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Old 01-22-2006, 11:50 AM   #101
kheff46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lachlan
There is an issue with the wipers--if you want them to work properly for RHD, you have to reverse where the motor is and where the wipers are anchored.
thanks! i didn't think about it really, but it won't be a problem!

"It costs twice as much to ship a front clip than it does to ship a complete engine with ecu, wiring harness, etc etc... Plus with the front clip you have to figure out what to do with that huge piece of junk you are left with after you gutted the clip for its parts. Not to mention the time it takes to get everything out of the clip."

-450 to ship is the same i paid to ship a complete 240sx from florida! i'll take it tho not too bad! and the scrap guys comes to my shop every tues. i get $$ for that "junk" guy! if he had a car specific junkyard i'd get $$ for the drivetrain too. but i'll keep the parts for myself and others to share
-i just bought a dc inverter welder too, so rivets are probably in the past!

-and there's a thread "i just spent 3 hours labeling my bulkhead"
-in 3 hours my drivetrain and susp. will be on the floor, and the other started on!
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Last edited by kheff46; 01-22-2006 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:26 PM   #102
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Well I paid $350 if I remember right to get my engine shipped from California to Milwaukee. The front clip was going to cost over 800 bucks.
Oh, and I would listen to Scooby Steve; he really knows what he is talking about
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:36 PM   #103
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Well, a lot of these people know what they're talking about since many are swappers The only way to really know is to do one way then the other and figure out which you can't stand to do more.
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:50 PM   #104
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Ive got a 98RS with a JDM STi Ver. 8 RA Spec C. S203
pics at
usera.imagecave.com/pumpsgotawd
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:51 PM   #105
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How do you like the way your dash meshes with your door cards? Is it a good match?

That's one short short shifter.

So how does the spec-C engine differ from the regular STi or the type RA? Is it just cams?

Last edited by Lachlan; 01-22-2006 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 01-22-2006, 01:59 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lachlan
Well, a lot of these people know what they're talking about since many are swappers The only way to really know is to do one way then the other and figure out which you can't stand to do more.

exactly! i hate to wire(done about 3-4 wire based swaps) they suck! mechanical is easier, and i'd like to try something different for once! is that sooo bad? never had RHD, so it's cool all the way around!


You are crazy if you think a RHD swap will take half the time. It will take twice the time. I cant wait to see what your pop rivet firewall will look like . In the time it takes you to cut all the new holes and seal the old one, remount all the acc. including the wipers, steering wheel, brake cylinder, clutch cylinder, replumb the brake system, remount all the relays, ecu, wire harness and general junk under the dash I could have done 2 LHD swaps completely rewiring the engine harness.

you come over and wire my car in a day, and i'll say your way is faster! but oh thats right i don't have to wire, i'm going RHD!!!!!! -keith
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:02 PM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lachlan
How do you like the way your dash meshes with your door cards? Is it a good match?

That's one short short shifter.

So how does the spec-C engine differ from the regular STi or the type RA? Is it just cams?
Yes i spent alot of time on my interior swap to perfect it. It came out perfect all around. And yes i hate TRUCK shifters... so its nice and little..
The Spec C has diff cams yes and the tuning is different.
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:12 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kheff46
you come over and wire my car in a day, and i'll say your way is faster! but oh thats right i don't have to wire, i'm going RHD!!!!!! -keith
Thats cool everyone has an opinion. I think a LHD swap is easier and faster, you dont. But do me a favor, when you start your swap document time spent at each stage and take many pics. This way other future swappers will have an educated idea of the mess they are getting into.

