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Old 01-04-2006, 04:53 PM   #1
Lantec
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Default Difficulty of Gutted Uppipe install?

How hard is it to install a gutted uppipe?

I imagine the small cramped spaces would be the hardest part. I have all the parts needed, I have the resistor, EGT replacement bolt and new gaskets too.

Would an amatuer be able to do it in an afternoon?
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Old 01-04-2006, 08:08 PM   #2
steve
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An amateur with patience can do it in a few hours.
I recommend hitting everything with Liquid Wrench an hour beforehand, and have some extensions and swivels ready to go. The O2 sensor can be tricky, but it's definately do-able.

You also have to lift the engine slightly.
Be sure to put the car securely on blocks then using the jack, lift the engine as little as you need to get the UP out. Tight spaces are the toughest part of this job. Small hands are definately beneficial.

Good luck.
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Old 01-04-2006, 08:18 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hypa
An amateur with patience can do it in a few hours.
I recommend hitting everything with Liquid Wrench an hour beforehand, and have some extensions and swivels ready to go. The O2 sensor can be tricky, but it's definately do-able.

You also have to lift the engine slightly.
Be sure to put the car securely on blocks then using the jack, lift the engine as little as you need to get the UP out. Tight spaces are the toughest part of this job. Small hands are definately beneficial.

Good luck.

Lift the engine a little?? As in, unscrew the engine mounts and lift it a little? or just jack up the car?
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Old 01-04-2006, 08:39 PM   #4
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You have to remove a single engine mount bolt on the pass side, and actually tilt the engine a bit. It's the only way to get the stocker out from the bottom.

Have you checked out scoobymods.com yet?

There should be some pics somewhere on this.
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Old 01-04-2006, 09:14 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hypa
You have to remove a single engine mount bolt on the pass side, and actually tilt the engine a bit. It's the only way to get the stocker out from the bottom.

Have you checked out scoobymods.com yet?

There should be some pics somewhere on this.

I looked on scoobymods and found a thread about the bolt size..

edit: I found a thread regarding the PDE uppipe install.. it looks... OMG HARD

I skipped the cutting the headshield to make room for the EGT bung since I don't need to do that here..

Last edited by Lantec; 01-04-2006 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 01-04-2006, 10:19 PM   #6
2turbo
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i did my uppipe today..but not by myself..haha
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:08 PM   #7
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it looks harder then it is... the most difficult part was probably just removing the 02 sensor (or the turbo heat sheild if it's on there), the 02 sensor socket I have is a little bulky so it was tricky getting it on properly, but after that its pretty much straight forward, just make sure you tighten the bolts on the up pipe in the recommended order- it'd suck to do all that work just to end up with a leak.
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2turbo
i did my uppipe today..but not by myself..haha

take it to a shop or??
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Old 01-04-2006, 11:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lantec
I skipped the cutting the headshield to make room for the EGT bung since I don't need to do that here..
Cutting the heatshield for the O2 sensor is simple and makes it a whole lot easier to put everything back together. In my case, I took my time and did it over the coarse of a Sat. afternoon/evening for my UP & DP install. Though I have worked on other cars (mostly my mustang) it was the first time I had ever taken the impreza appart, so there were a few things not directly related to the UP/DP that ate up a little time (such as getting the IC hooked up again, which is easy-peasy now). If you have never worked on your car before, and don't have much experience working on cars in general, I would start on a Friday night, just in case you need some extra time before you have to drive the car again.
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Old 01-05-2006, 01:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wylde Horses
Cutting the heatshield for the O2 sensor is simple and makes it a whole lot easier to put everything back together. In my case, I took my time and did it over the coarse of a Sat. afternoon/evening for my UP & DP install. Though I have worked on other cars (mostly my mustang) it was the first time I had ever taken the impreza appart, so there were a few things not directly related to the UP/DP that ate up a little time (such as getting the IC hooked up again, which is easy-peasy now). If you have never worked on your car before, and don't have much experience working on cars in general, I would start on a Friday night, just in case you need some extra time before you have to drive the car again.

I work weekends though
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Old 01-05-2006, 01:13 AM   #11
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spend the 50bux or whatever to have someone professional do it. They would have all the tools and know how to get it over with. Otherwise you'll be wasting all day wondering what the f..... is going on! at least if something goes wrong you can go back to the guy and bitch! ......... I did it the hard way... learn from my experience!
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Old 01-05-2006, 01:35 AM   #12
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I'd expect it to be 'a bit' more then 50 bucks for a professional install...?
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Old 01-05-2006, 01:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lantec
I work weekends though
Y'know this isn't a good sign..

I witnessed a customer calling into an oil change shop and asking if they do house calls. When the lube guy said no, the customer insisted that it was really urgent, so the lube dude asked why. The customer explained that they forgot the oil filter wrench so they had used a screw driver to puncture and twist the filter off.

Now this isn't such a bad trick, when you're in a hurry it's a great way to skip the hassle of a filter wrench and it's a pretty satisfying way to dispose of the old filter.

This customer however didn't get the right filter and they are stuck out in the middle of nowhere with no other vehicle...

Some lucky taxi driver made money off that guy.

