Is there a "next best thing" to a new paint job?

[Siper2]

Hey guys.

I've been dying to get a new paint job on my '00 RS. If I can swing the payment this year, which will probably be around $2K, I'll likely have Jon Sever from MAIC handle the work.

However... if I'm *not* able to pay for it, I want to consider other options. My paint is not terrible. It's in dire need of a very thorough stripping/cleaning and a few layers of wax, but the only rust to my knowledge is a small bit on the edge of the trunk lip. I've put touch-up paint on it but it comes back, so next time I'll actually use primer too.
That ought to do it I think.

I do have lots and lots of stone chips and such on my hood, though. And other such swirls and mark. Short of new paint, is there a process that I can have my car undergo, by a professional, that will eliminate much of that stuff? I'm exploring my options.

Thanks-
=S2=

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[subygirl]

The best way to get the most out of the paint you have is to do a 4 step buffing process. Lightly wet sand the paint with a very fine grit paper (make sure to keep it thoroughly wet!) Buff with an electric buffer and a buffing compound (not sander! lol and with a wool bonnet) Polish with the buffer and a polishing compound(terry cloth bonnet), and wax by hand or with the buffer (new terry cloth bonnet). for recomended products... do a search. Everyone has their own opinion. I personally used turtle wax buffing comp, polishing comp, and zymiol wax. I saw this process done on a show on SPEED TV and the results were amazing. I did the process on my LEG (minus the wet sand...too much time) and I got very good results. To get all of the imperfections out and return it to like new condition, you might want to take the time to wet sand it. Do the touch ups to the rock chips first and allow half a day(?) to cure. If you have this professionally done, I have no idea of the cost (im usually a DIY person)... my guess is $200-300. Good luck!
--Kelly

[Siper2]

I'd pay that. Only because I'd never do it myself, except for once every 1-2 years maybe. I try to wax my car twice a year, though it's averaged only once, for the last couple.

I have no absolute preference on products, so long as it's hardshell carnauba concentrate wax. The rest, I'm open to suggestion when the time comes.

I did buy some Mother's pre-cleaner in the Fall, I just haven't used it yet. Seems like it'd do a good job at removing the greyish grime (tested it on a small spot), but it wouldn't be a 100% job.

=S2=

[holland_patrick]

Well wetsanding is extreme. But for the chiped area it will work but a good buffing and cleaning, claying, and a Sealent would work better.

above is a car i did this is what i used on it


and this is how it ened up.

[garface]

WOW!!!

[Siper2]

**WHISSSSTLE**

Wow. Nicely done!!!


I don't own a buffer though. And some people have the patience for that much detailing... I can handle some but I run out of steam. I seem to be more tolerant with interior work...

[Kean]

If you don't already have the equipment and products, then I would suggest the services of a professional detailer as was mentioned earlier. .....let them do all of the hard work.

If you lived near me, I would tell you to stop by. Machine polishing is addictive.

[Tkacik]

Wow, that before and after picture from above is really very impressive!

[animes2k]

Nice work, Patrick.

Wetsanding *IS* an extreme measure and not one to be done by an amateur. Even if done by a pro, it can end up severely shortening the life of the paint by removing too much clear coat and exposing the paint to even more UV rays, causing fading and possible clearcoat failure. At that point, a repaint is the only solution. Wetsanding a factory/OEM paint job is almost always a no-no because they tend to be much thinner than an aftermarket paint job.

For a full job like Patrick did, I'd expect a reputable pro to charge about $300-500. That's at least a full day's work. I expect your car's not in THAT bad of shape (well, it wouldn't be oxidized like that single stage paint, at least).

You could definitely DIY with a minimal investment, time and patience. Pick up a used Porter Cable 7424 on ebay ($60?), a set of polishes (2-3 levels), some pads and backing plates for the PC, clay bar, wax, etc. For under $200, if you were willing to spend a few days on it (learning curve and all that) I'm SURE you could bring it back.

Definitely www.autopia.org all the way.

A little before/after shot of my own... (before I even got the rotary)...



---------- wetsanding ----------
like i said, best reserved for an aftermarket paint job for specific problems (hard water spot etching, deep scratch repair, orange peel reduction), it can be scary, tedious and potentially harmful. A full car wetsand done right can take 60 hours or more and will require a buffer and polishes to finish out.

You can take a finish like this:


to this (primary sanding step):


to this:

[Siper2]

Wow, very nice indeed. Obviously it doesn't eliminate the chips, but... I wouldn't expect anything short of repaint to be even *able* to do that, I guess.

