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Old 01-06-2006, 12:27 AM   #1
njskatchmo
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Default Tightening Belt Tensioner

My belts are insanely squeaky. I know how to get to the belt tensioners by removing the alternator shroud as I already tried it. How do I tighten the tensioner to stop teh squeak. Do I turn counter-clockwise or clockwise and when do i stop?
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Old 01-06-2006, 01:16 AM   #2
Uncle Scotty
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BE VERY careful!!!!!!!!overtightening them is BAD JUJU!!!! the adjuster for the ac belt where it attaches to the idler pulley will break in a heartbeat.







clockwise tightens

EDIT......posted the same damn page twice ....fixed now

Last edited by Uncle Scotty; 01-10-2006 at 02:19 AM. Reason: Wrong damn FSM page :(
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Old 01-06-2006, 07:17 AM   #3
Mulder
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Do you know that the belts are loose and slipping? They might be worn or there may be a problem with the pulleys.
If they are squeaking all the time, even when the car is idling and there is no load on the PS pump or alternator, they may not be slipping.
It's easy enough to check the belt tension by pressing on the belt with your finger and seeing how much it deflects. Also turn the belt over and look carefully at the underside for signs of glazing (it will be shiny), cracks, or damaged edges or grooves caused by damaged or misaligned pullies.
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Old 01-06-2006, 07:34 AM   #4
Slack
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It could also be your timing belt that is squeaking. When the hydrolic tensioner starts leaking fluid, it does start squeaking. I would check that out as well as your other belts and pulleys.

Mick
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Old 01-06-2006, 02:57 PM   #5
njskatchmo
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It's definately the pulley belts cause when i spray them with belt dressing it stops for a bit.
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Old 01-07-2006, 03:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulder
Do you know that the belts are loose and slipping? They might be worn or there may be a problem with the pulleys.
If they are squeaking all the time, even when the car is idling and there is no load on the PS pump or alternator, they may not be slipping.
It's easy enough to check the belt tension by pressing on the belt with your finger and seeing how much it deflects. Also turn the belt over and look carefully at the underside for signs of glazing (it will be shiny), cracks, or damaged edges or grooves caused by damaged or misaligned pullies.
The belt squeaks at idle.

The underside of the belt i guess looks a little shiny but i don't really know how its supposed to look. The belt doesn't really deflect much when you push on it. Does it seem like I need to replace my belts?
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Old 01-07-2006, 07:49 PM   #7
Hayes
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Make sure the belts are on straight and not one grove off.
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Old 01-07-2006, 10:01 PM   #8
ivwarrior
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I'd say replace the belts.
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Old 01-09-2006, 01:38 PM   #9
BeratE
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I also have to replace the belts on my car. In order to get the belts to the correct tension do I just use my torque wrench on the belt tesioner or is there a better way to determine what the belt tension is? Thanks
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Old 01-09-2006, 03:07 PM   #10
Hayes
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The owners manual gives you the deflection for new & used belts. I believe the numbers are ~3/16 in. deflection but, check your manual. I highly recommend OEM belts as others on this NG have had issues with some after market belts. I paid about $10-12 for each of the belts and no noise, no slipping and just the right belt length for the adjusters.
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Old 01-10-2006, 02:17 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeratE
I also have to replace the belts on my car. In order to get the belts to the correct tension do I just use my torque wrench on the belt tesioner or is there a better way to determine what the belt tension is? Thanks

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Old 08-21-2008, 06:42 AM   #12
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What does that mean?

When you push on the middle of the belt with 22lbs of force, it should be between 7-9mm and 7.5-8.5mm?
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Old 08-21-2008, 02:07 PM   #13
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anyone?
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Old 08-21-2008, 03:52 PM   #14
Kean
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....it describes the deflection of the belt (how far it moves from its normal posistion). With 22 #'s of applied force, the belt should move no more than the range you quoted.
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Old 04-30-2009, 07:58 PM   #15
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Default I have a very similiar issue...