The moral of the story is that if you are not really a problem solver you shouldn't be screwing with your only means of transportation.
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:01 AM   #14
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I had to use an air impact gun and long extension to get 2 of the uppipe flange to turbo flange bolts off. NO ammount of liquid wrench or breaker bars would budge it. Took me around 6 hours with beer breaks, general banter and discussion, including using bolt out on the old uppipe as the used helix one I bough did not have any studs.........also 2 trips to Lordco as the O2 socket they sold me was useless. I jacked the engine up 2 inches without removing any engine bolts to allow the uppipe to twist out the bottom. A worthwhile DIY project to get to know your scooby! Time to install my freshly DIY coated and ported headers
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:22 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pro2cer604
spend the 50bux or whatever to have someone professional do it. They would have all the tools and know how to get it over with. Otherwise you'll be wasting all day wondering what the f..... is going on! at least if something goes wrong you can go back to the guy and bitch! ......... I did it the hard way... learn from my experience!
While I agree that it can be a bargain to farm it out as opposed to spending waaaay too long on it yourself, there's still so much to be learned in the process that it's worthwhile.

Did you learn from your experience? If so, it was worthwhile for you too
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:42 AM   #16
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well, I know how to swap out my rear sway bar but that alone took me 2 hours

The car was lowered and I couldn't fit very well underneath... jacking up the car would put a lot of pressure on the bar and won't unscrew
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:49 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gethin
...also 2 trips to Lordco as the O2 socket they sold me was useless.
Am I the only guy that found it WAAAAY easier to just throw a box-end wrench on the O2 sensor rather then the bulky O2 socket?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gethin
Time to install my freshly DIY coated and ported headers
Hmm, tell me more about this - I was considering getting my stockers ported and ceramic coated at some point, but I don't know of any local places that do it. So if I could find someone local *hint,hint* who would be willing to do that to another set of headers *hint,hint* that's be pretty cool.
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02WHITEDUB
While I agree that it can be a bargain to farm it out as opposed to spending waaaay too long on it yourself, there's still so much to be learned in the process that it's worthwhile.

Did you learn from your experience? If so, it was worthwhile for you too

I learned that I'm a better stock broker than I am a mechanic!
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 420WRX
Y'know this isn't a good sign..
No doubt. Whenever I'm planning to work on a part of my car that I haven't touched before, I look at how long people say it should take, multiply that by 3 and go by that. For instance, my next project is to install SS brakelines. It should be a pretty easy job from what I read, but just in case, I'm going to wait until I have a whole day to tinker with it just in case I need it. Last thing i want is to be worrying about mybrakes when I have to head off to work.
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Old 01-05-2006, 02:55 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pro2cer604
I learned that I'm a better stock broker than I am a mechanic!
I believe I'm a better mechanic then accountant, but guess which one is currently paying my bills.
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Old 01-05-2006, 03:05 AM   #21
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Wylde,

I sandblasted the headers today with aluminum oxide, and will be coating them tomorrow with a 2000 degree thermal barrier, along with the stock turbo heatshield. They look awesome after gasket matching porting work especially after getting blasted. I'll take some pictures and post them to see what you think. Maybe i'll offer it as a service as an advanced exchange basis (i.e. you send me money, I send you the headers, you send the old ones back) if it turns out well. There is a guy down in the USA doing it for $200 but not on exchange basis, i'm sure I could beat that. I have also tapped an EGT probe hole ready for my pyrometer which could be an extra feature.

Installing SS lines is straight forward, just make sure you have a friend close by to help bleed them after. I also installed speedbleeders wich are cool so I can do it solo next time. Put some good 5.1 fuild in there too and nice pads!
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Old 01-05-2006, 03:12 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gethin
Wylde,

I sandblasted the headers today with aluminum oxide, and will be coating them tomorrow with a 2000 degree thermal barrier, along with the stock turbo heatshield. They look awesome after gasket matching porting work especially after getting blasted. I'll take some pictures and post them to see what you think. Maybe i'll offer it as a service as an advanced exchange basis (i.e. you send me money, I send you the headers, you send the old ones back) if it turns out well. There is a guy down in the USA doing it for $200 but not on exchange basis, i'm sure I could beat that. I have also tapped an EGT probe hole ready for my pyrometer which could be an extra feature.
That sounds really cool. I like the idea of the headers already being tapped for an EGT probe too. Could just slap a bolt in there until I actually get around to installing guages.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gethin
Installing SS lines is straight forward, just make sure you have a friend close by to help bleed them after. I also installed speedbleeders wich are cool so I can do it solo next time. Put some good 5.1 fuild in there too and nice pads!
Already have a vaccuum pump with all the necessary fittings, and a few bottles of DOT 4. I just have to find the time.
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Old 01-05-2006, 04:07 AM   #23
2turbo
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yes..took to teamwork
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Old 01-05-2006, 04:28 AM   #24
cannibal869
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gethin
Put some good 5.1 fuild in there too and nice pads!
Do you mean DOT 5? I thought that stuff was bad for street cars? (or solely used in race cars?) I've heard to always use DOT 4 brake fluid?
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Old 01-05-2006, 10:51 AM   #25
steve
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DOT 5 is silicone based and not for use in our cars.
DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 3 and DOT 4, and can be used in our cars.

the only problem with running DOT 5.1 is the additional cost, and the fact that it's wet boiling point isn't that far off regular brake fluid.
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