I did my swap almost 5 years ago, so you prolly havent read my posts. Wiring took me 4 hours start to finish(not including power windows,mirrors or locks) and the complete swap took one weekend, pulled the car in friday and drove it out sunday night. I had a 100% complete and uncut harness. All i did was flip the harness, left to right and extend roughly 14 wires. THAT IS ALL, my car has a 100% JDM harness with 14 splices. It cant get any easier then that

Last edited by Scoobie Steve; 01-22-2006 at 02:21 PM.
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:26 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PumpsGOTAWD
Yes i spent alot of time on my interior swap to perfect it. It came out perfect all around. And yes i hate TRUCK shifters... so its nice and little..
The Spec C has diff cams yes and the tuning is different.
Wow man, you have one HOT car. Say, what headlights are those and where did you get them?
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:31 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerlabs
Wow man, you have one HOT car. Say, what headlights are those and where did you get them?
Thanks, i made the headlights, they are audi s4 Projectors, custom fit into 99RS headlights w/ the black out mod. The car is actually up for sale. Someone is giving me 17800 for it from rs25.com im pretty excited since im in so much debt after starting up the shop. <- eastcoastswappers
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Old 01-22-2006, 03:16 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoobie Steve
Thats cool everyone has an opinion. I think a LHD swap is easier and faster, you dont. But do me a favor, when you start your swap document time spent at each stage and take many pics. This way other future swappers will have an educated idea of the mess they are getting into.

I did my swap almost 5 years ago, so you prolly havent read my posts. Wiring took me 4 hours start to finish(not including power windows,mirrors or locks) and the complete swap took one weekend, pulled the car in friday and drove it out sunday night. I had a 100% complete and uncut harness. All i did was flip the harness, left to right and extend roughly 14 wires. THAT IS ALL, my car has a 100% JDM harness with 14 splices. It cant get any easier then that
-i've done the ecu twist on my last 240sx swap(not clean but works fine). my car lacks power so i'd have to buy window motors etc. then wire 'em up. less weight more speed applies here.

-14 wires huh? that dosen't sound bad at all. which were the lucky 14 that needed lenghtened? and did you pull the dash/bar/wheel also? 4 hours isn't bad, but was that after a couple swaps, or was that your virgin attempt?

- i wouldn't mind staying LHD, but seemed way easier with almost zero wiring. i have faster ways than supermoose used also. using his guide as a rough outline and timeframe, i know i can do a weekend swap myself unassisted. i was gonna do a 1 day swap with 3-4 people at once to see how fast we could accomplish it. LHD seems just as easy now, except LHD clutch master cyl. availability and certain little things now. i'm looking into it now. but RHD seems so cool still!?!? -keith
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Old 01-22-2006, 05:02 PM   #112
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Going OT but....

The wires that were extended went down the front passenger side of the car and run the cooling fans and front marker lights. The fuel pump and sender wires needed to be extended too since they run down the drivers side after the flip....very easy.Yes the whole dash,bar, heater core needs to come out, the harness wires run behind it. be sure to mount them securely and away from moving parts ie clutch, brake pedal.

Last edited by Scoobie Steve; 01-22-2006 at 05:09 PM.
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Old 01-22-2006, 06:53 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PumpsGOTAWD
Thanks, i made the headlights, they are audi s4 Projectors, custom fit into 99RS headlights w/ the black out mod. The car is actually up for sale. Someone is giving me 17800 for it from rs25.com im pretty excited since im in so much debt after starting up the shop. <- eastcoastswappers

I thought 18k was a decent price for your car.
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Old 01-22-2006, 07:22 PM   #114
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I personally feel that in the more flexable GC chassis, i'd want to keep any and all structural integrity. i wouldnt cut anything out of anywhere.

when you go LHD, you can say "i did the wiring", that is an accomplishment and anyone that has done it knows that well.

however, RHD is kinda fun, id drive one, but to actually have one and own one for me, id want a real untouched RHD car. there are ways to get it here.

and tweakling, your engine code says its a V1 RA, the DW4 part, and the PJ is RA. thats some good power for it! it may have different timimng covers on it though, so who knows.

