM   #13
iamrazor
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whelp, got her back on the road!

took a few more licks with a bigger BFH to get the bearings out. very happy
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Old 12-31-2005, 06:49 PM   #14
fibuz
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BFH == big ****ing hammer?
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Old 12-31-2005, 09:23 PM   #15
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fibuz
BFH == big ****ing hammer?
Yup.

"Don't force it....get a bigger hammer!"
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Old 01-01-2006, 09:55 AM   #16
iamrazor
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the secret: BFH + cold chisel
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Old 01-01-2006, 10:08 AM   #17
KD7000
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Thumbs up

Any time you need to use a cold chisel to do automotive work, you know something is stuck.

Congrats on gettin it back on the road!
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Old 01-01-2006, 11:59 PM   #18
mranlet
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What was the total on $ spent? I've got a bad right rear I need to fix. Does anyone happen to know if there are different bearings for different models and years?

Glad to hear it got taken care of!
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Old 01-02-2006, 01:39 PM   #19
iamrazor
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yes, there are different bearings for different MY's. my 00-04 bearings were $117/ea plus a $4 stake nut. Total $ was $242 i think.
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:39 PM   #20
Hiroki Tada
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i dont think there's any automotive problem that a BFH cannot solve.

i may have to do my bearings soon as well. what prompted the replacement for you? getting squeaks or just that your BE is comin on 5 years?
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:43 PM   #21
iamrazor
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I had a nasty grinding / howling noise that increased with speed. It got so bad you could barely hear my exhaust!
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