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Old 01-15-2006, 06:00 PM   #1
Javier
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Default Ways to raise idle??

I have PE800's and a utec and trying to get it to idle correctly is a bit frustrating. I know that if I could raise the idle 100rpms or so it would probably smooth out and idle fine. What ways can I electronically raise the idle? I know getting a deltadash would do it but it's kinda pricey just for one feature. Are there any other ways that would be cheaper?
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Old 01-15-2006, 06:04 PM   #2
hondaeater69
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you could turn on the A/C
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Old 01-15-2006, 06:19 PM   #3
Javier
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Turning on the AC everytime the rpms drop to idle seems like a super idea. Of course, it's 25 degrees today! lol
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Old 01-15-2006, 06:47 PM   #4
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post in your local area for someone with DD......
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Old 01-15-2006, 06:59 PM   #5
Javier
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My understanding of the DD also is that everytime I disconnect my battery I'll need the DD again to re-raise the idle. I'm constantly fiddling with my stereo so that would bec ome annoying very quickly...

Any other options?
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Old 01-15-2006, 06:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javier
Turning on the AC everytime the rpms drop to idle seems like a super idea. Of course, it's 25 degrees today! lol

unplug the compressor, i do every winter (not for idle issues though )
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:42 PM   #7
Hawke
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http://www.tari.co.za/download/insta...rer.v3.0.6.exe

It works on the stock ECU. Does UTEC control idle RPM's? If so it wouldn't work for you. Also, it would only last until you disconnected your battery or reset the ECU.
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javier
My understanding of the DD also is that everytime I disconnect my battery I'll need the DD again to re-raise the idle. I'm constantly fiddling with my stereo so that would bec ome annoying very quickly...

Any other options?

......FIX what is causing the idle issue in the first place
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Old 01-15-2006, 08:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondaeater69
unplug the compressor, i do every winter (not for idle issues though )

Why? You WANT the A/C running when using the defrost, to help clear the windows faster. Not to mention keeping the oil in the system circulated to keep seals from drying out.....
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Old 01-15-2006, 08:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivwarrior
Why? You WANT the A/C running when using the defrost, to help clear the windows faster. Not to mention keeping the oil in the system circulated to keep seals from drying out.....

yes i know the reason the ac is connected to the defrost cycle. however, i have seen NO appreciable difference in defrosting capabilities with the AC connected vs unconnected. Do you think cars without AC don't have the ability to defrost their winshields ?

and i plug the compressor in every other month or so during the winter and give her a spin to keep the oils fresh.
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Old 01-15-2006, 11:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty
......FIX what is causing the idle issue in the first place
Yea, I agree. There's something wrong with your tune. You shouldn't have to raise the idle with 800cc injectors.
Get a scan tool so you can monitor the long term fuel trims ( I use a scanmaster) and adjust the injector constant and fuel maps so the fuel trims are between -7 and 7 (engine will usually run better with a negative number).
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Old 01-15-2006, 11:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty
......FIX what is causing the idle issue in the first place
The difference in dead time from the stock injectors to the pe800's IS the cause of the idle problem. It's a documented problem. The idle isn't horrible, but it does miss from time to time and every now and then the car dies when I clutch in. I've checked the fuel trims but getting them constant all the time is next to impossible with these injectors. I've had them for well over a year and have tried EVERYTHING with regards to tuning to get them to idle well. They just don't. They'll idle well for a while and then jump a bit and normalize. The only answer people have given me to fix the problem is to raise the idle a very small amount (like 100rpm).

Hawke, thanks for the link. I'll look into that a bit more...
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Old 01-15-2006, 11:57 PM   #13
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Use the link Hawke gave you. I've raised my idle 125 rpm with the 850s and its great. Its hard to get them to idle with such a low IDC...its quite a difference that +125 makes. You will need to reset the idle change whenever you unplug the battery as the change is in the volatile memory of the ECU.
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Old 01-16-2006, 01:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondaeater69
yes i know the reason the ac is connected to the defrost cycle. however, i have seen NO appreciable difference in defrosting capabilities with the AC connected vs unconnected. Do you think cars without AC don't have the ability to defrost their winshields ?
They do, but not as much of an ability. AC defrosts a windshield so much quicker than regular, humid air. Defrosting in my gf's Ford Escort is nearly imopssible since you can't use AC and defrost at the same time.
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:50 PM   #15
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try tweaking your fuel in the 0% column at around 500 - 1500 RPM.
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:10 PM   #16
Javier
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Yea, I did that already. I've been messing with them for over a year...
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Old 01-16-2006, 07:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ivwarrior
Why? You WANT the A/C running when using the defrost, to help clear the windows faster. Not to mention keeping the oil in the system circulated to keep seals from drying out.....
In the wintertime, the air is sufficiently cold that it cannot physically contain very much moisture.

100% humidity in cold air is a lot less actual moisture than 100% humidity in warm air.

Because of this, simply heating up the outside air will give you a relatively dry and warm inside air, perfect for clearing your windows. The only times you really need the A/C on with the defroster is when it's not very cold outside.
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