looks like some good swaps here.
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Old 01-22-2006, 07:58 PM   #115
powerlabs
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Hey, Hurley, you seem to know about reading engine codes...
Finelineimports "thinks" my engine code is "EJ207DW1KE". What does that mean?
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Old 01-22-2006, 07:59 PM   #116
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DW1KE came on WRX and WRX RA according to catherine and ken's
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Old 01-22-2006, 08:02 PM   #117
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I figured my car was a Type RA from the ECU:

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Old 01-22-2006, 08:12 PM   #118
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yup, looks to be the high up non STi wrx motor, and if the ECU is for an RA, then id say WRX RA.

but i never knew (didnt really pay attention i guess) any WRX other than an STi came with a 207, interesting. the rest are 205s for a V5. i bet thats the car that the WR team used for its homoligation, i dont think they used an STi model.

is the sticker still on the timing cover?
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Old 01-22-2006, 08:14 PM   #119
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I thought they used the 207 for WRXs for at least one year, then switched to 205s because the WRX's with vf22s were spanking stis.
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Old 01-22-2006, 09:15 PM   #120
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The sticker was scratched right where it matters... Almost like it was done on purpose
But the ECUTEK webpage lists that ECU as being "V5 Type RA", and the 8000RPM redline tells me that this is no ordinary WRX
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Old 01-22-2006, 09:36 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerlabs
The sticker was scratched right where it matters... Almost like it was done on purpose
But the ECUTEK webpage lists that ECU as being "V5 Type RA", and the 8000RPM redline tells me that this is no ordinary WRX

The 8k rpm redline only tells you that you have an ECU from "no ordinary WRX".
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:07 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hurley 2.5 WRS
and tweakling, your engine code says its a V1 RA, the DW4 part, and the PJ is RA. thats some good power for it! it may have different timimng covers on it though, so who knows.

looks like some good swaps here.
I was wondering about this since seeing this link a couple days ago:

http://www.rallispec.com/Transmission%20chart.htm

This says my tranny code (TY752VB3EA) is from a V1 RA. I bought my clip from JDM Importers (aka Fueled Performance in AZ), who told me it was a V2. I guess they were wrong. Time to change my profile.

-Rob
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:11 PM   #123
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What's the difference? They have the same ratios--anything else?


Want to trade?
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:35 PM   #124
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That Rallipec page shows my front diff being open (TY754VBAAA). Would I benefit from putting a lsd in it? Also does anyone know what I have for a rear end in a ver5 sti? Is it lsd?

Last edited by JeremyRS; 01-22-2006 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 01-23-2006, 01:08 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lachlan
I thought they used the 207 for WRXs for at least one year, then switched to 205s because the WRX's with vf22s were spanking stis.
that was the K motors. V3 had VF23, V4 had 24, V3-4 WRX had VF22.

all you had to do was turn up the boost and put intake/exhaust ect on and it would run an STi of the same year.

and yeah powerlabs, seems like its a WRX RA.

the V1 and 2 tranny should be the same, you have DCCD right?

and the dif in ratios between V1-2 STi RAs and 3-6 STi RAs taking into account the final drive ratios is: 1st is shorter for V1/2, 2nd and 3rd are shorter for V3+, 4th and 5th are shorter for V1-2.

you should have an LSD in the rear of that V5, its just a R160 differential. it probably has a viscous in there.

about the front LSD: you will understeer more, technically. initial turn in wont be as sharp, and you will always have at least a small amount more understeer than an open front diff. it will be more stable and you would get more traction at the limit under acceleration.

basically, it can depend on how you drive, and where you want to be better.

i guess the best way to say it is this: with a 50/50 center diff, you will always have understeer. its how AWD is. with an open front, it will be concentrated on the exit while accelerating. this is due to weight transfer to the rear. you lose some power to the inside front wheel because it has the least grip of all 4 wheels under acceleration. this in turn increases understeer. with a lsd front, you will understeer more at the entrance and in "midphase", but you will have less understeer on the exit. it will still be there though. remember, this is with a 50/50 center.

now, with a rear biased center diff (ie: 35/65), you will have a car that handles more like a RWD car, but not totally.
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