$3-500, yikes that's up there. $200 or so would probably be what I'd want to spend, honestly.... I mean I'd pay a bit more if needed, but... $500, yikes. Still only 1/4 the cost of new paint, but on the same plane, it's 1/4 the cost of new paint. Pretty big investment, maybe worth using that as a downpayment toward paint, then saving the rest...

I'd be able to sleep better "throwing away" (please don't take that the wrong way) a couple hundred toward proper maintenance, though, like a multi-stage clean/polish/wax job.

Now I guess I just have to find a good place. Or a person who can do it from the club...

=S2=

[Siper2]

[tangent]

The next decision is, after I buy a Ver.6 lip, do I get that painted to match the car, or keep it black, and mount it and my spats/aero guards that way...

I've been debating that for years though. I like both looks. Painted better, but... they're underbelly plastic pieces. One curb incident and it's off for a repaint. Maybe best left in black, and just paint the new Ver.6 grille when that comes along...

[/tangent]

[Kean]

If you go that route, check the regional forums on the autopia website. I'm sure there are some members there (or even here) who could recommend a reputable detailer in your area.

[animes2k]

unfortunately, that's about a 2hr drive from me... unless you plan on being in the Rockville, MD area for a couple of days... Definitely check Autopia for a detailer in your area.

When you say $2k for a paint job... do you know someone or something? Typically a GOOD repaint (same color, thereby saving from doing door jambs, seams, under hood and trunk, etc) is going to run about $4k. "Full" repaint = add a couple thousand. This is for a very good job - at least as good as factory (as close as you can come with a repaint). You can get it done for less, but don't expect it to be great.

BUT, being near Carlisle, I'd expect to find some decent body shops nearby

OH! and for the rust - see about getting some of that rust-converting primer... I haven't used it, but I believe you remove most of the loose rust that you can and apply the primer, which basically kills the rust to prevent it from returning.

For repairing rock chips... tedious, but it CAN be done:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...0#entry4696450

[Siper2]

Hey an S2000 link. I was a charter Mod on that site, actually named "S2000 Talk." Haven't been there forever though, had my Moderatorship revoked for lack of visitation. *shrug* That happened when I started hanging out here.

The ~$2k price quote is what a lot of MAIC folks stated as an approximation, as being done by Jon Sever. I think he works in VA but I'm not sure. Very busy man, gets a lot of business from the forums, but he supposedly does excellent work.

Yes I know a full repaint costs more, and that's not what I'd need. I'll check out Autopia!

=S2=

[e28fixer]

For chips you may want to check out http://www.langka.com/. I haven't used the product personally but plan to in the near future.

Scott

[digitalmethods]

Wetsand and buff what you can and repaint the front part with the chips in it. Make sure whoever paints the front can match old paint weel because the sun will change it slightly. Oh and for the rust you have. There is a rust inhibiter that you can paint on with an acid brush and it sits on the rust for about 10minutes or so and turns it into zinc oxide or something. My friend and I did it to his floor pans before welding in the new floor. Then you paint over the new and exposed metal. Paint it before it rusts again. Rust can only happen when air can get to it.

[Siper2]

Yeah I tried wet sanding it off, then put touch-up paint on, but it comes off quickly and re-rusts.

[digitalmethods]

Rust inhibitor....It works in like ten minutes. There will be no rust left. Do it then touch up with a ton of layers. Then put some touch up clear on and let that dry for a while. Wet sand then buff. It should even out. It won't be perfect but it will be close. Plus your rust won't come back because it's no longer there.

[Siper2]

Good plan.

[Honest Bob]

Depending on how bad it is you could try a clay bar. That should bring back some shine.

[digitalmethods]

Rust inhibitor
touch up
clear
wet sand
buff w/ compound
buff w/ glaze
hand glaze I usualy do this w/ Klasse AIO then Klasse SG (3X)
wax I usually use Ps2000 (3x)
my car looks like it's wet when I'm done in the spring.
Be ready to waste a weekend because of dry times and such.

[Siper2]

Finding a whole free weekend to do nothing but work on the car is the hard part, which, aside from lack of tools, is essentially why I'm looking for someone to do it for me, I guess.

I do have a clay bar though.

[digitalmethods]

search your local forum and see who does it in your area. A good job will cost you anywhere from 150-350 depending on time and quality. Also the materials aren't cheap. I spent almost 300 in materials last year just for one cleaning. I've fallen over the deep end though. I used to recon cars for a living so I get pretty OCD over the whole deal. Goodd luck. Oh and use a "poly clay bar" before you wetsand if needed. You wouldn't believe what a good clay bar will pull off. Get a good one though. Nothing sucks more than a cheap one that wants to stick and fall apart midway though use.

[Siper2]

The one I have is from Mothers, I think.

[Siper2]

Registered and posted on Autopia here.