I just got my Subaru, and when I test drove it, (Three times, day, night and highway driving), and up until the first 50-100 miles I heard no squeaking/squealing. I started hearing the squealing after I came to an abrupt stop following hard braking in a traffic jam on the highway, and let out the clutch, started to give it gas, and then it would squeal only when the clutch was disengaged. The squeal would get louder and louder as the rpms increased, and then just stop (after having broken the sound barrier!) then it would come back after the next few stop/starts. I questioned the previous owner, whom has gone over EVERY single possible issue that the car has had, and potential problems that I may have down the road. He has never heard the car squeal before. He did tell me that when they rebuilt the motor (just before they sold it) they vented the R-134A to the atmosphere so they could remove the motor from the car to work on it. I will be recharging the system, ASAP, but from what I read that is most likely NOT the issue. I have read through several threads/posts on a handful of subaru/legacy forums, and it seems that the belt tensioner is almost always the problem. I followed the instructions on the .pdf posted earlier in this thread, and used my best judgement for tightness of the two bolts (tech tight). I tried several different adjustment settings for the idler pulley (tightening and loosening), and it would start squealing as soon as I started the car. Then I left the idler pulley loose, and adjusted the pulley while the engine was running, (very carefully, as I know this could be dangerous, but I am pretty desperate to resolve this issue, it is ANNOYING!), it eventually stopped squealing ONLY at idle, but as soon as you accel, the noise is back. The noise will stop if you pull the steering wheel almost all the way to the left, and then return when you let off the steering wheel. The A/C belt was not replaced, and has VERY minor damage, I also tried putting comet on the pulley and the underside of the belts to break-up any glaze that may have developed, and the noise did not go away. I took it out for a drive, and the squealing will go away in the same manner described earlier, only to return at the next stop/start, and it is ear-piercing! I returned home, and tried to tighten the pulley one last time, and now it will not move, (Yes, I did loosen the nut on the actual idler pulley before I did this!), I believe that I broke it! I am going to order a new one, but should I also purchase belts (goodyear gatorbacks or gates, not Subaru dealer belts), put all the new parts on myself and drive to a dealer for them to adjust the tension? Is it really that touchy that you have to get the adjustment just right? I do not like spending money at car dealers, I despise it, in fact! Is letting a Subaru Technician do the adjustment the only true way to get rid of my problem? I can take a video of the sound, but I need to find the shooting muffs before I do this, the noise is just unbearably loud! Thanks ~J
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Old 04-30-2009, 09:11 PM   #16
strohausii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TaurusMcRae007 View Post
I just got my Subaru, and when I test drove it, (Three times, day, night and highway driving), and up until the first 50-100 miles I heard no squeaking/squealing. I started hearing the squealing after I came to an abrupt stop following hard braking in a traffic jam on the highway, and let out the clutch, started to give it gas, and then it would squeal only when the clutch was disengaged. The squeal would get louder and louder as the rpms increased, and then just stop (after having broken the sound barrier!) then it would come back after the next few stop/starts. I questioned the previous owner, whom has gone over EVERY single possible issue that the car has had, and potential problems that I may have down the road. He has never heard the car squeal before. He did tell me that when they rebuilt the motor (just before they sold it) they vented the R-134A to the atmosphere so they could remove the motor from the car to work on it. I will be recharging the system, ASAP, but from what I read that is most likely NOT the issue. I have read through several threads/posts on a handful of subaru/legacy forums, and it seems that the belt tensioner is almost always the problem. I followed the instructions on the .pdf posted earlier in this thread, and used my best judgement for tightness of the two bolts (tech tight). I tried several different adjustment settings for the idler pulley (tightening and loosening), and it would start squealing as soon as I started the car. Then I left the idler pulley loose, and adjusted the pulley while the engine was running, (very carefully, as I know this could be dangerous, but I am pretty desperate to resolve this issue, it is ANNOYING!), it eventually stopped squealing ONLY at idle, but as soon as you accel, the noise is back. The noise will stop if you pull the steering wheel almost all the way to the left, and then return when you let off the steering wheel. The A/C belt was not replaced, and has VERY minor damage, I also tried putting comet on the pulley and the underside of the belts to break-up any glaze that may have developed, and the noise did not go away. I took it out for a drive, and the squealing will go away in the same manner described earlier, only to return at the next stop/start, and it is ear-piercing! I returned home, and tried to tighten the pulley one last time, and now it will not move, (Yes, I did loosen the nut on the actual idler pulley before I did this!), I believe that I broke it! I am going to order a new one, but should I also purchase belts (goodyear gatorbacks or gates, not Subaru dealer belts), put all the new parts on myself and drive to a dealer for them to adjust the tension? Is it really that touchy that you have to get the adjustment just right? I do not like spending money at car dealers, I despise it, in fact! Is letting a Subaru Technician do the adjustment the only true way to get rid of my problem? I can take a video of the sound, but I need to find the shooting muffs before I do this, the noise is just unbearably loud! Thanks ~J
You needs some gaps in that paragraph!
You can drive w/o the a/c belt, to determine if it truely is the a/c idler. To be honest, belts are belts, I like the gatorbacks as they are very quiet and long lasting.
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Old 07-15-2010, 02:08 AM   #17
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mod please delete

Last edited by shemoves; 07-15-2010 at 02:33 AM.
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