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Old 01-10-2006, 03:58 AM   #1
2-7offsuit
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Default Should I replace this oil pan? (pic)

I noticed this the other day. I'm pretty sure that it needs to be replaced, but I just wanted some more opinions. The motor is a jdm ej207. Is there a usdm one that will work? Thanks.

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Old 01-10-2006, 04:54 AM   #2
Hurley 2.5 WRS
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no question.

youll want to check your oil pickup as well, havent seen this on a subaru, but on a VW with a smashed pan, it cracked the pickup and caused low oil pressure leading to total failure of ALL bearings in the motor, and eventually a spun bearing. no oil light, no overwhelming sounds till one spun.
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Old 01-10-2006, 04:58 AM   #3
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i'd replace it.
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Old 01-10-2006, 06:11 AM   #4
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if you know the design of the pan, the oil pickup is in the central area. its dented in the front, but the rear middle seems just fine.

honestly, i think its far enough from the pickup position as i recall that it shouldnt matter IMO. if you are paranoid, then by all means swap it. its a hassle, but not a terrible hassle.

id swap on a Twinscroll oil pan just in case.......
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Old 01-10-2006, 09:55 AM   #5
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When I got my 207 the pan was pretty dented too. I was worried about it inhibiting the oil pickup so I pulled it off and tried to bang it out. It was hard to reshape because there are baffles inside the pan and it was a pain to get all the old rtv off without stripping all the paint. It looked like sh***t so I just slapped a new one on and it all was good.

It’s the same part from the usdm wrx. The pan is identical. It was 45$ new from 1stsubaruparts.com… so well worth it considering the value of the engine.
Much easier to change it now because once its in the car the xmember is in the way and you have to lift the engine.
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Old 01-10-2006, 07:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subenick
Much easier to change it now because once its in the car the xmember is in the way and you have to lift the engine.
The engine is in the car. So I'll have to lift the engine to get to it? It didn't look like that when I was under the car. OR maybe I don't know what the front crossmember is. I thought I did, but should you be able to see it in that pic? Maybe it's missing. The engine does vibrate a ton.
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Old 01-10-2006, 08:01 PM   #7
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you have to lift up the motor a little bit to get to the back bolts of the oil pan. or you could drop thte X member a little. one of the other, id probably lift.
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Old 01-10-2006, 11:02 PM   #8
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If you have universal sockets and a really long phillips screwdriver you don't have to touch the height of the engine. 1/4" tools are your friend.
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Old 01-11-2006, 12:50 PM   #9
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You might be able to get the bolts out with small tools...
But I don’t think youll be able to drop the pan straight out like it would be done if the xmember is not there. And trust me, there is no room to go forward and out unless you remove the headers, oil filter and water-cooled oil cooler… and come to think of it the oil pickup will snag on the oil pan baffles if you try that method.

You will most likely have to lift the engine a bit or it maybe support it and drop the xmember. Though, since all the steering and suspension bits are attached to the xmember, it will probably be more practical to lift the engine

Btw even after all the bolts were off of mine… that sucker was glued on good. I didn’t want to risk damaging the block surface with knives and I didn’t have a pan removing tool… so I tied the pan to the legs of the cherry picker and then hoisted the engine bit by bit while pocking at the rtv with an exacto until it split naturally.

Also, when reinstalling the pan, taking the heat shields of the headers makes it much easier. The pickup has a quirky way of fitting through the baffles.

Make sure you use a good lacquer thinner to remove the old rtv from the block. The oem stuff is a pain to remove.
The surface has to be impeccably clean before applying new rtv and the pan.
And getting the rtv off the oil pan is next to impossible without stripping the paint… so save yourself a lot of time and hassle and buy a new pan (as mentioned before only 45$ new)

Ill see if I can find some pics of mine

Good luck!
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Old 01-11-2006, 09:15 PM   #10
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You don't have to touch the crossmember either, there's enough room to remove all the bolts, remove the pan, install the pan (with threebond or permatex gray), and install all the bolts without doing anything extra. At the most you'll have to remove the jacking plate from the crossmember to get a good shot at the rear bolts. Also, there's nothing wrong with removing the paint from the oil pan. The paint isn't a sealant.
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Old 01-11-2006, 10:36 PM   #11
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i have nothing useful to offer except JESUS CHRIST what the hell did you/they hit????
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Old 01-12-2006, 08:49 AM   #12
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He probably didn’t hit anything. Mine came looking pretty similar to that. It happens during transport. They sit on the pans for like 4 months.

Yeah the paint is a sealant… a sealant for the metal from the atmosphere…
Rust is our worst natural enemy (well at least in qc haha)

I don’t see why you would want to use the same pan. The inside will be full of crap once youre done with it (rtv and paint etc etc and will be hard to clean because of the baffles… nothing like chuncks of RTV to clog the pickup) All im saying is spending the extra 45$ on a new pan for an engine that’s worth over 4000$ is a good investment. I wasted 3-4 hours trying to clean my pan up and reshape it before going online and finding out the oem ones were dirt cheap brand new. Save yourself the time and trouble!

Anyways, do it the easiest way for yourself. If you can get it off without moving anything then do it!

Let us know how it works out.
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:26 PM   #13
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oz prevention = lb cure
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:49 PM   #14
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and back to the whatnot, if you are going to order, order the part for a USDM sti with the twin-scroll oilpan. in addition to fitting the twinscroll setup, perhaps it has better baffles. it would be a reasonable assumption on the premis that if to improve, should be better. the currenty ej20 oilpan is a 17 year old design.....

AND the twinscroll oil pan fits normal turbo setup - which is whatthe usdm sti comes with.
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:02 PM   #15
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Ah, yes, the elements . I was thinking more of the paint not keeping the oil in. But yeah you're right about it being easier to replace the pan. I don't think he was planning on keeping the same pan though

The oil pan baffles have definately changed over the years, they even changed them in the same year depending on the cars. The whole oil pan has changed over the years, also. I too would recommend the new design of the oil pan. Which comes standard on EVERY 2006 USDM 4 cylinder subaru. The NA's have an entirely new design, very similar to the twinscroll, except more cats and no turbos . As swapstar said, newer is better.
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